Villain IV (was: RC Beginner Boat)

[daGurnman]

Okay... decided on the Villain IV! Looks like a winner... as long as I am
the only one racing!!! Thanks for ALL the help in making my decision. You
guys are great!

Gonna run stock until I figure out what is going on here.

Lubrication Question: I see two 'nipples', one on each drive shaft between
the motor and the box holding the receiver. I have a T-type hose that is
for lubing that, but to lube that shaft in the nipple, it makes more sense
to use one hose for each shaft and do it twice. Any other lub points?
Also, it says to oil the motor bearings. I'm concerned about getting oil
on the internal part of the motor. Is this the bearing on the center of
the motor, the enternal shaft, toward the front of the boat? What about a
rear bearing??? The rear of the motor looks sealed.

Watertight Question: It was suggested to run a bead of Vaseline around the
seal of the top removable section of the boat and the hull. Looks like a
need a LOT more sealing than that!!! There is a clear cover over the
receiver in the aft of the hull, and this cover is loose. Do I need secure
and/or seal that? Maybe a piece of foam between the top of the clear
receiver cover and the removable top of the boat to sort of press down on
the clear cover? What about the ESC? Do I enclose that?

The local guys (not THAT local) had the brass props and shaft upgrade in
stock. I will probably go with that, after I figure out the basics.

Thanks in advance. -gurn

[harry m.]

I should keep my nose out! But here goes, the Villian is a LOT of Revamping cause of outdrive, tranny, motors and the cheapest way to make a go of it is a 700-8.4, 442 prop, flex drive for surface and 16-1700cells with extended strut of 3" with rudder being 4" long ( both ) and trim tabs being 1 1/4" wide and 3/4" long with 3/8" l on the transom. Now u have a Boat. U can make all u r own hardware except prop. If u need a picture, send me u r email and u can take it from there. Speed about 28mph. If u don't care for Villian , there is a cat at 22" long and 6" wide made by Terry Davis of h2oracing in Chewsterfield, Mich which is low profile and will fly. Just trying to help u out with Lot of experience and a lot of boats. I am retired, so no affliation what so ever. I like to have u r hardearned buck not be wasted. have a good day!!

[boris]

I've had ok success with running a bead of silicon around the edges of the
hatch. You can then use the vaseline to stop the silicon from sticking to
the other side. Put the hatch (with silicon) back on the boat (where the
vaseline is) and you've just made your own watertight seal (after the
silicon cures)

Rob


"daGurnman" <dagurnNO_SPAMMAman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9329466AFAA2AdagurnNOSPAMMAmanhot@65.24.2. 11...
> Okay... decided on the Villain IV! Looks like a winner... as long as I am
> the only one racing!!! Thanks for ALL the help in making my decision.
You
> guys are great!
>
> Gonna run stock until I figure out what is going on here.
>
> Lubrication Question: I see two 'nipples', one on each drive shaft
between
> the motor and the box holding the receiver. I have a T-type hose that is
> for lubing that, but to lube that shaft in the nipple, it makes more sense
> to use one hose for each shaft and do it twice. Any other lub points?
> Also, it says to oil the motor bearings. I'm concerned about getting oil
> on the internal part of the motor. Is this the bearing on the center of
> the motor, the enternal shaft, toward the front of the boat? What about a
> rear bearing??? The rear of the motor looks sealed.
>
> Watertight Question: It was suggested to run a bead of Vaseline around
the
> seal of the top removable section of the boat and the hull. Looks like a
> need a LOT more sealing than that!!! There is a clear cover over the
> receiver in the aft of the hull, and this cover is loose. Do I need
secure
> and/or seal that? Maybe a piece of foam between the top of the clear
> receiver cover and the removable top of the boat to sort of press down on
> the clear cover? What about the ESC? Do I enclose that?
>
> The local guys (not THAT local) had the brass props and shaft upgrade in
> stock. I will probably go with that, after I figure out the basics.
>
> Thanks in advance. -gurn

[Andrew Gilchrist]

see the speed kits page at www.fastelectrics.com

we can package a kit of all the correct parts when you wish to upgrade the Villian

[Grant Edwards]

In article <Xns9329466AFAA2AdagurnNOSPAMMAmanhot@65.24.2.11>, daGurnman wrote:

> Okay... decided on the Villain IV! Looks like a winner... as
> long as I am the only one racing!!! Thanks for ALL the help in
> making my decision. You guys are great!

I just finished putting the vinyl stickers on a brand new
Villain IV (still have a couple rails to glue on), and I'm
trying to figure out how to put a name on the transom. I found
some clear vinyl film that I can run through an ink jet, so I'm
going to try using that with a couple coats of clear acrylic...

I'm also wondering if the factory decal/stickers need sealing
at all?

The boat's going to be run in salt water...

--
Grant Edwards grante Yow! Do I hear th'
at SPINNING of various
visi.com WHIRRING, ROUND, and WARM
WHIRLOMATICS?!

[Dirtnap]

Stickers and decals are fine without sealing.
The drive line needs more attention in saltwater.
Lube that baby every time you are done running it!
Try to keep the motors and batteries dry too, seawater eats
that stuff for lunch.
If it does get wet, rinse with fresh water and lube when dry.
Have fun!

P.S. had mine up to 47mph once, flipped too much any faster
than that. Great boat to experiment with. I'll post pictures if you want.
Later,
John


"Grant Edwards" <grante@visi.com> wrote in message
news:3eb81b8a$0$178$a1866201@newsreader.visi.com.. .
> In article <Xns9329466AFAA2AdagurnNOSPAMMAmanhot@65.24.2.11>, daGurnman
wrote:
>
> > Okay... decided on the Villain IV! Looks like a winner... as
> > long as I am the only one racing!!! Thanks for ALL the help in
> > making my decision. You guys are great!
>
> I just finished putting the vinyl stickers on a brand new
> Villain IV (still have a couple rails to glue on), and I'm
> trying to figure out how to put a name on the transom. I found
> some clear vinyl film that I can run through an ink jet, so I'm
> going to try using that with a couple coats of clear acrylic...
>
> I'm also wondering if the factory decal/stickers need sealing
> at all?
>
> The boat's going to be run in salt water...
>
> --
> Grant Edwards grante Yow! Do I hear th'
> at SPINNING of various
> visi.com WHIRRING, ROUND, and
WARM
> WHIRLOMATICS?!

[Mark Stevens]

"Grant Edwards" <grante@visi.com> wrote in message
news:3eb81b8a$0$178$a1866201@newsreader.visi.com.. .
> In article <Xns9329466AFAA2AdagurnNOSPAMMAmanhot@65.24.2.11>, daGurnman
wrote:
>
> > Okay... decided on the Villain IV! Looks like a winner... as
> > long as I am the only one racing!!! Thanks for ALL the help in
> > making my decision. You guys are great!
>
> I just finished putting the vinyl stickers on a brand new
> Villain IV (still have a couple rails to glue on), and I'm
> trying to figure out how to put a name on the transom. I found
> some clear vinyl film that I can run through an ink jet, so I'm
> going to try using that with a couple coats of clear acrylic...
>
> I'm also wondering if the factory decal/stickers need sealing
> at all?
>
> The boat's going to be run in salt water...
>
> --
In agreement with last post keep it well lubed and rinse off with fresh
water after running on saltwater, as it corrodes prop-shafts like hell...I
have run mine on salt water so speak from experience.
Mark.