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Posted by MassiveOverkill | Yesterday @ 08:54 PM | 1,292 Views
This will go over building the Emax 250 Pro Nighthawk with the Massive Acro\32 board. It's applicable to the carbon glass V1 as well as the all carbon V2 versions. You can also use some of the pointers in this build log on other frames\builds.

As with any carbon frame you want to wash it thoroughly as carbon dust is very unpleasant and hazardous. You can go one step further and wet sand the edges so they aren't sharp.

Carbon fiber is conductive so you need to make sure no exposed connections can short against the frame. In addition, carbon fiber will block RF signals so place your FPV and radio receivers so that they clear the chassis.

Finally..........soldering should be the last thing you do if you're new to DIY. Mock up, measure, re-mock up, experiment with different configurations. Throughout this pictorial you may see the FCB mounted with pins installed but unsoldered......this is for illustration purposes. The first group of pictures will go over installation of chassis\PDB\FCB for location without anything soldered, and the 2nd group of pictures will go over soldering the parts. The pictorial may seem out of chronological order at times. When soldering, you want to solder connections to the PDB without it mounted to the nylon standoffs to avoid melting them.

Onto the pictorial

First thing is to install the bolts through the main plate and screw on the spacers. You want to leave them loose for now so that when you bolt on the bottom plate, the...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 14, 2014 @ 08:30 AM | 2,396 Views
This going to be a short but sweet one.

Dying Dyeing nylon parts is nothing new and there are plenty of YT vids out there on how to do this but some of you new to the RC hobby may not have heard of it before. An added benefit of boiling your nylon parts to dye them is that it makes them stronger\more flexible as Nylon can dry out.

The only drawback is that the nylon may swell a little bit, which could be good in some cases as the thread tapping job on some of these standoffs leaves them with loose clearances. In addition you don't want to use too much heat as you can warp the nylon. Finally be ready to clean up any overspill as the dye can do its job too well and dye your hands, white sink, clothes, etc.

To dye your Nylon parts you can use RIT, food coloring, or my cheapest solution: a $.29 pack of Kool Aid (I used sugar free as it should be less messy\sticky):

Green Apple is what I used but you can probably find flourescent green if you look hard enough and may have better success of finding whatever color you want as a food color dye.



I brought a pot of water up to boil, dumped the KoolAid in and then removed the pan from the burner and waited a minute for the water to cool down a little bit to prevent warping while stirring the mixture.

I then put the nylon parts into a strainer and the dunked the strainer into the pot agitating it every so often. I left the parts in there and let the batch cool naturally to room temperature and then pulled the strainer and rinsed the parts.

The results:



You can buy nylon standoffs in black and other places sell other various colors and those probably will come out looking deeper\richer in color. We'll probably sell them too but if you like the results you see in my attempt you can DIY on the cheap.
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Sep 03, 2014 @ 06:49 PM | 6,052 Views
Many of us have struggled trying to make our own anti-vibration mounts from foam, zip ties, surgical tubing, ear plugs, etc. A lot of these solutions are either bulky and require a lot of clearance above and\or below as well as take a lot of time to glue and engineer them. That's not to say they aren't good and this isn't meant to put down the ingenuity of those solutions.

The 'professional' mounts all use damping balls so why not use those? How do you mount them and what to? Well you have those old credit cards or spam advertising cards you get in the mail, why not put them to good use?

You'll need a standard 1/4" hand hole punch available at any office supply or crafts store and 2 credit cards. While you're there an 1/8" hole punch also comes in handy.

I suggest using some worn out cards you have laying around so you can experiment with making holes and testing. Once you've settled on pattern and determined if you need more or less dampening balls, you can punch your design into fresh plastic blanks. Here I'm using the mounting bracket off a Diatone frame:



Place your template over the card:



Punch your holes, don't worry if they're a mm or 2 off:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Aug 13, 2014 @ 12:20 PM | 6,020 Views
I haven't posted a blog in awhile so I thought I'd make a compilation of my Eye One Xtreme posts. Please also refer to Jamie's post, which is a collection of information on the EOX:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2187392

Also check out RC Loggers FAQ:

http://www.rclogger.com/forum/showth...ne-Xtreme-FAQs

Checking Your Motor\Boom alignment

This should be part of your daily checks, especially after a crash. As you can see the left boom is tweaked:



To make sure it's the left boom and not the right, compare the prop tips with the props in front. The left prop should be pointing down when compared to the front left red prop. You should also check that your prop is true by spinning it 180 degrees and you should see the same amount of offset compared to the other prop.

To bring it back into alignment, loosen all four boom screws and GENTLY twist the boom (you obviously just want to twist the boom in the holders and not bend the plastic frame) , in this case, clockwise, which will bring it back in alignment, and then re-tighten your screws.

Here is the same boom after tweaking. As you can see, it's still 1-2mm off but much better than before:



Thanks to LMahesa for the reminder. Also check your motor mount for being twisted at the clamp. By reclamping the motor mount so it clamps straight, you can get some additional straightness in the alignment.

Failsafe check using LemonRX or other PPM receiver

I want to...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Feb 02, 2014 @ 12:33 PM | 13,314 Views
Link to discussion thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2094184

So there's no confusion, these aren't pre-programmed flips but manually-induced.

I think this is a pretty significant find in the V2X2 series quads. You can perform manual flips without haven't to change modes or go to 100% to do the autoflip. It's much more satisfying and I've never done manual flips in acro mode on other quads that have this feature but I wonder if it's the same technique.

I don't know if any other 'toy' grade quad can do a manual flip without having to go to acro mode or use a button, but I'd like to hear of any that can.

The benefit of doing it with full accelerometers is that after the flip you have the safety net of full stabilization without having to do anything.

I've tried it on my V212 and Jefte was able to perform It on his V202, although they're harder to do. The V252 does them best.

This was my first real attempt so I concentrated on forward flips but you can do them in any direction and keep going FFF after doing the flip as shown in Steve O's video:

WLtoys V252 doing indoor manual flips and stable hover using modded Devo 7E radio (2 min 19 sec)

...Continue Reading
Sticky: The FrankenYaw
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Nov 03, 2013 @ 02:18 PM | 16,304 Views
FRE (Filipino Redneck Engineering) brings you another great WL Toys-based Frankenquad. This latest monster consists of a V252 Gumby board and upper frame mounted to a lightened V212 chasis. The result is a mini quad that's super accro when you want it to be with plenty of yaw rate and can go back to stable flight like it's bipolar.

Here we cut the booms off just past the LEDs



We secure to the frame with my favorite fastener of late, wire ties.



Indoor flight test:

This is the FrankenYaw: A V252 board on a V212 frame. Indoor test (3 min 30 sec)


Outdoor fight test:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Oct 30, 2013 @ 11:24 AM | 16,409 Views
Here's a quick tip to make your micro and mini LiPos slide into your battery bays easier. Simply smooth the folds over by running them against a smooth surface such as your table top. Fold the sides over first and then fold the ends over at the corners:

Left is folded over, right is stock:




Posted by MassiveOverkill | Oct 20, 2013 @ 12:27 PM | 26,777 Views
Theses are the specs of my V262 FPV setup:

Video transmitter: 5.8 Ghz 200 mW 58000 can run off of 3.3\5V
Video receiver: 5.8 Ghz RC 305
Flight Battery: Turnigy 950 mAh 25-50C LiPo

Both are fitted with cloverleaf antennas from Banggood

The VTX is powered by a standard 1S LiPo. I soldered a servo jumper on the VTX so I can transfer it and power it from my Walkera QR X350 and then made a servo-to-micro losi adapter for when I have it mounted on my V262. I took an H36 frame, trimmed it and mounted it upside down to the front of the V262 mainframe using wire ties. The VTX itself is Velcro secured to a cut piece of credit card that I screwed into the mainframe.

I've stripped the Mobius TV out cable of its outer jacket in order to save some weight. The Mobius is held on via wire ties using the holes in the Mobius chasis.

Pictures:



...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Aug 15, 2013 @ 04:22 PM | 22,112 Views
You'd think with a name like MassiveOverkill I would be anal about keeping my props balanced and with them being so cheap and getting scuffed up so quicky\easily you say to yourself "What's the point?". In addition you look at all the techniques and say to yourself "I don't have a prop balancer and it seems like a hassle to set up a CD and laser".

That was with micro quads. Playing more with mini's you don't crash them as much and balancing props the lazy man's way is actually easy to do.

The instructions I'm going to give you is for the RTF mini brushed quads such as the V929\949\959\212\222\262 series and not brushless hobby-grade ones where spinning up the props with the quad in your hand could be more dangerous.

All you need is some transparent tape.

To determine which props need balancing, simply hold your quad FIRMLY in your hand and point the boom with the prop you're checking down so when you apply throttle it spins up (almost exclusively) in response to the self leveling feature (this is important if you don't have a self-leveling quad you can still check for vibrations but not one by one).

Look at the gear guards for vibration. You should also be able to feel the vibrations transmitted to the mainframe as you hold it. Once you've noted which props vibrate badly tear off a 1/2" piece of tape and place it on the prop loosely near the tip on the top side of the blade. It doesn't matter which side you choose......you have a 50\50...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jul 25, 2013 @ 04:32 PM | 25,190 Views
Please reference my previous blog for frame lightening documentation:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1948594

The 808 and Mobius cameras will run fine off the Turnigy 600 mAh batteries. The micro quad batteries didn't have enough voltage stabilization, especially if you were doing video out, but the larger mini quads larger LiPos seem to have enough juice for at least 6 minutes worth of video.

I soldered on a battery lead in parallel to the main for powering the Mobius:



It runs underneath and extends to the front:



I butchered a V212 landing gear housing, keeping only the mounting bracket. you can see the stock frame\landing gear assembly on the left:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jul 01, 2013 @ 08:50 PM | 23,540 Views
OK here's my V212 FPV setup using an 808#16 camera's video out feature. I stripped the video out cable down so it only weighs 1.5 grams. I'm using a T58000 200mw VTX. I'm pretty happy with the setup but clover leaf antenna is definately in the future.

You can save considerable weight just from removing the landing gear skids as well as the sub-frame used to mount it. Removing those will shave 4.6 grams alone. In addition you can shave .8-1 gram from butchering the frame. I feel by cutting it in strategic places you can still maintain structural integrity:

UPDATE: I'm no longer using 3 LiPos. The 808 will run fine off the Turnigy 600, so now I only run a separate battery for the VTX.

The quad with 808 camera (A lens), VTX, cabling, and 2 808 LiPos weighs about 85 grams. I'm using a Turnigy Nanotech 600 35-70C LiPo for the main battery which weighs an additional 16 grams. For comparison, a fully-outfitted V959 with camera module weighs about 82 grams without LiPo.





...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jun 21, 2013 @ 10:32 AM | 25,814 Views
THIS IS MY MOST IMPORTANT AND EPIC BLOG TO DATE:

Helipad discovered how to recalibrate the accelerometers on the V222:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1911435

When James told me this my immediate reaction was: "You have to be sh***ing me!!! Can this be the solution to the V202\V212\V222 front left trimming issues? I immediately got my V202 and V212, tried it, and it freaking works!!!

Quote from Helipad's thread:

Gyro Initialization and Calibration

The beauty of having a 6-Axis gyro is that it doesn’t require you to set the V222 on a level ground to initialize. You could initialize it on an uneven plane, or even do what I do: initialize it upside down, so you could easily see what the on-board LED is doing! The 6-Axis Gyro couldn’t care less. It will stabilize itself. Amazing! But in the rare event that the gyro is confused, you could perform a calibration and reset it. Again you could do this part with the V222 completely upside down, so that you could see the on-board LED.
1.On the Tx, select rate to be either 80% or 100%
2.Pull BOTH control sticks to the LOWER-LEFT corner and hold them there until the on-board LED begins to flash.
3.Let go of the sticks, and the Gyro will be reset within 2 seconds, and the LED will stop flashing.

Thank you Helipad for finding this and to James for bringing it to my attention!!!!
Posted by MassiveOverkill | May 29, 2013 @ 05:56 PM | 22,785 Views
Pretty easy and effective way to make your mini quad brighter at night. Simply cut some clear or opaque straws and mount them between the canopy and the top of the gear housing. The gear housing even has a plastic channel to help hold the straw. Mount your favorite color LED and secure with hot glue. The light saber illuminates the bottom side of the propellor making night time orientation easy to tell at distance.

Using clear or opaque straws as crude fiber optics isn't new and this idea isn't original, although it may be as far as using it to light up as much of the area that the spinning props on a quad create.

Here's the video of it in action:

V212 Light Saber Mod (1 min 58 sec)


Closeups of the mod:





UPDATE:

Here's the latest incarnation. This is easier to implement and puts the LEDs further out. No need to hack up the canopy either:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | May 10, 2013 @ 11:34 AM | 22,785 Views
Here are instructions for taking a V202 receiver board and mounting it onto a V959 frame. You can probably do the same for other WL Toys mini quads.

First thing you need is an H36 frame and remove the bottom battery tray. You'll also need to cut the outermost bottom support tabs to clear the V959's mounting posts. Once this is done you can super glue the frame in place on top of the V959 frame:

Left is stock, right is tabs and battery tray removed.



Next thing you need to do is notch the V959 frame boom holders on both left boom holders for additional wire clearance. Simply use a hobby knife to cut away the material:



Here you can see the wire getting more clearance because of the notch:
...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Mar 07, 2013 @ 09:09 AM | 25,142 Views
It's obvious that not all batteries are created equal, but sometimes their dimensions, most importantly length can cause problems as the battery won't make proper contact because it's too short. I've noticed the problem more prevalent on rechargeable batteries.

Stretching the springs doesn't always work because the battery stop on the transmitter prevents the postive (+) terminal from reaching the flat plate. To fix this you need to pry the plate out a bit.

Here's a stock battery plate:



Simply insert a screwdriver or better yet I'm using some pointy scissors:



Do the twist:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Mar 02, 2013 @ 07:15 PM | 26,885 Views
I figure I'd go into more detail on getting those Micro Losi \ Walkera battery connectors to work better as many still have problems with them.

The first thing to address is the pin angles on charger\RX connector. Typically the pins are pointing the wrong way as pictured below. The pins are pointing downwards which will make it hard to insert the connectors as well as cause bad electrical contact if they're that way on your charger:



You want to get a small flat head screwdriver and slightly pry them upwards. You'll notice the connectors will go in easier and make better contact. The first time you insert the battery, it may go in rough, but the the angle of the pins will self-adjust and subsequent insertions will go much more smoothly:



We've been offering a service on our Lipos to remove the little nubs on the batteries in order to make it easier to take the connectors apart. You can see the nub in the picture below:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Feb 18, 2013 @ 09:11 PM | 26,317 Views
With our flagship V202 selling so well that we're temporarily out of stock, I thought I'd blogify a post I made about beefing up your Mini Pet's weak spot, the battery tray. Also shown is fitting the V202's canopy to the Mini Pet:

If you don't have access to carbon rod, just find a toothpick, cut to size and super glue it in place:



Both sides done:



Sharpie treatment:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Feb 06, 2013 @ 12:42 PM | 27,008 Views
Here's a quick and easy way to fix those gimpy legs on your V939\V202 using a heat gun set on low, some aluminum foil, a paint stick to apply pressure, and some super glue:

Here you can see that in this example, the motor cradle is molded wrong, putting the motor and prop at an angle (this is an extreme case below)::



First step to fix this is to make an aluminum foil heat barrier to protect the rest of the plastic motor cradle:



Then add another layer over the motor area as the top of the motor holder is thin and needs extra heat protection:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jan 31, 2013 @ 08:10 AM | 28,290 Views
I'm sick of searching for this post so I decided to add it to blogify it:

If you've come to this post via MassiveRC Store please see the following follow up post: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=256

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Could you educate me what such a Prop-Motor protection look like or how it functions?


The left is the H36, where the motor mount has a plastic cylinder rising out of the mount to limit the prop from impacting the motor.

The middle is the V202\V939 prop that has a cylinder built into and below the prop center that take up the slack between the prop bottom and motor casing

The last is the Mini Pets motor mount that also has a plastic cylinder rising out of the mount to limit the prop from impacting the motor.

Here you can see the difference between the protected motor on the left and the unprotected one on the right on the Hubsan. This picture also shows my effort to reduce vibration by putting hot glue on each side of the motor where it contacts the Hubsan motor mount:

...Continue Reading
Posted by MassiveOverkill | Jan 23, 2013 @ 12:16 PM | 28,108 Views
We've had people order other model canopies for their V202 that won't fit and we've had to give them the bad news and ask them to select a WL Toys canopy instead. We'll with a little modification you can make your V202 accept a wider range of canopies.

Here's the problem: The stock location and height of the motor plugs on the right (starboard) side of the reciever board are too high and mounted too far to the edge, preventing other canopies from clearing:



What you can do is remove the two plastic retainers with some pliers as well as trim the plastic tabs on the female plug with a nail clipper. You'll see in the picture below that I also remove the plastic pull tab on the 3rd motor plug, which is the first one on the back row.

Note that it will now be possible to plug your motors in backwards if you don't plug them in right, but it won't hurt anything, you'll just have to put them back on right if you goof up:



You can see how the plugs now sit lower on the board providing extra clearance with the addition of cutting the pull tabs on one side.

Here you can see the canopy retainer flaps full engaging:

...Continue Reading