Posted by edi.winter |
Feb 26, 2010 @ 05:20 AM | 9,348 Views
Setting up Brakes on a Bike isnt that easy so here is a little info how I do it. This might not be the 100% proper way but it works for ME.
First the Stock bikes dont have a front brake so you have to rely on the brake of the Motor/Esc on the rear. Switch off any Reverse Gear *LOL*. Then Switch off any type of drag brake or anything that influences the rear wheel when you are in neutral. Start with the lowest brake setting on the Esc. I have a Futaba 3PKS and the brake power is assigned to the ATL dial (this is standard anyway). This way it is easy to adjust the rear brake on the fly with my thumb.
The rear wheel is one of the most important components to keep a bike running (rotating mass). So when you bring this to a halt with too much braking power the bike inevitably crashes.
I start off with a low brake setting slowly increasing the amount when braking the bike in a straight line. It should never lock up the rear wheel. It should only just start to slide. Thats about the maximum the rear brake can do to stop the bike.
But careful usually you brake the bike into the turns. If you hammer the brake at this setting and turn the bike the rear will loose grip and you crash. You will have to learn to slowly reduce the brake input through a turn. Try to find out how to fully apply the brake while going in a straight line and then slowly reduce the brake input through the turn.
It might not be the best way but I learnt this by first using full brakes. Reducing speed...Continue Reading
First the Stock bikes dont have a front brake so you have to rely on the brake of the Motor/Esc on the rear. Switch off any Reverse Gear *LOL*. Then Switch off any type of drag brake or anything that influences the rear wheel when you are in neutral. Start with the lowest brake setting on the Esc. I have a Futaba 3PKS and the brake power is assigned to the ATL dial (this is standard anyway). This way it is easy to adjust the rear brake on the fly with my thumb.
The rear wheel is one of the most important components to keep a bike running (rotating mass). So when you bring this to a halt with too much braking power the bike inevitably crashes.
I start off with a low brake setting slowly increasing the amount when braking the bike in a straight line. It should never lock up the rear wheel. It should only just start to slide. Thats about the maximum the rear brake can do to stop the bike.
But careful usually you brake the bike into the turns. If you hammer the brake at this setting and turn the bike the rear will loose grip and you crash. You will have to learn to slowly reduce the brake input through a turn. Try to find out how to fully apply the brake while going in a straight line and then slowly reduce the brake input through the turn.
It might not be the best way but I learnt this by first using full brakes. Reducing speed...Continue Reading
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Posted by edi.winter |
Feb 13, 2010 @ 04:41 AM | 8,959 Views
I saw a few questions about this in other threads and wrote the below as an answer.
High CG and driving on the crashbars :-| hmmmmm.... my english is crap so I bet things will be misunderstood, but I will try to list a few things I tought about when I designed my bike. You will have to draw the right conclusions yourself. I will try to keep this as simple as possible:
You always have to consider the following factors:
Overall weight.
Speed you are going at.
Curve radius.
CG position in relationship to the Wheelbase center.
CG Position off ground
Contact points of the tires to the surface
Contact point of the crashbars in relationship to the tire contact points.
Rules how a bike is supposed to look like.
You always have to know that there are two different driving situations in a curve: Only the tires have contact, the tires AND the crashbars have contact with the surface. These are two completely different driving dynamic situations! The fastest way to drive is when only the tires have contact.
The bike will always center the (dynamic) CG over the line you can draw between the contact spots the tires have to the suface. It will also always try to balance itself against the centrifugal forces in a turn. Or the other way round it will only drive if this is in balance ;-)
The higher the CG the more leverage the overall weight has under acceleration. This means the bike will wheelie easier.
High CG means that it is harder to flip the bike from one side to...Continue Reading
High CG and driving on the crashbars :-| hmmmmm.... my english is crap so I bet things will be misunderstood, but I will try to list a few things I tought about when I designed my bike. You will have to draw the right conclusions yourself. I will try to keep this as simple as possible:
You always have to consider the following factors:
Overall weight.
Speed you are going at.
Curve radius.
CG position in relationship to the Wheelbase center.
CG Position off ground
Contact points of the tires to the surface
Contact point of the crashbars in relationship to the tire contact points.
Rules how a bike is supposed to look like.
You always have to know that there are two different driving situations in a curve: Only the tires have contact, the tires AND the crashbars have contact with the surface. These are two completely different driving dynamic situations! The fastest way to drive is when only the tires have contact.
The bike will always center the (dynamic) CG over the line you can draw between the contact spots the tires have to the suface. It will also always try to balance itself against the centrifugal forces in a turn. Or the other way round it will only drive if this is in balance ;-)
The higher the CG the more leverage the overall weight has under acceleration. This means the bike will wheelie easier.
High CG means that it is harder to flip the bike from one side to...Continue Reading
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