Herr 1/2A P 51 build/ conversion (maiden complete) (back to glow)

[commrad]

OK, here is my build/ electric conversion of the Herr/Sig P51 1/2A

What's in the box. As with all kits, a bunch of wood that seems to be high quality. I found 1 bad spot in the entire kit and it was used on a cut out sheet that omitted it from any of the parts. That tells me that a person actually look at the wood before they cut it.

The included canopy is SO clear it would all most be suitable to mount a FPV camera inside it. I could read the on screen guide of my tv 20 feet away through it.

[commrad]

The first thing to do is to identify all the laser cut part which was a tedious job, not because they were hard to find but because they were cut so well they wanted to fall out of the sheet.

Next was to assemble the fuse sides which was straight forward enough and the fit was second to none. I used the wing mount dowels as alignment pins to make sure the poplar reinforcements were in correctly. Be sure that you build a right and a left side, the reinforcements go on the inside.

[commrad]

Up next was to install the fuse formers, once again very straight forward and did not require the parts to be built over the plans all though one step did instruct you to do so. I found that is was not required as all the parts fit So well the prints have only been used to identify the locations of formers.


I omitted installing the formers for the nose section at this time, my better half is asleep and my motors are in the bed room so that will most likely be the last thing before covering the model.

[commrad]

Next up was the top formers, once again, straight forward, easy fitting.

[commrad]

Since I had never sheeted the top of a fuse before this was a new experience for me but I was pleased with the results.

[commrad]

All covered in light weight spackling waiting to dry and be sanded.

[commrad]

Next up was one of the wing panels. everything went to pretty smoothly other than my CA bottle clogging a couple of times.

I did run into one problem right off the bat. the instructions say to glue the ply doubler 3a and 4a to ribs 3 and 4. the one labels are W-5A on the part lay out is suppose to be W-3A. (I later found the addendum in the bottom of the box)

after that was sorted out the wing went together nicely.

[SkyCobra]

Commrad,

Thanks for the build thread, looks nice. My kit keeps saying "pick me" as I walk by. "Soon" I say.

[commrad]

So far it's been a rewarding kit. My better half took this week off work and it's the week I only work 2 out of 7 days so there will most likely be nothing done this week and next week it's back to working every day. I'm going to go with the same finish scheme they used for the photo but it will be based in orange and tiger striped with a med purple. I know that sounds kind weird but it should be pretty bright.

Got the wings joined and test fitted. in the photo you can see the remains of my glassed GWS 51 (exploded in mid air, it use to be fast) and my yet to maiden CMP P51 which is waiting on me to finish the tail wheel doors and a couple of other small things (I ditched the small stock wheels and went with Robart 2 3/4 scale tires)

I know this is an electric conversion thread but I'm all so ordering a TT .07 for later use or a diff model. I'm at a point where it is going to be a major investment to continue on the electric road and I could spend that cash on airframes.

[sneasle]

I'm at a point where it is going to be a major investment to continue on the electric road and I could spend that cash on airframes.


How so?

[Deaol]

Watching this thread, I did a electro conversion on herr's AT6 1/2A, was very pleased with the final results, actually performs as well or even better (imo) than the exact plane with a .061 power plant.

[Deaol]

How so?

I was just about to say the same, all in all with the motor/esc/servos/misc hardware and wiring plus 2 batteries I was only $150 in the hole... est figure. And that's Canadian funds :rolleyes:

[commrad]

I'm down to 1 lipo, I had a couple puff and lost one when my richmodels zero went down literally in flames (well after the crash).

it was the first flight out with independent aileron servos and flaps (the flaps worked great, I have pics if anyone is interested). I was so caught up in how great the thing was flying i did one of the most stupid things i could have done. flew it straight into the sun, total white out the oh there it is crap it's going straight down 10 feet above the trees BAMMMM. it crashed in my yard by the time i walked the 150 or so yards it was smoking then POOOOF, flames. my charger only does 2-3 cell so i'm gona have to have a new charger so I can go 4 cell (if i stay in the e world, which I want to) more lipos. ahhh it's a never ending cycle lol.

I got the tail on the build and it's getting closer to covering, I'll post pics tomorrow.

[commrad]

wow 6 votes in the poll lol. 50-50. guess I'll make it a hybrid lol.

[sneasle]

HobbyCity is your friend.

Yes, the quality is not what ThunderPower might give you, but the prices are right, the performance is good, and I get lots of bang for my buck.

[commrad]

HobbyCity is your friend.

Yes, the quality is not what ThunderPower might give you, but the prices are right, the performance is good, and I get lots of bang for my buck.

just got a box from em today ;) bought one of their tachs and some of those replacement screws that are hard to find locally because of their small size. i was very surprised to find these a lot higher quality than the ones all ways included with kit, they don't strip as soon as you look at em.

the motor I will be using came from there KDA 22-20L. bought 2 and have been really happy with em.

my air frame weighs 10oz right now, no control surfaces covering or electronics.

[sneasle]

There ya go.

I'm trying to stay in the smaller sized planes, .40 and less. I have some larger ones, but those will be glow. If you stay .40 and under, the motors and batteries are relatively cheap. Heck, the batteries for my 40" foamies are only $10.

[commrad]

Got the tail on, cockpit rails, radiator scoop and aileron controls installed.

[Carnifax]

Looking good so far. I have an almost finished Herr P-51 that I built a few years back and simply shelved away. I built it for gas but now that electrics are here and getting cheaper, I think I will switch over to the Tesla Coil.

I am scratching my head too for a power plant. I think the motor you mentioned KDA-22-20L is on a par with the Eflite Park 450/480. It is 1020 kv so its more torque/thrust over top end. Also, check your clearance, it specs a prop at 9-11" diameter. Make sure your not scraping the ground rolling out. :eek:

I have an old Hacker that has been longing for a home. If not that I think its time to go shopping at HobbyCity.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Dan

[commrad]

I have the next two days off and will try to finish or get close to it. I have a brand new TT 07 just waiting to sit in it's box because it looks like the electrics have it :D (which I'm very glad to hear). the TT looks nice and the 30 seconds I got it to run it sounded great, VERY quiet but so far I have to say it is the BIGGEST POS I have ever owned. 30 minutes and an electric starter got me 30 seconds of run time and yes I know engines. I'm gona try again before I go to bed but if anything other than the box this thing will reside on a gws foamy and currently I feel that would be an insult to the flying beer cooler.

seems the TT has some machining issues in the cylinder. too much taper, it's WAY too tight at the top (before you even open your mouth I know they are suppose to be tight, I've owned countless ABC/ABN engines so don't even start) and WAY too loose at the bottom, there is so much blow by the crank case literally fills with oil (no alcohol or nitro, just oil from blow by until it basically drowns it's self. yes I know how to tune engines, I think about 17 years should be enough exp. so once again don't start, I know what I'm doing, I don't need a 16 year old kid that has owned one engine telling me what I'm doing wrong.

[Carnifax]

Commrad,

Good luck with the TT. As much as I like electrics, there really is nothing like the roar of nitro. SOunds like you have the problem pinpointed at least. What is your solution?

I know the Norvels were always really tight especially before break in.

Good luck and post your results.

Dan

[commrad]

my solution? tinker with it till I give up on it completely then throw it in the lake, buy another E motor and say to hell with small engines since norvel and cox are no longer a main stay.

[Carnifax]

Hahaha,

I know EXACTLT what your talking about. My first plane "back" into RC was a small foam Cox Cessna with a .049. The thing would not fly for anything but at leats got me hooked. Thne I saw a guy with a fixed throttle Norvel on a Herr P-51. That thing just screamed plus he really had the thumbs for it. Just enough to get me hooked. After awhile, I just got frustrated with the Nitro engines, starting them on cold days, etc.

[commrad]

finally got some time to work a little on the skeleton. The small size of the bird made the upper portion of the wings some what difficult (for me anyway) to cover. I'm not very good at covering, never have been and prob never will be. I really like the shade of orange but it looks a lot lighter in the pics here.

Yes yes I know, the house is a wreck, got love having kids around. it drives me crazy, any one want a couple of boys? you pay shipping, continental US only. JK

[commrad]

Started on the stripes. Can't decide if I like them or not.

Oh yeah, it's not finished yet, I just could not stare at a skeleton anymore I had to cover something. I still have to shape the wing tips, install all the control surfaces, carve the bottom from the LE to the nose from a solid block of balsa and last but not least by any means, cover up that gaping hole where the glow engine would have been.

At this point I'm kinda torn, purple fuse with orange stripes or keep it orange with purple. I wish I had did the bottom of the wing in white. I'm starting to wonder about orientation issues due to the size of this thing.

[Mike1484]

I'm watching this build , I have this plane also . I had the Cherokee and it flew very nice on a Big Mig .061 R/C . That motor was a pain to break in and had to be heated( the head and cylinder ) with a torch to get it started . I had it mounted on a test stand and ran about a quart of fuel through it before i could mount it in a plane . I wouldn't use a starter on it but it cost me about a pint of blood before we became friends . It's a great motor now and a joy to use . I'm thinking electric on my P-51 but it may be awhile before I start it . Your plane is looking awsome , I like the orange and tiger stripes .

Mike 1484

[commrad]

I tried mounting the engine upside down and low and behold, it sputtered to life on the first flip with only the fuel in the case. This thing may have a home after all BUT not on this bird. It may actually make it on a foamy after all.

[commrad]

I came home from work this morning and though, hum, I got a few minutes before I go to bed I'll frustrate myself with this stupid little engine. 1 drop of fuel in the carb (more like a half drop) flip flip sputter. open the high speed needle, flip flip nothing, one more drop flip sputter. did this a few minutes before thinking hum, not fast enough. slapped the prop and away she went (very lean) fooled around with it till I got right at 12500 with a APC 6.3x4 combat prop and a HEAVY 2" Dubro spinner. yeah I know it's bigger than the recommended break in prop. Now that the top is getting a little looser the large gap at the bottom of the stroke that was allowing all the blow by does not seem nearly as bad, maybe since it was WAY to tight at the top (literally had to use pliers to turn it over about 15 times before I could turn it over by hand) it was making more compression than the fuel/oil could contain in the wall gap.

Now I just gota figure out what to do with it lol.

[sneasle]

There aren't as many planes for .15's anymore.. which is a shame cause I think they are one of those perfect displacements.. like .40s..

[commrad]

Finally found some time to work on the bird. it's getting close enough to start giving me that itch but it's still only about 30% there.

I decided not to use the solid balsa block to do the bottom of the nose area and skip all the carving so I sheeted it like the turtle and forward decks 1: it's lighter 2: i use a paved strip so nose overs are so rare the strength isn't needed in that area 3: my battery will be mounted in a tray not a fuel tank sitting on the bottom of the fuse.

oops, forgot to move my gf's smokes lol

[commrad]

I didn't pick up the instructions and don't feel like looking right now but I sheeted the scoop, not sure if it's suppose to be but I did it anyway.

[commrad]

throwing a little color on the fuse.

[Carnifax]

That thing is starting to look fast.

[sneasle]

just a little.

To be honest, I've never liked the tiger stripped scheme, more of a blue nose with invasions stripes kind of guy.

[commrad]

I'm with ya sneasle but I can't make myself put a realistic scheme on some this stand (way) off scale. I would never say anything to a modeler who does a realistic scheme on a way off scale plane it just kinda gripes my nerves. I feel like it's an insult to the guys who died on foreign soil or over it. I just look at things a little more personally than most. I have my reasons. Once I get my CMP P51's maiden out of the way it is getting a much needed face lift.

[commrad]

I just did some weight checking and if all electronics are mounted at the CG it will take 3.5oz in the nose to balance the plane. pretty easy to see was intended for the slightly larger end of the recommended glow power plant and around 2oz of fuel.

[sneasle]

Well, the specific scheme that comes from is from an old stang that ran on the Reno circuit, not an actual fighter livery.

This is a nice pic of it:
http://www.military.cz/usa/air/war/fighter/p51/p51_afttoff.jpg
http://www.mustangsmustangs.com/p-51/p51pics/wallpapers/P-51/H.P-51.jpg

Also consider this:

http://www.warbirdalley.com/images/P-51D_BUD_8-18_BY_JACK_2.jpg

[sneasle]

I just did some weight checking and if all electronics are mounted at the CG it will take 3.5oz in the nose to balance the plane. pretty easy to see was intended for the slightly larger end of the recommended glow power plant and around 2oz of fuel.


Yup.

I built the 1/2a P-51 from HOB a few years back. Built it with a os .15la on the front. It ended up a tad bit heavy, but it flew ok.. when the engine would run..

The build called for the engine to be mounted inverted and I could not get the damn thing to run for an extended period of time without it flooding. I think the fuel tank location is to blame.

I plan on putting a 22-20L on it at some point. Hopefully it works out and balances well. I'll probably have to hog out the fuel tank area to move the battery forward, but I can deal with that.

[commrad]

those look great but in my old age blue it's pretty hard for me to see lol. perfect vision thanks to lasic but I'm still getting old and some colors are getting harder to see at a distance.

[sneasle]

Go with purple or red in the same scheme. I have a side view from my HOB kit that I scanned into paint and went in and filled the panel lines in with a few different colors.

Blue, Red, and Purple all look good.

[commrad]

Not much to say about it, more monokote. control surfaces are going to either be white or matching purple. most likely white so the purple stripes are still visible. I' not sure that I'll have enough orange to do em so they will be diff for now. maybe just white ailerons.

[commrad]

More covering

I will NEVER buy Tower kote again as long as I live. the fuse would not be so plain if Tower kote was a better covering, it's ok for structure but it SUX for trim work.

[sneasle]

I've never really had a problem with it. Windex works well with it.

[commrad]

my problem with it is the glue, I can actually cut about a mm into the balsa and the glue does not separate, it i simply too gummy. it was like a brand new blade would push the glue down into the balsa then when I would go to separate it the film was cut, there was a cut in the balsa but the glue was like hot mozzarella cheese and was a horrible pain.

[sneasle]

The film should separate at the cut regardless of the glue. You may have had a bad roll though, can't say it has ever done that with me. I find it is usually best not to cut covering on a model if I can help it though.

[commrad]

I had used it in the past with no probs years ago and it was just like monokote only a few deg cooler to work with. maybe it was a bad roll but it was a nightmare. reminded me of that really cheap crap the china arfs are covered in that the color separates from the film, this roll did that in a couple of places. pure crap.

[commrad]

Time to try to mount the motor.

first off was to cut 2, 1/4 x 1/4 hardwood sticks from the 3 foot piece of square stock (from home depot) and drill the holes to match the radial mount.

If I were doing it again I would have mounted the motor before covering then installed the front former. oh well live and learn. the 20-22L is a near perfect fit which means it was a pain to get in the allotted engine bay. I still need to find a prop with a thin hub so I can use a spinner. i HATE the way motor manufacturers are making adapters that are really just a little too short to allow a spinner with mainstream props.

this motor loves a MA 10x8 G/F3 even though it makes 12oz less thrust than the gws 11x7 hd prop.

right now the airframe and motor weigh 16oz, my battery weighs 5oz. I would guess it's going to come in about 24oz auw.

[commrad]

Couldn't take it being so plain on the sides. I dug out a sheet of self adhesive yellow trim and printed "Herr" and "P-51e"

"Herr" will be going on the other side when I get time to trim it out. Still gota come up with something for the bottom of the wing, it's way to plain and orange.

[commrad]

in case anyone following this is kinda new and is wondering about the lettering here's an over view.

1. print what you want off the computer.
2 lay it over a self adhesive trim sheet or monokote.
3. trim with a hobby knife, use a new blade.
4. carefully pull the excess out film from around your design.
5. use masking tape to lift the design and keep it aligned.
6. apply and remove masking tape

[rcjetpilot]

Looking good!

About the covering, I only use Hobby-Lobby's low temp polycover. Its goes on easy, very flexable, and shrinks nicely.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/covering_materials_158_ctg.htm

Shaft adater, yeah even the hacker A20, A30 is too short.

I used this mount from Esprit Models for the A30:
http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2962
They also carry the same type of mount for the A20 as well.

MAXX Products carries a bunch of long collet adapters, and for a spinner I used a Great Planes nylon with an aluminum backpate (its very thin).

Best wishes,
Bob

[commrad]

Looking good!

About the covering, I only use Hobby-Lobby's low temp polycover. Its goes on easy, very flexable, and shrinks nicely.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/covering_materials_158_ctg.htm

Shaft adater, yeah even the hacker A20, A30 is too short.

I used this mount from Esprit Models for the A30:
http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2962
They also carry the same type of mount for the A20 as well.

MAXX Products carries a bunch of long collet adapters, and for a spinner I used a Great Planes nylon with an aluminum backpate (its very thin).

Best wishes,
Bob
I try to stay well away from collet adapters. I have had one that worked smoothly and it was only with 1 prop, the apc 11x4.7 slow fly. anything else I tried vibrated so bad it would rip the plane apart if I tried to fly it so I stick with radial mounting. yes my props were balanced and worked fine on the bolt on mount. there are about a dozen or so collets in my box that I have tried with out success. well, i'm off to work :( poor little plane will sit for a few day untouched.

btw, yeah i ordered the right size.

[commrad]

Finally getting ready for the radio gear.
installed and shaped the wing tips and ailerons which I despise. guess why I did those last.

I'm not very fond of the color scheme I chose. if it survives i will definitely redo the covering in something more traditional.

[commrad]

I found the elevator joiner to be VERY flexible and I'm sure it has been used with success in the past i chose to do this more like a larger scale plane. I HATE when you pull back on the stick and the plane starts to loop like there is an aileron input. The rod is 047 music wire that I have an abundant supply of.

The included hardware is ok but I used my own screws, the ones that were included were flat and I prefer philips.

If you decide to solder music wire remember to sand where the solder joint will be to remove the coating.

[commrad]

As of now weight is at 19oz. AUW should be 25oz. should be a pretty sturdy bird. all that is left is the battery tray, aileron servo and radio set up and she's ready to go. it should be finished tonight but they are calling for snow tomorrow, yeha it'll be around march 14 before I get another chance to fly.

[commrad]

AUW 26oz thrust with a fresh 3cell lipo is 27oz. with the KDA 20-22L and a GWS 11x7HD turning 6900rpm static. this gives a pitch speed of 45mph, this is a lot of prop for such a small motor and it unloads quiet a bit in the air. I would guess to about 9000rpm. I've used this combo on smaller planes that were going close to 70mph in a swallow dive and 50-55 in level flight.

I used one of my lightest esc and I can tell it has made a diff in power. my 35amp ecs with the same battery, prop and motor made 32oz thrust and a few hundred more rmp. of course this coulb be due to the fact the other airframe it was measured on had the true nose shape of the p51 not flat lower half and an open motor compartment.

[commrad]

Got the radio gear installed and the CG required the battery be a little further forward that I had hoped.

[commrad]

ah the tail wheel, astute viewers are prob wondering why the tail wheel wasn't installed when it was suppose to be. 1: I HATE tail wheels that are supported by the rudder. 2: I HATE tail wheels that destroy the rudder. 3: did I mention I HATE that type of tail wheel?

I used a Dubro 1/2A that I had laying around. trimmed a little covering and hot glued it to the balsa. there is no reinforcement in the area I glued it but it is in an area that is very structurally sound. I used hot glue because it tends to bond plastic to wood better than epoxy or it all ways has for me (drawbacks are it is brittle at very cold temps).

The pivot point of the tail wheel was lined up with the ruder hinge line to allow solid attachment to the rudder (via hot glue, it can flex without breaking and bonds to the covering).

[sneasle]

looking good, keep up the good work. Maiden should be right around the corner.

[commrad]

canopy installed, ready to go fly, too bad I am about to start my week of solid work 12 hour days :( well I'm off wed and thur and it looks like it's gona be all most 70deg thur :eek: :D :D :D if my better half doesn't have huge plans I think one of those days will be a good day for a maiden.

[commrad]

I have to brag on my GF a little, she allows me to do this to our dinning table all the time and never complains. For all you young guys out there I think I got the last one that is sweet, can cook (VERY well), actually likes to work for a living and is attractive. oh yeah, and puts up with my planes lol.

[sneasle]

You're very lucky there.

Mine is pretty and puts up with my planes, but doesn't enjoy cooking and would sleep all day if she could.

Oh well, at least the two most important aspects are covered :)

[commrad]

It's alive :eek: :D Couldn't take it anymore. I took it up to the church parking lot and did a couple of taxi tests. very nice ground handling with the little dubro tail wheel. the tail comes up after a few feet and it tracks really straight. Time for a take off roll. taxied to the far end of the parking lot and with about a 7mph cross wind slowly advanced the throttle, 3 feet and the wheel was up, just touch of rudder for a few feet to keep her on track then back to neutral, she tracked straight even with the cross wind. on up to full throttle and the right wing started to lift ever so slightly at about 30 feet (slow throttle roll in). just a very light touch on the elevator and off she went and started to bank left. At this point I remembered I forgot to balance the thing from right to left, ooops no turning back now. about a 20deg very scale, VERY smooth climb to about 50 feet and did a 180 turn, you could tell the wind was pretty strong at that altitude. started doing the precarious trim fly, trim fly balancing act. once trimmed she flew similar to a trainer but more responsive. The very light wing loading and the estimated 15-20mph winds aloft made her a little bouncy up high. I couldn't resist anymore, up to about 100-130 feet and through a nice tight loop which would have been a lot better had it not been for the wind. A stall test showed that this thing was going to require planning to get on the ground, she floats very well. With the wind it basically stopped, hung there about 3 seconds and very lazily started to drop the left wing (no this is not a tip stall, this is an out of balance condition) it really reminded me of the old Cessna 152 I use to fly before aviation fuel costs grounded me. I started getting nervous and could feel my right thumb getting that twitchy feeling so I set her up and pointed it into the wind cut the throttle and what do ya know, she didn't wana come down, went around and gave myself a much longer final approach, she crept slowly toward me like a trainer. my flair and touch down was not very pretty, at the last second a small gust of wind caught her and raised the left wing about a half and inch, before I could correct it the right main had touched the ground and when it did it acted like it hit a rock and just stopped, the nose hit the ground and on her back she went. Damage was very minimal, a couple of barely noticeable scuffs in the Monokote.

In short I think this is a fine aircraft, very nice flying, my power system is a little low for fast/aerobatic flight (about 100wats/lbs and 1:1 thrust ratio).

There are a couple of things I would change if I did this kit again. 1. I would have made a better battery hatch 2. it will get bigger wheels 3. I would have chose a something in the 200-250 watt power range. 4. added retracts (the wing loading would be equal to 6-8oz/sf on a gws foamy the way it's built) so the weight would not hurt it very much at all.

[commrad]

All most forgot, the recommended CG seems to be perfect and the recommended throws worked great as well.

Herr Engineering really did an excellent job with this kit, I had heard good things about them and they are all true. The parts fit great, the wood is top quality and the recommend settings are spot on.

I think that with an 049 it would fly but would require good experience to handle due to the lack of power. the high end of the power suggestions would most likely produce similar flight performance to my electric set up. I think a .10 size engine would be a REALLY good choice for this plane.

I can not say enough good things about this kit.

[commrad]

I got the chance to fly today in calm conditions in a much better area (behind an elementary school with a soybean field behind that, even has a nice access road/ runway dividing the two).

I do not think the CG is dead on anymore, it seams a little aft.all though it is not unsafe to fly you can tell it just isn't perfect. It will cruise as long as you want it to at 1/4-1/3 throttle all most like a trainer. at half throttle it becomes a chore to keep level and at 3/4 your doing a loop. A couple of my buddies were there and one made a comment about how slow it would actually fly, he said I couldn't believe it when it just stopped, jumped up about 1-2 feet then started moving again musta been a SMALL gust of wind that we never felt (we're cops, he was going to use the laser gun on it but it only reads down to 5mph). With the current setup you need really calm conditions or it will keep you on your toes.

One thing I did during building was to decrease the dihedral which I'm glad I did otherwise this thing would have been a low wing tail dragging trainer. Even with the dihedral decreased it is still easy to fly with out ailerons, I spent about 5 minutes flying this way.

[commrad]

I just had to try the TT07 since the top two radial mount holes matched the electric that I had in it. So here are some pics. I'll report on how it fly's once I get it off the ground. I'm sure it'll go back electric but I couldn't resist trying it.

The TT got a respectable amount of votes so for those that wanted to see that, here it is.

With a 4oz tank (empty) the plane lost 2oz of weight so flying weight should be very close to the same.

[sneasle]

not too bad. I hope you didn't cut the nose up for that..

[commrad]

not too bad. I hope you didn't cut the nose up for that..
I did have to trim for the muffler but very little. I also trimmed so I could have better access to the HS needle. I still have to remove everything and fuel proof it before flight.

[commrad]

The POS TT is going in the trash. couldn't get it run long enough to get off the ground. it's decided that it's going to do a new trick, run like crazy for about 30 seconds then die. thought it was my fuel system, tore it down put it on the stand and it's doing the same thing. I'm going to try different fuel before I trash it since this was a new thing of fuel but it runs fine in my magnum 70 fs.

I'm so frustrated with 2 strokes at this point I'm going to order an electric for the chipmunk I was building since the smallest 4 strokes are a little too heavy for it.

7-18-09 UPDATE: the little TT, after months of being a hue POS decided that it was going to stop acting like a POS and run like a champ. it has sat in the bottom of my junk box for months and I decided to try it today, fired right up with the starter. the ONLY thing different between now and all the failed attempts is that it's in the 80's instead of 70's and I changed to Wildcat 10% fuel. spins a hobby city special 6x4 12.5k at 88deg 92% humidity and will idle all day long at 3.2k rpm. just ran a about 4 oz of fuel through it at just over idle, ran 25 minutes and was VERY cool when it ran out of fuel.

[sneasle]

ouch, that sucks. i wonder if something might be wrong with it. Call their tech line, maybe they have some ideas?

[commrad]

Nah I think it's just a POS, it hasn't been right since it came out of the box. this may go back to the original problem of the cylinder being way to tight at the top and too loose at the bottom. I'm gona try the 5x5 again since it turned about 2-2.5k more rpm which could be part of the prob, if 12-12.5k is out of it's power band it could be loading the case with oil just like my CR500 with the 620 big bore kit, if it's ran at about 7.3-7.5k it loads up very badly and there is nothing you can do with the carb to fix it. just ride it harder and it's fine.

[6788]

If your going to trash the TT .07 please let me have it and I will try to get it work!
Thanks,
6788

[commrad]

Just wasn't happy with E power, the glow bug bit.
Guess I need to move this to the 1/2A area now.