HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Posted by mnemennth | Today @ 12:53 AM | 110 Views
TURNIGY REAKTOR 300W x 2 HACKAGE - GET YOUR SERIAL DATA & TEMP SENSORS BACK!




One of the best ideas the folks at HobbyKing EVER had was to hook up with the folks at Junsi and start selling their world famous iCharger line of products. Even BETTER was taking the awesome iCharger 206B and stuffing it in an extruded aluminum box with one of its brothers; this is how the Turnigy Reaktor 300W x 2 was born.

Unfortunately, at the same time, they decided to eliminate TEMP SENSOR input and the USB port for Serial Data out to your PC. I'm not sure why; maybe it was due to space restrictions, maybe they didn't want to do support for those functions. But... they're gone.



Well, not entirely. The temp sensor circuit is still there; it's just lurking inside the box. They even left the plug-in header!


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Posted by FeWolf | Today @ 12:11 AM | 116 Views
some planes planning to buid
Posted by Kmot | Yesterday @ 11:26 PM | 156 Views
Threw some paint on my Yuneec Q500 Typhoon quadcopter. And some APC props too,
Posted by ctzsnooze | Yesterday @ 11:22 PM | 168 Views
Have you ever 'reset' your flight controller in the GUI? If so, you get the default values stored in the EEPROM file. This can be useful if you think that you've stuffed something up. The downside is that you will lose your switch settings and must remember to restore them.

Wouldn't it be great to store your working PID settings and switch values in your sketch, so the whole lot can be restored anytime?

One way is to archive your original sketch, and then customise the EEPROM.cpp file in your working sketch with your current optimised PIDs and switch settings.

Doing the PIDs is easy. There are obvious places to write them. Storing default switch positions is more difficult.

Both go in EEPROM.cpp, so open it in Arduino, and scroll down to the section where the PIDs are stored.

Edit the PID values and your favourite RC rate and expo values; it's fairly obvious where, I use PID controller 1 so change the lines under #if PID_CONTROLLER == 1 to your preferred values.

To set your default RC rate to 1.40, RC expo to .5, RollPitch Rate to 0.65, Yaw rate to 0.4 and TPA to 013, edit the following lines so they look like this:

Quote:
conf.rcRate8 = 140; conf.rcExpo8 = 50; // general flying near centre
conf.rollPitchRate = 65; // flip rate
conf.yawRate = 40; // yaw rate
conf.dynThrPID = 13;
The above values are my favourites for most of my acro style quads! :-)

Finally, here's how to set the default switch...Continue Reading
Posted by ctzsnooze | Yesterday @ 11:06 PM | 164 Views
For MotoWii owners, its not too difficult to use the VBAT code show in my other blog posts to make FET driven LED's on your WarpQuad flash when the battery gets low.

The LED's need to be driven from a FET as per the circuits in my earlier blog posts, with the gate of the FET connecting to the normal LED high side. I use the simple code.

This postshows how to add LED's, where to put the voltage divider and the FET. Look closely at how I soldered two SMD resistors to make the voltage divider, then joined them to pin A3 on the CPU. Soldering the fine wire to the CPU is difficult, the wire must be very fine, and you need a lot of flux paste. Take care!

If your voltage divider is 22k to 4.7k (positive to negative), then the following values in config.h will get your LED's flashing around 3.5V, accurately and reliably:

#define VBAT // uncomment this line to activate the vbat code
#define VBATSCALE 57 // (*) (**) change this value if readed Battery voltage is different than real voltage
#define VBATNOMINAL 13 // 12,6V full battery nominal voltage - only used for lcd.telemetry
#define VBATLEVEL_WARN1 105 // (*) (**) 10,7V
#define VBATLEVEL_WARN2 102 // (*) (**) 9.9V
#define VBATLEVEL_CRIT 100 // (*) (**) 9.3V - critical condition: if vbat ever goes below this value, permanent alarm is triggered
#define NO_VBAT 4 // Avoid beeping without any battery

To fine-tune the voltage at which flashing occurs, change the VBatScale value in the GUI, only one step at a time, then fly again. Keep fiddling until it warns you at the time you want it to.

Note that this is a 'whole battery' monitor, so if one cell is lower than one of the others, you may not know. Always err on the high side!

Cheers - C
Posted by Howeroll | Yesterday @ 10:30 PM | 251 Views
New product from Rakon Heli for the Blade Nano QX/FPV.

Rakon Heli Blade Nano QX / FPV Upgrade Frame nQX980 (3 min 20 sec)


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Posted by ctzsnooze | Yesterday @ 10:28 PM | 238 Views
If you enable one of my VBat monitoring techniques for the AlienWii brushed flight controller, and probably for most other 1S Atmel 32U8 based flight controllers, these values in config.h should get the LED flashing WARN1 at around 3.5 V:

Quote:
#define VBATSCALE 60 // (*) (**) change this value if readed Battery voltage is different than real voltage
#define VBATNOMINAL 42 // 4.2V full battery nominal voltage - only used for lcd.telemetry
#define VBATLEVEL_WARN1 36 // 3.6V - low priority alrm
#define VBATLEVEL_WARN2 34 // 3.4V - medium alarm
#define VBATLEVEL_CRIT 32 // 3.2V - critical alarm; all are transient
#define NO_VBAT 16 // Avoid beeping without any battery
#define VBAT_OFFSET 0 // offset in 0.1Volts, gets added to voltage value - useful for zener diodes
After each flight, check the residual cell voltage (which will be higher than the set-point, from recovery of the battery), and also check how much capacity goes back in. To fine-tune the alarm point, adjust the VBATSCALE value up or down by 1-2 steps at a time, then go fly. After a while you'll have it flashing at just the right time for your flying style.

Please keep the following notes in mind:

With 1S batteries the measurement isn't precise. This is because the comparator inside the Atmel chip can't measure low voltages very accurately, because the comparator inside loses reference voltage as well.

It's...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Yesterday @ 09:21 PM | 254 Views
In my previous write-up, I discussed converting a 450 Pro boom mount to a belted drive pulley. While the belted 450 Pro boom mount turned out fairly well, I mentioned being unsure about how close the belt passes by the interior hole through the boom mount, and also how tight the belt is with the stock boom. I mentioned clearancing some material from the hole through the boom mount, and also shaving about 1.0mm off the front of the boom to loosen up the belt just a bit.

After thinking about these issues for a while, I came to the conclusion that I didn't want to shave the boom because I would have to carefully shave every new boom I use later--sounds like a pain to customize parts after every crash. As for the spacing between the belt and the interior of the hole of the boom mount, I decided that I had better clearance some of the material in the boom mount that formerly held the torque tube (TT) bearings in place.

As shown in Fig. 1, there is a protrusion within the boom mount designed to prevent the boom, and the tail, from rotating within the boom mount. I decided that I wanted to leave the protrusion in place, otherwise I would have to pin the boom, which would make adjusting the belt tension quite a chore. I started out using various files to carefully widen the areas within the hole in the boom mount where the belt passes closest, but also preserving the protrusion that keeps the tail from rotating within the boom mount. As shown in Fig. 2, using files to...Continue Reading
Posted by Giaco | Yesterday @ 08:47 PM | 337 Views
This is my first scratch built model, scaled to match the Hobbyking Redhead Pulsejet. I decided to make it a hybrid build, using the scaled balsa plans as the template for foam cutting the fuselage sections. The plan is to use several coats of epoxy or minwax on the foam to create a hard shell over the foam for painting and...Continue Reading
Posted by fhpe77 | Yesterday @ 08:22 PM | 340 Views
Who knew that gluing some wing sections together would have been so involved? It also helps if your plans have the correct dimensions. So I started constructing the sections in accordance with the dimensions shown on the plan. I thought I'd be slick and build the correct half angles into each section so they'd go together perfectly. After completing the wing center sections and the left wing tip it started to become apparent that something was wrong. The tip angle appeared to be too extreme. After much debate and analysis it was looking like the wing angles were not scaled properly, if at all. I confirmed this by emailing Jim O'Reilly, the guy that drew and scaled these particular plans. It turns out that he missed scaling these dimensions and thus they were greater than they needed to be. Fortunately I was able to modify the left wing tip for the correct angle and construct the right wing tip so it was correct from the start.

The next hurdle was the wing joiners. The laser cut ones provided in the kit did not match the plans and would not contact the upper and lower spars equally. I simply cut some new ones from 1/16" plywood that matched the plans.

From here it was pretty much straight forward. I joined the wing sections with 30 minute epoxy, using various sizes of binder clips as clamps. Plywood and balsa scraps were used to spread the clamping load in some critical areas.

I'm also not real happy with laser cut fuselage forward bulkhead and firewall. They seem a bit small. I've started the re-engineering process by measuring my fuselage and drawing it in CAD. From here I plan to generate some 1:1 scale paper templates that can be easily transferred to some plywood. I'm still working this out so we'll see...
Posted by ezub | Yesterday @ 07:58 PM | 324 Views
Selling my zenmuse z15 3 axis gimbal for sony NEX7 its in good condition was used as a back up gimbal on our DJIs800. in the box with all spare parts and adaptors needed. Asking $1500
Posted by Banzee | Yesterday @ 06:57 PM | 414 Views
I received some floating kit for my apprentice so i give them a try , and i put my camera on the plane . But the only problem , i didn't choose my day , a lot of wind and gust that day give me a little bit of challenge , but i fly my plane a nd had some fun !! Enjoy !


Eflite Apprentice S 15e With Float set on snow Flight 2015-02-28 (3 min 28 sec)

Posted by m0ke | Yesterday @ 06:51 PM | 403 Views
its pretty quick, but needs some more tuning
5s raw uncut flight -- MB Epic mini 280 - fpv - gopro (4 min 27 sec)

Posted by The RC Addict | Yesterday @ 06:34 PM | 415 Views
Speed compairison between the worlds smallest quadcopters!
Purchase here:
CX-10A:
http://www.banggood.com/Cheerson-CX-...834856201501DY
CX-10:
http://www.banggood.com/Cheerson-CX1...834856201501DY

CX-10 VS CX-10A Speed Test (4 min 11 sec)

Posted by Edge767 | Yesterday @ 06:33 PM | 432 Views
So, I couldn't leave well enough alone. I decided to add more mottling to the camouflage (which is correct/proper) as well as some weathering with exhaust stains and gun smoke stains. I also painted the nose cone/spinner the right color. The last thing I will have to do is get Callie to make me the squadron sticker I can put on the nose of the plane. I still can't believe this is all Valspar latex!!!

Here is how the plane looks now. I'm very pleased with the results!





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Posted by brett1984 | Yesterday @ 05:10 PM | 489 Views
just a few images of an upcoming design a boeing 747-400 for edf or pusher.

1000mm span.

construction form 3mm & 6mm depron and balsa wingspars.