HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Bombay's blog
Posted by Bombay | Jun 30, 2012 @ 09:41 PM | 12,168 Views
Stuff you might find useful...
If interested, please make a post or send me a pm. Do not be afraid to ask "stupid" questions. There is alot of information here and you might not be familiar with some of the items or how they work. I am happy to answer any questions.

PRICES:
Regular LED Strips:........................................... .....$4 per meter
- Green, Blue, Red, Cool White, Warm White.....$4 per meter
- Pink.............................................. .....................$5 per meter

Waterproof LED Strips:..................$5 per meter
- Green, Blue, Red, Cool White, Warm White.....$5 per meter
- Pink.............................................. .....................$6 per meter

Mini Regular LED Strip Controllers:.......$5 each (out of stock)


RGB 3528 LED Strips:...................$4 per meter
RGB 5050 "300" LED Strips:..........$6 per meter (limited quantity)
RGB 5050 "300" LED Strips (black pcb)....$7 per meter (limited quantity)

RGB Mini LED Strip Controllers:...................................... $5 each (out of stock)
RGB 24-Key Wireless IR LED Strip Controllers:..............$5 each

RGB Extension Wire (4 strand):...............................75 cents per foot
RGB 4-pin Adapter w/ extension wire:......................$1.50 each
RGB Solderless 4-pin Adapter w/ extension wire:....$2.50 each

Receiver Controlled On/Off Switch (Turnigy)............$12...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Apr 21, 2012 @ 09:25 PM | 7,584 Views


Multiplex Twister Jet (1 min 29 sec)


Launch
...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Apr 06, 2012 @ 11:10 PM | 8,219 Views
Review

Main Resource Thread

Nitroplanes Video Review

Ain't she a beauty?




Spoilerons vs Flaperons for Landing
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=807120

Inside fuselage
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=83

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aircraft_registration
Poland SP,SN SP-AAA to SP-ZZZ
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SP-1000 to SP-3000, SP-8000 (gliders)
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SP-SAAA to SP-SZZZ (ultralights)
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SN-00AA (police and border guard)

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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...301029&page=23
Posted by Bombay | Mar 22, 2012 @ 02:44 PM | 7,772 Views
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Posted by Bombay | Mar 14, 2011 @ 12:23 PM | 10,707 Views
Against my better judgement, I started the build for this infamous plane.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=13848


I bought it in the ARF form from an old-timer at my field. This was at least 6 months ago. There was a float fly-in coming up, and it looked like a breeze to put together. He didn't tell me otherwise. Long story short, I soon found out by reading this thread that there were numerous issues. I shelved it...and ordered a few parts that I thought I would need.

It is raining here again (finally) in my part of the country, so I decided to take the down-time and go for it. I soon became discouraged again after re-visiting the Guanli Icon thread here on rcg. Nonetheless, I moved forward...

Potential Mods
Reconfigure battery tray
Seal decals and foam surfaces with Minwax Poly
Lighting
No wing floats
Waterproof gasket on cockpit/battery access
Deepen step
May move elevator servo from battery tray to direct install on horizontal stabilizer


Battery tray
The servo and battery tray is a joke in this plane. While it is a nice balsa tray, the battery slot wouldn't fit a 2200mah...or even a 1500mah...not even the 1300mah I use frequently. The slot is very, very narrow. I popped the battery tray portion out and put in a balsa-foam combo that would fit a 2200mah and larger...and would allow ample room to slide the battery forward or backward as needed. Not too difficult with the right tools (screw driver for prying, dremmel for cutting and sanding, 6mm depron, foam-safe contact cement, and some epoxy). Done!



to be continued...

Parts being used
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=2046


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=9745


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...?idProduct=662


http://rctimer.com/index.php?gOo=goo...5&productname=

Posted by Bombay | Jan 09, 2010 @ 09:05 AM | 15,989 Views
Details:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post19976283

Additional Information:
- On the 15, 30, and 45 amp connectors, the housing is the same size. The difference is the size wire that the contact accepts and the amp rating.

- The 15, 30, and 45 amp connectors can be plugged into one another. The difference in the connectors is the wire barrel size, not the contact tip or the housing. In other words, you could put the 45 amp connectors on a battery and still connect that battery to a 10 amp ESC that has the 15 amp connectors on it.

- In the past, I have used the 15, 30, and 45 amp connectors. Currently, I only use the 45 amp connectors. Why? There is really very little difference in weight between the 3 types and the 45 amp connectors are more versatile. Overall, it is cheaper just to keep one size on hand.

- I believe there is literature/testing out there that suggests that Anderson Power Poles have some electrical advantage (ie efficiency) over some other connectors. If it is out there, you can probably find it at the Anderson site. However, to me, for our applications, I am not going to say that one connector is superior to another. Choose the one that you like and leave the "Ford vs Chevy" arguments to someone else.


CRIMPERS
For the best crimp, and least trouble possible, it is best to use a crimper specifically designed for powerpoles. However, those are generally expensive ($40-$200). If you do use a crimper...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Jan 09, 2010 @ 08:31 AM | 10,939 Views
Coming soon...
I have to be one of the first to admit that she is a strange looking ship. I think her charm grows on you. Afterall, she is a trainer. When you compare her to other trainers, she starts looking better and better. Very unique.




Posted by Bombay | Jan 09, 2010 @ 08:31 AM | 13,685 Views



Posted by Bombay | Jan 09, 2010 @ 08:30 AM | 13,680 Views
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Posted by Bombay | Jan 09, 2010 @ 08:30 AM | 17,908 Views
For those of you who are interested in the Turnigy switch, but are confused when it comes to wiring it into your system, I hope this will help.

When I purchased the switch, although it comes with a nice diagram, I still did not quite understand how to wire it up. Luckily, my flying buddy is a whiz at electronics and helped me understand what was needed. To help me better understand how it would be wired into my own setup, I drew up a new diagram.


Basically, you hook the negative/black leads from the LED strips to the negative/black leads of the battery or ESC.

You do the same thing for the postive/red leads, only you run them through the switch. So, basically, the switch disconnects and reconnects the positive leads whenever you move your transmitter gear or aux toggle switch.

I use the CAT5 wire and servo connectors on all the connections except for the battery and ESC (here you will use Anderson PowerPoles or your favorite connector).

I wire the LED leads into the ESC so that I can switch out the battery easily without having to disconnect any of the other wires. All of the inline connectors allow you to remove any of the components if needed.

Let me know if you have any questions about the diagram.

Update: I added a second diagram with a slightly different wiring sequence for the LEDs. There are many different wiring combinations that can be used.

The 3rd diagram shows series wiring as a comparison. Note that with series wiring, the...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Jan 09, 2010 @ 08:28 AM | 13,927 Views
Here are a few pics from my 6mm build. Size: 28"x40"

Here is a link to some of the LED demonstrations.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...9#post14288629
Posted by Bombay | Jan 03, 2010 @ 07:16 PM | 16,998 Views
Here are a few I have collected. I recommend printing the first copy in draft mode to check the paper size setting and scaling as these files were taken from different sources. The pdf's contain more than one page.

Also, here is a "List of United States Air Force fighter squadrons" from wikipedia. It includes logos.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...hter_squadrons

Enjoy....Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Mar 17, 2009 @ 02:46 PM | 16,857 Views
In the Hangar...

> PZ Micro Cessna 210 #1
> PZ Micro Cessna 210 #2

> Hobbico FlyZone SkyFly #1 - Pushrod and hinge mods
> Hobbico FlyZone SkyFly #2 - Night Flyer with Glowire

> Parkzone Slo-V - NightFlight Module and Sonic Combat Module
Stock setup but running on the 8.4v battery instead of the 7.2v(tired & retired)

> Brushless Slo-V - Brushless setup with Glowire and flashers
Motor - BP 9YSS Outrunner Brushless Motor With Short Shaft at 840 kv.
Prop - GWS 12x6 SF
Servos - Hextronik HXT900 9gram
ESC - HW25A with programming card
Battery - Rhino 1250 2s 20C lipo
RX - AR6100E
Amps - ~10-11


> Cox Lazy Bee (Bionic Bee)
Motor: BP 8YSS Outrunner
Prop: APC 10x3.8 Slo Fly with large aluminum collet spinner
Battery: 3s 2150mah Rhino
Speed controller: Castle Creations T-Bird 36 (used it for the extra weight)
Servos: GWS Park LF (17grams)
Receiver: AR6100
Amps: ~12 (need to use throttle management)

..........Successful maiden flights.

> War Eagle
Motor: Suppo 2212-15 (930kv)
Prop: 9x4.7 SF Need to play around with different props.
Servos: Hitec HS-55
Battery: Thunderpower Prolite 3s 2100mah 15c
ESC: SS 20A (card programmable)

..........Successful maiden flights.

MS Composit "Blade Dancer"
My first 3D plane
Motor: 2830-09 850kv
Prop: APC 11 x 3.8SF: 27 oz thrust, 12.5 amps, pitch speed 23 mph
Servos: HXT900 9gram and Power HD 8g
Battery: 3s 1300mah 25c
Receiver: AR6100e
ESC: CC 25A (
...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Jan 19, 2009 @ 08:26 PM | 15,897 Views
The much awaited Corsair has arrived...and man the box is big.

Wow. 750+ people looked at a plain cardboard box. This bird must be very popular. This is the PNP model...no battery, transmitter, or receiver included.

Pre-flight Mods

I removed the clevises and thoroughly flexed the ailerons, elevator, and rudder. They come stiff and can put extra resistance on your servos.

I also removed the servo arms and made sure the control rods weren't binding on the fuselage. The control rods are coated with a rough stiffener with acts like sandpaper on the fuselage. I don't like this, but I don't plan to change them out at the moment.

I adjusted the clevis on the tail wheel to get it as straight as possible. I hate a plane that doesn't track straight.

Touched up the paint with Delta Ceramcoat "Blue Jay" and Delta Ceramcoat "Midnight Blue". Another color worth trying for the dark blue is Plaid FolkArt "Thunder Blue". I think Thunder Blue might actually be a better match, although none of the paints match perfectly.

I painted the control horns and linkages in the corresponding color of the fuselage and wing to camouflage them.

I painted the inside lips of the electronics compartment and hatch to eliminate the white foam seams.

I coated the bottom of the wing and bottom of the fuselage with Minwax Polycrylic Satin. I did this to help eliminate grass stains and to protect the paint from rubbing off.

I coated the top...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Nov 25, 2008 @ 08:44 PM | 18,833 Views
This is my experience in converting a ParkZone Slo-V to brushless. I'll call it my Slo-V Brushless (SVBL). Maybe you will get some ideas for your own conversion.

First off, I want to say thank you to NoFlyZone (Chuck). I've asked a few questions here and there and he has always come thru with patience...and good answers, too.

Wing and V-tail
When I purchased my Parkzone Slo-V, the person that I bought it from included a few extras. I had an extra wing and tail set, so I decided to paint it up in the Red Baron style. I used the stickers from a Slow Stick, used the scallop design on the trailing edges, and added a few touches of my own.

First, I put on a base coat of cheap craft acrylic paint in red. Next, I used Krylon H2O latex spray paint as a final coat. H2O works well on foam (doesn't eat it) and I also heard that latex spray paint is one of the lighter paints available. Next, I applied the decals and drew the lines and scallops with black markers. Lastly, I finished up the black areas with some more craft paint (semi-gloss this time).

Stick Fuselage and Landing Gear
The fuselage on the V is made of carbon fiber. They are strong and light, but can easily splinter. They are around $10 for the fuse and attached accessories. I also picked up a set of the stock control rods and landing struts. I decided to change up the wheels a bit, so I chose some 5-spoke foam wheels. I painted them red and added the Dubro micro wheel collars. I did have to...Continue Reading
Posted by Bombay | Nov 10, 2008 @ 09:48 PM | 16,797 Views
I noticed that the hinges on the elevator seem to offer different levels of resistance. When looking at the plane from the tail end, the far right side of the elevator seems to have more play in it then the left side. I think this is due to the weakening of the hinges and the off-center pull from the fishing line and rubber bands. I tried to adjust/strengthen the hinges before using clear packing tape, but it didn't seem to resolve the issue. I don't think this torquing of the elevator caused any problems in flight, but it seems to me that it could cause the plane to tilt left or right when elevator is applied.

I decided that I would replace the horizontal control surface while I have my plane apart for a pushrod mod. While at the LHS, I came across the Du-bro nylon hinges (Part 116). They look well built and seemed very light...just about the same size as the SkyFly hinges. Here we go...


First, I lined up a nylon hinge with the SF hinge and put a pencil mark where the hinge will start. I also pencil marked the width of the hinge on the elevator and flap...and on the bottom and top.


Next, I cut the SF hinges to remove the elevator flap. I then removed the SF hinge from the flap.


Next, I chose a knife with a wide, angled blade. This will allow me to cut straight down, and outward at the same time. A narrower blade would not yield the same results. I drew a line on the knife that is roughly the same depth as the hinge. I wanted to make sure my cut was deep...Continue Reading