Swift solid main shaft

[oldeflyer]

Anybody else having problems with their solid main shafts?

My almost new one-way started making noise. I got a new one and when I took the shaft out there were dents and raised areas where the one-way was. Now I know why the one-way died! The poor needle bearings were being pressed into the shaft!
The places where the set screws were tightened against also were deformed. It took almost a half hour with a file to get the collar, bearing and upper head stuff off.
Anybody know where you can get a case hardened shaft for these things? There was a post I found searching this, in a closed thread, that mentioned this issue. Has Century fixed this?

[Fred Bronk]

The solid shaft was a fix for the rarely bend hollow shaft, but they never hardened it.

Some use the logo 10 hollow shaft, which is hardened.

FB

[oldeflyer]

Thanks Fred!
Is the Logo 10 shaft a drop-in replacement?

[gilles]

Hello oldeflyer.

I've just met the same problem.
On one of my 2 Swift, I have had problem of radio interferences.
So I was searching metal-metal random contacts (creating RF noise) including dry or used ball bearings.

And I have met the same problem you described :
The "solid" main shaft was "machined" by the one-way needles, so the one-way bearing was very noisy.

If we don't quickly find a solution (Logo shaft, Century upgrade), I think I will come back to the original configuration (including plastic head !!!)


Best regards,
Gilles

[oldeflyer]

Gilles,
Sorry to hear you are having this problem too. :( But I'm happy to have the company. :) Maybe a solution will present itself to one of us.
That's why I like this forum. It lets people offer solutions and/or commiseration.

[gilles]

Sorry to share the same problem !

I am currently checking with friends who have mikado logo 10 & 14...

I will inform you,
Gilles

[Fred Bronk]

No, it is not a drop in as the Logo shaft is a little longer than the stock. But not as long as the 3 bearing Swift shaft.

FB

[oldeflyer]

Jeez-Louise, I just noticed that my first post didn't say anything about the model. I am running this shaft in the Swift 620se. The solid shaft issue should be the same, yes?
I got pounded into the hay field by the wind yesterday and just happen to have a slightly bent 16 shaft to compare with the 620. The 620 shaft is 5/8" longer, whatever that is in mm. Wonder about the upper and lower hole spacing too, for the Logo shaft. Don't really want to drill the hardened Logo one.

[gilles]

May be I am less lucky: my 2 Swift are classic Swift 16.

Just waiting for my friends information...

Gilles

[gilles]

Yes , I have found my solution, after having weighted the 2 axis :
Weight difference = 80 gr !!!

So, I come back to the short axis original configuration:
- its metal is hardened,
- it is lighter (80gr),
- it is stronger (tube is better when hollowed than full)

I will leave in place the plastic plate, to stiffen the main frame, but I will take out the third ball bearing !

So, that's my solution to this problem : coming back to the original configuration. :mad:

For the 2nd time, I realize that Quality of CENTURY optional parts is not a good example...

(1st bad experience was the metal grips...)

Best regards, and good luck for the 620,
Gilles

[oldeflyer]

I'm glad you have found a solution that works for you.
Talked to the Heli-world tech people today. The soft solid mains appear to be a hit or miss problem. He said there probably would be no short term solution. And he said something about the hollow shafts being phased out in favor of the solid ones. Not sure if that is a good idea??!!

[Fred Bronk]

I like the hollow shafts, lighter and stronger when made right. But a little more $ to produce.

FB

[oldeflyer]

It appears that you can not get the hollow shafts anymore. Most places are out of stock and the solid ones are too soft to keep a one-way bearing in. I just ordered new 16 and 620 shafts and they are both soft. I tried to tighten the set screw on the collar down on them both, as a test, before I wasted a bearing and they both dug into the shaft. The collar required much effort to remove and left big gouges.
Any one know if any of the other Century shafts will work in these machines? Both my 16 and 620 are down until I find a shaft that won't eat the one-ways. Help!!

[borneobear]

Here's the logo hollow shaft. Never liked the Century solid shaft - heavy and totally unnecessary.
The Mikado shaft is more expensive, but I never got a bent one from them. :)

https://www.fxaeromodels.com//product_info.php?products_id=395

[rotoraddict]

There are a number of Swiftees in our club & we all use the solid shafts. Between all of us, there must be over 1000 flights logged with no problems.

[Gadget01]

I've been using the solid shaft since installing the 3rd bearing. No problems.

[oldeflyer]

It seems that the solid shaft metal batch might be an issue. My 620 shaft ws never even stressed while I was setting the model up and tuning the ESC. When I finally started flying it, it was making noise.
I have put the solid shaft in the 16, since I NEEDED SOMETHING to fly :rolleyes: in the wind. :D I've got about 2 hours on it now. I will be tearing it down if I hear any noise.
If I don't get any noise out of it soon, I may put the new shaft in the 620 and give it another go.

[swatson144]

I've been using the solid shaft since installing the 3rd bearing. No problems.

Same here I have about 10hrs on mine since the upgrade.

Steve

[Cyclick]

I have it in two, one with almost 200 flights and one with almost 100 flights - never been a problem.

[oldeflyer]

It seems as if Gilles and I got some lemon parts? Or maybe some one-way brgs that were too hard? Who knows? I am assuming that those who say they have had no problems have looked at their shafts since putting them in and flying? Not just no noise? And that the top collar set screws don't dig into the shaft metal, making the collar very hard to remove?
I put the 620 back together and will give my new solid shaft a try.

[swatson144]

I have had the collar off a few times (setting main shaft thrust) and it didn't seem to be a problem to move it.

Strangely enough I was getting noise after a new short main shaft so I decided to change all the bearings and install the 3rd bearing at the same time. It's easy for me to forget that there is a journal bearing in the one way. Have you inspected that? Seems if it was in not so perfect condition it'd have a really bad effect on the shaft and one way. It is pre-installed in the one way so if they boned it on installation...

Steve

[oldeflyer]

Steve,
On this particular Swift I have replaced the one-way bearing with the bearing set that includes the bearing that goes in the motor mount block. The other two bearings felt fine. I loosen the top bearing block when I install the shaft to help relieve any misalignment (as much as possible).
I am putting it back into service today and hope it will last.

[oldeflyer]

Well, just took my 620 shaft apart and have the same problem as the original. This makes two 16 shafts and two 620 shafts. I can't believe I got all lemons!!??
The pic doesn't do it justice, but I can not get the bearing off without filing down the metal that has been deformed out of the roller bearing 'holes'. This was after approx 10 hours, by the battery log. 600mm wood mains and H/S of only 1600-1700.

I finnally got some of the 'old' style, hollow 16 shafts. Ran one of them for a couple of weeks, (I fly every day after work in the summer). Took the shaft out and it was like new.

These solid shafts are not very well made. I don't believe it is the bearings being too hard either as I changed the bearings on both models after the first solid shaft dents caused noise.

[Cyclick]

So what are the symptoms? Does your auto bearing hang-up or something like the ones on my Rappy 50 used to dom without even marking the shafts.

[Gadget01]

After my last little ground-impact incident with mine, the main shaft was scarred the same way as in your pics, Oldeflyer. The symptom was a clicking noise whenever the shaft rotated freely but not under power, almost like if you were rotating a socket on a ratchet handle. I don't think it would ever slip under power, especially with grooves like that for the sprague clutch to dig into. Regardless, I didn't like it and I replaced the main shaft with another solid, the motor mount hub bearing, and the auto hub. Kind of a shotgun approach, but the clicking is gone.

[oldeflyer]

So what are the symptoms? Does your auto bearing hang-up or something like the ones on my Rappy 50 used to dom without even marking the shafts.
Mostly it whines, very high pitch. The really frustrating thing is that with the bearing rollers moving out like that, they wreck the one-way. I have had to replace two of them for this problem. If you don't get them changed out before they 'really' dig in, you can feel the one-way bearing grinding during change out, rotating a good shaft in the bearing by hand.
The other problem is you can't get the upper bearing off with out filing the deformed metal away. In an earlier post I mentioned that the top collar was tough to remove because the set screws dug in and deformed those spots too.