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Posted by DLGjunkyard | Oct 25, 2013 @ 01:22 PM | 11,532 Views
I obviously like photography and I thought this pictures helps by showing a good example of why a bias fabric will bend around a corner better than a 0/90 degree fabric orientation
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Oct 18, 2013 @ 01:24 PM | 13,436 Views
I thought I would open up a section of my blog for eye candy.

I cut a whole bunch of highload 60 tail and wing cores and turns out a softer lighter foam is more suitable for textreme wings so Im not seeing uber light weight parts just yet but the highload 60 is much more dent resistant. My next foam cutting session will be when I up my game and start doing full carbon parts. Its just so darn nice to work with and even nicer to gaze upon. ...Continue Reading
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Apr 22, 2013 @ 08:52 PM | 16,305 Views
The carbon tow commonly used is 1k tow or perhaps 3k tow to avoid and bumps in the skins surface. I got my hands on some super fine 6k tow and with a bit of work it can be mashed flat enough to be bump free. The tow must be swimming in resin when rolled. If you plan or rolling it after taking out the excess resin its nearly impossible.This tow may not look as neat as 1k tow but keep in mind in theory it is 6 times the amount. It has made for zero twist from torsional loads on a DLG wing which translates into higher launches ...Continue Reading
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Mar 08, 2013 @ 03:59 PM | 16,579 Views
Just to try to simplify a bias fabric layout I decided to take a few pictures.

This goes out to my buddy Clifford11

The glass in these pictures is 1.6 oz and can be handled pretty easy so flipping it over isnt must of a problem. The very loose fabrics and fine weaves are often not handled this way. In the case of the lighter fabrics the wax paper transfer method is often used. The wax paper method is done by cutting out wax paper the same size as your mylars then misting them with 3M 77 spray adhesive.The adhesive sticks the wax paper down on the fabric allowing you to cut and handle the fabric without pulling or disturbing the weave of the fabric. The mylars are then wet out with epoxy , the fabric is laid into the resin and gently the wax paper is removed and your skins are ready for debunking excess epoxy NOTE think about this for a moment. IF wax paper is used in the case of this photo session the bottom skin would have the wax paper stuck to the wrong side of the glass [gets confusing EH? ] iT is, thats why I did this photo session and recommend using slightly heavier than ideal glass for your first few bagged wings [DLG wings often use lighter glass]. Being able to flip fabric over by hand and laying it on the mylars dry keeps things simple. I hope this helps

Phil Barnes also wrote a description along with the reasoning for fabric layups found here: Reading
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Mar 18, 2012 @ 06:23 AM | 20,631 Views
I had seen a lot of top drive installs using thicker carbon rods but all I had was music wire so I wanted to be sure my holes where tight going through the foam and also the placement had to be accurate so I made a guide and use a cigarette lighter to heat the burn wire. I was also very careful about not enlarging the exit hole through the kevlar. The rod has to flex a very small amount near the horn so the foam has to be slotted at that point. I did that with my dremal wheel. I managed to get a dymond d4.7 under the skin surface on the bottom side. Very tight fit indeed....Continue Reading
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Dec 30, 2011 @ 06:44 AM | 21,962 Views
One example which can be purchased

Inside the plastic cover there is a a small PCB with 2 male servo connector that shares + - and signal!
What I do is to remove the plastic cover and cut the PCB signal layer on the PCB. Then I solder a new signal Cable with a female servo uni plug. And there you have a good functional harness for the fuselage!

The diagram below is just to show the basic principal of a shared system V V V V V V V
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Dec 26, 2011 @ 07:00 PM | 23,436 Views
I think this set takes care of every thing up until preparing the skins/mylars.I will continue onto bagging next as time permits but I now need a assistant to take pictures once the resin gets mixed...Continue Reading
Posted by DLGjunkyard | Dec 24, 2011 @ 05:33 AM | 24,110 Views
a small description and diagram of how I cut kevlar hinges for my glider control surfaces

note:Read the text file down below . The diagram corresponds with the text file.The text should be read first to get the most out of the diagram