This is taken from the hollyday website using the Internet Archive to dig up the info. I need it from time to time as I'm sure others do as well.



The Micro Switch-Jack is designed for low current applications. Its maximum current rating is a conservative 1 ampere at 6vdc. This is a continuous carry load rating. It is more than sufficient for two small servos in our typical Hand Launched Gliders. The jack can handle the rough and tumble environment of the HLG with ease. Total jack weight: 1.3 grams! Enjoy!
Parts List:
· Jack with 0.016” washer, panel nut. Terminals marked with wiring codes in red ink
· One plug with red anodized aluminum handle
· 12” x 1/8” red ribbon
· 1.125”L x 0.125”W 3M® polyolefin heat shrink tubing
· This 2 page instruction sheet
· Schematic and assembly diagram sheet
· (Optional) Connectors soldered and heat-shrinked to plug and jack
Installation into fuselage:
The Micro Switch-Jack can be installed in any fuselage with a wall thickness up to 0.080”. If you are not concerned with flush mounting the jack, then just create a clean hole in the fuselage that is 3/16” diameter, and insert the threaded jack bushing though the hole, fastening it with the included panel nut and thin washer. A lock washer or Loctite® can be used to secure the nut more permanently. Mine is tightened by...Continue Reading

Earlier this year I helped support the USA F3K team by purchasing raffle tickets. The money helped to get them over to Sweden for the inaugural F3K world championships.

This plane was one of the grand prizes donated by Soaring USA, I was lucky enough to be the recipient.

I took receipt of this plane on 11/7/2011 and will be snapping photos as I assemble the plane.

Here is the unboxing.....Continue Reading

I've converted over my Swift NX (550mm blade heli) to flybarless. I'm using the Skookum Robotics SK-720 + power bus. The head is made by RJX, I bought this one from Heli Direct, marketed for the Align 600. It will fit any 10mm main shaft.

I thought this looked like a great project after reading/hearing of ATTF podcast member GFBurke's success on a 9303.

It was not so easy on a DX7. The build is completely different, the LCD mates up to the plastic case with no foam edging like the 9303.

Here is what I was able to accomplish, but be warned this is a difficult undertaking.

1. Remove the LCD panel from the radio. Be careful of the ribbon wire that connects it to the circuit board. 2 screws hold the circuit board in the case, 2 other screws hold the LCD in place on the board.

2. Remove the reflective backing from the panel
3. Create a plastic board custom sized for the LCD and brackets. Notch the plastic board and scuff it with 600 grit sandpaper (needs to be fine scratches to dissipate the light coming in). Paint the backside white so you can still use it during the day without the LED's on.
4. Solder up some LED's to fit. I used LED's from the strips that are so popular these days. I would make sure all your wiring comes out the same side of the LED, so that you can make the front side flush with the LCD screen.
5. Glue the LED's onto the board and mount it all back on the circuit board. Make sure your wiring is not getting pinched and that the board seats properly, or your front rocker switches for programming and such won't work.
6. Wire up your switch. I soldered onto the circuit board that connects to the battery pack. The positive leads were soldered directly to the board and the negative...Continue Reading

Cool site showing how wiring works in our nerdy world.

Battery wiring demistified

ESC/BEC wiring demistified