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Pioneer III 3m, kit made by AR Flugmodelle ( https://www.ar-flugmodelle.at/pionee...aserteilesatz/).
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Finally its done, waiting for the maiden flight... isn't she a beauty?
Electric setup with 6S, Ramoser Scale Propeller, about 1600 W (80A) power. 4.7 kg AUW. The P-40 is fully covered in glass and scale details applied. Gear doors will be added after the maiden.
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Electric setup with 6S, Ramoser Scale Propeller, about 1600 W (80A) power. 4.7 kg AUW. The P-40 is fully covered in glass and scale details applied. Gear doors will be added after the maiden.
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Not quite the normal paint scheme 
- full cockpit and details, ACL lights and afterburner simulation. Even a retractable brake chute is fitted.
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- full cockpit and details, ACL lights and afterburner simulation. Even a retractable brake chute is fitted....Continue Reading
HSD Super Viper (8S), new paint job, 2k covered, carbon enforced and upgraded intake makes a whole new plane out of the foamy. Flies great!
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Just building a flying wing is so boring, so I made a Minon fighter plane! Today the skies, tomorrow... the moon! *muhahrhar* 
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Upgraded to brushless and electric retracts. 2 x Turnigy 2836-1200kV / Plush 30A @ 27A with 9x6 APC E. Turnigy Full Metal Servoless Retract with 80mm Oleo Legs / 60mm wheels, 25C 3S 4000mAh 25C Zippy Compact, AUW ~2kg. Flies and looks great!
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I just finished the springtime maintenance on the Cobra and though I post some images. Its based on a Mikado Logo 10 and the AH-1F Cobra fuselage kit from Approach Engineering. Pilot figures by McFarlane Military Series 3 ("Helicopter Chief").
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Towing a flag is fun and can be done quite easily. It works exactly like towing a banner but requires less power and can be done by smaller planes (depending on the flag size of course). The following works for me:
Above images my biplane (loosely based on an Udet Flamingo) with 1.80m wingspan towing a 90x60cm flag. Also a 120x90cm one works fine with this setup.
This scheme describes how to attach the flag. It also works for a banner.
For takeoff place the flag flat on the ground, straighten the line and slowly increase speed. It will move to an upright position once in the air automatically.
Attach the line to the tow release, which should be located about 10-20% of the fuselage length behind the GC. Now for the important part: Be sure the line runs below the elevator! In the air the flag is always below the airplane, so the line will otherwise press on your elevator and that can ruin a perfectly good day. Also don't fly too fast, the flag will add quite some drag and will flutter at higher speeds, beside it does not look good.
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Above images my biplane (loosely based on an Udet Flamingo) with 1.80m wingspan towing a 90x60cm flag. Also a 120x90cm one works fine with this setup.
This scheme describes how to attach the flag. It also works for a banner.
For takeoff place the flag flat on the ground, straighten the line and slowly increase speed. It will move to an upright position once in the air automatically.
Attach the line to the tow release, which should be located about 10-20% of the fuselage length behind the GC. Now for the important part: Be sure the line runs below the elevator! In the air the flag is always below the airplane, so the line will otherwise press on your elevator and that can ruin a perfectly good day. Also don't fly too fast, the flag will add quite some drag and will flutter at higher speeds, beside it does not look good.
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A while ago I built a Windrider/HK Mig-3. A wonderful bird to look at but it turned out to be a beast in the air. When flying at lower speeds it did just fall out of the air - tip stall without any warning, its name was Mig-3.
After some crashes and rebuilds I gave the Mig-3 to a colleague and forgot about it.
Well, almost - when I stumbled over a HK Mig-3 on eBay I know I had to try again and this time make it fly, and fly well.
Isolate the issue
The Migs tip stall issue comes from several causes.
One is the wing geometry, a wide wing in the center and quite small tips. While scale in appearance (and true to it - the original Mig had quite unpleasant stall characteristics) its always cause for alarm. Its problem is that on such a wing the tip tend to stall before the root. Several things can be done to prevent this from happening:
- reshape the wing - gives good results as the VQ Mig-3 shows but impossible to change later for an ARF bird (and besides it does not look scale anymore!)
- geometric twist, decrease incidence of the outboard leading edge by some degree - usuall works fine but also impossible to change later as well. The Mig-3 has no such increased incidence at the tips.
What is possible later is to raise both of the ailerons a few degrees. This reduces lift but also the tendency for a stall however only slightly.
- different airfoils tip / root. Likewise impossible to change for a ready-made plane.
Well, that leaves one more thing: Tubulators
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After some crashes and rebuilds I gave the Mig-3 to a colleague and forgot about it.
Well, almost - when I stumbled over a HK Mig-3 on eBay I know I had to try again and this time make it fly, and fly well.
Isolate the issue
The Migs tip stall issue comes from several causes.
One is the wing geometry, a wide wing in the center and quite small tips. While scale in appearance (and true to it - the original Mig had quite unpleasant stall characteristics) its always cause for alarm. Its problem is that on such a wing the tip tend to stall before the root. Several things can be done to prevent this from happening:
- reshape the wing - gives good results as the VQ Mig-3 shows but impossible to change later for an ARF bird (and besides it does not look scale anymore!)
- geometric twist, decrease incidence of the outboard leading edge by some degree - usuall works fine but also impossible to change later as well. The Mig-3 has no such increased incidence at the tips.
What is possible later is to raise both of the ailerons a few degrees. This reduces lift but also the tendency for a stall however only slightly.
- different airfoils tip / root. Likewise impossible to change for a ready-made plane.
Well, that leaves one more thing: Tubulators
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This is an old model I have restored over the winter, a "Pelikan" designed by Robert Schweissgut, Austria.
Composite fuselage, 3.7m wingspan, 500W HCS Roton brushless motor and 15x7 folding prop:
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Composite fuselage, 3.7m wingspan, 500W HCS Roton brushless motor and 15x7 folding prop:
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I recently got a key cam #16 for areal photography. While this tiny camera can be just attached by a strip of velcro, I thought a real camera mount makes it look nicer and will produce better movies due to better decoupling from vibrations and optimized camera angle. (And I was right! ) Made from carbon fiber with a total weight of 28g (incl. the camera):
The smaller one is the counter weight for the other wing.
) Made from carbon fiber with a total weight of 28g (incl. the camera):The smaller one is the counter weight for the other wing.
| Key cam #16 In-flight clip (6 min 56 sec) |
Got this plane in a very damaged state. The aft section of the fuselage was completely broken. After a few weeks rebuilding the fuselage, elevator and rudder its back in full glory. Also added a towing release and magnet locks for the side door. Recently also changed the wheels to 6" bushwheels but thats not yet in the pictures.
2.05m wingspan, 3800g AUW, flies great.
2.05m wingspan, 3800g AUW, flies great.
Finally finished this baby. Full composite Spirfire Mk. IX by Jim Fox (Fox Composites), 1.4m wing span and 2800g AUW, scale pilot and cockpit and electrical retracts:
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