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Steve_'s blog
Posted by Steve_ | Jul 29, 2014 @ 10:31 AM | 828 Views
Here is mine.

There are many detailed tutorials posted already, so I will just show the results.

The components were salvaged from scrap, and I even got lucky and found a high
efficiency diffused red LED that runs bright on 0.007 Amps.

You have to unscrew the antenna support to mount the LED. I think my drill bit
was 0.112".

The hole was "started" with a very sharp hobby knife, to ensure precise placement
and no damage to my beautiful case.

It cost some money to heat the soldering iron, and you have to consider the
cost of heat shrink tubing, flux and solder. (Probably around $0.05)

Posted by Steve_ | Jul 14, 2014 @ 12:53 PM | 1,175 Views
I got this one used at the LHS. It needed some TLC, but after replacing
four bearings, the tail shaft, and tail drive gear / pulley she is as smooth as silk.
The rotating assembly should allow for some nice auto's.

It's in the final stages of the pre-flight check list, and should maiden soon.

The current configuration includes the following upgrades:

Alloy head and tail assemblies
CF boom and main / tail blades
Metal gear cyclic servos Hitec HS-65MG (http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-65m...l#.U8QUvEDpiOE)
Digital coreless tail servo JR DS3400G (http://stores.aeromicro.com/jr-ds340...ni-tail-servo/)
Futaba GY-520 Gyro ( works awesome ) (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y520_gyro.html)
Blade 450 3D canopy and stabilizers (slightly bigger and easier to see)

Here are some pictures of the work in progress.
Posted by Steve_ | Oct 20, 2013 @ 02:38 PM | 2,856 Views
There have been so many questions about my 250 conversion, I decided
to document this build, so others can share my joy with this awesome bird.

HK250 FP Conversion Flying like a crazy person. (5 min 0 sec)

There are a million ways to build it, this is just how I did mine.

Much editing was done, so I probably repeat myself in places, so please forgive
me if I don't catch the mistakes.


Today we will shim the head to allow a mounting to the smaller 3.5mm 250 shaft.

The FX059 (E-1003) head is designed for a 4mm shaft, and requires a custom
made shim to fit properly.

Pictured are the things we need to start. ( 3rd picture )

A small hobby size pipe cutter can be substituted for the Dremel and cut-off wheel.

In a pinch, a saw with a fine tooth metal blade would work, but you would have to
clean up the edge, and you might bend the weak aluminum shim.

The super glue is so we can glue the shim inside the shaft, and the razor blade is so we
can score the shim, allowing small crevices for the glue to "grab".

Brass tubing would be stronger than aluminum, but I also used aluminum on my
larger 300x conversion and it works fine, even with the higher stresses and loads.

Aluminum is also much easier to drill, and lighter.

First, cut a piece of tubing about 40cm long. It will stick out the end of the head when inserted,
so we have something to grip, and the excess will get cut off later.

Take your razor blade...Continue Reading
Posted by Steve_ | Feb 28, 2013 @ 02:15 AM | 3,440 Views
Just pictures. You can figure it out from here.

Bearings are 2 x 5 x 2.5 mm.

You need a 5 mm drill bit to enlarge the bearing mount.

Shaft is 2 mm, and 35 mm long.

My CF shaft came from the canopy mount for a Honey Bee CP3.

The aluminum collar is a chopped up CP3 tail prop mount....Continue Reading