Posted by ululi1970 |
May 18, 2014 @ 05:55 PM | 13,377 Views
I confess that I my style of flying is mostly bank it and yank it. I use the rudder on the ground and to do knife edges, but that is pretty much it.
Today I learned that it is really a good thing to learn to use the rudder in flight too! Suddenly, the aileron on my Cub started acting erratically, as is not responding or worse freezing in position. I suspect a power/signal issue on the Y connector.
On top of that, the senior pilot guru was busy teaching a new students, so I was on my own on the sticks, though several club members helped me verbally. Still not sure how , I managed to bring the Cub back with rudder and elevator.
Lesson learned: I really need to learn to fly with rudder.
I built a Sig Wonder from kit some time ago. It is a fun and inexpensive plane to build and fly. Here's a few things that I learned:
1) The wing should be beefed up, especially if you plan to fly it with an engine on the high end of the range. I fly mine with a Magnum .15. Add shear webbing, which adds negligible weight, and makes the wing much more resistant to flexing. Also, I sheeted the entire bottom part. Lastly, I'd suggest to beef up the blocks where the wing dowels attach to the wing. I used 1/16 balsa to laminate the blocks on both sides, with the grain running perpendicular to the grain of the block.
2) Fuselage: Beef up the wing mount, with some tri stock. The bottom of the fuse is a single piece of balsa, with the grain running fore-aft. There is a hardwood rail which is glued to the bottom. On a hard landing (which are not common, the plane generally glides well), the rail pushing on the bottom will cause it to crack along the grain. I see two possible solutions: either use 1/16 balsa to laminate the bottom with the grain running left-right, or, which is what I did, build an extra former using ply and place it an inch or so fore of the last former. That way, the rail is supported by three formers,
3) Stab: I was tempted to add a fillet to help attach the two vertical fins. I am glad I did not. Instead, I just followed the plan, using Titebond II. On a hard landing, the fin will pop away cleanly along the glued seam, without damaging other parts. Also, I made my stab detachable, using 4 4-40 screws to hold in place.
The CG is at 2-3/8" as per manual. I have not experimented much with it, but it flies well and I am not going to touch it. Hand launches are not a problem, though smaller engines may be more problematic.
This video shows a (harebrained) way to take off from a nitro truck.
Posted by ululi1970 |
Feb 12, 2014 @ 09:17 PM | 1,575 Views
Last summer, I got in a trade an old Cub, maker unknown but I suspect Great Planes. It came with floats. It was damaged in shipping, so I had to spend some time fixing things here and there. Finally, last Sunday was good to go.
Our Club president took a few pictures. What a blast taking off from water.
Currently, it is powered with a TT .46 spinning a 11x5 prop. The engine strains
a little, but eventually manages to get it airborne. Need to work on my landings now.