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Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Yesterday @ 06:59 PM | 1,704 Views
Ok, I thought I was done for the day, but...... I started on the stabilizer. BTW, I did finish the right wing panel too. I put the final LE material on and sanded it to shape.

I must say that this kit is SO over engineered in areas it isn't funny. I already mentioned the wing tips, now this stabilizer. I mean really? First of all they use large material to make this. 5/16" spruce leading edge and 3/16" x 3/8" top spars. Top spars?? Then you put some die cut ribs in to hold the shape of no less 3/32" sheeting. Holy cow!? This is designed for a 1.20 size 4 stroke..... no it was designed way back when engines were much less powerful. I am absolutely sure no one ever ripped the stabilizer apart back in the late 60's and 70's with the under powered engines of the day. I am just shaking my head the entire time I frame this thing up.

Not only that but the material provided is very dense balsa. Good thing I am putting a relatively heavy Enya engine in the nose. Now some pictures. This is it for the night, my back hurts.... Oh this is just the top. The bottom also gets the spar and sheeting....geeeez.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Yesterday @ 03:47 PM | 1,725 Views
The right wing panel is nearly completed now. The only things remaining to do are to fill some gaps, install the final LE edge piece and shape it.

I am NOT a perfectionist when it comes to building. I build strong, straight, make mistakes, correct mistakes and then in the end it gets covered with Monokote. I admit I sometimes get on a roll and make a mistake or two that needs to be fixed. Like beginning to install 3" wide LE sheeting instead of 4" wide sheeting. I have been building planes for over 27 years. Most airplane construction is pretty much the same from plane to plane. D tube wing construction, sheeting, cap strips, LG mounts, etc.

The wing tips on this plane are way over engineered and heavy IMO, but I am going to build this airplane pretty much as designed. I am not going to make major modifications to the construction process, but there are things I will do a bit differently. The wing tips, I pretty much just slapped together on the glass sheet. They will get final sanded to shape so I am not too concerned about absolutely perfect junctions.

Back to how I am building the Hog. I am thinking of going against common practice of 2 aileron servos and using the old school method of one in the middle of the wing with the torque rod setup as described in the instructions. Aileron box installed next.

Now the fun if this kit begins, cutting 1/2" parts from printed on 1/2" stock. Gotta love old SIG kits. Wing filler block for...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 30, 2015 @ 07:49 PM | 2,742 Views
Well the decision was made and the Astro Hog wins out this time. Reasons: I have never built one before, 1 fewer wing, and thus possibly completed sooner. I will be installing my Enya 60-4C initially and then at some point the Enya 80-4C. This airplane is being built for those 2 engines. Since both have identical mounting holes and are basically exactly the same, it only makes sense.

The right wing panel assembly began tonight. I have a 48" long balsa building board and I also purchased some ceramic magnets from Harbor Freight. They are just all enough to act as 90 degree holders and PLENTY strong enough to hold the wood together.

I am using both Elmers wood glue as well as Bob Smith medium and thin CA for this build.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 29, 2015 @ 05:56 PM | 2,247 Views
I know nearly, if not all of my entries have to do with running, buying, rebuilding engines. Well here is a change of pace. I have made a committment that 2015 is going to be a renewed year of building for me. With that more entries will be about building airplanes as well as engines.

I really do not have much space to build and that has contributed to why I haven't done much in the last 10 years. But I went out bought a new table, pulled the trusty building board and sheet of glass to cut on out and prepped the room. I already had a SIG Astro Hog up on the top shelf of the closet begging for me to start it. So I pulled it down and began prepping it for a build. I took all of the wing ribs out, cut the plans into size for building on top of.....and just as I was going to start glueing some wing spars together tonight, a package was standing in my room.

I had placed an order from Hobby Horse for a SIG Hog Bipe; it arrived! This was a birthday present to myself. I got it for $166 even though SIGPlanes .com had raised the prices on this kit to $173. I also got free shipping so it was a win win. Then I looked at the box after taking the brown paper off just to see that the price tag on it from HH was $173.68. I really scored!

So now the conundrum. Which should I build first?
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 24, 2015 @ 06:39 PM | 1,629 Views
So I get these two engines and neither one runs. One engine is new but has a 'crack' in the head near rocker arm mount. The other is some pretty war torn engine. Between the two one good engine should result. Right? I took both apart starting with the used engine.

It was pretty dirty and had evidence of lots of run time as seen in the carbon deposits on the exhaust valve stem and face. The piston ring was worn into the piston head and I do not think they could ever be separated. The PO had installed the head from this engine onto the new engine. So this had the new head on it. I was so into the disaeembly that I did not take many pictures of the internals. I removed the valve cover and noticed a broke, sheared off rocker arm mounting lug, not a 'crack'. This head is toast. Strip the valves, springs, etc. and begin the clean up of the used head.

The new engine was just that a NEW engine with a used head installed. So I did not completely tear this engine down. I just removed the head and installed the cleaned up used head. I installed all of the new head hardware and tightened it all down. Set the valves and viola! Ready to run for the first time.

She runs!!

Enya 80-4C First run.(1) (1 min 22 sec)


...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 24, 2015 @ 09:29 AM | 1,378 Views
Here are a couple of videos of the FA-56 that I got yesterday. I ran it for the first time. It fired right up and holds a nice idle of 2255-2400RPM with an APC 12x6 propeller. Mogan's Omega 10%.

During the cleaning I had removed the needle valve. It was set at 3.5 turns open. I reset it to 2.5 turns open and this is how it ran at that setting. The first video it topped out at 10,400 RPM. I eventually opened the needle so that WOT was about 9800-9900 RPM on the stand.

This is true Saito perfection and quality.

Initail start up (1 min 33 sec)

...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 24, 2015 @ 08:17 AM | 1,441 Views
So back around Christmas I posted that I had scored a nice NIB Saito 56. Then in my search for the perfect NIB Enya 53-4C, I sacrificed the 56 in a straight trade. So I began another search for a 56 to replace it. I wasn't too concerned about getting a NIB one, but would if the opportunity presented itself. It did not, but I did find a very nice used 56 from a member here.

A 2 digit monetarty score and I have another very nice Saito. As usual with used engines I get, I opened it up to determine it's true usage and condition. I found it to be a used engine that seemed fully broken in. It had spent quite some time in a sideways mounted position, by the pooling/staining of the right side of the backplate cover and crankcase. It had never been opened up before. I could tell by the torque on the screws and the lack of marks on the rocker arm screws. Those screws are always so tight there is most often some burring on the slot if it has been opened up. Finding the exact thickness blade that is narrow enough to fit inside the slot is tough without grinding a screw driver down.

The intake valve was a bit loose > .10mm, but the exhaust valve was right on. The upper end, rocker arms and valve spring area was dry. Apparently it had never been lubed by the owner. The valve cover gaskets were dry and broke when I opened it up. No worry, I usually remove those gasket anyway. It is not like tons of oil gets up there and even if it did and I saw a small amount seeping...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 19, 2015 @ 05:53 PM | 1,675 Views
With the 11 engines I have right now I would say only 3 of them are FULLY broken in. I have had numerous engines in the last 3 years. Some come and some go and in my desire to acquire NIB engines I sometimes forget how nice it is to have fully broken in engines. They include my Saito FA-45S, the Enya 60-4C, and the Enya 46-4C. Today I took the 46 out of the box and put it on the stand for a quick tank.

I am not a member of a flying club at this time; I let my membership lapse at the Largo Flying Field. Just too many electric fliers there and glow powered planes are looked down upon. Soon I will be joining SPARKS where I had a membership 10 years ago. At least there glow and gas powered planes are welcomed.

So I had removed the 46 from the Tower Uproar it had flown since I bought the engine in 2013. I am unsure how much run time was on it when I bought it but I have put some fuel through it on the Uproar.

On the bench, after prime, 2 flips and it was running. I had taken the needle valve out for storage so I had to reset it. Using my tach, I got it turning the 11x6 prop over 10,000 RPM. In fact it hit 10,500RPM and then I backed it back down to 9800RPM for the bench run.

I have to admit, in the past I have owned many more Saito's than Enya engines, and I cannot ever remember feeling so confident about an engine just sitting at idle for extended periods than I have with these Enya's. I mean the 60 and 46 I can pull the throttle back all the way to the...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 18, 2015 @ 11:43 AM | 1,453 Views
So I put both the Enya and the Saito on the bench today for a quick tank before football comes on. I'm telling you that Enya is one of the best looking engines I have ever owned. Compared to the Saito it is a sweetheart too. Now obviously it doesn't have the same compression ratio of the Saito, 7.5:1 vs 9.82:1 of the Saito, but it does make it a bit less dramatic in hand starting.

That damn Saito, or should I say, those damn Saito engineers. I do not understand why they chose to eliminate the throttle stop screw on the carbs for the 91S. Most, if not all, other Saito engines have this. On the test stand it becomes a big deal, as I cannot see or tell how far the throttle is closed before it dies. Not to mention setting the idle. Anyway, this guy bit me yesterday. Numbed the tips of my fingers for a few minutes.

So I ran both and they both performed flawlessly, less the starting issue on the Saito.

They videos can be viewed here.

Saito 91 running (1 min 0 sec)

...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 10, 2015 @ 12:42 PM | 1,827 Views
After a two year search, I finally landed the elusive Enya 53-4C and NIB! It cost me a NIB Saito FA-56, but I am good with that. I have had several 56's and they are plentiful. This on the other hand, not so plentiful. Especially this one. This is one of the early ones that includes everything under the sun. Glow plug, remote ignitor, tools set, but yet oddly no feeler gauge. No matter I have plenty of them.

I have been running the 46 and 60 today, so I'll leave this one in it's pristine state for a bit longer....Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 03, 2015 @ 07:51 PM | 1,676 Views
So I quickly opened the rocker cover and checked the valves. I had set them prior to the first runs. The intake was a bit looser but the exhaust was the same.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 03, 2015 @ 11:04 AM | 1,423 Views
Well I did it, I strapped it to the bench and ran 2 tanks thus far. I am impressed, but not surprised. It literally started on the very first flip of the prop. Got to go to lunch now.... will add to this a bit later.

Ok, I just ran a third tank through it. The first two I had the needle valve set so rich that at WOT I was getting only 6000 RPM and 7000 RPM respectively. On the third tank I leaned it to 8000 RPM at WOT. I also began to adjust the idle on this tank. I have the airbleed set to hold a nice 2880 RPM with a nice transition.

I am running Omega 10% and a Master Airscrew 14x6 prop.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 01, 2015 @ 12:14 PM | 1,678 Views
The current family picture.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jan 01, 2015 @ 08:53 AM | 1,801 Views
The engine had have wanted for a long time finally arrived yesterday. I was excited all the away up until I pulled it's hulking mass out of the box. This thing is HEAVY. I have loved Enya engines for many years in the smaller sizes. believe it or not this is the first time I have actually held a 90 or 120 size engine in my hand. Sure I have seen them bolted to the fronts of airplanes, but never held.

Well I must say it is a nice LOOKING engine and I am sure it runs well, but I am unsure at this moment if I will ever install it into an airplane. Several reasons:

1. I really do not build much anymore.
2. I do not really fly planes this size anymore.
3. Most modern ARF's of today could not accomodate this engine.

My first and 3rd points have to do with quality of construction of the airframe. It does not take a genius to figure out that any airplane this engine will be strapped into needs a VERY beefy firewall. Ones you can really only get by making them yourself. I have seen enough modern ARF's, having owned a few, to know that the quality of the wood, specifically plywood, is quite inferior and substandard to the aircraft grade you will find and use in kits.

As such I can keep this engine as a shelf beauty for x number of years and run it on the test stand as I do with so many of my engines, or I can sell it and try score the elusive NIB Enya 53-4C. Or heck, just buy another Saito. They seem to be on the for sale list literally ALL the time. Not...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 26, 2014 @ 09:55 AM | 1,692 Views
I was taking some comparison pictures of my FA-45S and the new 56 I just got. Seeing as they are the same size crank case, I wanted to see what all physical differences there were between the two.

I also figured since it was out I would put it on the stand and run a tank through it. It started on the 3rd flip. I had a MA 11x6 propeller and Omega 10% fuel.

I recorded 10,500RPM @WOT and a nice 2400RPM steady idle. This is one sweet running engine and the one Saito that I have the most run time on. Although I am not sure how much it really is. It is also the engine I have had the longest; I think I bought it around 2000.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 25, 2014 @ 06:41 PM | 2,284 Views
So I had a very nice xmas, I just recieved my NIB Saito FA-56. I am finally getting all of the engines in the condition I want them in for my collection and long term possession.

I am currently looking for a very good to NIP header and cannister muffler for this engine as I am most dis-satisfied with Saito's latest design. I do not care what it sounds like, it looks like crap. Don't care if it provides a performance boost, not sure if it is supposed to, it is hideous! Period.

Anyway, not sure when I am going to fire this engine up but obviously it will not be until I get a new header and muffler.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 23, 2014 @ 01:20 PM | 2,671 Views
I strapped my newly acquired 91S to the test stand today for its inital few runs. Normally I am a stickler about adhering to the manufacturers break-in instructions; however I do not necessarily agree with what Saito states.

First they state for a 91 open the needle valve 2 1/2 full turns from closed. I open it 3 full turns. Then they state do not run the engine above 4000 RPM for the first 10 minutes of operation, but they do not state whether or not this 4K is acheived @WOT with the needle valve or the intial needle settings and only run 4K using the throttle setting. Most manufacturers state to run at WOT and achieve the RPM range with the needle valve.

Either way this is what I did: Open 3 full turns and run the engine at various throttle settings througout the fuel tank(s). I assure you 3 turns open is a VERY rich setting. I did not allow the RPM to go above 8000 max on the first tank. I was using a Master Airscrew 14x6 propeller.

I have been breaking in Saito engines since 1991 and I have never had a premature failure, or any failure of any kind on one. So I am quite sure my procedure will yield a favorable result again.

This engine started on the first flip and ran like it had already been run before. Sure it will benefit from a bit of leaning in a few tanks, but it ran quite well. It would hold a steady 3300 RPM idle on this initial tank too. I ran 2 tanks in total today. There was a nice cloud of white exhaust drifting through the neighborhood...

I was comparing this engine to my 65 a few days ago. I took the carbs off of each and compared them side by side. You can see how different they are, and the throat size of the 91 is enormous.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 22, 2014 @ 10:12 AM | 2,195 Views
It had to happen some time; I could not let this engine sit around forever. I just put 2 tanks of Omega 10% through the engine. I strapped an APC 10x6 on it , swapped out the glowplug that was in it. It was not a standard Enya plug, in fact it looked like a Fox plug with a big idle bar. I typically do not run plugs with idle bars in ANY engine unless absolutely necessary. It was not in this case.

Following the instructions for starting and break-in, I put about 5 drops of fuel into the carb and flipped the prop several times. It took exactly 1 flip for this engine to start!! I had the needle valve set to 3 turns out which was a bit much.

Using my tach I leaned the mixture until I had 8500 RPM @ WOT. This may sound like a lot but it was still blubbering rich, although it would run without the ignitor on.

Tank 2 I leaned it to 9000 RPM. I will run sesequent tanks leaning slightly each time until I get to about 11K-12K RPM. The listed RPM range for this engine is 8K-16K RPM. I do not fly pylon racers or anything like that so I will not lean this above 12K PRM on the ground for general flying.

I had the air bleed screw set to the mid way closed setting, a good setting for any air bleed carb to begin with, and the engine would hold a very nice 3000 RPM idle. Transistion was not ideal as yet but it is just the first few tanks. At no time did the engine stall or hesitate at all through the runs. I would hold WOT for 10-12 seconds and then drop to mid to low for 10-12 seconds.

All and all just another high quality Enya engine!
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 21, 2014 @ 01:29 PM | 2,096 Views
Man I love this forum! Since I got back into the hobby in 2012 I have scored some really killer deals on engines, particularly 4-stroke engines. To date I have not paid over $200 for any engine. Now some of the deals came from RCUniverse but still.

Since 2012 I have bought the following NIB engines. Not a single engine cost more than $200 shipped to me. Now I don't still have all of these engines as I like to horse trade, but the point is great deals are available to those who search.

Saito FA-65 - local craigslist have run several times to include yesterday.
Saito FA-91 - RCGroups still have not run
OS FS-90 - From RCU still have not run.
Enya 80-4C - From RCU still have not run.
Enya 60-4C - Recieved in trade, and have now sold.
OS FS-70 Surpass - traded straight deal for Enya 60-4C
Enya 90-4C - Has not arrived yet
Saito FA-56 - Has not arrived yet.
Enya SS 40BB(2) - ran run for 15 tanks and sold it. Just bought another
Saito FA-45 - sold

That is just some the NIB engines, I have not even listed the other used engines I have bought, run and sold. Some of those would be

OS-FS-90 (2) - both sold for other things.
Saito-FA56 - sold in an airplane deal
Enya 46-4C - still around will never sell
Saito FA-50 - sold

I guess the point of this post is that this is a great forum to obtain engines from and all states. I am partial to the older style engines from the 80's and 90's.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 20, 2014 @ 11:40 AM | 1,917 Views
So I pulled my prized Saito 65 out of the box a few days ago for a touchy feely session and noticed that it was a bit stiff turning over the crankshaft. Likewise the carb arm too was a bit stiff. Apparently I had not properly shut it down and/or put enough MMO in after its last run. My bad. I put some my MMO in through the breather and rotated the crankshaft around numerous times with a prop on it.

Then I figured, what the heck, I'll just run it again this weekend, along with the Enya 60 I picked up recently. Sort of a side by side RPM to RPM evaluation.

So I strapped the Saito onto the bench first.

It started after the proper prime on the first flip. Once it warmed up a bit I recorded the tachometer readings:
9150 RPM WOT
2610 RPM idle.

The Enya 60 started on about the 3rd flip after prime and recorded the following:
8500 RPM WOT
2200 RPM Idle
I believe that I stated in an earlier post on this engine that I would put some gasket sealer on the front end before running. Well guess what? I didn't. As it turns out the front end did not leak a bit during either of the runs. Unsure if that is just a testament to the machining process for the Enya engines or if I just got lucky. Now I did see some seepage of what I believe to be oil from around the head connection. At least I could see moisture of some sort dancing around while it was running. But there was quite a bit of condensation from the intake manifold too.

Both engines were running the same 13x6 Master Airscrew propellor.

Videos can be seen here:
http://s134.photobucket.com/user/dmr...of%20the%2060s