Some Raptor parts questions...

[Andrew McGregor]

So, my Raptor had a problem today. The motor (big Hacker inrunner) seized, taking the ESC, flybar and main gear with it (fortunately, it was at spool-up).

Now for the problem: it's a Raptor 50 v1 conversion. What do I do about the main gear assembly? I doubt I'll find a new motor with a long enough shaft to fit my existing pinion to the v2 assembly.

So, what should I do?

Do v2 main gears fit in the v1 style undriven tail assembly?

Can I fit the one-way upside down somehow and get a driven tail with the main gear below the tail drive pulley?

[RC Man]

I had a Hacker B50XL that I ran on my E620 but it burned out after about 20 flights. Those old motors just are not durable enough for a modern high powered 30/50 size helicopter. As I recall the V1 and V2 gears are interchangeable.

I had an old Raptor EP conversion also and converted it to an E620. Most of the V1 and V2 head and tail parts will work. It takes about $100 to $150 parts to do the conversion. Then you will have the latest design that is much better than any of the old conversions.

You can download the E550/E620 manual to see what parts you need http://www.acehobby.com/ace/manual.htm


If you need a motor I would suggest the Scorpion HK4025. They make several Kv options so you can select what you need.


:) :cool:

[Andrew McGregor]

So, am I correct in thinking that these are the required parts?

pv0544 main gear 111t
pv0545 pinion 9t
pv0552 linkage rods
pv0553 frame spacers
pv0554 elevator lever
pv0555 elevator arm
pv0665 aileron lever
pv0557 servo tray
pv0558 main frame
pv0560 lower frame
pv0561 frame base
pv0562 battery bracket
pv0563 skid adaptor
pv0574 motor mount

[RC Man]

You don’t need PV0553 frame spacers – they are included with PV0558 main frame. The metal frame spacers (PV0567) are a nice upgrade.

No one uses the PV0560 carbon lower frame because of the crazy high price. The aluminum lover frame PV0559 is the one to get.

I sure wish someone would make a good G10 aftermarket frame for the Raptor E550/E620.

I never use PV0562. That just plugs the back of the battery box. I like to install the battery from the back so I never use that part.

You will also need the tail control rod (PV0551). Is you have a titan boom it will be the correct length and you can use 620mm blades. If you keep the old 50 boom you will have to cut the rod and can only use 600mm blades.

You may also want some new ball bearings.


:) :cool:

[Andrew McGregor]

Yup, bearings and such I can get. Thanks for the info.

I have a boom-mounted tail servo, so I think I'm OK for control rods. How long is a Titan boom? There's so much aftermarket stuff on this heli already I have no idea what boom I have. I've had the heli three years and never had to do anything to it bar lubrication, and I bought it used.

[RC Man]

The Titan and E620 both have the same boom. It is about 20 or 25mm longer than a Raptor 50 boom so you can use longer blades. The longer boom also requires a longer blet. My favorites are Rotor Tech 610mm main blades and Century 92mm tail blades.

That’s reminds me that the newer Raptors have a slightly longer tail fin so you can use 92mm blades without digging them in the ground. If you have aftermarket tail fins you probably already have the longer fin.

:) :cool:

[swatson144]

Titan boom 26 1/8" long and kinda silver gray in color

R50 is 25 5/16 long and black.

Steve

[Andrew McGregor]

Thanks... now I can check which my fluro orange and yellow boom is :-)

(you can see why I can't figure it out without the numbers...)

That implies a Titan boom is 660 mm and an R50 boom is 630mm... thanks.

[jamesppp]

Mavrikk(Taiwan Hobby?) or some other aftermarket mfg. should cut some G-10 or Carbon bottom frame sets for the Raptors. I bet they could sell them for 30% of the OEM part price and still make a stroke on them.

I would also like for the bottom of the lower frames to have a flat surface facing up toward the battery pack so that velcro would have some surface area to stick to.

RC Man, great idea to leave the back plate out of the bottom frames. That will help me installing my 2 pack battery setup. It is a little hard wedging the rear pack in from the side...That mod would make a flat bottom plate more important so I would feel comfortable when playing with the piro rate on my 770 gyro. A few points of expo can make the piro rate crazy...and I dont want to be slinging battery packs out the azz end of my 620.

Do you have your battery straps around the side frame pieces or up between the sides so you are tightening them only around the pack and bottom plate?

Jimmy

[Andrew McGregor]

So, I've decided to go with the same style conversion as I had, but with driven tail, moving the motor mount up a bit with some spacers. Reason is, I've only got a plastic head, so there is no point going for crazy power. I'll save the e620 for later... not much later, though.

So, I'm going with a 5s setup, using a Hyperion S3520-14. The motor is supposedly a nutbar 3d setup for the Hurricane 550, and I can gear it right for 1850 on a Raptor, so it should be a very decent sport flyer. It's 60% more power than I had, which can't be bad...

Anyhow, thanks for the help folks, and we shall see what a really light Raptor can do on 5s...

[Andrew McGregor]

Well... it's pretty much bolting together other than a bit of frame modding...

[jamesppp]

Well... it's pretty much bolting together other than a bit of frame modding...


How about some pics..You arent using Hyperion servos on that bird are you? I have some of the DS-20xx coreless motor ones coming in today of tomorrow for the Outrage 550 I have ordered.

Im using the DS-20FMD's on my 620 Raptor.

Jimmy

[Andrew McGregor]

No, I'm using Hitec digitals. This is a really old heli I bought used... it was originally converted to electric using NiCd packs! The servos are original.

I would be using Hyperion servos on a new 600-class, for sure.