T-rex 500 owner's thread - Questions - Modifications - Setups - ETC.

[FrankW]

I figured we needed a more official T-rex 500 thread where information could be compiled and stored without being scattered throughout the forum. Please feel free to post your questions, answers, setups, pictures, videos, or whatever else you have that's T-rex 500 related. Most of all have a good time.

-Frank

[FrankW]

I'll start with my current T-rex 500 setup and my proposed changes.

Futaba 9C radio
Stock motor with 13 tooth pinion
Stock ESC with 100% throttle curve
Futaba GY401 gyro w/ S9253 servo
Futaba S9257 cyclic servos
Zippy 6S 3300 Mah battery
Crappy 425mm "Z-weave" carbon blades I got from Hobbycity
No current mechanical upgrades or modifications

Future changes:
Radix Blades
CC PH 80 ESC (on it's way)
Scorpion Motor (haven't quite decided on which, but I'm thinking the 1400 w/18 tooth pinion and gov. set to 2800 rpm)
Align 3K tail blades (on their way)
DS760 gyro and Futaba BLS251 servo

I'm also considering trying a 7s A123 setup.

-Frank

[NAVY_Blade401]

So I am getting ready to up-grade from the Blade 400 to a T-Rex 500. What are the differences between the following options that are beng sold:

1. T-REX 500EP CF Kit Combo

2. T-REX 500EP GF Kit Combo

There are different packages that the sell for both. But what is the difference between CF and GF and which would be the ultimate better package?

[FrankW]

The CF version has carbon frames, tail feathers and servo mount. The GF has them in Glassfiber. The Carbon fiber frames should be stiffer, but may conduct ESD better. Both versions are available with or without blades. The CF version with blades comes with CF blades. The GF version comes with GF blades (flexible). I believe that's the only difference besides canopy color. I got the CF version with blades.

-Frank

[FrankW]

Here's an eLogger graph showing some recorded values during flight #3 with the new Zippy 3300. There's some medium 3D as well as some FFF, upright and inverted hovering in there.

The recorded values are: Headspeed, Pack voltage, pack amps, Battery temp (temp A), Motor Temp (temp B). This was the 2nd flight of the day.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Cool Frank, looks like your throwing it around pretty good. Headspeed is a little less than i expected, but 75ish amps on the stock esc is pretty serious. I have noticed with my 123s at 100% my esc barely gets warm no matter how hard i throw it around (6s at this point) But when i use lipos the motor and the esc get pretty hot. (scorpion 1400)

[FrankW]

Yeah, I'm pushing the stock ESC pretty hard. I'm not sure how hot it gets, but I'm sure it's not happy either. I have a CC PH-80 on the way and will be using a CCBEC. I can't wait to try out the set RPM governor on this bird; I'm using it on my B400 with great success. I'll probebly up the pinion to 15 teeth and set it to 2800 to start.

I'm currently using the brushless motor rpm sensor, but soon I'll get the hall effect sensor and use that instead. I believe the main gear on the T-rex 500 has two little spots molded into it just for that purpose.

I wonder how hot the motor can safely get...

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

I wonder how hot the motor can safely get...

-Frank
I do too. I oil mine every 10 flights or so. But mine does get pretty darn hot.

[FrankW]

I haven't oiled mine at all. :o

[JustinMoore12]

Haha, in my scorpion manual it says to oil the bearings regularly. From what i took from above at this point you are running the stocker? Not sure if it needs it or not, couldnt hurt i guess. Suprised more people havent taken to this thread

[FrankW]

Yeah, currently running the stocker. When I move up to the Scorpion I'll oil them regularly. I may change out the bearings to some nice ceramic units.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Puffed my first loong maxx 3s in mine today. Been a great flying day besides that. My 123 packs are starting to get broken in and accepting a better charge consistently and staying balanced. Finally got the balls to do something other than flips loops and FF. Got about a pack and a half of full inverted hovering and really slow ff as im not very comfortable with inverted forward flight yet. Good day, happy labor day

[FrankW]

That sucks that you puffed a pack. I'm not using my Loong Max packs on my 500 because I don't want to puff them. They already come off toasty.

I do have a pair of Rhyno 2250s that I'm trying out in the 500. Only get 4 minutes, but they seem to be holding up okay. They pop better than the Loong Maxs but they don't have the muscle that the Zippy 3300 does.

-Frank

[Dynarace]

Puffed my first loong maxx 3s in mine today.
That's not good news - I have new LM 3S's in the mail specifically for this bird. Were yours new? Had they been used only in series or did you grab them from your 450? Still trying to find the ideal battery for this bird (but only have a 4s charger right now :( )

[Bunyan]

Justin,

Are you using 6S or 7SA123's? I'm currently using 6SA123 with a modified HOSS X5R belt conversion on my T-500 with a Strecker 1200 K/V motor (also flybarless/v-bar). I'm getting good performace but am getting a bit of bogging on tic tocs. I think I might have to try a 7SA123 or just swap to 6S lipos.

[tIANcI]

Hey guys ... I just got my 1st heli after many years of flying planes. I got the 500 all fixed up by my pal as I am not that keen to fix my own flying razor blade, I am just phobic about it. I just had a few flights and I find it fun learning heli, totally different from planes.

I got the Align DS520 servos, Futaba 401 and 9257 servo. I find that the heli wants to twitch its tail when I hover her. Anyone knows why? Some tell me its the gyro gain and some say its the high head speed that can be sorted out with a 611 gryo. Some of my pals who are really good 3D pilots said the twitching was a lot less with the 611.

Anyone knows what is causing this twitch?

[FrankW]

What radio are you using? It is a twitch or a wag?

It might be Electro-Static Discharge (ESD). Basically, the belt rubs on the boom, building static electricity (like a Van Der Graff generator). Once the buildup is high enough the static electicity arcs to the frame and messes with the electronics. Some people have some interesting ways of dealing with it: discharge wicks, boom grounding, voodoo, etc. The best way I've found of handling the problem is to keep the belt relatively taught and to lube it with silicon shock oil (I use associated 40 Wt.). You can find the shock oil in the R/C car section of your local hobby shop.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Justin,

Are you using 6S or 7SA123's? I'm currently using 6SA123 with a modified HOSS X5R belt conversion on my T-500 with a Strecker 1200 K/V motor (also flybarless/v-bar). I'm getting good performace but am getting a bit of bogging on tic tocs. I think I might have to try a 7SA123 or just swap to 6S lipos.

I have two 6s packs and one 7s. What motor are you using? If i dont slam the collective i can do 8 or 9 tics without grinding the headspeed off too much. I run a 3026-1400 with a 14t though.

[Bunyan]

Hey Justin,

I was able to do that as well with the stock setup and 6SA123s.
I now have this (http://www.acceleratedrc.com/Hoss-X5.htm) frame with this (http://www.rs-e-motoren.de/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=28) motor (see post #129 for pics on (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=855121&page=9])this thread)
It has 1200 K/V, 800 Watts and weighs 160g.
I'm using a Jazz ESC (which you almost have to use if going A123) and am running it at 60% to "lower" my headspeed to 2800rpms. If I use 80% GOV mode I get over 3K on the head. I'm waiting on a smaller Pinion. Currently using a 18T.

[JustinMoore12]

Sounds like a smaller pinion is definatly the way to go if your running at 60. I use the stock esc, the lvc cuts in every once in a while but it seems to work. Im still doing the initial cycling of the packs to get them to take a full charge as well.

[Bunyan]

Yeah, I'm thinking 16T pinion should bring me back to 80% on the ESC.

I love my 6SA123 packs. I don't even balance them. I made a home made solderless pack and pull them appart every 50 or so cycles and charge them individually. So far they haven't drifted much at all.

[JustinMoore12]

I got two 10s 36v packs that had been tested in the factory and over discharged. My packs are just starting to take a good charge. Got two for 90 bucks. Thats about 30 bucks a pack :)
Well worth the headache imo

[FrankW]

I've been wanting to try 7S A123, but to get the power to weight ratio I ultimately want, my flight would only be 3 minutes.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

The weight is a big limiting factor for me. I havent weighed my packs but i know they are really heavy.

[FrankW]

The cells are 70g a piece. A 7S pack would weigh almost as my Zippy 3300, with only around 2/3 the capacity and cost more, if not at least the same. The only advantage for me is that the A123s can be charged in 15 - 20 minutes. But I don't recharge at the field anyways.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Like i said all three of my packs cost me about 30 bucks a piece plus wire and balance taps. New ebay 36v packs is not the way to go IMO.

[FrankW]

I was mostly looking at individual cells. I don't think I'd trust used packs.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

I've been wanting to try 7S A123, but to get the power to weight ratio I ultimately want, my flight would only be 3 minutes.

-Frank

I just timed two flights on 6s 123 a few minutes ago and that is all i get, give or take 30 seconds.

[FrankW]

I much prefer the 6 minutes of the 3300s.

On another note: Here's an FDR graph of what the T-rex looks like when hovering. It's inverted hovering, but it should be a good representation of upright hovering too. There's a few seconds of 3D at the end too.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

That is with the zippys? Looks like they dont have too much of a drop off at the end of your flight. Doesnt look like it liked the 3d at the end very much though. You have a link for the batterys?

[FrankW]

Yeah, with the Zippys. I only pulled 2300 Mah out of them, so they had a lot of time left. They didn't drop much in voltage during the 3D at spikes of over 50 amps, not too bad in my book.

The batts are here: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6419

They're out of stock right now.

-Frank

[tIANcI]

Frank ... I am using the 9X and its a twitch, not wag. Not sure its really static as its pretty humid here. Also, 2,600 mAh packs are ok for a 5 min hover but I think I wanna get some 3,300 mAh packs so I can increase me flight times.

[FrankW]

Are you using the governor function on the ESC?

So far I think 3300s are the way to go in 6s.

-Frank

[blade strike]

Are you using the governor function on the ESC?

So far I think 3300s are the way to go in 6s.

-Frank


frank is right, if the align gov is on.. it will race with the gyro! If so just a nice flat curve and it willl be fine :cool:

[FrankW]

Just got a TT tail NIB off ebay for $69 shipped. I can't wait to try it out.

-Frank

[tIANcI]

Okay guys ... will look into the governer mode thingy. I need to learn about helis properly ... but I have to say I am having fun. Playing on the sim really helps with the orientation and all. Its been a week now and I can hover and move around a bit, not much but just a bit. Now to learn to hover on a spot.

[CR5]

tIANcI,
Try increasing the delay pot on the 401. I'm running a 401 with 9257 servo and had the same twitch till I turned up the delay. Just turn it up a little at a time till the tail settles down. Mine is rock solid now.
Good luck

[FrankW]

You shouldn't need to increase the delay pot on the 401 at all with the 9257. The delay is there to prevent tail wag after abrupt release of yaw input. You'll lose tail performance by increasing the delay and using the delay will just mask the problem, not solve it.

I really think it's either a governor or an ESD problem.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Had a couple good flights today. Almost ended poorly though, The vertical stabilizer had a bolt come off and the other had gotten loose appearantly and spun around and got into the tail rotor. Had just came out of a flip and heard this loud random CLICK CLICK. I thought it was all over, immidiately brought it down.

[FrankW]

Good to hear you were able to get her down safely. Any damage to the tail system?

[JustinMoore12]

Kbdd blades might be a little scuffed and the carbon fin has a small fracture. Im not worried about it, crashing would have set me back quite a bit.

On another note i got 6 minutes out of my 123 6s packs doing mostly inv hovering flips and FFF. I think they are starting to take a better charge and balance better. Pretty happy with them at the moment. Its a pain for me to charge the 7s packs because i have the TP 610c which only goes up to 6s, then i have to charge the extra cell seperatly.

[FrankW]

What's your headspeed with the 6s pack?

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Err.. your getting into specifics and i dont have any way of acuratly measuring the headspeed. I would imagine at 100% it would be somewhere around 2500 maybe a bit more. Its plenty for what i can do right now. I dont have any bogging on pumps or punch outs.

[JustinMoore12]

Im thinking my Lvc is cutting in prematurely as well. Ill buy a new esc when i get the $$ together

[FrankW]

I set my LVC to the "low" setting, but if you're flying 6S A123 the stock esc might not know where to cut.

On another note: My wife finally got some good pictures of my 500.

[JustinMoore12]

Sweet shots Frank. I didnt know the LVC was adjustable on the 60g stocker. Any ideas on how to do it? I have read with 7s its not a problem.

[FrankW]

I guess I was wrong, I have mine set on "middle" (3v/cell). There is no "low". The procedure for adjusting your ESC starts on page 25 of the manual. The default setting is "high" at 3.2v/cell.

I think if you're going to continue with 6S A123 you'd do better with a different ESC. The max voltage of the 6S A123 is 21.6, which is just slightly above that of 5S lipoly (21.0). So the ESC will recognise the 6S A123 as 6S lipoly and cut off at 18 volts, which is too high. 6S A123 would be safe to take down to 12 volts. I doubt your heli could fly on that though.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Ill set the ESC for middle i guess. At the moment I can definatly not afford another esc. I would be looking at a CC which is way out of my pricerange for this thing, about half of what i have in it to begin with. Do you have a link to the manual? I think max charge for the 6s pack is around 22 or a little less (around 3.65 per cell is where the 610c is programmed to stop.) And the Lvc kicks in at 18 for a 6s, no wonder why my flight times are poor. I am putting in about 1800 Mah back into the 2300 M1 cells though. I think im getting 4-5 minutes depending on how i fly.

[FrankW]

http://www.trextuning.com/t500-manual.pdf

Which CC are you looking at? I plan on using the Pheonix-80 can handle 6s and continuous 80 amps. They're only $136 at Tower, I'm sure they're cheaper elsewhere. I have read reports of the HV series catching on fire.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

I was looking at the pheonix 80 myself. Maybe ill keep an eye on the discount codes in hot online deals for a good code that would bring the price down a bit. Thanks for the link.

[Dynarace]

OK guys, how serious is this ESD thing?

I have the CF version and so far haven't identified anything in flight as an issue, but am I living on borrowed time not doing any of the grounding mods? Is this risk that much higher than on my B400 - which I don't even lube the belt on and haven't had an issue with (yet)? Is living in a relatively humid area protecting me (feel free to chime in, Justin), or do I really need to get serious with wires/plates or TT?

[JustinMoore12]

There is alot of talk about ESD, but I just like you have not seen an issue yet that i feel needs attention. I have never lubed any of my belts on any of my helis and my tails have always held fine. If i were getting weird lockouts or irratic tail movements that would be my first thing to check. Humid? Naaah its not humid/moist in Maine :)
It might be temperature related as well, i dont really know.

[FrankW]

It really depends on the tension of your tail belt (something you should always check before each flying session). If your belt gets loose it'll rub agienst the boom which will generate a lot of static electricity. The problem is that the T-rex 500s boom is a relatively small diameter. The cure is to make sure that your belt is fairly taut and it's a good idea to lube it before each flying session (only takes a minute). Nothing else is really nessesary, but some have invented ways to combat the situation and still use a loose belt (a looser belt is a little more efficient).

I'm anxiously waiting for my TT as I hear it makes the tail more responsive.

-Frank

[FrankW]

So, I was checking out my T-rex 500 to make sure everything is up to snuff and I was checking if the dampners were worn by seeing if the feathering shaft rocked by applying light pressure to the blade grips. I noticed that my feathering shaft didn't rock at all, but my whole headblock rocked a little on the main shaft, enough so that the blade tips would move about half an inch up and down. Anyone have this issue on their 500?

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

I did, a similar problem that alot of the protos guys are having. I stuck Jb weld up in the headblock with the F shaft and cage out and used a spirit level to level the block. I think it fixed some of my tracking issues at higher Hs's

[FrankW]

I have no tracking issues.

How do you get the mainshaft out with it JB welded in there? Or maybe I'm understanding it wrong.

[JustinMoore12]

Nope you got it. JB weld doesnt bond very well to smooth surfaces, after it dried i pulled it out just to make sure i didnt f myself and with very little force it popped and slid right out.

[FrankW]

Hmmm... I'll give that mod some thought. Thanks.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

No big deal if you arent having any vibe or tracking issues i guess.
Many my 500 sure would be happy with that gy611 from crackroll.
Might be a bit overkill, but hey at least it would let me put the 9650 and 401 back on the Hoss :)

[FrankW]

Yeah, I'd love that 611 too... but I'm planning on going V-bar with my 500 in the near future. However, I could always use it as an excuse to buy a 700. "But honey, I need a new heli for this gyro I won."

-Frank

[FrankW]

Woo hoo. I just got my TT tail in the mail today. I'm going to install it tonight and see how it performs tomorrow!

-Frank

[FrankW]

Well, it looks like I won't be trying out the TT tail tomorrow. At the end of flight number 4 (session 2) of today I lost all tail control while inverted and about 10 feet up and she started spinning wildly. Luckily I cut the throttle, and she went in with minimal damage. Looks like the parts damaged are:

Slightly bent mainshaft
One link from servo to swashplate bent and ball link broken
A few teeth damaged on main gear.
Slight bent tail boom
Broken tail pushrod
Broken landing gear strut
Broken landing gear skid
Broken bottom plate where the landing struts attach
Broken main blades (only ones broken, but it's a matched pair)
Broken Microheli canopy mount

The feathering shaft might still be strait, I'll remove it and check it out.

Time to put in an order with either HD or RH.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Ouch man. Murphys law, you get tail upgrade parts and dont install them right off the bat and immidiatly you have a failure. Sorry to hear about that. Im still dreading the day i crash my 500 for the first time.

[FrankW]

I'm just surprised that both of my 500 crashes were a mechanical failure of some sort rather than me dumb-thumbing it in. My B400 is dumbthumbed in all them time. I have gotten close to stuffing it in myself a few times though.

I'm just happy I didn't damage my new TT kit.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Haha, i got my 450 back together today with a bunch of new gear and took it out and flew it briefly. Its been a few weeks since i have flown a 450 size and man my 500 has spoiled me. I run a JGF 500 with the hossx4 frame and all metal parts on 4s, its fun but alot harder to see. I have found myself being a little more daring with it though.

[FrankW]

I got the TT tail mounted in the heli. All I can say is "smooooooth". Easy swap too. I can't wait to try it out in the air.

-Frank

[hummingbird111]

Frank, how hard is it to swap over from belt to tube, ? I might just have to get me one.:)

[Dynarace]

At the end of flight number 4 (session 2) of today I lost all tail control while inverted and about 10 feet up and she started spinning wildly.
Frank - what do you think happened to cause this? Had you lock-screwed your boom in?

[FrankW]

Frank, how hard is it to swap over from belt to tube, ? I might just have to get me one.:)

Takes only a few minutes. What's nice about the T-rex 500 is that the tail system is modular. Taking off the belt tail requires only a few minutes and ten bolts (including the two that hold the horizontal stab on). Building the TT tail only takes a few minutes as well. You do have to transfer over from the old tail the hub/grips, lever, servo and fin. Installing it is as easy as pulling off the old tail. I'd say it took me 15 minutes total, while watching "Destroyed in Seconds". Converting back (just incase) should be quicker now that I know what I'm doing.

BTW: Lots of people are using the 14 tooth pinion on the stock motor on 6s and like it. The only reason I haven't done it is because I'm too lazy and want to wait until my PH-80 arrives so I can put on my 15 tooth pinion.

-Frank

[FrankW]

Frank - what do you think happened to cause this? Had you lock-screwed your boom in?

To shorten the tail control rod I had contructed a new one with a steel 2-56 pushrod and a solder-on brass threaded coupler. I was hovering inverted with the tail pointed into heavy winds and I'm concluding that the constant tail corrections by the gyro stressed the coupler to the breaking point. Once it broke I lost all tail control.

It doesn't help that I had used this pushrod since day one and it's seen hundreds of piros, backwards flight, piroflips, etc. I used a full-sized servo plate that I had on hand which required a shorter pushrod. Yesterday I ordered a T-rex 600 servo mount and that should allow me to use the stock pushrod.

I had been using these couplers before on airplanes and helicopters (to make carbon fiber tube pushrods) and figured they were safe. I don't think I'll be using them again.

-Frank

[Technex]

Sorry to hear about the crash Frank.

Although a smaller heli on my Dragonus 450 when I shortened the tail pushrod I cut little slots in it all along the doubled up section on both sides and sanded a little so it's a flat bond between them. I then filled it with 30min z-poxy and left in a vice overnight. Following day I put heatshrink over the the join and tightened it up using a soldering iron.

[FrankW]

Although a smaller heli on my Dragonus 450 when I shortened the tail pushrod I cut little slots in it all along the doubled up section on both sides and sanded a little so it's a flat bond between them. I then filled it with 30min z-pox and left in a vice overnight. Following day I put heatshrink over the the join and tightened it up using a soldering iron.

Huh? Picture?

[Technex]

Huh? Picture?

Here's one I found
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=2009770 (sorry for poor quality pic)

Sorry that was meant to read z-poxy.

[FrankW]

I see. With the new servo mount I shouldn't need to shorten my rod.

-Frank

[Roto Rob]

Still trying to get some time to finish my 500. Torque tube, Kasama thrust bearing blocks for main shaft, and new hitec digital servo's await.
I have not decided on if I will go to an external BEC. A hobby shop owner tells me the factory ESC's BEC have been working good.

[JustinMoore12]

Mine works fine with a scorpion 1400 which im sure is pulling near 60 on 6s.


Well no super nice gyro for my 500. Back to RCG until the next prize winner is announced. At least i dont have to look at half naked morbidly obese wemen.

[FrankW]

At least i dont have to look at half naked morbidly obese wemen.

Yeah... I was getting kinda sick of that too.

-Frank

[hummingbird111]

sorry to hear bout your crash .:o

[hummingbird111]

Takes only a few minutes. What's nice about the T-rex 500 is that the tail system is modular. Taking off the belt tail requires only a few minutes and ten bolts (including the two that hold the horizontal stab on). Building the TT tail only takes a few minutes as well. You do have to transfer over from the old tail the hub/grips, lever, servo and fin. Installing it is as easy as pulling off the old tail. I'd say it took me 15 minutes total, while watching "Destroyed in Seconds". Converting back (just incase) should be quicker now that I know what I'm doing.

BTW: Lots of people are using the 14 tooth pinion on the stock motor on 6s and like it. The only reason I haven't done it is because I'm too lazy and want to wait until my PH-80 arrives so I can put on my 15 tooth pinion.

-Frank
THanks Frank., I wasn't too sure if i would be pulling too many amps with the 14 tooth,

[FrankW]

According to my eLogger, with the 13 tooth pinion I'm pulling about 22 amps in hover and an average of 28 amps during 3D. There is plenty of cushion with the stock 60 amp ESC, 14 teeth seems very viable. I think the question is, will your batteries handle the draw?

-Frank

[tornet]

Nice to see a TREX500 thead here :).

I noticed that you are using same 3300 zppy as me. There are quite heavy, tried to fly with light 3s 2200 lipos and the difference was really noticable.
I maybe can get used to the heavy feeling.

I have tried also 15T with 5s 30C 3200 polyquest and 5s 3700 Hyperion/FP and quite ok but not same brutal force. 7 minute flight possible on 3700 which is quite nice of course.

[FrankW]

The flight time of the Zippys are nice, but you're right, they are heavy. My biggest issue is that they throw the CG off, making the heli nose heavy. I'm looking at lowering the tray to will allow me to move the battery further rearward while staying under the canopy. This will allow me to get the CG back to normal.

My PH-80 came in today. :-D

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Yeah the larger Mah 6s is definatly a weight trade off. Flight times are nice but i love the pop with my 3s setup
Here is a data graph of the previous owner on 6s with the scorpion motor.

[FrankW]

The Zippy 3300s may not have as much pop, but they do have more muscle to power through maneuvers.

-Frank

[FrankW]

Anybody try these out yet?

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_295_297&products_id=6594

[tIANcI]

I have been really ejonying my Trex500 over the last 2 weeks ... today I finally learnt to manage the throttle a little. Been hovering without touching the throttle much and now I can move her higher and lower.

I am testing out the Desire Power packs. Am using the 25C and 30C packs, I got the 25C 3S 2200, 30C 3S 2200, 25C 3S 2600 and 30C 3S 2500. I have to say that the packs are pretty good. The discharge well and when I charge them up the packs are pretty 'balanced'.

The 2200 packs give me a nice 5-6 mins hovering with a temp of about 50*C - 55*C. I get about 7 mins hovering time on the 2,500/2,600 packs.My ESC is set for high cut.

I love my Trex500 and its made it really easy for me the learn how to fly a heli.

[Roto Rob]

Anybody try these out yet?

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_295_297&products_id=6594
These are the ones I got. http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/131029
There sale is over, I got them cheaper last month.
I was happy with thrust bearings on my 450, so thought these could only be better. I plan to get the 500 together this week.

[NAVY_Blade401]

Hey guys. What do you think about this combo package for the T-Rex 500?

It includes the following:

- KX017001A T-REX 500 CF Kit Combo (with 425mm Carbon Fiber Blades)
- FUTM0807 Futaba GY401 Gyro Standalone unit (No Servo)
- LP-B0108 Lightning Power 6S1p 22.2v 2200mAh 25C Li-po
- FUTM0260 S9650 Mini Digital Servo (Designed for quick 3D tail control)
- FUTM0260 S9650 Mini Digital Servo (Designed for quick 3D tail control)
- FUTM0260 S9650 Mini Digital Servo (Designed for quick 3D tail control)
- FUTM0667 S9257 Servo EP Heli Digital Rudder
- K10333A 5.1V Step-Down Voltage Regulator

Here is the website:

http://www.helihobby.com/html/t_rex_500.html

[FrankW]

Hey guys. What do you think about this combo package for the T-Rex 500?

It includes the following:

- KX017001A T-REX 500 CF Kit Combo (with 425mm Carbon Fiber Blades)
- FUTM0807 Futaba GY401 Gyro Standalone unit (No Servo)
- LP-B0108 Lightning Power 6S1p 22.2v 2200mAh 25C Li-po
- FUTM0260 S9650 Mini Digital Servo (Designed for quick 3D tail control)
- FUTM0260 S9650 Mini Digital Servo (Designed for quick 3D tail control)
- FUTM0260 S9650 Mini Digital Servo (Designed for quick 3D tail control)
- FUTM0667 S9257 Servo EP Heli Digital Rudder
- K10333A 5.1V Step-Down Voltage Regulator

Here is the website:

http://www.helihobby.com/html/t_rex_500.html

Looks good, but get the 401 combo with the S9254 and get a 600 tail servo mount. You'll be much happier with a full sized tail servo. However, if you can afford it and find one, get the DS760 gyro. I hear they're awesome.

I really prefer S9257 on the cyclic though. I'm curretly running them on 5.5 volts without issue. The heli feels very responsive and connected to my inputs.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

Well a crow figured out the hard way tonight that 425mm pieces of fiberglass spinning at 3000rpm>crow...
What a mess..

[FrankW]

LMAO. Pictures?

I'm almost back in the air, just waiting on blades. I've made a few changes:

TT tail (smooooooooooth)
15 tooth pinion
CC PH80 ESC w/CCBEC
Lowered battery tray so I can move the 3300 further back to get proper CG
K&B orange dampners (these things are stiff!)

I'll be setting up the Governor in the ph80 to 2600, 2700 and 2800 rpms.

I hope my blades arrive soon.

-Frank

[JustinMoore12]

I really wish i had a camera i could make into a hat cam. I didnt even bother to inspect the 'body' cleaned quite a bit of feathers and some blood off the 500 though.
Interesting to say the least.
Im sure you will, but let me know how you like the pheonix 80. Probably my next upgrade.

[tIANcI]

I am still getting the 'shakes' on my tail with the 401, I increased the gain to 93% on my 9X but it still shakes a bit. I thought it should be almost rock solid right?

[JustinMoore12]

What tail servo are you using? 93% is pretty high from my experience. Have you set it up in rate mode before using HH?

[FrankW]

I am still getting the 'shakes' on my tail with the 401, I increased the gain to 93% on my 9X but it still shakes a bit. I thought it should be almost rock solid right?

Your gain is too high, lower it until it doesn't wag any more. Too high of gain will cause tail wag.

-Frank

[tornet]

Are you using 15T with 6s ??


LMAO. Pictures?

I'm almost back in the air, just waiting on blades. I've made a few changes:

TT tail (smooooooooooth)
15 tooth pinion
CC PH80 ESC w/CCBEC
Lowered battery tray so I can move the 3300 further back to get proper CG
K&B orange dampners (these things are stiff!)

I'll be setting up the Governor in the ph80 to 2600, 2700 and 2800 rpms.

I hope my blades arrive soon.

-Frank

[tIANcI]

Frank thanks a lot ... dropped the gain to 70%-75% and now its much better ... appreciate it! So much to learn ...

The Trex500 is really stable, I let a few of my pals at the field try it. They fly the MT and they all say the Trex500 is amazing. I did pass the 500 to a pal who has never flown a heli other than on the sim. He can fly plane decently. Know what? The guy hovered the heli on his first try!!! Talk about stable ...

[cudaboy_71]

i just got two of the new airthunder 3200mah 6s packs.

great packs, btw. a little heavy, but the added flight time along with the power of the scorpion 1400 i don't mind at all.

but, the packs do not fit under the canopy at all. not even close. i tried boiling the canopy to see if i can distort it a little to accommodate, but no dice. the pack is right at 1" longer than the protek 4000mah 5s pack, which is already a tight fit.

so, does anyone have any experience with fitting another canopy? the Gaui 500, protos, lepton, logo 500 maybe on the trex for some more room??? other suggestions welcome. right now i'm flying 'hatless'.

[FrankW]

Are you using 15T with 6s ??

Yes. It'll give my ESC's governor some headroom during high collective and cyclic maneuvers. Haven't been able to fly it yet with this configuration (still waiting on blades) but the numbers look promising.

-Frank

[FrankW]

i just got two of the new airthunder 3200mah 6s packs.

great packs, btw. a little heavy, but the added flight time along with the power of the scorpion 1400 i don't mind at all.

but, the packs do not fit under the canopy at all. not even close. i tried boiling the canopy to see if i can distort it a little to accommodate, but no dice. the pack is right at 1" longer than the protek 4000mah 5s pack, which is already a tight fit.

so, does anyone have any experience with fitting another canopy? the Gaui 500, protos, lepton, logo 500 maybe on the trex for some more room??? other suggestions welcome. right now i'm flying 'hatless'.

Do you think your packs would fit in between the side-frames? If so, you might consider lowering the battery tray. A lot of people have been doing this to get their batteries to fit properly under the canopy. I just did mine so I could move my Zippy 3300s further rearward to get the CG back to where it needs to be. It's an easy mod that only takes a few minutes.

-Frank