In this hobby it is a very good Idea to protect you eyes. You WANT to spend a good amount of money on a really good brand of polarized sunglasses, Especially if you are into gliders/thermal soaring. Sure you can say that the 12 dollar fishing glasses you buy are polarized and work. I have a pair of them and also oakleys. On testing the fishing glasses after 2 hours of flying I can say that my eyes feel strained and tired. I did the same flying for 2hours the next weekend with the oakleys. The sky on both days were cloud free and very bright. With the oakleys It did a way better job of deflecting unwanted light. The Iridium coatings in them block out glare and raise contrast, they also block angles of light. so you can see your plane better. The clouds where light hits from them is even reflected(shows blue) at the specific area. I'm not a salesman for oakley but I really recommend them for safety and just better feeling eyes after the day. You only have 2 eyes after all..
+Dual lens Polaric Ellipsoid geometry (two lenses cut from single toric shield)
+Plutonite lens material blocks 100% of all UVA, UVB, UVC and harmful blue light
+Optional Iridium coatings and lens tints to reduce glare and heighten contrast
+XYZ Optics for maximized clarity at all angles of vision, even at lens periphery
+Exceeds ANSI Z87.1 standards for impact and optical requirements
Get the most out of your model. If you are skeptical about the airworthiness of your model why not give it a shake? This will help you see what could go wrong while in the air as well as if anything is moving around in the compartments that could throw off the CG or even moving wires on the outside that could cause drag. Take your model with the canopy on and grip the model so that it won't fall, but also support the structure. Move the model rapidly as you would expect to see it flying as it is making maneuvers in the air. Tip the model in on a horizontal plane as to pitch the nose up and down rapidly, do the same method while the model is upside and sideways. Do rolls loops etc, with it even if it is incapable of performing the tricks. If your model has a canopy, This will test if you have a good canopy latch also. You shouldn't feel anything sliding around or moving at all inside or outside of it. If you do notice movement of even the slightest try to secure the object down better with velcro, hot glue or straps. Be careful though stuffing it with too much latex foam or soft cloth like objects could cause some air flow problems around the electronics Doing these steps before a flight only raises the performance and fly-ability enjoyment you will have with your model from the air to landing.
I took a small white park flier out today to cruise around the evening skies. About 1/2 way through the 2nd battery I noticed 2 pigeons coming around harassing the plane. The odd thing is it's usually seagulls that come around.
Every single time i have flown birds have come around to check the aircraft out. Now when i'm flying in the country it's either a hawk or turkey vulture wanting to soar with me, which i dont mind. But I don't understand the whole pigeon thing unless they thought what i was flying was a white seagull. Today wasn't as bad as other days where I have had groups of them chasing the aircraft.
With the A9 updates decreasing there hasn't been 1 in close to a year, this gives me a time to program and get used to the transmitter and aircraft without the hastle of updating the rxs, module and tx. I now fly 3 E Gliders on Hitec A9, My favorite being the Multiplex Cularis. Eventually I may move into DLGs and when I have some more cash up to some soaringusa stuff. Can't beat the full house stuff!