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I thought I would open up a section of my blog for eye candy.
I cut a whole bunch of highload 60 tail and wing cores and turns out a softer lighter foam is more suitable for textreme wings so Im not seeing uber light weight parts just yet but the highload 60 is much more dent resistant. My next foam cutting session will be when I up my game and start doing full carbon parts. Its just so darn nice to work with and even nicer to gaze upon.
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I cut a whole bunch of highload 60 tail and wing cores and turns out a softer lighter foam is more suitable for textreme wings so Im not seeing uber light weight parts just yet but the highload 60 is much more dent resistant. My next foam cutting session will be when I up my game and start doing full carbon parts. Its just so darn nice to work with and even nicer to gaze upon.
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The carbon tow commonly used is 1k tow or perhaps 3k tow to avoid and bumps in the skins surface. I got my hands on some super fine 6k tow and with a bit of work it can be mashed flat enough to be bump free. The tow must be swimming in resin when rolled. If you plan or rolling it after taking out the excess resin its nearly impossible.This tow may not look as neat as 1k tow but keep in mind in theory it is 6 times the amount. It has made for zero twist from torsional loads on a DLG wing which translates into higher launches ...Continue Reading
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Skins on wax paper. Dont want the sticky tow sticking to your table -
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Mist /spray the tow with 3M 77 spray adhesive and lay over the skins. Apply wax paper over the tow and roll it to contact the glass skins -
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cut around and remove disser tow rack -
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cut by laying your fabric template on top before removing the wax paper -
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I then flip the skins over so the tow is trapped under the glass for the layup -
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wet out real good -
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roll the tow flat -
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Just to try to simplify a bias fabric layout I decided to take a few pictures.
This goes out to my buddy Clifford11
The glass in these pictures is 1.6 oz and can be handled pretty easy so flipping it over isnt must of a problem. The very loose fabrics and fine weaves are often not handled this way. In the case of the lighter fabrics the wax paper transfer method is often used. The wax paper method is done by cutting out wax paper the same size as your mylars then misting them with 3M 77 spray adhesive.The adhesive sticks the wax paper down on the fabric allowing you to cut and handle the fabric without pulling or disturbing the weave of the fabric. The mylars are then wet out with epoxy , the fabric is laid into the resin and gently the wax paper is removed and your skins are ready for debunking excess epoxy NOTE think about this for a moment. IF wax paper is used in the case of this photo session the bottom skin would have the wax paper stuck to the wrong side of the glass [gets confusing EH? ] iT is, thats why I did this photo session and recommend using slightly heavier than ideal glass for your first few bagged wings [DLG wings often use lighter glass]. Being able to flip fabric over by hand and laying it on the mylars dry keeps things simple. I hope this helps
Phil Barnes also wrote a description along with the reasoning for fabric layups found here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=736...Continue Reading
This goes out to my buddy Clifford11
The glass in these pictures is 1.6 oz and can be handled pretty easy so flipping it over isnt must of a problem. The very loose fabrics and fine weaves are often not handled this way. In the case of the lighter fabrics the wax paper transfer method is often used. The wax paper method is done by cutting out wax paper the same size as your mylars then misting them with 3M 77 spray adhesive.The adhesive sticks the wax paper down on the fabric allowing you to cut and handle the fabric without pulling or disturbing the weave of the fabric. The mylars are then wet out with epoxy , the fabric is laid into the resin and gently the wax paper is removed and your skins are ready for debunking excess epoxy NOTE think about this for a moment. IF wax paper is used in the case of this photo session the bottom skin would have the wax paper stuck to the wrong side of the glass [gets confusing EH? ] iT is, thats why I did this photo session and recommend using slightly heavier than ideal glass for your first few bagged wings [DLG wings often use lighter glass]. Being able to flip fabric over by hand and laying it on the mylars dry keeps things simple. I hope this helps
Phil Barnes also wrote a description along with the reasoning for fabric layups found here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=736...Continue Reading
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Trace around or cut around your mylars -
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Im not concerned with maxing out the mileage of my glass for this demonstration but note two identical pieces -
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Just for a edge to go by so the weave of the fabric is the same direction I placed the root edge at a 45 to the warp direction of the fabric ["warp" runs the length of the roll , "fill" runs the width of the roll -
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note how the top skin mirrors the bottom skin. If the warp direction of the fabric shrinks it will shrink against the warp of the lower skin. Im using a balanced fabric here so warp has approx. the same threads per inch as the fill so its not as important
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kevlar tip patch is large but could be trimmed -
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.067 HM carbon wing rods. Theses rods are like steel compared to some of the cheap carbon rods I have bought. 4 rods are enough with these rods . -
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Description: 3/4 wide 1.7 o bias kevlar LE material [adhered to transfer tape]](https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/0/9/9/0/3/t5103042-255-thumb-003.jpg?d=1345690758 "Name: 003.jpg
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Description: 3/4 wide 1.7 o bias kevlar LE material [adhered to transfer tape]")
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3/4 wide 1.7 o bias kevlar LE material [adhered to transfer tape] -
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pre-cured uni carbon tail spar caps;
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Pay attention to panel lengths. -
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gently peel away pulling toward the TE -
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Description: To help get a more elliptical shape to the LE a small amount of foam can be sanded off and hand sanded to smooth the transition of the panels. The cores shown are a 4 panel design [edge]](https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/3/0/9/9/0/3/t5118988-102-thumb-6.jpg?d=1346288340 "Name: 6.jpg
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Description: To help get a more elliptical shape to the LE a small amount of foam can be sanded off and hand sanded to smooth the transition of the panels. The cores shown are a 4 panel design [edge]")
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To help get a more elliptical shape to the LE a small amount of foam can be sanded off and hand sanded to smooth the transition of the panels. The cores shown are a 4 panel design [edge] -
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before and after -
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Fine sponge sanding pads work well -
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first thing after bagging is to cut the hinge free and remove the waxed balsa strip from the hinge gap. This is a small how-to 
Phil Barnes also wrote a very hand explanation of the process prior to bagging
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=231...Continue Reading
Phil Barnes also wrote a very hand explanation of the process prior to bagging
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=231...Continue Reading
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score where you want the kevlar to fold -
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in this case there is a layer of glass over the kevlar that will leave a chalk like film until hitting the kevlar -
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be sure to go through the carbon tow -
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flip the wing over and cut through the glass and into the balsa strip in hinge gap -
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always peel tape from skin at a sharp angle -
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I usually stop around here and hand file some more from the kevlar in the fold. As I keep making scores I can feel it flex more and become freer -
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do what ya gotta do and get the balsa out -
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a nail file works nice to sand the excess glass back from the gap after removing the balsa
a small description and diagram of how I cut kevlar hinges for my glider control surfaces
note:Read the text file down below . The diagram corresponds with the text file.The text should be read first to get the most out of the diagram
note:Read the text file down below . The diagram corresponds with the text file.The text should be read first to get the most out of the diagram
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hardpoint should be inline with brass inserts or binder posts -
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supergee wing in picture shows front wing bolt location 1.750 inches back from LE of wing -
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This is called :flox . Its a cotton fibre mix that works very well for making hardpoints when mixed with epoxy. A good replacement for micro balloons for structural joints. Very hard to sand once cured.
