So a couple of weeks ago I was sold on a new Airfield model available through NitroPlanes.com - a T-28 Trojan, Silver "USAF" paint scheme. This model is the same as the "FMS" version, Airfield is really re-branded "FMS" made specifically for NitroPlanes. I decided to go for the "kit-only" version as I had a lot of 9g analog and 17g digital servos on-hand from HobbyKing, as well as a nice 400Kv 50mm x 55mm motor, brand new sitting in a box that was begging to be used to drive a ~0.40 sized scale model.

Here is the product link for the kit-only version of the (silver) T-28:

http://www.nitroplanes.com/93a328-14...ilver-kit.html

This particular airframe caught my eye for a couple of reasons: (A) It's size (1400mm/55" wing span) as well as sharp scale appearance, and (B) the kit-only version included the E-Retracts and LED's built-into the fuse, so I didn't have to worry about having to buy these items separately. Additionally, I bailed out of Nitro-gas powered planes this year, selling off the last Nitro-powered plane that I owned about a month ago (a P-51D Mustang), so I wanted another larger-sized warbird to replace the P-51D. I also happen to own a couple of dozen 3S 2200-2600mAh LiPo's, and using that 5055 400Kv motor, I had a good potential airframe for 6S, which allows me to Y-harness those 3S packs in series, I'm all about standardizing where possible.

Here is an overview of the electronics I used (which I already...Continue Reading

So one of the many battles the RC'er fights when building/assembling a RC helicopter is eliminating vibrations. After building nearly a dozen RC heli's over the past few years, I figured I'd write a quick beginner's how-to in order to simplify the process, as there is a lot of conflicting information out there on the web and some of the info is rather daunting.

What sort of harm do pronounced vibes cause on a RC Heli? Well, first of all, too much vibration can literally shake your heli apart during flight making it dangerous to fly, a badly vibrating RC heli is a crash hazard and should not be flown. Secondly, pronounced vibration can interfere with Gyro operation, making it difficult to control your heli during flight.

Here are some tips that I hope will help beginners...

(1) Don't be so quick to install all your blades and paddles at once before you spin up that motor for the first time! Spin up with no blades or paddles in the head or tail to get an idea of how bad your heli vibrates (if at all) with NO blades installed. Ideally you should not have noticeable or bad vibration here, but if you do, double check that you have tightened your main blade grips to your feathering shaft and that there is NO play in the blade grips (they should not "jiggle" back and forth). Also make sure your tail grips are tightened in the same manner. Double-check your flybar measurements with a digital caliper, you need to be as accurate as possible to ensure flybar length is

...Continue Reading

After taking a hiatus from RCG for about 6 months after dealing with some riff-raff on the site plaguing various threads, I decided to return to RCG for a number of reasons. At any rate, it's time for a new blog entry...

So my next project will be to build a sizable electric powered Aerobatic plane late this Spring before the flying season gets underway out here in soaked WNY. The flying fields are under water in many areas so flying season is still a few weeks out. I decided to invest in a NitroPlanes Extra 330L EP, it has a 53" wingspan and an approximate AUW of 5-5.5 lbs. Considering I own a slew of 3S 2200 and 2650mAh battery packs, I wanted something more appropriate for 6-cell pack use, so I can pair up my 3S packs in series, which is what I use in my 500-sized Trex clone heli.

Here is a photo of the model courtesy of NitroPlanes.com:



The NitroPlanes product link can be found below:

http://www.nitroplanes.com/extra330l-3d-plane.html

I plan on beginning the build this upcoming weekend. So this plane is sort of borderline regarding 6-cell battery use, but I like over-powering planes and this one will not be an exception. Size-wise, the Extra 330L EP is comparable to the the E-flite Carbon-Z Yak 54, but a little larger and heavier (the 330L is composed of balsa/ply rather than z-foam).

Here are the power components I have chosen thus far:

ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 80-Amp (internal BEC disabled)
UBEC: Turnigy 3-5A Switching UBEC
Motor: Turnigy 50-65A...Continue Reading

I'm fortunate to have a professional photographer in my club who generally shows up on Sundays for photographing club members' planes in flight, so I figured I'd keep a collection of photos of my planes in flight within this blog.

Here are some other planes that I own that haven't been photographed in flight yet (I'll add them as soon as the in-flight photos surface)...

* F-27B Stryker (built for speed with a Mega 16/25/4 motor on a 7x7 prop)
* R2Hobbies Electric Pitts (just finished assembling in Dec. 2008)
* Hobby-Lobby Thunderbird EDF with custom Wicked EDF 4800kV motor
* Ballistic Projeti with ARC 38-47-1.5 turn motor (still not completed)
* Splash 3D flying hydro boat with Hacker A30-22S brushless outrunner
* Miss Hanger One flying hydro with LS Purple Peril motor

First things first, my P-51D Mustang.

Specs:
0.60 sized model P-51D Mustang (Nitroplanes model)
Engine: Saito FA-100 4-stroke
Weight: Approximately 7.5 pounds AUW
Wing span: 67"
Retractable gear
Built: Spring of 2007

I was inspired to build a screaming fast Projeti after reading through a build log entry by numb_thumb, his build log can be found here

Some background on the Projeti - it's a "delta wing", 1-piece molded EPS (expanded polystyrene foam) airframe, and can be purchased at hobby-lobby.com for around $110. There are a wide variety of power systems that would work well in this wing - it could easily be built as a slow, docile park flyer, or a screaming ballistic rocket (what I'm attempting to do ). The Projeti kit includes servo connection hardware, a thin plastic canopy, a plastic motor mount (not suitable for powerful builds), and a large set of decals for sprucing up its looks.

I'll start with my motor choice. I wanted something that could feasibly top the Mega 16/15/3 power set up on 5S, built by numb_thumb. I initially jumped to conclusion and assumed that a hotter Mega wind (i.e. 1 or 2 turn) might get me there, but the increased power consumption just wouldn't be worth it. After researching the power systems forum (https://www.rcgroups.com/power-systems-13/ ), I decided on an ARC inrunner 1.5 turn motor (the 28-47-1.5 turn ARC), sold by LightFlightRC.com. The link to the specific motor page is here . LightFlightRC also has their own RCGroups thread which is VERY useful for reading up on their ARC power systems. I highly recommend reading through the following thread in order to become acquainted with ARC motors...
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/...Continue Reading

The Splash 3D was the first foamy that I ever built, and admittedly I was intimidated and hesitant to attempt the build at first. However, after a few minutes of reading and researching others' build logs, I took the plunge and purchased a Splash 3D kit from Ben-Rod. Speaking of where to buy the kits, here is the original Splash 3D thread:

Original Splash 3D Thread

Here is a useful build log by tdearth:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471178

Outline of my Splash 3D Build Log

Step 1 - Deck assembly
Step 2 - Sponson assembly
Step 3 - Tail and Cockpit
Step 3a - Decorating (optional)
Step 4 - Control horns/rods
Step 5 - Electronics
Step 6 - Repair

This is my SECOND Splash 3D build; after building the first one, I figured I'd build the 2nd as efficiently and as lightly as possible. The materials I am using for the build are as follows:

Adhesives:
* Sumo Glue (that's right, I'm using Sumo Glue exclusively for this build)

Additional Building Supplies Recommended:
* 3M Masking Tape
* Toothpicks
* Extra c/f flatbar
* Extra music wire (can be purchased at almost any hobby shop)
* Wax Paper
* A flat piece of scrap OSB or Plywood to act as a table top

Step 1 - Deck Assembly

Glue the deck pieces, including the inner sponsons. Run a fine bead of glue along the inner side of the tabbed areas of the deck pieces, then fit the pieces in so that the glue is forced upward toward the BOTTOM of the deck (the side with the carbon spar...Continue Reading