Posted by mnemennth |
Jul 17, 2014 @ 01:12 AM | 5,708 Views
There is an issue with the Multi-Port used in the Turnigy 9XR Pro, which I discovered when removing the main board to inspect my LCD.
The original 9XR had the Multi-Port housing made so that it pulls straight up away from the board for removal, allowing access to a screw underneath. The way my Pro is made the plastic molding traps the assembly under the power jack, and blocks access to one of the screw holes underneath. In the case of my TX, they omitted said screw in manufacture. I do not feel that 3 screws is adequate to retain the mainboard properly; the [EXIT] button is not firm as a result.
One has to remove the audio jack and disassemble the housing to remove it from the mainboard as it is; clearly this is not feasible with the board in the TX.
I've modded the Multi-Port Housing on my 9XR Pro to address this issue; details are shown below:
Once completed, the Multi-Port assembly will easily slide around the power jack and pull straight up off the board while assembled in the TX. This makes for easy access to that 4th screw.
Hope this helps a few folks get this issue sorted,
Hello out there.
I am really new to appreciating the racing community and I am finally ready to try and see what's out there. I would really like somebody's help though, If you're willing, about what is a good buy. I live in Southern California and the hobby shop that I've gone to are mostly helpful with very nice staff but I think I should try a forum like this to get multiple suggestions. Here's what I think I know:
–I would like to start with a 1/10 scale model because I hear that this is a standard size for racing.
–I do not want to buy an RTR because I want to be able to customize it, not just the chassis but possibly the motor, ESC, or L IPO battery. They're probably more parts but I don't know of.
–I would rather get a off-road car than only on road
If anybody could let me know that I have a basic understanding of what I'm going to look for that would be great. Also if you could suggest the brands that you have heard are really decent I would appreciate that. Thank you hope y'all are having a good day.
Another rover test ended when a motor fell off. Everything not threadlocked is being revealed when it falls off. Nothing was originally threadlocked because it wasn't supposed to work. It did 8m40s per mile when it worked. It was extremely hard to keep up. It flipped over twice on pavement cracks.
Accessing the offending bolt revealed all the sensors for the 1st time. The alignment is so critical that it didn't work when reassembled. Another sensor for the left motor had to be shifted ever so slightly closer. Fortunately, the error was a visible amount.
At 8.8V, with no headlights, the right motor now used 60mA more when going forward than when going backward, without load. Left motor used 20mA more when going forward.
At 15V, with no headlights, the no load current of a single motor was previously 250mA. The left motor was now 230mA going forward & 200mA going backward. The right motor was now 430mA going forward & 220mA going backward.
After reseating a bearing & another sensor reconfiguration, the right motor used 250mA going forward & 260mA going backward. This should have a significant impact on range. Another test run revealed it may now be too fast. So any direction problem is decidedly the mechanics rather than the sensors.
Well it's over a year on now and the Jazilla is still going strong. Had a couple of smack ups due to a POS UBEC and exceeding the VNE, but she's a pretty tough model to kill. I usually fly it out on the coast and at the club field, but sometimes in a local park that is generally deserted mid week.
On the positive side, the packs seem well made and have silicon insulation on the wires. they are also quite slim, at about 30mm high by 35mm wide, and are an easy fit under the E325s canopy on the Mini Titan when using the one-piece battery tray.
The packs have now done 200 cycles, yet despite me never using more than 1100mah, they seem to behave more like 1300mah packs than 1800mah ones. I keep a spreadsheet of pack data, so I can see that the resting voltage per cell after a flight has dropped from an initial 3.80v when new to 3.74v now, with the (balance) charger putting in around 1000mah after each flight. Using a data-logging ESC, I can see minimum voltages in flight as low as 3.23v per cell.
I bought NT 2650 packs for my 500, and those only have about 40 cycles on them. Again, despite never being over-discharged, the voltage per cell after 5 minutes of light aero at HS2250 is 3.75v. The charger puts back about 1500mah, so in reality the packs are behaving more like 2000mah rather than 2650mah.
I'm giving up on NT's for now, so I've just ordered some Gens Ace 1800mah 4s 25C packs for my Mini Titan. The Gens Ace packs are quite a bit fatter at 34mm x 30mm, though shorter than the NT's, but will fit on their side under the E325s canopy.
I believe the Nano Techs are deceptively labelled, with the capacity greatly overstated. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who's actually achieved the rated capacity from them, and what the per cell voltage is at 80% discharge of the rated capacity.
It was about time to buy a quadcopter that was durable enough for me to smash around playstructures yet cheap enough not to break the bank. The DRQ250 looked appealing because of its low price ($90) compared to other mini quads out there (blackout and BAH @ ~$150), plus the arms fold and the entire cage area is mounted on rubber anti vibration stands. Ordered a kit from readymaderc and began the build.
The build was straight forward, just needed to screw in all the bolts and solder the electronics on. One thing I did differently was take out the 2nd bolt that locks the arm in place. That way in a crash the arms will fold and take the impact rather than stay locked and have that energy spread to more expensive components.
Sunnysky X2204s 2300kv
Magic 12A ESC flashed with simonk
Gemfan 5030 props
3S 1550mah 3S Glacier lipo
DR4R-ii Frsky RX outputting CPPM
Flip 1.5 FC (going for APM 2.6 in the future)
RCX 1804 2300kv motor
Plush 10A ESC flashed with BLheli 11.2
3S 1300mah~1500mah lipo
5030 Gemfan props
AR6210 + satellite receiver (could be substituted with your reciever of choice)
Flip 1.5 FC
5.8ghz FPV system : homemade cloverleaf, 200mw TX module, powered by a 1S, camera is a keychain 16 (or mobius once it arrives in the mail)
Flying the quad is great, no bad habits (seems like all the mini quads fly the same regardless of frames). One thing is that this quad is a bit noisier than my previous quad (the 3d...Continue Reading
Please, send your comments in to http://www.regulations.gov/ before the deadline - Friday, July 25, 2014 @ 11:59 PM Eastern Standard Time.
The following are the comments I sent today. This was sent as 2 posts since the entire document exceeded the 5000 spaces allowed per post. If you want to, feel free to use any of my thoughts for your own submittal.
I do not understand how it is that the FAA can make rules citing a section of funding regulation that specifically orders the FAA not to make such rules.
Public Law 112–95, Section 336, paragraph a:
"the Administrator of the Federal Aviation Administration may not promulgate any rule or regulation regarding a model aircraft, or an aircraft being developed as a model aircraft"
Section 336's title is "Special Rule For Model Aircraft." In the context of the Act, this is a special rule for the FAA to follow, not the general public. The general public is to fly model aircraft "in accordance with a community based set of safety guidelines and within the programming of a nationwide community-based organization" (Section 336, paragraph a, number 2). The community based organization that is most notably recognized for the safe, legal operation of model aircraft in the US is the Academy of Model Aeronautics. None of the rules the FAA has forced upon the model aviation community in FAA-2014-0396 are found in the AMA's safety...Continue Reading
This mini motor is suitable for 200-230 frame (multicopter). High quality NMB bearings are selected together with imported copper. because we know the accuracy is very important for mini motor and we mean to make quality motor. It is priced to sell low to beat our competitors. It is the same class compared to MT1306 but in much affordable pricing (why pay more? while you can pay less).