Advice on new touring car

[Mattus]

My old Yokomo YR4 is getting increasingly difficult to find parts for, so
I've decided I need a new car. I'm looking at the £100 to £150 bracket for a
chassis, and am thinking about:
Yokomo MR4TC (£100)
Associated TC3 (£150)
Schumacher Mission (£150)
Any thoughts on these cars? Would it be better to go for the cheaper Yokomo
car and upgrade later, or just buy a dearer car straight away? Oh, and can
anyone in the UK advise me on the spares situation for any of these cars?
How easy is it to get parts?

Thanks,
Matt Wood

[Zach]

> My old Yokomo YR4 is getting increasingly difficult to find parts for, so
> I've decided I need a new car. I'm looking at the £100 to £150 bracket for a
> chassis, and am thinking about:
> Yokomo MR4TC (£100)
> Associated TC3 (£150)
> Schumacher Mission (£150)
> Any thoughts on these cars? Would it be better to go for the cheaper Yokomo
> car and upgrade later, or just buy a dearer car straight away? Oh, and can
> anyone in the UK advise me on the spares situation for any of these cars?
> How easy is it to get parts?


Get the Associated. I have one, and even the racer version is an
awsome car. It comes with bearings, body, tyres, and wheels. It also
is a very capable racer.

[Mattus]

Yeah .. I see that Associated are replacing the off-road B3 with the new B4
... any chance of a new touring car from them in the near future? TC4
perhaps?

Thanks,
Matt

[mykrowyre]

> My old Yokomo YR4 is getting increasingly difficult to find parts for, so
> I've decided I need a new car. I'm looking at the £100 to £150 bracket for a
> chassis, and am thinking about:
> Matt Wood

Hey Matt, check out the TC3. Shaft drive is really great. It's not
as quiet as the belts, but you will never mess with it, ever. As for
the handling, the car handles great right out of the box. The V-Rage
tires are a joke but keep them for screwing around.

BTW: I've been racing a "racer" kit and I think I like it better than
the team kit. All that aluminum is heavier and the aluminum battery
bar and drive shaft are great for accidentally shorting your battery
pack. Also, the composite CVDs that come with the racer kit are
excellent. They wont bend, and if you break one you can get a set of
4 for a few dollars. I would never switch back to aluminum CVDs. And
the graphite? Nahh..I'll pass. I always get glitching with a graphite
chassis (graphite is slightly conductive).

I've been racing offroad for years and just started racing touring
cars. I held 1st place through qualifying in only my third race in
sportman stock with the stock racer kit in stock configuration (except
for a set of belted slicks). I lost the main though, someone T-boned
me and knocked me off the track :( The car handled great right out of
the box. I love it and have since sold off all of my offroad stuff.

One thing to watch are the ball links that go into the steering
knuckles. Put some shoe-goo on them before installing them, because
when they loosen up (and they will) they will rip from the steering
knuckle in a crash. I've seen this happen a dozen times... but after
shoe-goo'ing the balls in (as locktite) I have not had it happen once.

cya, -tom