PDA

View Full Version : Discussion T-rex 600 ESP with direct-link swash


missle
Dec 05, 2008, 01:24 PM
Got a situation in which I've going to be doing a upgrade/rebuild on my Rex 600. This is my baby that I've had for about 6 months in which it's been stock and I've logged over 200+ flights on it without ANY problems. Then came yesturday in which I was doing some stuff, panicked, and crashed it. Oh well. The good news is that I had already been planning to do some upgrades to it, so this is what I've got:
1. 650L motor (ESP stock motor)
2. 100A Align ESC
3. 15 and 16 tooth helical with 188 helical main gear
4. Outrage 6S 5000mah bats
5. eMultigov which was currently set at idle 2 of 2150
6. TP 1320mah with CC 10A BEC
7. Align 610 Servos (the current ones are 9252 but wanted improved speed)
8. Futaba 401 with 9254 on tail
9. G-Force weighted tail

My goal is to reduce a lil weight, increase strength, increase power/weight ratio, maintain simplicity of her current state. To start, I'd like to make the servo to swash a direct link setup and therefore cut out a lot of weight be removing all the indirect links. Does anyone have experience with setting up the 600 with direct swash?

Also, I'm considering going to 8S on this setup so is there anyone interested in buying some Outrage 6S 5000mah batts so that I can at least put a down payment for the 8S bats? I bought these just prior to IRCHA so they're about 4 months old and seem to be as good as day one.

Thanks Eric

RC Man
Dec 05, 2008, 04:33 PM
I have never had good results with Align Motors. You should consider upgrading to a Scorpion motor and a 10s LiPo. Once you fly high voltage you will never want to go back.

You might also consider a better gyro. The Spartan gyro is now in stock most everyplace.

I fly eMultiGov – it’s definitely the best thing that ever happened to helicopters.

Those CC BEC’s have sometimes not been very reliable. Since you want to same weight get a UBEC and get rid of that extra battery.

As far as servos go I like the new Futaba Brushless servos. They take less power and last a lot longer. BLS451 is what I use.


:) :cool:

RC Man
Dec 06, 2008, 06:33 AM
I don’t think that the T600 is very popular on this forum. I have asked several questions in the past with little or no response. Not sure why the T600 has such low popularity?

swflybob
Dec 06, 2008, 10:47 AM
What are you asking for your 6s LiPo's ?

Bob Morris

missle
Dec 06, 2008, 11:44 AM
Bob, now I'm not really sure I want to sell them cause I came up with the idea of just having one of my 4 Outrage packs taken apart into 3 seperate 2S packs. Then that would leave me with 3 seperate 8S 5000mah Outrage packs.

What's the going rates on these packs with ~ 50 cycles on them and with FULL power still in them?
What are you asking for your 6s LiPo's ?

Bob Morris

swflybob
Dec 06, 2008, 01:42 PM
I have no idea at all - maybe $100 ??

Bob

missle
Dec 06, 2008, 07:26 PM
I have no idea at all - maybe $100 ??

Bob

That's what I was worried about. I think I'll just keep them and make them into 3 seperate 8S packs.

aaronredbaron
Dec 07, 2008, 02:56 PM
Unless you are very well versed working with individual LiPo cells, I would not try to take those packs apart. The cells are bonded together, usually with a very thin double sided tape, and you must separate them without pulling on the surface of the cells. If you deform the cells, they may be damaged. Also, DO NOT use anything sharp to separate them. If you puncture a pack with a metal blade, a fire is almost a sure result. If you want to go for it, my preferred method is to use a high tensile piece of fishing wire like a cheese cutter. Be aware also that the tabs coming out of the cells are relatively delicate. One will be steel and the other aluminum, and the aluminum one is very susceptible to being torn off if flexed back and forth a few times. I started using LiPo cells in 2002 with the Kokam 1020 mAh cells. These cells were rated at 1-2c and were only available individually at first. The early LiPo users had a hell of a time building reliable packs, and many users ruined cells trying to build their packs.
Its not impossible, in fact I often salvage good cells. For instance, if one cell in a 3 cell pack dies you can remove the bad cell and continue to use it as a 2 cell pack (its always nice when its one of the outside cells instead of the center one ;) ) But, with that begin said I would not recommend separating the packs you have to build them into 8s packs. Chances are high you could damage at least one cell in the process and it would put a major hamper on things for you.
Good luck with whatever you choose to do, and happy landings :D

missle
Dec 07, 2008, 06:58 PM
ARB, thanks for the warning and good words of wisdom. I personally have seperated and rearranged numerous packs (as well as destroyed a cell or two) so I'm cautiously-confident about doing the job. However, I probably will have a local shop that makes their own packs, actually do these for me cause I want a very good soldier job so that the resistance is equall throughout.

Danal Estes
Dec 09, 2008, 12:03 AM
For Trex 600 Electric "Direct to Swash" get the Air Wild RC arms. Get the 1" half arms. http://www.airwildpilotshop.com/MoreInfo-1.asp?title=product&id=90 They are 4-40 threaded, but the Align balls will 'slip' through the hole and bolt right on. They will self-center due to a little 'well' around the hole.

The side servos just take the arms. The rear servo gets turned around (output shaft to the rear), then takes the arm. Direct links to swash. Geometry is very even.

I am flying this setup, as are several others at the local field. Just bolts right on, strips off a lot of other crap. Great setup.

missle
Dec 09, 2008, 07:03 AM
For Trex 600 Electric "Direct to Swash" get the Air Wild RC arms. Get the 1" half arms. http://www.airwildpilotshop.com/MoreInfo-1.asp?title=product&id=90 They are 4-40 threaded, but the Align balls will 'slip' through the hole and bolt right on. They will self-center due to a little 'well' around the hole.

The side servos just take the arms. The rear servo gets turned around (output shaft to the rear), then takes the arm. Direct links to swash. Geometry is very even.

I am flying this setup, as are several others at the local field. Just bolts right on, strips off a lot of other crap. Great setup.

Danal,
YOU DA MAN!

Thanks so much. I'll be ordering those today.

RC Man
Dec 09, 2008, 11:23 AM
I really don’t see that doing to a servo direct link is going to save enough to make it worth the effort. Align went to a lot of trouble to develop an excellent control system.

missle
Dec 09, 2008, 01:36 PM
I really don’t see that doing to a servo direct link is going to save enough to make it worth the effort. Align went to a lot of trouble to develop an excellent control system.

I agree but maybe they did that so that folks wouldn't be forced to purchase servos in $150/per range just for the cyclic....but then they came out with their own 160oz/in servo with a speed of 0.07sec. Even if it didn't save much in weight, just the setup/adjustments is enough reason for me to eliminate it as long as it's performance is slightly improved.