Nitro motors specs

[nospam]

Hello,

As you have much more experience with nitro motors than me
I have a several questions that are not all on the same subject.

1. What are the best motors as far as you have experienced.
I often ear os, but are there others that are as good
or even better?

2. How would you rate the following list:
Force
MVVS
ASP
OS

3. Is there a big difference between the OS12CV and OS15CV?

4. Is there a big difference between OS Hyper CV, CV-R and CV?

5. I know it is a very basic question, but I dare asking:
When you upgrade from a 1/10 (with 0.15 motor) to a 1/8
(with a 0.21 motor), is there a big difference of speed?

6. are 0.21 for 1/8 car only and never for 1/10 car?

7. What are the most important specs?

8. What will change if I upgrade to a motor with more
power but the sam rpm?
My guess is that it should accelerate faster.

9. What will change if I upgrade to a motor with same rpm and power
but a different size (0.12 -> 0.15)?
It may be impossible, but I do not know.

As a motivated newby, I am impatient to get answers
to these basic questions.
Thanks in advance for all your answers.

[nospam]

Hello,

Is nobody motivated to give advices to a nitro newby?
If you have good urls it is also good for me.

See you,

[Bubba]

On Tue, 04 Mar 2003 08:25:07 +0100, nospam <nospam@antispam.com>
wrote:

>Is nobody motivated to give advices to a nitro newby?
>If you have good urls it is also good for me.

Since I'm a die hard electric guy, my advise would be to pass up those
slow, noisy, smelly, dirty environment killers and stick with the fast
cars: electrics ;)

Never mind the fact that methanol is better that gasoline in regards
to pollution and that the tiny amounts even a .21 burns are
insignificant anyway. That's just a minor detail ;)

Bubba
Losi XXXS- http://home.swbell.net/lt1_z28/xxxs.html
HPI Micro RS4- For sale
AE RC10LSS- Also for sale:
http://home.swbell.net/lt1_z28/rc10lss_for_sale.htm

[BradL]

Responses inline........
nospam wrote:
> Hello,
>
> As you have much more experience with nitro motors than me
> I have a several questions that are not all on the same subject.
>
> 1. What are the best motors as far as you have experienced.
> I often ear os, but are there others that are as good
> or even better?

I haven't used any of the expensive motors - I have used OS, Force, Traxxas
and the ones in the Duratrax cars.
Rating for general ease of tuning and use - OS, Duratrax, Force, Traxxas
>
> 2. How would you rate the following list:
> Force
> MVVS
> ASP
> OS
>
In what terms ? Power, longevity, ability to stay tuned, cost ?

> 3. Is there a big difference between the OS12CV and OS15CV?
>
Can't say - I only have the OS12CV-R. On paper the differences are a black
heatsink on the 15 and and extra couple of decimals on the HP of the 15.

> 4. Is there a big difference between OS Hyper CV, CV-R and CV?
>
Cost, performance, warranty. The CV-R has no warranty, has more power and is
slightly dearer.

> 5. I know it is a very basic question, but I dare asking:
> When you upgrade from a 1/10 (with 0.15 motor) to a 1/8
> (with a 0.21 motor), is there a big difference of speed?
>
Depends on how you gear the vehicle. It may well end up being slower if you
gear it that way.
It also depends on whether you're putting a .21 into a car that presently
has a .15. You can gear higher as the .21 should have more power and torque
than the .15.

> 6. are 0.21 for 1/8 car only and never for 1/10 car?

No, There are a few 1/10th scale cars with .21's in them.
>
> 7. What are the most important specs?
>
For me, it boils down to what I can afford..... but look for power and max
RPMs.
> 8. What will change if I upgrade to a motor with more
> power but the sam rpm?
> My guess is that it should accelerate faster.
Depends - it might flip over on its back ;-) But I guess, generally, yes, it
will accellerate faster.
>
> 9. What will change if I upgrade to a motor with same rpm and power
> but a different size (0.12 -> 0.15)?
> It may be impossible, but I do not know.
>
Most likely fuel economy will be worse......
> As a motivated newby, I am impatient to get answers
> to these basic questions.
> Thanks in advance for all your answers.

I'm sure there are others out there with more useful answers than mine.

Regards,
Brad.

[nospam]

>>2. How would you rate the following list:
>>Force
>>MVVS
>>ASP
>>OS
>>
>
> In what terms ? Power, longevity, ability to stay tuned, cost ?
>

With which motors did you have problems "not stay tuned"?

[Trowelfaz]

Comments inline:
"nospam" <nospam@antispam.com> wrote in message
news:3E6307E2.9010903@antispam.com...
> Hello,
>
> As you have much more experience with nitro motors than me
> I have a several questions that are not all on the same subject.
>
> 1. What are the best motors as far as you have experienced.
> I often ear os, but are there others that are as good
> or even better?
>
> 2. How would you rate the following list:
> Force
> MVVS
> ASP
> OS
Only used OS from this list (but have used a LOT of others). OS is good
quality, but over priced. Also, people have preferences. I would consult
your LHS to see what they sell and support/stock parts for. A lot depends on
your driving style, fuel used and the car itself. A 7 or 11 port race motor
would probably give you fits for bashing, but work great in the hands of a
die-hard racer.


> 3. Is there a big difference between the OS12CV and OS15CV?
Bigger size = larger displacement/CC's = more torque

>
> 4. Is there a big difference between OS Hyper CV, CV-R and CV?
http://www.osengines.com/engines/car.html

>
> 5. I know it is a very basic question, but I dare asking:
> When you upgrade from a 1/10 (with 0.15 motor) to a 1/8
> (with a 0.21 motor), is there a big difference of speed?
Depends. You can gear the .21 engine lower to get more top end speed, and
since the .21 has a larger combustion chamber/more CC's, it has more torque
than the .15 counterparts (thus allowing to run the lower gearing and still
get the engine up to the higher RPM's).

>
> 6. are 0.21 for 1/8 car only and never for 1/10 car?
There are some 1/10 kits with .21's. Also some .21 conversion kits for a
popular monster truck.

>
> 7. What are the most important specs?
Depends on what you are after. For a novice, reliability, good warranty,
easy adjustments (and probably a barrel type carb). If you are looking at
raw numbers, consider that the HP is a CALCULATED value. I suggest
performing a search on google for calculating horse power and try to fir the
equations found into the mfg's specs to see how much torque is actually
being generated. To me, this is what is important: High horse power
(calculated) vs. OPTIMAL (but MAX) RPM. The higher the HP rating with a
lower RPM will yield great low end torque and should be able to more easily
run lower gearing and still operate in the optimum RPM band. Engines that
advertise 1.0 HP at 40,000 sounds great, but unless you run some really tall
gears, you will never hit that RPM range.

>
> 8. What will change if I upgrade to a motor with more
> power but the sam rpm?
> My guess is that it should accelerate faster.
>
Better acceleration and possibly higher top end since you can run a lower
gear ratio and still be in the powerband.

> 9. What will change if I upgrade to a motor with same rpm and power
> but a different size (0.12 -> 0.15)?
> It may be impossible, but I do not know.
Depends on the gearing. The larger engine should have more torque (given the
larger displacement)

>
> As a motivated newby, I am impatient to get answers
> to these basic questions.
> Thanks in advance for all your answers.

Also remember that one may have great luck with a particular brand, while
you will depise it. Tuning a 3-needle carb takes experience, while most
2-needle carbs can either work flawlessly OR give you a lot of headaches. I
suggest reading everything you can about the operation of 2-stroke nitro
engines, especially the tuning aspects. The things that usually kill nitro
newbies are:
- Incorrect glow plug (depends on the displacement, pipe type and fuel nitro
%)
- Fiddling with low-end mixture screw and getting it out of whack
- Air leaks (most often, from the mfg. - easily sealed with silicone or new
o-rings or gaskets and a little care)
- Bent needles from over-tightening


A general tip that I have found helps most newbies get their engine in the
ballpark for starting after they fiddle with the needles:
1) Open the carb all the way and open the high-speed needle about 3-5 turns
2) Place a CLEAN piece of fuel tubing on the inlet nipple
3) Cover the carb intake with your finger and blow through the fuel tubing.
4) If air leaks around the carb base, you need to remove the carb and reseal
it. For the 'peg' type carbs, loosen the nut and keep downward pressure on
the carb to 'seat' the o-ring while re-tightening the nut. On screw carbs, a
little silicone or a new o-ring works.

Next, set the needles:
1) Ensure the carb is closed (or at the idle position)
2) Close the high-speed needle. Be careful not to crank it tight since you
can easily bend the tip.
3) Open the high-speed needle 3 turns
4) Close the low-speed needle (don't crank tight and make sure carb is
close/idle position)
5) Blow through the fuel tubing and open the low-speed needle until you hear
the rush of air into the carb. Keep opening the low-speed needle until it is
a large rush of air, then turn it back down to the point of transition of a
little air rush/lot of air rush.
6) Start the engine. Finish tuning from there given the instructions with
your engine.

The above should get you back to a starting point where the engine SHOULD
start fairly easily and stay running until you can get the needles set. I
have seen a lot of people struggle for hours on end just trying to get their
engine started, and after this 5-minute setup, they are off and running.