Flybarless Swift 16/Approach Cobra Build

[Wren1702]

OK, couldn't stand it anymore...had to build the mechanics.

Equipment:
Swift 16
AR-7000 RX
401/9254 Combo
HS-5625MG Servos
HV-85 ESC
Starting out with Scorpion 4025-890 motor
Skookum SK-360

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/TheGoodies.jpg


First, the head. Assembled very easily, no problems. Was super smooth!

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/FlybarlessHead.jpg

[Wren1702]

Next, the frames. Wasn't crazy about how you have to hold the nuts for the motor mount....but no big problem.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Frames.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Frameassy.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Framewfrontmount.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/FrontView.jpg

[Dogwoodtheone]

Nice Wren, will be keeping my eye on this one :)

[Spidious]

Hey its all my fault he decided to go ahead and build his Christmas present early !

Really waiting to see the body kit build !

[pjpg]

I will be following as well. I keep thinking of doing an approach build.

[Wren1702]

Moving ahead.... goofed up a couple of times not paying attention to what I was doing...no harm, just a few extra minutes time. Century should really take the manual and make it step it step (AKA Align manual).

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Tail.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/MovingAlong.jpg

[Spidious]

Be sure you got a good tail boom. Some of them were drilled off slightly and can cause the tail rotor blade to be at a 85° angle instead of a 90° angle..
It doesn't matter if you use a aluminum tail rotor assembly !

[Wren1702]

Tail box is OK, thanks!

Starting set up the mixing, etc with the Skookum.
Used servo plates and longer screws to install the servos. I did use two of these same servo plates to space the elevator servo out a bit more for perfect alignment.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Servoinstall.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Skookum.jpg

[desert_flyer]

Wren,

Make sure you reduce tail drag compensation to -1 in the SK360. The standard setting is way too high - the heli tends to pitch up and down in FFF.

[Wren1702]

Wren,

Make sure you reduce tail drag compensation to -1 in the SK360. The standard setting is way too high - the heli tends to pitch up and down in FFF..

Thanks, I'll make sure and check it. Have you tried the new revision yet? They say that the problem has been cured with this revision.

[Wren1702]

Well, time to call it at night. About 4 1/2 hours spent on the heli. so far. All the mixing/Skookum setup is done. I'm really impressed with the kit! Ball links fit very well. Tomorrow we'll tidy up the wires.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Headsetup.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Headsetup2.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Headsetup3.jpg

[Greybird]

Man, that looks nice! Sure cleans up the rotor head without a flybar, and all that goes with it.

[Spidious]

This looks really nice. But how much wire clearance to the motor ?
Are you going to put the gyro on the back plate area ?

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Headsetup3.jpg

[Wren1702]

Haven't decided where to route the servo wires yet.

[Wren1702]

OK, everything mounted and wired. Turned out really well (At least I think so :D ) Made my own Gyro/Skookum mount after finding a similar setup in the Tales thread.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/007.jpg

Turned the motor around so I could mount the ESC a little different so the throttle wire would reach the RX.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/006.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/005.jpg

[Wren1702]

OK, now some ready to fly pictures.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/008.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/010.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/011.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/012.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/013.jpg

[Wren1702]

A couple more shots.

I did end up using a 3 amp Align Regulator since my 6 amp has not made it in yet. Also these are Gohbee 550 mm Fiberglass blades.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/014.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/015.jpg

[Spidious]

Simple short question ?
Looks like you are using the DX7, what setup do you use for the flybarless settings ?
Mine is set up currently as a 120°
I am thinking of going that route when I go to the 4 blade setup. If so I guess I will have to reprogram my transmitter ?
Is there a easy setup information somewhere I can try and figure this out ?

Oh by the way the kids left a red Lego lying outside !

[Wren1702]

Simple short question ?
Looks like you are using the DX7, what setup do you use for the flybarless settings ?
Mine is set up currently as a 120°
I am thinking of going that route when I go to the 4 blade setup. If so I guess I will have to reprogram my transmitter ?
Is there a easy setup information somewhere I can try and figure this out ?
Oh by the way the kids left a red Lego lying outside !

You use mcpm (One servo) just like a Raptor. Nothing is set in the radio, no endpoints, servo reversing or anything (Just for your CCPM stuff). All of that is done in the Skookum. Here's a link for the manual. http://www.skookumrobotics.com/support.html

[Wren1702]

Video now up. Head speed was 1500.

http://www.vimeo.com/2380210

[Dogwoodtheone]

oops locked video :)

[Wren1702]

oops locked video :)


Oops....repaired! :eek: :p

[Cyclick]

Thanks for the video Wren, that looks nice and stable and good performance at 1500.

[Fred Bronk]

Nice setup. Did you use machine screws for the boom mount? Looks like it.

FB

[Wren1702]

Nice setup. Did you use machine screws for the boom mount? Looks like it.

FB

Yes, It actually came in the kit, in a seperate bag attached to the bag with all the tail parts. I assumed that's where they went.

This kit just has to be the most underrated, best kept secret in the helicopter world. I would recommend it to anyone who is just starting out.

[Fred Bronk]

This kit just has to be the most underrated, best kept secret in the helicopter world. I would recommend it to anyone who is just starting out.

Have to agree for sme reason :o and it can be built for less than a 450!!!

[thanhTran]

Beautiful work and beautiful machine!
I really like how it looks and flies. So smooth. The head looks so clean without all the mechanic of the mechanical fly bar. Thanks for posting.

-Thanh

[Spidious]

Hey thanhTran you need to buy one then a Agusta body and put your led's in it. I have them in mine and they look great ! Wasn't able to install in the clear tail cone (they didn't drill a centering hole that would allow that) Was going to go out this morning and fly again. Woke up and my wife goes, you are not going to believe how much snow we got 2+"
Wonder how well it would work in snow ? Would make some really cool videos !

As fa as this build log goes, can't wait till he opens his Christmas present and gets stated on it, or was this suppose to still be under the tree along with the body kit :)

[Wren1702]

As fa as this build log goes, can't wait till he opens his Christmas present and gets stated on it, or was this suppose to still be under the tree along with the body kit :)

HAHAHAHA...........Yep, gotta wait on the next part of the build. ;) :p

[Dogwoodtheone]

hehe we'll probably be starting on the fuselage about the same time :)

I still need to get some building tools and I plan on taking the last week of the year off, hope to get a good start on it then :D

[Spidious]

Gee I will kind of be taking 3 weeks off at the end and beginning of the year. :rolleyes:
If I had some extra money I could build one too ! :D

Wish somebody had a contest to win a AH-64 !

[Wren1702]

OK, Down to the nuts and bolts of building/setting up a Heli!

Started with some data logging. This was today's 1rst flight. Headspeed was actually about 1580. I performed a couple of full pitch climbouts to record peak draw. The rest of the flight was typical scale type flying with FFF and hovering mixed.

Temps were as follows:
Motor: 78 F
Pack: 85 F
ESC: 62
Ambient temp was 45-50

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Swifttest1.jpg



Second flight was about the same.

Temps:
Motor: 80
Pack: 85
ESC: 66

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Swifttest2.jpg

[Wren1702]

In between some of these flights I adjusted some of the Skookum settings:

Upped the roll rate in both axis.
Lowered the Hiller gain in both axis.

Moved the headspeed down to 1470. Flies really well, did pick up a very small kick in the tail....barley noticeable. This looks promising as far as flight time. I'll be uploading a video of this flight shortly.

Forgot the temps:
Motor: 79 F
Pack: 85 F
ESC: 65

Update, Here's the video of the flight in the graph below! Please look over the creaking/popping sound, my son decided to use a cheap tripod. :rolleyes:

http://www.vimeo.com/2388917

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Swifttest3.jpg

[Dogwoodtheone]

I was worried the tail might not be solid at the lower head speed, sound like that is not an issue

[litespeed]

What flight times are you looking to get? For scale personally I would want a min of 8 mins but would be shooting for 12 mins. Yours are extremely short I assume with the low wattage pulled and amps that your just getting watt per min calculations?

Tom

[Wren1702]

What flight times are you looking to get? For scale personally I would want a min of 8 mins but would be shooting for 12 mins. Yours are extremely short I assume with the low wattage pulled and amps that your just getting watt per min calculations?

Tom


Yes, when I'm doing setup work I just set the time to a set amount (5 minutes in this case) so I'll have a base line to work with.

[Wren1702]

I was worried the tail might not be solid at the lower head speed, sound like that is not an issue

The only thing I saw different between 1580 and 1470 was that when you shot full collective...the tail lagged just slightly.

[rotoraddict]

This kit just has to be the most underrated, best kept secret in the helicopter world. I would recommend it to anyone who is just starting out.

I have to agree 100%.

I have lost count of how many helis (glow, gas & electric) that I have built over the years and I find the whole Swift series very much under-rated.

Century has to do something to get their helis better recognized...they are all very good quality, at very low pricing.

[Mist-R Mosquito]

Looking good Wren! I'm starting to get Skookum fever for my Long Ranger build! :D

[Wren1702]

Well, after a couple more flights, I set the timer to 14 minutes and off we went!

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/14minuteflight.jpg

[HAV]

That is a nice loooong graph. Is there a reason you chose the Scorpion 4025-890 over the 4020-910 or did you just have it on-hand? HAV

[Wren1702]

That is a nice loooong graph. Is there a reason you chose the Scorpion 4025-890 over the 4020-910 or did you just have it on-hand? HAV


It's what I had on hand. I may replace it with the 4020-910. Perhaps I'll call Lucien this week and discuss it.

[HAV]

I just ordered a 4020 for my swift (without speaking to Lucien). I've had an Approach Cobra on the board for a couple of months. Got tied up and unable to work on it until after the Holidays. Have had the Swift for 6 months or so with a Century 600A motor that was supposed to be 1100 Kv but is more like 1250. Even on 5 cells and a 9t pinion the headspeed was too high for scale and I don't like to run the govenor lower than 85% or so.
Looks like the flybarless is working well even with the lower ratio between the swash and bladegrips. Looking forward to seeing your progress. HAV

[Gadget01]

Nice build- makes me want the Skookum unit. Wren, where is the swash driver hardware from?

[Wren1702]

Nice build- makes me want the Skookum unit. Wren, where is the swash driver hardware from?

This heli has the Mikado driver, If I were purchasing one I would go with the new Century one.

http://www.centuryheli.com/products/productdetail.htm?currentid=338&prtnm=CN2353

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/PAAAIANGMODOCGGL.jpg

[Wren1702]

I just ordered a 4020 for my swift (without speaking to Lucien). I've had an Approach Cobra on the board for a couple of months. Got tied up and unable to work on it until after the Holidays. Have had the Swift for 6 months or so with a Century 600A motor that was supposed to be 1100 Kv but is more like 1250. Even on 5 cells and a 9t pinion the headspeed was too high for scale and I don't like to run the govenor lower than 85% or so.
Looks like the flybarless is working well even with the lower ratio between the swash and bladegrips. Looking forward to seeing your progress. HAV

I'm thinking that I'll also go with the 4020.

Also, the ratio on the head is about 1 to 1.4, I'm going to pick up some longer balls and get it to 1.5....my swash mix for pitch is at 38%. I would rather have closer to 50% at least.

[Gadget01]

This heli has the Mikado driver, If I were purchasing one I would go with the new Century one.

http://www.centuryheli.com/products/productdetail.htm?currentid=338&prtnm=CN2353

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/PAAAIANGMODOCGGL.jpg Oh, that looks mighty nice. More for the wish list....

Thanks for the links.

[oldeflyer]

I have looked at a lot of other posts for flybarless. Since this is about Swift conversion, I thought I would ask here.
Is there some place that gives a concise rundown on what has to change for flybarless and why?
This piece called variously a 'driver' and a 'follower' looks to replace the washout? I under stand some of the functions of the various pieces on a normal flybar rotor. Any where to get basic information on flybarless?

[Wren1702]

I have looked at a lot of other posts for flybarless. Since this is about Swift conversion, I thought I would ask here.
Is there some place that gives a concise rundown on what has to change for flybarless and why?
This piece called variously a 'driver' and a 'follower' looks to replace the washout? I under stand some of the functions of the various pieces on a normal flybar rotor. Any where to get basic information on flybarless?

Download the user manual for the Skookum, it has a good bit of information:

http://www.skookumrobotics.com/support.html

Yes, The driver replaces the washout base. Some people drill and tap the washout base to make it a swash driver. The swash driver simply keeps the inner part of the swash from rotating.

[Spidious]

Download the user manual for the Skookum, it has a goob bit of information:


:D It is a good bit of information too ! :D

[Wren1702]

:D It is a good bit of information too ! :D

:D :D :p :p :p :p :p

[Spidious]

Knew I should check it at work ;)

I came in to work to change the oil on my Tacoma, since it will be a while before I can do any heavy lifting after my upcoming surgery...

[Mist-R Mosquito]

Hope it's nothing serious. Is holding a transmitter considered heavy lifting? :)

[Spidious]

Well my copter is just under 8#'s...
So if she limits me to 10#'s I should be OK ! :D

[Wren1702]

Update....

Made a few more adjustments. First, with the length balls that I had on the main grips the swash mix for pitch was 34%. Wasn't keen on that little travel for the servos. I replaced the balls with Century part # CNLR1017. These upped the ratio to 1:1.5, much better. I was able to increase the pitch % to 48. Here's a link for them:
http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=3355

A shot of the head with the new balls.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0504110010.jpg

Next I rerouted some of the wiring and fastened down the ESC wiring. Also, I moved the regulator onto the bottom plate so I can turn it on with the canopy on the heli.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0504110008.jpg
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0504110009.jpg

[Wren1702]

After looking at a lot of set ups, I turned the battery around so the canopy fits better and I can plug up the battery with it mounted.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0504110003.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0504110005.jpg

[Wren1702]

I've been trying some different head speeds. 1470, 1520 and 1570. 1470 sounds the best! :D However, with the 550 mm blades and wind...I seem to have a problem with power settling. Also wind affects it a fair amount. 1570 takes care of the wind and most of the settling. 1520 seems a good comprise.

Here's a graph from this afternoon, note that we used an average of 192 ma per minute. This heli must be getting broken in now! :cool:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Swiftflight.jpg

Here's a video of some of today's flying:

http://www.vimeo.com/2449529

[Wren1702]

Finally...Started on the fuselage today. Used a lot of Epoxy and CA! :eek: :)

I did add a metal head block and High Efficiency main gear about 2 weeks ago. Still flying it when I can. HS is still at 1530. Current flight time is a very conservative 10 minutes. I'm planning on adjusting a bit more on the SK-360 whenever I can get a full day of test flights in.

No real problems so far in the assembly of the fuselage, just a couple of minor bumps in the road.

Here's the elevated tail assy. and canopy.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day1.jpg

The start of the fuselage:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day12.jpg

Fuselage with canopy:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day13.jpg

A couple of shots with the mechanics just stuck in.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day14.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day15.jpg

[dswitkin]

Very cool. You're halfway there:

http://www.gedop.org/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/cobra_front_2.jpg

:)

Daniel

[Spidious]

As fast as you are gong I think it might be done soon !
Looks like it would be a excellent project for a person to buy the kit. Build it, paint it and sell it !

[Wren1702]

As fast as you are gong I think it might be done soon !
Looks like it would be a excellent project for a person to buy the kit. Build it, paint it and sell it !

I'm already thinking about building the second one!

[Dogwoodtheone]

As fast as you are gong I think it might be done soon !
Looks like it would be a excellent project for a person to buy the kit. Build it, paint it and sell it !


well as the old saying goes Spidi, "the devils in the details" :D

[Wren1702]

well as the old saying goes Spidi, "the devils in the details" :D


I'm afraid it'll be slowing to a crawl soon..... :eek: :o

[Dogwoodtheone]

LOL, I'm already at a crawl and haven't even got to the details part yet! :eek:

[Wren1702]

Today's update. Got a good deal of work done.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2Nose.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2Tail.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2fin.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2underside.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2-3.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2-2.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/day2-1.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day2.jpg

[Cloud Cruiser]

Great looking project. Looks like you may have used sandpaper before this build! ;)

Robert

[Dogwoodtheone]

Starting to shape up nicely :D

[Wren1702]

Managed about 6 hours working on it today. Was a very satisfying part of the build. Also the most tedious to me.

First today (All 6 hours!)was to build the transmission housing. Here it is roughed in. Note the sanding guide marks.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030001.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030003.jpg

[Wren1702]

During this portion I also built the engine air intakes, they took about an hour to complete. The small air intakes were the hardest part. They were made using a small Xacto chisel blade and an Emory board! Here they are attached and marked with the next sanding line.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030004.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030005.jpg

[Wren1702]

Here we are after some sanding...a lot of sanding! Next up was cutting the preformed doghouse. This took about an hour. It was quite the little job to get it mated properly as well as level side to side and at the correct angle front to back!

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030006.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030007.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030008.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030010.jpg

[Wren1702]

After you get the doghouse cut properly, you trace a line around it and then add some balsa guides. Soaked them with water first to make them bend easier. Then it's a simple chore to cut out the inside after gluing the guides on.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030011.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030012.jpg

[Wren1702]

Now it's time to attach the doghouse. I used 30 minute epoxy with micro balloons to fill in around the balsa guide, then pushed the doghouse down onto it. Used my finger to wipe the excess epoxy off and make a nice fillet around the doghouse.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030015.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/0505030016.jpg

[Wren1702]

I'm still very much enjoying this build. I really thought it would take 2 weeks to get to this stage. 3 days of work so far, I can't complain.

[Dogwoodtheone]

WOW, crazy amount of work there, was thinking a Cobra might make a nice second scale bird. Might have to think a bit harder on that one :D

[JustPlaneChris]

Oh man, that's not "work", it's pure joy. :cool: There is something very soothing about shaping a wood fuselage. I truly enjoyed building the fuselage for the Genie sailplane (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713855), which is a balsa and ply structure that is then fiberglassed.

Alan, did you sand all of that, or plane some of it? I've got a Master Airscrew razor plane (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAA64&P=FR) that works amazingly well for the rough shaping.

-Chris

[Wren1702]

Oh man, that's not "work", it's pure joy. :cool: There is something very soothing about shaping a wood fuselage. I truly enjoyed building the fuselage for the Genie sailplane (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713855), which was the subject of a multi-part article in RC Soaring Digest.

Alan, did you sand all of that, or plane some of it? I've got a Master Airscrew razor plane (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAA64&P=FR) that works amazingly well for the rough shaping.

-Chris

Dewalt Orbital sander! :D

[JustPlaneChris]

Dewalt Orbital sander! :D
Cheater!! LOL ;)

-Chris

[Wren1702]

Cheater!! LOL ;)

-Chris


HAHAHAHAHA

:D :D :D :D

Not bad for 3 days...even if I cheated! :p

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Wow.jpg

[Wren1702]

I did a quick mod tonight to add a detail. This is an Airborne Laser Tracker. (ALT). Here's a shot of the real deal:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/ALT2.jpg

This was built from the punch outs from the 1/4" balsa tail rotor pushrod support. They were simply stacked and glued.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Mod1.jpg
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Mod2.jpg

Then I sanded the mating surface that goes against the rotor housing.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Mod3.jpg
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Mod4.jpg

Finally, sand smooth and round the front.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Mod5.jpg

Glue it on and voila!....you have an ALT.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Mod6.jpg

[JustPlaneChris]

Yeah, you are really moving along! Of course (and we all know this) framing up the airframe is the fast part. The devil is in the details. :eek: But that's where the fun is too. :cool:

-Chris

[Gadget01]

Nice work! It's starting to look like some kind of rotary-powered air-vehicle :D

[bmaaa]

Hello,

I am also going to go FlybarLess on my Hurricane 550.

2 questions:

1 - Does a flybarLess system need STRONGER servos. I am indeed wondering if the Futaba S9650 Mini-servos (30 grammes, usualy recommended for the Hurricane 550) will be OK also with a flybarLess system or if I need in this case some stronger servos ?


2 - I think that I will instead go for the Robbe Helicommand RIGID system. It seems to be also able to provide some "auto-stability/auto-pilot " that the other electronic flybar systems don't ? Is it right ?

thanks

[Wren1702]

Can you use normal size servos in a Hurricane? I would want something a little stouter.

All flybarless units have a 2 or 3 axis gyro in them, so to some degree they all stabilize. Not all too familiar with the Heli-Command system.

Scratch built an Air Data Sensor today, What do you guys think?

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/AirData1.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/AirData2.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/4.jpg

The actual sensor:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/AirData2-1.jpg

[Cloud Cruiser]

Master Craftsman!

Robert

[HighNear90]

Can you use normal size servos in a Hurricane? I would want something a little stouter.


On the GAUI 550, the stock plastic frame has cutouts for standard servos, but I think ReadyHeli has some adapters for the mini-servos.

--Leo

[Wren1702]

Here's my Day 4 update. Spent a lot of time on the Air Data Sensor and boom. Wasn't all together crazy about my first try, so I reworked it a bit. :cool:

Other than that, built the stub wings, rocket pods (haven't glued the mounts to those yet) and started the stub wing ends/Tow missile mounts.

I brought it in from the"Man Cave" for some better shots...my son caught me in the act... :o

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Hardatwork.jpg


Here's the V2 version of the Air Data Sensor. I increased the size of the vane on the rear of it, added a tapered end on the shaft and added the second fixed pitot tube. I'm happy with this one.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/AirDataV2Shot2.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/V2AirData.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/AirDataV2.jpg


A shot from above and a shot of the start of the stub wing ends. (Pylons)

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Day4.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l218/wren1702/Wingtip.jpg

[bmaaa]

Yes I can use standard size servos also since I have the plastic frame. So what servo you recommend that will still be not too heavy ?

[Rickn816]

Yes I can use standard size servos also since I have the plastic frame. So what servo you recommend that will still be not too heavy ?

Generally, with these systems, you want fast servos. I converted three machines from the HBK2 to the E-Smart (550) and used the original servos with no problems.

Remember, when you remove the flybar and all of those links and control arms, you are removing a considerable amount of weight. Further, you will improve the overall efficiency of your drive system because you don't have the wind resistance of the flybar and the additional friction from the links.

Rick

[Dogwoodtheone]

Sensor looks really good Alan, very nice touch.

[Spidious]

Alan, those little extra details are what really bring out a copter ! Yours look great !

[Rickn816]

Sorry. I've been throught this thread three times.

Where did you get the fuselage?

Thanks.

Rick

[Wren1702]

Sorry. I've been throught this thread three times.

Where did you get the fuselage?

Thanks.

Rick

The only place you can get it is through Starwood Scale Models:

http://www.starwoodmodels.com/

[Greybird]

Yikes! That is expensive for a pile of un-finished balsa wood. $11 dollars more will get you the fiberglass, beautifully painted Coast Guard fuselage. I think Starwood needs to back-down their price.

[Spidious]

Actually it is kind of in-expensive. Most of the money I am sure is tied up into the actual design of it. And I am sure it takes a while to laser cut out all the patterns. Laser cutting just can't be beat for accuracy anymore. The old way was a stamp out pattern, which leaved a lot to be desired.

[JustPlaneChris]

Yikes! That is expensive for a pile of un-finished balsa wood. $11 dollars more will get you the fiberglass, beautifully painted Coast Guard fuselage. I think Starwood needs to back-down their price.Coast Guard... Cobra? From where? :confused:

Besides, where's the fun in plunking a set of mechanics into an already-built-and-painted fuselage? ;)

-Chris

[Greybird]

Coast Guard... Cobra? From where? :confused:

Besides, where's the fun in plunking a set of mechanics into an already-built-and-painted fuselage? ;)

-Chris
Hey Chris, I like building stuff, but, from what I have seen the kit is pretty basic, requiring a lot of work. You can't tell me Spidi's heli doesn't look freakin awesome...

[Wren1702]

Don't forget, part of the purchase price goes to the designers family, he was killed in a helicopter crash.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qn4188/is_20070825/ai_n19491064

[Spidious]

What Coast Guard painted fuselage ?

[Rickn816]

The only place you can get it is through Starwood Scale Models:

http://www.starwoodmodels.com/

Yikes. The Top-Flite 1/5th Cessna 182 is $200.

Thanks.

Rick

[Wren1702]

Yikes. The Top-Flite 1/5th Cessna 182 is $200.

Thanks.

Rick

Where did you find a fixed wing on there?