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-S-'s blog
Posted by -S- | Nov 27, 2010 @ 06:10 PM | 5,496 Views
Well today I passed along the SuperCub to a friend of mine.

I hope that he will learn and grow with it like I did.

I did fly it twice today which was the first time in a long time.

I have moved to Notro planes, I have 6 palnes ranging from 55 inch wing up to 81 inch and I'll be starting to built my first plane from a Kit a BTE Venture.

The Venture is designed, cut, packed and shipped. by Bruce Tharp and as I understand it I got the last one he had waiting in this series but I'm sure there will be more.

He is responsilbe for many very popular kits including the Four Start series, The Skywalker and many more.

Please stop and take a look at Bruce's offerings at the link below and please try to support our home grown vendors in the U.S.A. as much as possible with out us there would be no them!

http://www.btemodels.com

Thank you to all the folks that have stopped by, and a big thank you to all the folks in the SuperCub groups and stuck with me and allowed me to grow in the hobby.

-S-
Posted by -S- | Jul 18, 2010 @ 09:39 PM | 5,994 Views
All,

Well after converting to the Aurora 9 this week and getting the plane stable and resetting the CG to 2.25 inches (2.5 inch was bad for me)

I had an enjoyable 10 Battery pack weekend.

It was driving me nuts not knowing how long I could safely fly so that was tonight mission.

Here is the data, Hopefully it will help someone.

Plane Specs.
Hobby Zone Super Cub built from scratch.
Total weight 27 OZ
Center of Gravity (COG) set at 2.25 inches from Leading edge measured 5 inches in from the Fuse.
Hitec Optima 7 RX
Motor is a 2836-11
Exceed 30A ESC w/UBEC
4 - 9G Servos EXI Brand
Ailerons using 2 servos, separate channels on the RX (no "y" cable)
10x5 Prop Trimmed and balanced to 9.5x5

I have one no name 1800Mah 20C battery time to LVC - 15.5 Min.

I have 4 BlueLipo 2200 mAH 20C Batteries. With the 2200's I never made it to LVC

I flew for 18 Min. and figured it was about dead, mainly cruising at 1/2 throttle with some surges to full throttle not going much below 1/2

After the 18 min. I set it on the flight bench and left it a 1/2 throttle till it got to 21 Min. and stopped it before it hit Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) There is no way I'd fly for 21 min.

I am quite impressed with the plane overall it exceeds my expectations all the way around.

Anyway, in case somebody was sitting on the edge of their seat waiting for the update here it is!

-S-
Posted by -S- | Jul 13, 2010 @ 07:01 PM | 6,115 Views
Well I learend a good lesson.

Long story short, I found that when I created the initial wing listed below, I applied too much heat at one point (or several) and warped the wing.

I tried to straighten it out, but it was not happening.

I got another one, followed a different method of doing the Ailerons and did NOT cover it and it is a beautiful thing.

Here is the info I followed this time and i'm much happier with the results http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...34#post9845512

Fly's wonderfully, and extreamly fast, I somehow I forogt to train the ESC as to the limits of the throttle so I was only working at about 60% throttle last week for it's re-maiden flight, I have since fixed that and we'll see if it rips the wings off this weekend!

Be careful with covering! by not covering it, and using Hinge tape instaed of plastic hinges I saved a little over 4 OZ as well! that's a big difference.

Good luck to you all! -S-
Posted by -S- | Jul 02, 2010 @ 06:37 PM | 5,976 Views
07/01/2010

I flew the SC a few weeks ago and had to trim the Ailerons a lot to fly straight. After getting it trimmed out they were about 50% elevated one down and one up so I did something wrong.

After looking at it the wing was twisted I'm assuming from ironing on the covering so I decided to flatten it and put some CF rod in it.

I bought Midwest Products number 5722 which is 24 inches long.

I found that 3mm CF rod fits perfectly inside of that rod and I had some 36 inch pieces of that so I have a rod inside of a tube, and I think that will be more than enough reinforcement.

First I put the wing top side down, and placed heavy weights on it to flatten it out for 3 days.

Then after that I stuck some cardboard under the wing tips to stretch it the opposite direction of the Dihedral.

after another 24 hours I put some square steel tub under the bottom of the wing so the servo arms would not hit the bench and put more weights on it until it was flat.

I measure the CG and it is at 2.25 inches, I carefully drew a straight line and set a metal yardstick up for guidance and used a soldering iron to melt away a channel into the foam.

I made the depth slightly more than the thickness of the CF rod, laid down a bed of epoxy , put the rod in, and put a light coat on top of the rod and let it set till hardened.

Then I ironed on some EconoKote to cover the groove and tonight I may pull the ailerons out and remove the hinges and use Hinge tape, not sure on that one yet. They are a tad bit off I may try to straighten them out.

Worst case, I have another wing, I'll try to set up from scratch again.

Anyway that is the update, hope it helps someone! Thanks -S-

Posted by -S- | May 09, 2010 @ 10:39 AM | 7,152 Views
05/09/2010

This week I finished up some small things, still waiting for weather to be good when I am able to fly.

I added some rubber 2.5 inch wheels to the front, painted the hubs turned out OK all I have laying around was some metaillic black paint it works.
on the tail I put a 1.23 inch Du-Bro wheel, paited as well. Part numbers are on page 1 if interisted. The front tires were a big big on the spindle hole, so I took 3 yayers of shrink tube applying them one at a time to get a good thickness and screwed the wheel nut back on - Done deal

I tried to paint the cowl and failed misreably :-) but I learned how to do it next time! so it dones not look great but it will work.

When I put the wing back on the wing straps were not tight where they should have gone so I guess I took out some of the Dihedral, I cut the slots off and hand drilled a small hole further in and used eyelets to make it easier to remove in the fiels without a screwdriver!

I decided to cut the wheel skirts a bit so they would not get caught in the wheels and I used some small cord to tie the skirts to the landing gear in one spot. see close up

Last step was to get the CG right and check aierlons I had set it up with a AR6100 to test with till my AR6200 came in, FYI it all had to be re-tweaked not an issue just remember to always check!.

My tail is a bit warperd from coating it, I think I will paint it next time and if it flies funny I may just replace it but I'll try it first.

...Continue Reading
Posted by -S- | May 02, 2010 @ 08:52 PM | 6,671 Views
AMP and Watt draw on new Bird
Well here is what I have tested.

I'm using a fresh charge on a 2200Mah 3s 25C battery
a 28-36-11 Motor
a Exceed 30A ESC W/UBEC
GWS 9050 Propeller

I didn't have the wing on I figure 2 more servos can't do a lot but I'll test it complete in the AM

At full throttle, which I assume is what I want to measure and I get small fluctuation between 16.3 AMP and 16.5 AMP
and Fluctuation between 188 Watt and 190 Watt

I only held it for about 20 seconds.

If that is proper procedure, I think I'm good! Motor is good for 20 AMP MAX for 30 seconds, and I should hopefully never get to 30A on the ESC.

I'm running out of things to tweak, I may just have to fly this silly thing!

Thank you! I couldn't have done it without ya'll -S-
Posted by -S- | May 01, 2010 @ 05:52 PM | 6,788 Views
05/01/2010 - Continued - Center of Gravity (COG, C.O.G)

OK official weight with all items installed 31 OZ (see pic on how I weighted it)

OK so it's about done, now for another question I had to read up on.

Center of Gravity. What is it and why.... Well I still don't understand it 100% but I've been told that it should be between 2.25 and 2.5 inches from the leading edge of the wing.

I tried using the finger tip method, being inexperienced that didn’t give me warm fuzzies so I build a machine to check it.

I used:
1 - 5/16 x 24 Rod cut in half
2 - 5/16 connectors that would connect 2 rods.
1 - 12x11x1/2 board.
Itty bit of epoxy and some duct tape!

I used the connectors to epoxy into the board so the rods can be removed for storage. I spaced the holes about 9 inches apart in the board.

I then threaded the connectors onto the ends of the rods, leaving about a 1/2 inch extra hanging out the bottom of the rods.

Then I placed the connectors in a vise, both rods next to each other, and used an angle gauge to bend both rods by hand to about a 60 degree angle. Then I unscrewed the connectors, put them on the other end and put a very slight bend back up on the tips I figure this would be better to hold the bird steady. Then I topped off the short bent tip with a rubber pencil eraser.

Bars done.

I took the board, and since I drilled all the way through I put some duct tape on the bottom of the board, put some more duct tape on the bottom of the connectors so the glue...Continue Reading
Posted by -S- | May 01, 2010 @ 05:18 PM | 6,738 Views
05/01/2010

Much has happened I got on a roll and went with it, I got a few pics and hopefully they will help someone out someday.

After the last post I decided to put in more of the electronics, I was waiting on the Motor Mount from Custom RC Parts ( www.CustomRCParts.com) and it was worth the wait! more on that in a bit.

I cut the battery box out to accept the 2200Mah Battery and below you'll see the parts I took out and hopefully where the came from. I used a Xacto knife, and the cutters may actually crack the plastic so I read be careful and slow it works great, trim off any extra sharp edges you don't want to rip the battery cover! (pic1)

Next I cut the servo horns down to have only one arm, centered them best as I could and then I "CA'd" the servos together so they would not move independently. I'm testing with a AR6100E but I will not use that in the final run. (pic2)

Next was to test the whole lot together (minus Motor) for the first time just to be sure everything moved as expected and it did! (pic3)

Then late this week the Motor Mount arrived, I was apprehensive at first because I did not have the exact motor that was recommended for the mount but it worked perfect! Gary at Custom RC Parts is a great guy and is very responsive. The mount was one thing I was scared to build from scratch and this took care of the whole issue for a very reasonable price!

I pondered and tried many different ways to mount it all up and I decided to lengthen the ESC...Continue Reading
Posted by -S- | Apr 25, 2010 @ 12:16 PM | 7,070 Views
04/25/2010

Servo and Aileron Install, linkage and such.

For the hinges I used Great Planes # GPMQ3971 it is a 15 pack, and I figured I'd screw some up but I didn't! but I have extras and the price was right.

When I cut the bevel on the leading edge of the aileron I did not do it straight and even all the way across this made me some issues but I think I will be OK, next time I will pay much more attention to that.

I followed NECubFlyer's video's again and I will through this process
( http://www.youtube.com/user/NeCubFlyer ) and used razor blades to line up the holes for the hinges. (pic1) the pic shows one hinge in there for reference watch the Vid it's great.

I used 30 min. epoxy to glue in the hinges to be sure you have time to make it all right, 5 min. is nowhere near enough time. Also I took NECubFlyer’s advice and put a drop of plastic safe oil on the hinge and it helped keep the epoxy out of the hinge, I still had to do some poking and such to get extra glue out but they work!

Next was to be sure the servo's would move freely and not bind anywhere and then cover them up with EconoKote. That went pretty smooth, I opted to epoxy them in, some may not agree but ya'll can fight amongst yourselves on that one (Pic-2)

OK servo's glued, time to hide the wires and per recommendations in the video I used some staple gun staples (T-50) about a 1/2 inch long near the center of the wing so if for some reason the wing came off in a crash it would hopefully pull...Continue Reading
Posted by -S- | Apr 19, 2010 @ 07:13 PM | 7,032 Views
04/19/2010

A 5 min. quickie for today!
OK I said I had a plan for the seams between the white and red.
I’m not sure how others get around this, and I think, many are actually able to cut a straight line and not have problems
Anyway I borrowed this from my past days in the automotive industry, and it's the reason we all have trim around our house walls and doors!
If you can't fix it, Hide it.
I actually like the look, it’s automotive Pin stripe available in a lot of colors sizes and width’s
Posted by -S- | Apr 17, 2010 @ 08:02 PM | 6,814 Views
04/17/2010

EconoKote and Wings.

I watched the videos again and I must admit, it's not a prize winner but I'm happy with it. a few wrinkles on the wing tips but for a first time I'm good with it.

To help me with orientation I decided to put black wing tips on the bottom and red wing tips on top. I guess we'll see how that works.

Next step is to attach the Ailerons and get the servos and links set up correctly.

I didn't take too may pics this time because NECubFlyer's YouTube videos are much better than I can ever produce.

Anyway here is what I yielded for today's work.

Thanks for stopping by! -S-
Posted by -S- | Apr 16, 2010 @ 07:59 PM | 6,958 Views
04/16/2010
EconoKote - Jams

I was very leery of my first coating job I have read it can be tough, but I went ahead and did it. I bought the iron from the LHS A Hobbico HCAR8000 it was under $20.00 and IMO well worth it.

I forgot to mention I am following along with NECubFlyer's YouTube Blog on all of these mod's The info is priceless and very good. He can be found at: http://www.youtube.com/user/NeCubFlyer

Late last night I jumped in with both feet and decided to do the bottom on the bird figuring the worst I could do is trash a Fuse right? It was very simple, and although not perfect I am very impressed with how it is coming along so far.

The strength of the Fuse seems to be dramatically increased, granted I'm a newbie but it feels much more solid, and the easily bendable tail section does not move now with moderate pressure.

Watch NECubFlyer's vids his info is much better than mine, I recommend getting a smaller iron, than a household iron. but do as you may.

The area where the 2 colors come together doesn't look to good but I have a plan, stay tuned....

The following pics are in order so far I like it! Sorry some of the pics suck, my camera has seen better days. Not sure what the next step is, but I guess you'll find out after I do!

THanks -S-...Continue Reading
Posted by -S- | Apr 15, 2010 @ 09:46 PM | 7,094 Views
4-15-2010 Entry 2

After the glue dried I moved on the reinforcing the battery box.

I used the same bass wood as in earlier posts 1/8 X 1/2 and roughly measured with width of the channels on the belly of the bird.

I cut the wood with a pair of cutters a bit longer than needed and sanded it to where it needed to be. I placed it on the spot I wanted it to go and using a good sharp blade traced out the wood cutting about an 1/8th of an inch into the bird removing enough foam so that the wood was about even or slightly countersunk from the edge of the foam.

Repeat above steps for the other end of the battery box!

Whip out the 5 min. epoxy again mix it up.... I put some on the sides of the foam so that the entire bed and sides were glued in tight, prolly over kill but I thought it was a good idea....set them in place hold a little pressure to squeeze out the extra epoxy clean it up quickly!

Next I took the battery door and removed all the items protruding from it except the battery tray latch. I intend to put a piece of CF Rod in the wing so I won’t use the struts, I THINK that is ok :-) if you want to use the struts, be sure to leave the plastic “sockets” for the struts in place.

Honestly on my first bird (that now lives in the tree) I took them off and still used the struts but it's prolly best to leave them on.

OK next I took the battery door frame lined it up where I wanted it and used a finger drill to put the holes in the wood. I got the drill at Harbor Freight it was like 4-5 dollars. No pic for this, but I then marked the position for the battery tray latch on the wood and cut a 3/16ths hole for it so that it recess into the wood and make a pretty good fit!

Stay tuned as I do more I'll post more! -S-
Posted by -S- | Apr 15, 2010 @ 08:33 PM | 8,454 Views
4/15/2010

Edited 04/30/2010 added parts list

*** Please understand I'm brand new to the hobby, this is what I have done, based on my reading and research. If you find something that is not correct please feel free to let me know! ***

Real long story short, I had my first flight about a week ago, my first flight ever with a real plane.

I've had Lots of SIM time and I've tinkered with toys planes on and off most of my life.

After the 3rd landing attempt I had to swing wide so I could try to make better approach and the SC it's now part of a tree. It will come down, but it may be a little bit.

Until it comes home, I've decided to build a new one from parts and include all the Mods that I have decided to use that fit my situation.

This is the current parts list. I have included vendors where applicable.

Scratch build parts list.
Super Cub LP PARTS
All from www.MyAtomic.com
Fuselage HBZ7385
Tail W/Acc HBZ7125
Wing HBZ7120
Clevis and rod set HBZ7128
Cowl HBZ7126
Decal Sheet HBZ7310
Landing gear HBZ7106


Other Parts
Custom RC parts Motor Mount – Awesome fit! – www.CustomRCParts.com
2836-11 Outrunner – www.HeadsUpRC.com
SERVO "Y" HARNESS - 6" standard – www.HeadsUpRC.com
GWS 9050 Propellers - www.HeadsUpRC.com
AR6200 6-Channel Receiver - www.BigSkyHobby.com
Servos D213F from Hobby parts Qty 4 www.HobbyPartz.com
Hinges Great Planes GPMQ3971 - LHS
control horns Hobbico HCAA3886 - LHS
Great Planes wheels (front) 2.5 inch 64mm GPMQ4223 - LHS
Du-Bro 1....Continue Reading