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Open the TX and you will see 4 pots attached to PCBs. You may have the blue ones or the white ones (newer). The two on the sides can easily be reached by removing the 4 screws that hold the gimbal assemblies in place. -
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A small black clip and a single screw holds down the PCB that the pot is attached to. Remove the clip and pull the PCB from the shaft. The pot cover is held down by 4 small clips that can be gently lifted with a needle. -
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Once the pot cover is off, you can see the small metal wiper and the track it slides on. -
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Lift the wiper out of the way to expose the track and underside of the wiper. -
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Wipe the track and underside of the wiper clean with a cotton swap dipped in rubbing alcohol. Then just reassemble everything after carrying this out on all stick pots. -
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Now for the calibration ... Get any old compact flash card and create the empty folder and file that are shown here. Make sure to name them exactly as seen. -
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Use Notepad to enter the exact text shown here on the T12ZTEST file. -
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With the radio off, insert the compact flash card into the side port of the radio (left side, under rubber flap).
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Side View -
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Front View. Top and bottom plates from 2 mm CF. Legs from 1.5 mm CF, and arms from 1 mm CF. -
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All items in case remain securely fastened despite jarring or shaking in any direction. -
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High strength strap system allows for balanced carrying with or without lipos installed. -
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Sony Nex 5n with 20 mm pancake lens, Fatshark FPV cam, and Flytron sLED v2. Camera mount has quick release and can be adjusted for angle. Mount can be placed to ensure correct center of gravity despite camera used. -
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Top plate has retractable GPS mount, heavy duty lipo strap, industrial Velcro pad, and front/rear access bays. -
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Front access bay can be removed with thumb screws to reveal Pixhawk PC. Safety switch installed in front of bay. -
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Rear access bay can be removed to reveal BECs, vTX, 180 A Attopilot, et cetera.
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Front view. H3-3D can yaw fully from side to side without props or prop shadows coming into view. H3-3D has ample clearance of ground, and held rigidly with thick carbon fiber angled brackets. -
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Landing gear consists of 3M XL rubber adhesive squares--about as light and touch as you can get. Dihedral of arms, along with elevation above centerplate ensures ample ground clearance. All carbon fiber is high quality McMaster Carr 1.6 mm. -
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Converted to handheld gimbal with 8" monitor, IRC Duo, ... -
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iM2700 case with high density microcell foam, Ronstan tiller clips (19 mm), Velcro straps, ... Nothing budges when shaken vigorously from any angle. Total weight of 22 lb (10 kg). -
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Inside of case. GPS mast is collapsible. -
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Arm joint for removable arms. No nuts used through entire multicopter in order to save weight (except for those used to tighten arm clamps). All parts are tapped. Loaded with dual 10,000 mAh lipos here. CG established equally well with one lipo. -
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Inside of arm joint. All dimensions, angles, et cetera held to tight tolerances throughout entire built. -
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Weighing centerplate and arms (without electronics). Slightly heavy, but built to withstand a nuclear blast. No flimsiness, and free of any vibrations.
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72 MHz swivel attachment has M3 screw coming through center. The ball can be adjusted by loosening the hex head directly to the left of it. The entire system is very sturdy. -
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The adaptor consists of a 3/4" long, 410 mil diameter Al cylinder with a 1/4-20 headless bolt screwed with red Loctite by 1/2". The remaining 1/4" was bored and press fit with another cylinder with M3 thread. The small cylinder is held wi -
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This is a picture of the 1/4" diameter small cylinder after it was press fit into the larger cylinder and held in place with Loctite 648. -
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The adapter in place. The monitor simply screws on, and is locked in place by the large thumb nut. -
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The radio balances just fine on the table top, and balances nicely with a neck strep when using a neck strap adapter that has been inverted. -
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The radio will also stand up on its own, depending upon how sharply the monitor is angled.
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Cable System Top -
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Cable System Bottom -
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Cable System Partially Assembled -
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Groove for T-Beam -
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I Beam Prior to Cutting into T-Beams -
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T-Beam Before and After Placement with G-Flex High Strength Epoxy -
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Carbon Fiber Wrapped Arm. Very Light and Very Rigid. -
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All 6 Arms with CF Wrap and T-Beams
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Front view. Hexacopter has "I" configuration. -
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Rear view. Battery stored within high inertia damper unit, which connects to gimbal. This is part of the Flexacopter design, and it helps to absorb vibrations and isolate the gimbal system from the rest of the multicopter. -
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Handheld version, with quick-attach side and top handles. -
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Modified Pelican 1610 case. All parts very securely held with heavy-duty Ronstan tiller extension clips and/or Velcro. The case can be shaken vigorously upside down or any angle, and no parts will move. Total weight of 35 lbs. -
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Inside of case: multicopter body, gimbal, monitor and RX, tripod, handles, tool bag, ... -
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Complementary radio/charger/converter case made from Pelican 1490 case. -
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Complete travel package with all accessories needed. Legally, two 10,000 mAh 6s can be taken onboard a commercial aircraft, and one can be stored underneath in the multicopter case, provided that it is installed in the battery box (US rules). -
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Plettenberg Orbit 15-34 motors and Mejzlik 15x5" props. I worked with Mejzlik for a number of months to design these propellers. I also have a "light" version, which is the same strength, but lighter, of course.
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The innards of the 12z. On the front side, the LCD cover was removed by removing the dial button and prying the cover off (it is held by temporary adhesive). -
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Under the first two circuit boards, there is a third one. Two small notches were ground out of this board using a cylindrical dremel bit. They coincide with the placement of the LEDs over the LCD (more below). Be careful not to cut into any circuitry! -
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The LEDs and 82 Ohm resister were wired in series (each LED requires ~3.4 V, and the battery voltage is ~7.8 V). When in series, each LED gets half the battery voltage. Make sure to align the poles of the LEDs correctly (+/- --> +/-). -
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The entire soldered unit shown in the previous pic is inserted into 5 mm holes drilled into the top frame surrounding the screen. The left LED is 1/3 from the left; the right LED is 1/3 from the right of the screen. Two wires about 6" long were add -
Views: 283
The positive lead from the LED chain was run to a small toggle switch, which was placed on the right switch panel. A third wire was attached to the opposite pole of the switch to run to the positive of the battery circuit via a plug, as seen below. -
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The third wire from above was paired with the ground from the LED chain and both were soldered to a RX connector. -
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A female RX connector was added to the positive and negative of the "charge" port of the battery circuit on the back half of the TX (using a plug enables the front/back halves of the TX to be separated completely). -
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Mini toggle switch in place.
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The innards. The GPS compass can be mounted inside or outside the frame, but locks satellites quicker when outside. IMU is at C.G. in battery compartment. -
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Case showing lower deck and half of upper deck. -
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Lower layer. Fits 6x2700 mAh 4s lipos, IRC Duo RX, tripod, 8" monitor, antennae, cables, etc. -
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Small enough to be considered "carry-on" luggage when traveling. -
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Copper foil greatly reduces satellite lock time, as did mounting the GPS on a foldable mast and adding a ferrite ring clip--about 30 s to 1.5 min (see other photos). -
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Ready to transport. The prop tips and motor shafts fit within millimeters! GPS mast must be in folded position, of course. -
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Ready to fly. -
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Underside. Inside vTX butts against aluminum WKM LED case. The case acts as a nice heat sink, in this way.
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Me with my new bird -
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Top -
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Bottom -
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Homemade wing bags -
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Clear shield protective skin, 36 mm spinner and 16x16s -
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Wing plug system (multiplex 6-pin connector in high density kickboard foam), wipers (using Dymo Letra tag), and homemade servo covers (I made a vacuum box and used thermoplastic) -
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Wing plug -
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Lipo plug bay for easy one-handed connection. Also, original Baudis sticker showing manufacture date of 2006 (this plane is new old stock)
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Preferrably, start with new 4s and 2s packs. -
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Cut off all the shrink wrap, labels, et cetera. -
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Both should be bare. You will notice that the 4s pack conveniently has a 5s connector, with a blank slot for addition of the balance lead that you'll need to add for the additional cell. -
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Take a look at the connections and convince yourself that every TP cell has a (+) tab and a (-) tab that are staggered, with one balance lead going to each tab. -
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The 2s lipo connector conveniently has the extra, unused balance lead that you will need when you add the 5th cell to the 4s pack. Just lift the tine plastic tab with a needle to remove. -
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Separate the cells of the 2s pack with a slim object like a credit card; do not pull the batteries apart with force. -
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Cut in the middle of the tab connecting the 2s cells so that you have plenty to work with when adding each cell to different 4s packs. -
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Solder the 5th cell to the 4s pack, tab-to-tab, and secure it to the adjacent cell with two-sided tape. Soldering the tabs is made easier by lightly sanding the faces to be connected. The balance and main battery leads will be added to the free tab.
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Views: 680
The Relion pack is simply shrink wrapped cells that can easily be separated by cutting the plastic. You will want to remove the soft glue connecting them together to make room for the space (more on this later). -
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There are three tabs on either side as well as two on each end. All you need to do is insert a flathead screwdriver on the tab shown and twist. The remaining tabs will disengage as you pull the shells apart. -
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Lift the bottom side of the battery, so that it is roughly perpendicular to the lower half (two metal bands affix it to the lower half--too much force or opening and closing could conceivably break them). -
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Pry and pull out the cell separator. -
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Push up on the end of one of the batteries with a flathead screwdriver. Some force is required, as there are runs of silicon holding each battery to the shell. -
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Cut the band as in picture. A sawing motion with a sharp blade will sever it. -
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Cut the attachment points on the other side of the cells, making sure to leave as much tab as you can on the PCB (there won't be much, as seen in picture). Again, a sharp razor blade is sufficient. -
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One end of the unwrapped Relion pack. The leads are soldered to tabs. You will want to desolder the leads and bend the tabs back and forth until they come off, leaving the other half of the tab still spot welded to the battery terminals.