RC Groups - Submarines

New Product D&E German 212 1:96 scale instructions & plans

kazzer — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:55:31 GMT

Discussion Has anyone built the 1906 U-1?

cargomaster — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:47:56 GMT

Hi, I am just curious if anyone has built the 1906 U-1. I was just googling random stuff when I came across a picture of it. I thought it would be cool to see if anyone had made it.

Discussion The D&E 3.5/2 Sub-driver Kit Assembly Instructions

kazzer — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:23:30 GMT

Here is a short video showing the details of this kit, and how to install the various components. Special emphasis on the drilling of cylinder holes.

The D&E 3.5/2 Sub-driver Assembly (9 min 44 sec)

Discussion Fleet pictures

spongjim — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 08:37:33 GMT

I got asked today how many subs and ships do I own? Now I got a question at what number does this go way past a hobby and into something
else?
Lets see some fleet pictures,how many do you have?

Jim

Help! 32nd parallel Ohio class boat

subsinker — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 02:31:36 GMT

Guys,

I am looking for anyone that may have plans for a 32nd Parallel Ohio class boat. I bought one (used and put together poorly) and in the process of stripping and rebuilding it. However, the way the previous owner put it together makes little sense. I thought if anyone had plans, instructions anything on this boat I would gladly purchase them or pay to have them reproduced.

As far as I understand, it is the deluxe kit. It does have the WTC and appears to be submerged by a positive dispalcement pump, compressing air with water. Not unlike Chris Clokes system except it has two ballast tanks, one at the stern and one close to the bow. Other than that, I am still trying to figure it all out. I just don't want to get frustrated and sell the whole blooming thing without having a go at it.

It's a shame that company stopped producing boats, they really do make nice kits.

Thanks!
Pete

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Discussion Lifespan of electronics

BrittB — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:24:01 GMT

I had heard somewhere that some electronic componets had a limited lifespan. The ones I'm refering to are SubTech's APC-3 and ADC units and are around ten years old. Anyone know for sure?

Britt

Discussion Launching a sub

Bill Harris — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 14:50:30 GMT

Referring over to this thread:

"How Not To Launch A Large sailing Ship"

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1139721

Not having a local Submarine group and getting only glimpses of launching the subs from images of various Sub Regattas I don't have a clear procedure set up in in my mind. I've seen motorized broadside launch cradles at organized sub floats, but for myself, in many instances, I'll be going out solo or with a couple of friends to a local lake, no seawall, and maybe with a boat pier. I can see hip waders, very carefully getting into the water and transferring the sub from the bank to the water. Or, on a pier, possibly some sort of cradle with lifting straps where you could lift the boat from the pier and set in in the water, and vice versa.

Two sizes of subs: the smaller a 1:144, 30" long conversion weighing, what, 10 pounds??. The larger scale, a 1:72, 60" long 'glas hull, weighing 40 pounds?? or so. What should these two sizes be expected to weigh? What is a maximum size/weight that can be handled by one person, solo or with onlooker friends.

Thanks,

--Bill

Help! How do you make a Hatch

coolbudz223 — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:49:56 GMT

I am planning on building a submarine like vehicle
and am wondering how I can make a hatch that
I can open and close which will allow me to access
electronics in the sub. Any Ideas?

Discussion Tiny motors

POLARISDAVE — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 17:45:35 GMT

im looking for small motors about the same diameter as a AA battery I want to try to make torps with motors but so far cant find motors small enough

Discussion RC Submarine Model with Metal Hull?

amsci99 — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 16:45:23 GMT

Hi,

Does anyone know of any scratchbuilt RC Submarine Model with brass or metal used in the construction of the hull? I recall seeing one in an issue of the Subcommittee Report from 90s, it was a static model though, a Gato class submarine using brass in its' construction.

Discussion WTC Piston Tanks/Motors

jaguar75 — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 21:01:09 GMT

I will go with the type III with PTFE for my aluminum parts.
I am designing my wtc with two aluminum 1,000ml piston tanks sized the same diameter as the 4"O.D. ploycarbonate pipe.The aluminum piston tank end-plugs will be machined with bajonet rings to attach the polycarb pipe on each end so the wtc will have clear polycarb in between the tanks and on each end of the wtc.You are probably asking how the motors will fit inside the piston tank diameter.I have sourced out a hollow shaft brushless motors that can drive any sort of threaded rod and has position,speed,reverse and forward sensing built into the motor.The motor is only 2-1/4" in diameter x 2-1/2" length and weighs 7oz. The voltage input is 5vdc-24vdc.The hollow shaft can be up to 3/4" in diameter and it has allen set screws for mounting your size of threaded coupling for rotating the threaded piston rod.

Discussion My 1/72 Revell build - Gato Class USS Cobia

Steve2381 — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:08:04 GMT

Hello everyone.

I am new to radio control subs. So I thought I would start a thread on my build from the start.

I got hold of a Revell 1/72 scale Sub kit on the cheap. I have decided to make it a static diver and I am planning to build as much from scratch as I can.
I know it would be easier to buy the WTC already built, but I like the challenge!

Spent a few evenings researching the USS Cobia. The sub the kit is 'loosely' based upon.

I have not decided whether to cut the hull in half to have full tub diameter available (really don't fancy that approach), or just to cut the top open and have narrower access.
The top access option is much less work, but may lead to problems getting enough ballast tank inside.

I have spent the afternoon re-shaping the bow torpedo doors into the square 'Balao' type doors and opening them up.
The spoon moulded kit torpedo doors are not correct for the Cobia.
They will open and close on a servo and space allowing... fire.
I am currently part way through fabricating a bow torpedo tube framework.

Anyone know any information on the rear torpedo tubes?

I am going to use as much of the kit as I possibly can. I would love to build a lovely set of etched brass decks but you can seriously batter some cash when you start doing that.

Going to cram as much 'working' equipment and features as I can on this sub, so that is why my ballast tank will need to be a pretty good size.
I basically going for as big as possible, and then dialling it in later.

Does anyone know how she ran? I am assuming the 4x diesel engines ran when she was on the surface and these ran the generators which charged a battery bank.
Then she ran on batteries when submerged.

Should keep me busy for a while!
Steve

Discussion Model Submarine hardware

expfcwintergreen — Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:42:34 GMT

For the newbies...
Where do most people get their screws, bearings, etc? I usually go to McMaster and have them the next day. Very competitive pricing as well, for example, Oilite bearings in the 50-60 cent range. Not too shabby!

Discussion Aluminum or Brass End Plugs ?

jaguar75 — Fri, 30 Oct 2009 19:22:01 GMT

As you may already know,aluminum prices have crashed very hard.
I can buy 4" round 6160 aluminum for only $6.16 per 1-1/8" but it would need to be anodized for use in chlorinated swimming pools,which I will be submerging into an Olympic size public pool.
I can also buy 4" round 360 brass but it is $36.00 per 1-1/8" and is far superior to anodized aluminum for corrosion resistance.It is three times the weight but not that much.I like the idea of easier repair with brazing brass and the longivity.
I'm not comparing this with plastic,I'm using metal, and I am machining the end plugs myself, so what are your opinions.:confused:
_________________
John

Discussion How much does water pressure increase per vertical foot?

jaguar75 — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:30:40 GMT

Fresh water: 0.43 psi per foot Sea water: 0.44 psi per foot.

So, for each additional 10 feet of depth, figure about 4.3 to 4.4 psi increase in pressure.

You can calculate this yourself by using the fact that fresh water weighs about 62.4 pounds per cubic foot (pcf) and sea water weighs about 64 pcf. Divide those numbers by 144 (the "footprint" of one cubic foot, 12 x 12) and there you go.

It's interesting to note that this pressure is independent of volume or expanse. i.e. the water pressure behind a fresh water dam at 100 feet deep is about 43.3 psi regardless of whether the dam's reservoir is 25 miles long or 10 feet long. Depth and density are the only relevant parameters needed to determine pressure.

Dive pressure, however, would be the water pressure of 43.3 plus the air pressure above the water. So the net pressure on your ears & body would be 43.3 plus 14.7 (one atmosphere)totalling 58 psi,or about 4 atmosphers. That's four times our normal experience. Worthy of careful consideration.

What are the pros/cons of the Robbe/Futaba Navy-14 radio ?

jaguar75 — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 01:41:10 GMT

What are the pros/cons of the Robbe/Futaba Navy-14 radio ?

Discussion Sombra Labs SL-8 Radio Receiver

alligator — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:46:14 GMT

Does anyone have any recent info regarding Sombra labs maker of the (SL-8 Radio receiver), Specifically, Is the company still in business? Pros/Cons on this particular receiver from anyone using them. Reliability or other issues? Unable to contact the company personally. Thanks,

Discussion [B]Flying Sub from voyage to the bottom of the sea[/B]

AlbertChia — Sun, 25 Oct 2009 04:47:50 GMT

Hi I just bought a Flying Sub from Moebius, and looking at it I think it can be converted into operational work piece. Has anybody done one before and would like to share some information on how to do it.

Sorry, forgot to attach the photos of sub.

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Discussion WTC Materials/Plugs

jaguar75 — Sat, 24 Oct 2009 19:31:00 GMT

I just received my www.harvel.com free sample of the 4.5" O.D. clear pvc schedule 80 pipe.The wall thickness is 3/8" thick but the inside diameter is too irregular to consider having the o-ring plug do an precision job of sealing.It is also very heavy and not as optically clear as hoped to be.I use thousands of feet of 2" schedule 80 pvc pipe in my business but that pipe is much easier to extrude at a closer tolerance because the soft pipe exiting the extruder dies cools off much faster and keeps it's round shape.The only pipe that can be obtained other than polycarb,at great cost,is cast acrylic for precision wall thickness.
I have decided to use 4" O.D. x 3.75" I.D. polycabonate in place of the knuckle dragging pvc pipe.This means that the inside threaded pipe and screw plug design are just a pipe dream and not possible with the 1/8" wall thickness of the polycarb pipe.I will still machine the aluminum plugs but will not have threads.The plugs will have 3 o-ring grooves on the wall surface and 1 o-ring under the plug shoulder to seat up against the end edge of the pipe.Professionalplastics.com has the 4" polycarb for $12.95 @ft. in 8' minum lengths.This is the lowest price out there that I have found.