*** Logo 600 3D Build Thread ***

[Jam Rectified]

Just bought myself a Logo 6003D kit so I thought I would see if there was much interest in a build thread...I'll use this to document the build and ask any questions that I have.
I know the Finless vids are excellent and give you a lot of info and I have watched them myself but I also like to see pictures so you guys might aswell?

Feel free to chip in with any suggestions / advice / questions etc or if you want some specific pictures or details then I will try to help out..

I won't be rushing this as I don't have so much spare time at the moment so no nagging me OK :cool:

I am heading for a 10S setup (Haven't got the batteries yet)
Z50A 800 (780Kv) Motor
CC HV85 ESC
3 x futaba 9252 cyclic servos
401 / 9254 tail control
620mm NHP Razor blades

Along with the kit, which I ordered from http://www.revolutionmodels.co.uk/ (I am in no way affiliated with them) I also ordered the Mikado Futaba servo arms which are apparently required (4021), the additional counter bearing which is recommended for outrunner moters (4134), a 13T pinion for the motor (4213) and the cfc tail belt tensioner (4175)..Very friendly and helpful service from Rev models, ordered Saturday and arrived Tuesday :)

Here is a few pics of box and inside..Sorry I didn't bother snapping the canopy..

[Jam Rectified]

As suggested in the Finless Bob build videos I started out by having a close inspection of the plastic frames...I was slightly disappointed to see that there was a fair amount of flashing from the moulding process that needed sorting out...Its not a big deal and I just used some 600 grit wet and dry paper and went all over it...Took about 20 mins to do both frame halves but it was definitely worth the effort to tidy it up and get rid of the sharp edges..

Things I like about the manual:
1. Little scale drawings of all the bolts and nuts and bearings etc to make sure you use the right bits...
2. Very clear what you need to get from each bag..

Things I don't like about the manual:
1. There have been some changes to the kit - metal motor mount etc which slightly effect the hardware being used but the manual hasn't been updated to show that.
2. There is one manual covering 500DX/3D and 600DX/3D so whilst there are some pages that are model specific 6003D tail assembly etc, there are also others that are a kind of hybrid and it doesn't make it totally clear..
3. The first job of putting the frames together uses a few different size bolts...Some are labelled on the diagram in the manual but others are not...it turns out to be pretty obvious (I hope) but I can't understand why they weren't all labelled..seems inconsistent..

Anyway...back to the build...the 2 belt tensioners that sit in the frames are dead simple to put together, 4 bearings, 4 plastic spacers and the little metal rod that holds them in place...Everything fitted together very well indeed with no binding or slop...As mentioned in the build vids, make sure that the little raised part on the plastic spacers is facing the bearing and sitting on the inner race (see pic)..
Other than that putting the frames together is pretty straight forward..a little fiddly but hey ho...Shoe Goo to hold the main shaft bearing in, loctite in the metal to metal joints..

I did have one query..there are 3 aluminium supports that fit in the frames at the bottom, these are hexagonal in cross section..(Like on a raptor but longer) Well I was quite surprised to find that the section of the frame they sit in was not hexagonal but just round :confused: I studied the drawing in the manual and that does show a hexagonal cross section also but my frames just had a round hole...Its probably of no consequence but I wondered if thee was a reason for it or if anyone else noticed it...I am a bit of a stickler for the detail!!!

Anyway...I've bored you enough..have some more pictures :cool: Frames are all put together and they seem dead solid but nice and light..

[brian94066]

CooL! :eek:

[p4ddy]

very nice.

[Greybird]

Hey Jam, Glad you decided on a build thread. :D

[ShuNut]

Heeeeeeeeey, congrats Dude ;) .

I'm sure my frames are hexagonal, but not sure, shall i be not too lazy, get up and look ? .......... Dam it..hang on ..............

Ok, just took 2 bolts out and you cant tell cus the metal hexagonal thing is still inside and wont come out, but thinking back i'm sure when i put one of the hexagonal things in i tested to see if it would turn or not & it didn't, so i'm sure my frames are hexagonal, plus if i only take out one bolt it doesn't spin.

Wonder if you got a DuD, or if they for some unknown reason changed the design. I Hope my new kit doesn't have duds (although i wont be using the frames as old one if fine)

Sucks to hear the Manuel is still crap, why cant they just do separate manuals for the different models ? i mean how hard is it ? plus it would save paper.

Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build.

Peace

[p4ddy]

They can do it, but i reckon they'd put the kit price up another £20 to get back the cost :censored: as if it aint dear enough already :eek:

[p4ddy]

I'm sooo looking foward to the maiden & it's not even MY heli. Will it be using 2 x 5s Zippys ? I want ShuNut to hit 150 flights & then say how they're holding up.

[laughingstill]

I built a Logo 500 and 600 and I really cannot remember if the holes were round or hexagonal :confused: It won't matter though as the frames are not dependent on whether the holes are one way or the other. I am glad you are doing a build thread, enjoy the build and have a great maiden :D ......Ron

BTW I would go with the outrage batteries when you decide on buying some. Also what are you using to power the electronics?

[Jam Rectified]

Thanks everybody....I haven't made any progress today..just got in after and 11 hour day at work...
Re the hexagonal holes...I didn't think it would make any difference and when I tightened the bolts I don't think the hex pieces moved so maybe there is a little hex section inside..Not a biggy so hey ho..

Lipos...Well I have heard that those outrage ones are very good but they are also damn expensive....I am going to start of nice and easy with this big heli so I am most likely going to get 4 of those 5S Zippy Lipos and rig them up in series...I don't do 3D so I am not after extreme performance...I may even use this as an AP ship in the future...

Good question about how am I going to power the electronics...Well I know that the 401/9254 and the 9252s are only rated for 4.8V...so that part is simple...But really haven't decided yet whether to go for a ubec or something or a separate pack and a regulator...The way I see it is that the separate back is all well and good but it is a bit extra weight...a ubec or something means that you might lose control if the battery voltage gets low..but as someone has rightly said..if thats the case then you are pretty screwed anyway...I guess that if I think forward in terms of this becoming an AP ship then I will have quite a few things to power so a separate pack / regulator would be the way to go for that but...
I don't know..what do people think..I haven't ordered the lipos or the ubec or receiver pack / regulator yet....
Cheers
Tim

[ShuNut]

I'd go with the separate power supply if i were you.
They both have there advantages and disadvantages but for me the separate is a much safer option.

With my logo after a few weeks i was hovering in normal, flicked into idle 1, then exactly as i flicked into idle 2 the motor cut, heli was about 20ft up and i was like oh sh**, so i just let it come down and flared just before it landed, all was well with the landing.
Walked over to the heli and saw one of the lipo wires had came off, bad soilder joint. So if i hadn't been using a separate lipo a crash would have occurred.

The extra weight is nothing, i use small 1700mAh lipos with i got from u-hobbies (mad cheep), i got them not knowing if they'd be good enough but thought hey ill just em for something else if not, but they work fine, i normally do around 6 flights of each pack but most i did was 9 and still taking only around 75% out.
I read around seeing what others prefer before deciding but its seems like 50\50.

Peace

[arclite5]

Logo 600's are so light and powerful that the extra battery for powering electronics has just about zero effect on the flying characteristics..

[rroback]

I thought my 600 was the easiest build I've ever done.

Rhett

[osterizer]

Mine, too. It costs a bit, but it went together perfectly, and I'm still impressed with the quality of manufacture of all the parts. Very, very nice helicopter.

[OICU812]

Nice thread :) Personally I would save abit more dough though and go with some Outrage packs, the 600 is a beast with the right combos. If you can't afford it and it is not an option, then certainly consider it in the future, lipos make a huge difference! :D

[blade strike]

I do have to say this is my true dream heli, maybe santa will be good to me this year :o

Nice build btw :)

[p4ddy]

I do have to say this is my true dream heli, maybe santa will be good to me this year :o

Nice build btw :)



You'd better leave out for him a Whole bottle of single malt whiskey & a whole box of mince pies ;) :D & also start doing EVERYTHING for your wife :p :D

[blade strike]

You'd better leave out for him a Whole bottle of single malt whiskey & a whole box of mince pies ;) :D & also start doing EVERYTHING for your wife :p :D


lol, you have a good idea there :cool:

[laughingstill]

Any progress??

[Jam Rectified]

Any progress??

I have been tied up with work but am hoping to get some more of the build done tomorrow...watch this space..
Cheers
Tim

[Jam Rectified]

Well I have got the tail assembly finished now (with the exception of messing around JB welding the links to the ends of the rods...I'll post some pics later but I have to say that the tail assembly is very sweet indeed and goes together very easily with no slop at all...I'm very impressed :cool: I also like the look of the black cf tail case and the black boom....it all looks very sexy indeed...
I installed the CF tail belt tensioner from the get go..(I had to get one upgrade Greybird :p ) so I'll have some pictures of that too....This is a really exciting build and its going together very nicely indeed so I am a happy bunny..

I have a question though...with the tail blade grips and everything all hooked up everything moves smoothly with no binding or notchiness...but it doesn't move as easily as I thought it might do...I guess this will free up a bit after a few flights but just wanted to see whether anyone else found this?

I had a test fit of the boom in the frames and man this is going to be a luvly looking heli!!!!!

Pics and more info to follow later..
Cheers
Tim

[laughingstill]

It will loosen up and break in nicely. All of my Logos did that on the first or second flight. My Logo 600 did it on the first flight.....Ron

[Jam Rectified]

Thanks Ron and thanks for all the other replies..I have been a bit tied up with work so hadn't got much progress but I finished the tail assembly yesterday..

What can I say...Well...despite my initial concern about the quality of the moulding on the frame sides everything else has been absolutely spot on :cool: I have not had to do any sanding of any of the metal or plastic parts and the tail has gone together very smoothly indeed..I have previously put together a trex 450 SE tail, a raptor tail and an upgraded Quick UK rappy tail and I have to say that the Logo 6003D tail unit is the tightest (i.e. no slop) and smoothest I have ever built...This really is a marvel of engineering and I am well happy..
My only gripe about the build so far is that the manual is not the best by a long shot...
I don't know if anyone else had this problem or not but when I was installing the bearings and washers in the tail blade grips, the manual calls for a 5x8x0.5 spacer between the radial bearing and the thrust bearing set..Now the scale drawing of these in the manual which dictates what items come from what bag clearly is not of a 5x8x0.5 spacer (Pics are included) if for no other reason than the internal diameter is too small for the tail hub to fit through! As it happened I only had one pair of spacers left from that particular bag and although I didn't measure them I figured they must be the right ones...So again the manual is really letting down the quality of this heli...
Everything else was fine though, everything was greased and ca'd as required and all went together smoothly...I found when screwing in the threaded brass tail slider unit into its plastic housing that it helped to put the tail shaft on to help line it up...
I had also purchased the carbon tail belt tensioner that replaces the stock plastic one...it just seemed to make more sense to me as it is a bearing and not just a plastic sleeve and sits nearer the tail pulley...
I have attached a raft of pics so people can see what all this looks like...I have to say that I am very impressed with the quality of the kit and its all coming together nicely..
Anyway, here is the good bit (pics) :)
Thanks for reading.
Cheers
Tim

[Jam Rectified]

Nice thread :) Personally I would save abit more dough though and go with some Outrage packs, the 600 is a beast with the right combos. If you can't afford it and it is not an option, then certainly consider it in the future, lipos make a huge difference! :D

Hi Shawn,
Appreciate your input :) But let me ask you a question...If you were only looking to be doing some mild flying and then potentially convert into an AP ship then would it really be worth going for some outrage(ously priced :p ) packs? I know the higher "C" ratings will mean the packs will potentially last longer but when I think I can get at least a couple of sets of Zippy's for the same price then I have to think hard..
I respect your opinion on this and not trying to put down the outrage packs at all but I am just not sure that they would be required for the sort of flying I want from this heli...What do you think? I am more interested in duration than balls on fire 3D...
Cheers
Tim

[Greybird]

Jam, Do me a favor. Go to www.rtlfasteners.com and replace ALL of those 2mm flathead screws with hexheads.I think most are on the ball links. I know of 8(unless they changed something) in the rotor head in the flybar area. (The ones that hold the bearings in will need to be ground slightly for clearance.). I hate to see flathead screws on a heli. :(

[Jam Rectified]

Well I might do in the future but I don't want to wait for them to come through so will continue with these for now...They actually seem to be pretty decent for flat head screws with a nice deep slot...I prefer them to the little crossheads anyway but hex heads are best...I'll stick with what I have for now and get some hex heads when I have the opportunity....

[ShuNut]

Hey Jam, good to see your getting on with it.
In the 3rd pic i put my bearings facing the other way to keep the oil from shooting out. No biggie though.

outrage(ously priced ) packs
LoL, I like that one.

I think you'll be fine with the packs your getting and your flying style.

[Jam Rectified]

Thats a good point about those bearings...I wasn't sure but as they aren't on the grips or anything like that I thought I would leave them on that way...at least I can re oil them easily enough (plus when I did consider taking them out I probably would have banged them up a bit). If they did have to go a specific way then one would hope the manual would be clearer on that but don't start me on the manual.......
I thought I saw on one of the vids that the new kits were coming with holes in the landing bows for set screws to hold the skids in...well mine didn't have any and think it seems a bit terminal to super glue them in...if you break one bow or one skid then you need to replace the whole lot...I think I'll have a look to see if I have any set screws myself that I can use...I think they must have forgotten about the skids in the design stage :p

[Jam Rectified]

Hey Jam, good to see your getting on with it.
In the 3rd pic i put my bearings facing the other way to keep the oil from shooting out. No biggie though.


LoL, I like that one.

I think you'll be fine with the packs your getting and your flying style.


I do wonder why they aren't also sealed bearings like 90% of the others....Ah well...there is always modelfixings for some replacements if I run into trouble...
I got my plastic m3 bolts for the landing gear from them..great service..

[Jam Rectified]

:censored: I just watched the finless vid for the landing gear and his kit comes with the landing gear with the set screws!!! I know it isn't a big deal but does this mean I have an old kit? Is there anything else I need to look out for? I do have the metal motor mount.....I would have hoped that by buying a kit last week that it would have been the most upto date kit...I don't suppose I can get a new set of landing bows and set screws sent out can I?

[Greybird]

:censored: I just watched the finless vid for the landing gear and his kit comes with the landing gear with the set screws!!! I know it isn't a big deal but does this mean I have an old kit? Is there anything else I need to look out for? I do have the metal motor mount.....I would have hoped that by buying a kit last week that it would have been the most upto date kit...I don't suppose I can get a new set of landing bows and set screws sent out can I?
E-mail somebody. My Logo 10 came with the set-screw version also.

[ShuNut]

Jam i think its been on and off with the screws on the LG, my 1st kit didn't have any and i got my new kit friday, fastlad ordered it direct so it must be the newest kit and its also doesn't have any holes for the LG, i read on HF a guys 1st kit had them then his 2nd kit months later didn't.
Just use a tiny amount of glue so you will be able to get em off it needed.


Other Points:
1. Know what you mean about the manual, not looked at both to see if its any better but the bits i've looked at were confusing, still seems like it needs loads of work, didn't help me for the bits i needed so far, luckily i've done it before so its not so confusing.
2. I'm disseminated that the updated idler tail pulley is not now standard in the kit, when i didn't see it in mine i was peed off @ Mikado, the saying that the logos dont have upgrades is now no longer true. I know not too many have the belt jumping off the pulley but this new one fixes it therefore should be standard in the kit.

At least the canopy is thicker, you should have seen the 1st ones :eek:

Greybird, theres hardly and flat screws on the 600, i think the very early ones had lots but not sure.

[Greybird]

ShuNut. There should not be ANY flat head screws on a heli. I twisted one off on a mixing arm removing it to change to a different hole. I had to replace the arm. They are soft metal. The 2mm hexheads from RTL are all hardened and will NOT twist off.

[Jam Rectified]

Guys this is interesting...I just sent an e mail to the helpful sales chap at Revolution models and he has replied very promptly saying "I have checked part numbers and the undercarriage part has not changed for many years. "...So I am a little confused...I watch the finless 5003D video and it has the new bows but then it appears that both of Shunuts, and my 6003D do not have the new bows...its not a US / UK difference is it?
GB - You say your Logo 10 comes with the set screw LG..is that the same size as that for the 500 and 600? It really isn't a big deal but just seems a bit odd thats all.

Shunut - did you have to remove some plastic material from the corners of your washout unit to stop the arms binding very slightly on the corners? I have just had to and I notice from the Mercuriell 6003D build vids that he had to aswell...Thats a bit p*ss poor really...
Well I have done all the main gear work, got the shaft fitted and the tail boom etc..Have just made up the swashplate and the washout so I am heading in the right direction...I am just waiting for the JB weld on the boom supports to set and then might see about getting the tension adjusted and then the back end is good to go except for fitting the servo..

I know it would probably be easier if I had left the tail off for now but I am and end results kind of person and like to see it come together as I go..

Sorry you missed out on the carbon tail belt tensioner...I had to order it separately...its not expensive and there isn't mich to fitting it...as you may or maynot be able to tell from the pics it sits a lot nearer to the tail shaft pulley than the stock unit..

I put the swashplate and the washout on the main shaft and they fit like a glove...move up and down perfectly smoothly :D

I think there won't be so many pics to post later as I forgot whilst I was building but I will post what I have later....

What do people do for their canopy painting...If I did it myself then it was just be bright orange or something boring...I want it nice and bright but am wondering if I can find someone in the UK to give it a lovely paint job...any ideas / recommendations anyone?

[Jam Rectified]

Well I e mailed the helpful chap at revolution models back directing him towards the Finless build vids with the set screw landing gear and I got this reply:
"Hi Tim

strange. I do have some of the 2495 skids with a 3mm grub fitting.which I can send you FOC. Do you require anything else?

best regards

dave w "
So I am taking him up on his offer :cool: :) Isn't it really refreshing to find such excellent customer service like that...certainly brings a smile to my face...Many Thanks to Dave at Revolution Models. :) ..

[Greybird]

Nice!

[Jam Rectified]

Well damn..that was quick..They arrived this morning :D I love this service :cool:
To clarify..it seems that Mikado Part 2495 are the landing skid bows with the set screws and it says they are for the Logo 10/16/20 but they are the exact same size as the ones on the 600 and the holes are also in the same place for an added bonus. :) Thanks again to Revolution Models for sending these out to me free of charge :)

[Greybird]

Tim.. If you CA'd the 2mm screws in, I would not remove them to change them out to hexheads. They WILL twist off.

[ShuNut]

I hear ya on the flat screws Grey and i agree !

Jam, i cant remember if i needed to cut bits off the washout but i most likely did, i had to do quite a bit of filing, sanding, and cutting so probably did, I'm using a lot of pts from the old kit on the rebuild which aren't damaged inclu the washout so i dont know if this ones any better.

Painting: Well i painted my 1st one myself which had LOADS of mistakes like paint peeling off when i pulled the masking tape of.

This time the exact same thing has happened and i've only just clicked as to the reason why, i didn't sand it down anywhere near enough as i should, but it easy really if you dont make the same mistakes as me, now i gotta bodge it to make it look ok.

[Jam Rectified]

Shu - you can buy a masking compound instead of tape and it just peels off really nicely..I used it on my trex450 canopy and it worked very well indeed....
I might try and find someone to paint it for me so I don't spoil it...

[Jam Rectified]

Tim.. If you CA'd the 2mm screws in, I would not remove them to change them out to hexheads. They WILL twist off.

OK..Good point...They did seem OK to me but I will be careful...
Cheers
Tim

[ShuNut]

Hey Jam Hows it been going in the past week ? you got any more done or you been too buzy :confused:

Got mine ready saturday, had quite a few dramas (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=96731), incl my landing gear blowing off while in the air, also i had one of my tail blades on backwards for 5 flights and didn't even know :o . its ok now though.

Hey did you order any Graphite-33 for the belt ? if so where from & how much ? I saw the UK links sent to you but just wondering which one you used, if any.

[Jam Rectified]

Hey Buddy...
I hadn't seen your post although I have ben out of action..I pulled a load of muscles in the back of my shoulder last week and have been on orders to take it easy and just rest...I am off on holiday for 2 weeks tomorrow so the wife wanted to make sure I was rested and healed...I saw an osteopath on Friday which did bugger all help and am seeing a chiropractor tomorrow morning before flying in the afternoon :eek: I think I have a trapped nerve or something..but don't worry, I'll be back to it..but to answer your question, I never ordered any of that graphite spray for the belt..I was going to suck it and see and get some if I needed it...
Anyway...going to read your thread and then I need to start packing or I'll get shot!
The build will continue on my return..
Cheers
Tim

[Greybird]

Can I have first dibs on this one if you lose interest, it sits for a year, and you sell it off in parts? ;)

[laughingstill]

Can I have first dibs on this one if you lose interest, it sits for a year, and you sell it off in parts? ;)
NO WAY!!! I got a Logo 600Vbar on the way and I am gonna need parts!!! ;) :D .......Ron

[osterizer]

I thought you sold yours, Ron. Or was that getting rid of a flybar one to get the Vbar version?

[Greybird]

It is VERY hard to keep track of what Ron has. He buys and sells more heli's than anyone I have seen. I think he has owned one or two of about every heli made. :D

[laughingstill]

It is VERY hard to keep track of what Ron has. He buys and sells more heli's than anyone I have seen. I think he has owned one or two of about every heli made. :D
:D Just about! I sold the 600 Flybar and got a 600 VBar on the way now.I like to try a bunch of different helis to keep my eyes open. Thinking about another Swift 55o too!!!

[osterizer]

Ha, well, can't fault him for that. I have a few myself, though not that many :). I like the flybarless one a lot myself, but I've not tried the one with the flybar. I'm very tempted myself to get a VBar for the Logo and bash the Swift to move the SK360 to it.

[laughingstill]

Look what showed up this weekend! :D

[osterizer]

Looks sweet, Ron :).

What motor is that?

[laughingstill]

Neu 1912H 1y. I have it for sale in the heli classifieds. I already had a Scorpion on the way.......Ron

[osterizer]

:) I have a 4025-630 on mine, and it works well, but I've not really flown it hard yet. I've been flying the Swift closer to its limits on a 3026, and it's acting like it might like a 4025 of its own. That's making me wonder if the Logo might wind up wanting a 4035 instead.

[ShuNut]

Looking good laughingstill, thats the v-bar yes ? if so wheres the pix of that beautiful head ? & whats that gyro looking thing by your lovely BLS 251 servo ?

[laughingstill]

Looking good laughingstill, thats the v-bar yes ? if so wheres the pix of that beautiful head ? & whats that gyro looking thing by your lovely BLS 251 servo ?
That is the gyro sensor for the Vbar next to the tail servo which is a 9256 BTW :) I will shoot some pics of the head........Ron

[ShuNut]

Opps My Bad, thought it was a bls :o

Gyro sensor ? ok, i didn't know the v-bar had a separate one, thought everything was all in the other box.

So hows it going, you flew it yet ?

[laughingstill]

Not yet as the lipos will be here next week.....Ron

[p4ddy]

I've just had an 0rg4sm

[Fusion-Pack]

Hey guys,

I am sorry if I interupted the thread. But I was wondering would any of you guys be interested in our 10s 5000 25C or 30C at a promotional price?

https://fusion-pack.com/giftshop.aspx?cat=120

PM or email us if you're interested.

[jenik]

Look what showed up this weekend! :D

I have to add one more too :-)

http://www.broucek.cz/flying/logo_small.jpg

[jamesppp]

:) I have a 4025-630 on mine, and it works well, but I've not really flown it hard yet. I've been flying the Swift closer to its limits on a 3026, and it's acting like it might like a 4025 of its own. That's making me wonder if the Logo might wind up wanting a 4035 instead.



Osterizer,

I was thinking about trying the new 4020 in my Swift. It looks like the perfect setup. They will need a lower Kv model for the higher voltage setups.

Ron,

The Logo is looking good. You going to maiden it this coming weekend??? :D


Jenik,

What voltage regulator are you using? Are you using a 3S pack with it???

Thanks,

Jimmy

[jenik]

Osterizer,

Jenik,

What voltage regulator are you using? Are you using a 3S pack with it???

Thanks,

Jimmy

I have 2s LiPol and Jeti MaxBEC (http://www.jetimodel.cz/eng/max-bec_en.html)

[Jam Rectified]

Can I have first dibs on this one if you lose interest, it sits for a year, and you sell it off in parts? ;)

Cheeky bugger :p A chaps got to have a holiday right..2 weeks in the Maldives went down very well indeed and even better was coming back and finding that they are getting close to progressing our appplication for immigration to Canada so they have asked us for a load of updated documents which takes a fair bit of time but I won't bore you with the details..Need to work out where I was upto with the build and continue...I was messing around trying to get the servos all working the right way before I fitted them but my 7chp seems to be having a load of trouble holding a charge which is a right pain..
I think I'll start building the head now whilst the battery charges...
I won't be giving this one up, just have to fit it in with other things :cool:
Cheers
Tim

[Greybird]

Jam, I still use that Tx. Go to www.CheapBatterypacks.com I bought a NIMH 2500mah battery that lasts forever in that Tx. It was less than $30.

[Jam Rectified]

Jam, I still use that Tx. Go to www.CheapBatterypacks.com I bought a NIMH 2500mah battery that lasts forever in that Tx. It was less than $30.

Thanks for the tip, I'll have a look...it does seem that the stock one just drains so quickly...
Thanks again
Tim

[jamesppp]

Where is the best place to buy a flybarless Logo 600?

[Kawasaki297]

Readyheli is the only US dealer for Logo helicopters now. Unless you can find someone selling off inventory they are your only option.

http://www.readyheli.com/Mikado_Helicopters_Logo_400_500_600_s/425.htm

[osterizer]

I got mine from HeliHobby as they sold out their stock, but they said they were out of them after that. I wouldn't get my hopes up for a sale- readyheli is probably going to be it.

Jimmy, you getting ready to pull the trigger? :D

[jamesppp]

I got mine from HeliHobby as they sold out their stock, but they said they were out of them after that. I wouldn't get my hopes up for a sale- readyheli is probably going to be it.

Jimmy, you getting ready to pull the trigger? :D


I hope not :eek:

I have pretty good willpower during daylight hours......but after dark my payPal finger really starts itching :D

[osterizer]

I hope not :eek:

I have pretty good willpower during daylight hours......but after dark my payPal finger really starts itching :D

Hehee, I bought half my hellis at around 1 a. m.....

[p4ddy]

so whats the situation so far with the build?

[Greybird]

Boxing it up for me? ;)

[Jam Rectified]

Boxing it up for me? ;)

Ha..No chance...I have been pondering over the head assembly..I have completed the main grip / head / spindle assembly but found that one of the blade grips quite happily falls under its own weight whereas the other one does not...Everything went together well and all the bearings seated nicely so I can't see any reason for the problem...There isn't any notchiness at all it is just one of the grips isn't as free moving as the other..so what do you reckon....take the head apart and reassemble or let it loosen up in flight?
Cheers
Tim

[osterizer]

If it's just a tad tighter than the other, then sure, I'd fly it. If it's actually tight tight, I'd dig into it, particularly if there's a possibility something's off center, like the flybar or dampers. You did lube the dampers and feathering shaft?

[Jam Rectified]

Well it is just a tad tighter but there was nothing in the instructions or finless vids about lubeing the spindle shaft or dampners so I didn't...
Was that wrong?
Cheers
Tim

[p4ddy]

I've not heard of lubing this area before either?? I lube the main shaft below the coller but that's OT & on a Trex 450.

[ShuNut]

I didn't lube mine either.
And thinking back my 1st attempt was the same as yours Jam, one nice a loose, T'other not so, i think i took it apart and reassembled and it was the same, like already said if only a bit tighter then its no biggie.

So wheres the pix ? this is a build thread no ? :p

[Jam Rectified]

Thanks for that info...re pics...everything is mental at the moment so I am just concentrating on finishing the build and not so much on the pics although I will try and get some done...
I need to do the flybar assembly and make up all the control rods etc and fit the servos and then I will be on to the electronics so I better decide what battery(s) to get etc...
Cheers
Tim


I didn't lube mine either.
And thinking back my 1st attempt was the same as yours Jam, one nice a loose, T'other not so, i think i took it apart and reassembled and it was the same, like already said if only a bit tighter then its no biggie.

So wheres the pix ? this is a build thread no ? :p

[p4ddy]

Anyone know what motor/esc combo to use on the 500? I don't want to get the hacker combo if it's pants & only suited to the high end Flightpower it say's it's for.

[osterizer]

Well it is just a tad tighter but there was nothing in the instructions or finless vids about lubeing the spindle shaft or dampners so I didn't...
Was that wrong?
Cheers
Tim

LOL I'm not the only one that does this :). The spindle shaft is mobile like any other part of the head, albeit not as much on the L600 3D as on others. A bit of silicone or lithium grease to the dampers and the feathering shaft will make the head smoother and keep the dampers from wearing as quickly.

[Jam Rectified]

LOL I'm not the only one that does this :). The spindle shaft is mobile like any other part of the head, albeit not as much on the L600 3D as on others. A bit of silicone or lithium grease to the dampers and the feathering shaft will make the head smoother and keep the dampers from wearing as quickly.

I am sure that you are not...I know it defintely needs doing on the rappys..
Cheers
Tim

[jamesppp]

I dont suppose that a Logo 500 witV-Bar head happens to come with the standard flybar head does it? If so, I could understand why the kit cost 70+ dollars more. You would think that withe the many fewer parts the flybarless head comes with, bearings etc that it would at most be the same price.

The canned info from Ready Heli doesnt specify. ...It is just wishful thinking on my part to hope it does..probably..anyway,

Ive started wanting a Logo. At first a 600 but battery prices are making me lean towards a 500, the V-Bar is very interesting and so I have begun checking them out. Maybe someone can talk me out of it... please.lol

Jimmy

[OICU812]

Anyone know what motor/esc combo to use on the 500? I don't want to get the hacker combo if it's pants & only suited to the high end Flightpower it say's it's for.


Scorpion 4020-1100 kv, 15tooth Pinion for sport/3D, 16 tooth for ballz out
Kontronik Jive 100+LV for esc, or Scorpion 120 Commander

Those are the rock solids for 6S lipo supply.

[osterizer]

I dont suppose that a Logo 500 witV-Bar head happens to come with the standard flybar head does it? If so, I could understand why the kit cost 70+ dollars more. You would think that withe the many fewer parts the flybarless head comes with, bearings etc that it would at most be the same price.

I don't know about the 500, Jimmy. The 600 does not come with the leftovers from the flybarred head :). It's always been a mystery why the one with fewer bits costs more, but it may be as simple as, well, people want it more.

Good helis, either way- how the heck would someone talk you out of it? :)

[jamesppp]

I don't know about the 500, Jimmy. The 600 does not come with the leftovers from the flybarred head :). It's always been a mystery why the one with fewer bits costs more, but it may be as simple as, well, people want it more.

Good helis, either way- how the heck would someone talk you out of it? :)


Hi buddy, I dont know how someone could but I wish they would. I wanted the 600 but I was thinking that if I get another 550mm heli, I might build that sweet Starwood Scale fuse and drop my Swift in it.

I have always loved building wood kits. I built rubber powered Guillows stuff, free flight, control line stuff from the time I was a little kid. I dreamed of RC stuff but didnt actually get an RC kit, a Gentle Lady, till about 83 or 84.

Anyway sorry to off topic but I guess a Logo is in my future soon. One good thing..once I order my stuff the price will come down for those after me. The Raptor E-620 dropped about 70 dollars from the time I ordered till ther kit came :D

I really do need a winter project ;)

Jimmy

[p4ddy]

So how's the build going?

Oh BTW Thanks OICU812