Holding Shaft Tubes

[time4420]

I read how RC'rs epoxy or glue shaft tube's where they exit the hull and a lot of the time, that bond is the cause of leaks, well, here is the guaranteed remedy; 3M and Sika-flex, makes what is called polyurthane or polysulfide adhesive bedding compounds.If you use this product, you will never have another leak in this area. They cure flexible and I'm not sure about polysulfide (it's not quite as strong but not by much) but polyurthane has a tinsel strenth of 900lbs. per square inch.
Has ant body used this before?

[Ghost 2501]

I used to work at a JCB factory in the UK and they used Sika-flex to hold the windscreens in!

if it'll hold the glass in a digger then a model boat shouldn't be a problem, however not sure how well it'll paint though

[toesup]

I read how RC'rs epoxy or glue shaft tube's where they exit the hull and a lot of the time, that bond is the cause of leaks...

Epoxy is the best method.. in wood and FG hull's. It holds the stuffing tube securely in the hull and shouldnt cause a leak.
If there are leaks, it's usually the stuffing tube / shaft seal thats the problem.

Anything that allows the shaft / stuffing tube to 'flex' in the hull is going to cause wear and alignment problems at the motor / prop ends of the shaft.

[steveciambrone]

I have never had a leak with epoxy in wood or fiberglass hulls. For plastic hulls I have used Pacer Zap-A-Dap-A Goo, and they are still fine.

Thanks
Steve

[FightingSailor]

I use polyester resin and fiberglass cloth (for polyester resin hulls) and epoxy resin and cloth (on epoxy resin hulls). No worries...
Your method seems as if it would be effective. My method is pretty much permanent ( no do overs) I would imagine that using the adhesive you mentioned would allow you to remove the shaft housing at a later date if needed. I can see the advantage to that for sure. I have got one in crooked before and it took a blow torch to straighten it out.

[CGAux26]

I used 3M 5200 to install the shaft log in my Springer, and in my Loyal tender. 1.5 years' running on the Springer with no problems. The shaft log is supported in the skeg as well as through the hull, a length of about 4" I also used 5200 for the motor platform (plywood to plywood), and some other, lower stress joints.

I once bedded the steering wheel on my 32' Albin with 5200. After 4 years out in the Texas heat, it was still strong and a bit flexible. Good stuff.

If you use just a little from the tube and the cap end gets hard, use an icepick or such to poke holes around the tube to get more of the sealant out later.

[tghsmith]

JB weld works great, make sure to rough up the brass and the hull area lightly, then clean the these areas with a good solvent(acetone) use the original(longer curing)