Help!!

[marc 540]

I'm converting my BOT ARF to electric and for the life of me I cannot get the steel plug out of the nose!! I cut about an inch of fiberglass of the nose and tried the heat iron and the heat gun to try to warm up the glue and beat the :censored: out of it with a hammer!! :eek: Nothing. Is there some sort of debonder that will cut the glue? I'd hate to have to cut the whole nose of and have an exposed motor!

Marc 540

[Buran]

Why not cut further back and use a larger spinner?

[seanpcola]

I really would have thought heat would work. Is this the ARF BOT? I rebuilt one of those and heat worked fine. I wonder if they switched to a different glue? If it's CA, yes, they do make a debonder. If you try that make sure you let it soak a while and work slowly.

Sean

[marc 540]

Yes, this the ARF with the fiberglass fuse. The glue does not appear to be CA as it look's thick like epoxy or JB weld. Yike's!! I thought the heat would do it too. The slug is steal and not lead. (thin layer of rust)

Marc

[seanpcola]

On the ARF version I returned from the dead the glue looked and acted like hot-melt. Maybe they changed it. Are you getting the weight thoroughly heated? Not questioning your skill but it may need to get hotter than you realize. Of course, you don't want to fry the glass but maybe try it again and edge the temp up higher. Do you have access to a pencil type torch? How about a large tip high watt soldering iron?

[lincoln]

If you can tin the tip of this thing with solder, and apply a very large soldering iron (100 watts), I bet it comes out. If you can expose the back end and have access to a welder, maybe you can use resistance heating. But it better not be for long if you don't want to catch the nose on fire!

[marc 540]

I don't have a torch or a big soldering iron, I just used a heat gun on the outside of the fiberglass around the slug. The steel slug did get pretty hot and held it's heat for quiet a while. (15 to 20 minute's or so) Maybe I'll try again and concetrate the heat on the slug itself from the exposed tip.

Thank's Marc 540

[IBWALT]

If you use a heat gun to try to heat the slug again I would set the nose of the bot in some ice water or wrap the nose with a cold wet rag. This will keep the fg from deforming if it gets to hot.

Walt

[Resurgam]

If heat won't do it, I guess you will have to get it out mechanically. I'd try cutting the fiberglass nose back so the front of the plug is projecting, then start drilling through the glue round the edges (parallel with the axis of the plug - I assume it's a cylinder). Slow, tedious and messy, but it might work.

[marc 540]

Thank's guy's, I'll try the mechanical approach.

Marc

[Resurgam]

Good luck - let us know how it goes.

[marc 540]

O.K. I got the slug out by cutting back a little further, so now my question is how to acctually make a mount and the method for mounting? The motor came with an X mount but if I make a wood firewall recessed into the fuse how do I mount the motor to it? The motor with the X mount attatched will not fit through the front opening of the fuse. If I mount the X mount as the firewall then put the motor through the front of the fuse I dont think I'll be able to mount the motor to the mount because of the angle of my access. Am I explaining this right? Any pic's of other installs with a similar fuse would be a great help!!

Thank's Marc