Tales of Everyone's Swift(s) Part Two

[JustPlaneChris]

Welcome all Swift owners (and wannabe Swift owners)! This is a continuation of the original Tales of Everyone's Swift thread (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=689495), which got really large and hard to navigate. Be sure to check it out, there's a ton of great info (and fun stories) there.

The purpose of this thread is to chat about the Swift (all versions) and share stories, setup tips, and just generally BS about it. Pull up a chair and have fun! :)

-Chris

[helitaiwan963]

sweet! I have made it over and this is gonna be great:D I really hope weather is nice this weekend so I can fly the swift this weekend...ever since I figured out that wobble, have not flown it yet. should be fun:D

[Gadget01]

not a bad view eh?

[nieves50]

Nice to see the Swift thread still thriving! I'm still on the road (at Missoula, MT) will drive to Spokane today. Man, I'm so tired of driving! Still have another week on the ferry starting this Friday.......

Take care guys...

[JustPlaneChris]

not a bad view eh?Beautiful photo, Gadget! :cool:

-Chris

[Eeeeky16]

Sweeeeet!

[LockMD]

Turns out they are a 15min drive from my work. PROUD OWNDER of a new 16 :D

I'm still a newbie (this will be my 2nd build (first ES600)) so have paitience with me, I'll watch finless' build vids but I may have questions galore ;)

[Cloud Cruiser]

not a bad view eh?


Awesome view Gadget, very cool!


Robert

[gilles]

Hello everybody,
happy to meet you on this new thread.

Just few pictures of my 2 Swift.
- one is light (4S, no option, ZPower Z20) = 2.2 Kg / 1750 rpm,
- the other one stronger (6S, CNC options, ZPower Z30) = 2.9 Kg / 2100 rpm.

Best regards,
Gilles

[Gadget01]

For you wanna-be Swift flyers... here's one for you: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=880818

[JustPlaneChris]

Hello everybody,
happy to meet you on this new thread.Welcome, Gilles! Which of your Swifts do you think is more fun? The light one, or the powerful one? Just curious, as I've been tempted to build a 2nd Swift and try to make it as light as possible.

-Chris

[jamesppp]

With the lower kit pricing and the parts cost, the Swift has to be one of the best bargains in RC helis.

I have quite a bit more money is this little Beam I just built. Its about ready to go. The kit is very nice, builds smoothly, and parts are pretty cheap, but for value per dollar, the Swift wins hands down.

Im sure glad you are keeping this thread going. I feel like I learned to fly helis on this thread. Lots of good advice and good people giving it.
Thanks,

Jimmy

[RcSuperSales-Net]

Well I have decided to take the Logictech 2100t off of the King 2 and use it for the Swift 550 I have had in the box since September of last year :eek:. I have everything for it now. I am just contemplating on which Li-PO to go with. I will be choosing either an Outrage Li-PO or the Hyperion Li-PO. Contemplating on going 5s or 6s and either 3700mAH or 5000mAH. So I just need to get that figured out and go from there. I think I may go with the 3700mAH 6s Outrage, or 4250mAH 6s Hyperion. Not sure yet.

Electronics will be as followed:

Logictech 2100t Gyro
Spektrum AR7000
Hyperion 80A ESC
Castle BEC
E-Sky 1200kv (http://store.rcsupersales.net/servlet/.708282ec/-strse-724/E-dsh-Sky-43mm-Diameter-1200Kv/Detail) motor the one that is sold for the E-Smart, basically same as the Century 600, it is just slightly bigger.
I have the Spektrum DS821s for cyclic but I may go with the Hyperion Tail Rudder Servos the DS20-GMD. (http://store.rcsupersales.net/servlet/.708282ec/-strse-2007/HYPERION-ATLAS-DS20-dsh-GMD-FULLY/Detail) Metal Gears, Digital programmable. Here's some more info about the Hyperion Servos: http://media.hyperion.hk/dn/at-ser/atservo.htm. Bob White did a review on the DS20-GMD for me using it on the Gohbee Phazor 600 and said he loved it. He was thinking about using them for cyclic cause they are only $43.80 & super fast. .07 at 4.8v, a kick ass servo. And then I will definitely be using that for my tail so I may have that servo all the way around for cyclic and rudder. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=71561 Step 20 for the review and then you can watch the flight video.

So what recommendations do you guys have for headspeed. I will msot likely be running the 550 Rotortechs and I want a headspeed that is zippy enough for quick loops, rolls, and basically anything 3D you can throw at it. I know the 1700ish range is good for sport flying so for 3D is it more around 2000-2200. I am no 3D flyer but I want this thing to be able to rip if it can. So I was thinking 2000ish for the headspeed. I forgot to mention more than likely I will be using a 9 tooth as that will give me the 2000 range for headspeed as my Motor is 80% efficient and I just wanted to ask are the 8 tooth pinions crap. I had heard about some people having them break. Otherwise I was thinking about trying an 8 tooth to get a headspeed of around 1700.

I won't be building till after I move to Montana because that will be happening in the next 2 months so I am busy preparing but as soon as I can I want to get this bad girl flying.

Thanks for any input and I will definitely be doing some pics and videos. Take care all! Happy and safe flying.

Kyle

[LockMD]

Turns out they are a 15min drive from my work. PROUD OWNDER of a new 16 :D

I'm still a newbie (this will be my 2nd build (first ES600)) so have paitience with me, I'll watch finless' build vids but I may have questions galore ;)


Change in plans, I bit the bullet and got the Carbon 620SE instead....pick it up tomorrow :)

[JustPlaneChris]

I just wanted to ask are the 8 tooth pinions crap. I had heard about some people having them break. Otherwise I was thinking about trying an 8 tooth to get a headspeed of around 1700.I've seen more than one picture of an 8T pinion with missing teeth. IMO, there just isn't enough material left to make a strong pinion that small.

I run 1900 rpm on my Swift, and believe me.... even at that rpm it's going to make you yell "HOLY :censored:!!!" the first time you punch it, especially compared to your King. :cool:

-Chris

[sting35]

Change in plans, I bit the bullet and got the Carbon 620SE instead....pick it up tomorrow :)

Congrats, Larry.... I hate you.... just kidding! (No, really... I hate you :p ) Be sure to post lots o' pics to make me even more jealous.

Sting

[booger]

Change in plans, I bit the bullet and got the Carbon 620SE instead....pick it up tomorrow :)
that is so not fair.

[gilles]

Hello Chris.

My two Swift have 2 very different behaviours :

- Light configuration (4S, no option, ZPower Z20) = 2.2 Kg / 1750 rpm
With its 515mm Rotortech blades, this Swift is very fun.
I really enjoy the light configuration. 6 minutes of aerobatics flight, very smooth !
I call it "Jazz configuration" !!
It seems you are driving a small car...

- heavy configuration (6S, CNC options, ZPower Z30) = 2.9 Kg / 2100 rpm
This configuration is a monster, especially with a 10 tooth motor gear and the 550 Rotortech blades.
So much power you can turn many very large diameter loopings : one, two, three, four, ....
I call this configuration ""heavy metal" !!
It seems you are driving a Corvette or a truck ...

So, 2 very different behaviours.

But the more I compare them, the more I regret to have bought CNC upgrade parts.

- Plastic parts are reliable and light.

- CNC parts are heavy, not so accuratly made (CNC head, what a nightmare...) and expensive.
And the increased weight involves more power, more batteries, and more $$$...

Best regards,
Gilles

PS : sorry for my answer delay, but I live in France...

[Greybird]

Gilles, What is the empty weight of each Heli? While starting the programming for my Logo, I lost all the programming for my Swift. :censored: I was going to use this alcohol induced blunder as an excuse to add all my aluminum parts. If the parts add a ton of weight, I might re-consider. The stock Swift plastic is actually very tight, and smooth.

[sting35]

And please elaborate on 'what a nightmare'. I was considering the CNC head for my yet-to-arrive Eeeeky-mobile.

[Greybird]

Some of the Swift aluminum heads have issues with notchy bearings, feather shaft too short, etc. Easily fixed though.

[Gadget01]

I had absolutely no issues with the aluminum head you sent, Greybird. It went together just fine. All the ball-raced movement is buttery smooth and flies great.

[booger]

I bought a bunch of aluminum upgrades for my swift and have still yet to crash it. that's the excuse I gave myself of when i would put them on. hasn;t happenned yet so knock on wood. the only thing aluminum on mine is the rotor head and the the other part of the flybar that wasn't metal.

[asw20rr]

Kyle,

I tried a Century 8T pinion and it lasted I think 4 flights before it lost a tooth....

- Doug

[JustPlaneChris]

PS : sorry for my answer delay, but I live in France...
Thank you for the answer, Gilles! No need to apologize for the delay, I realize this is a world-wide addiction and you sleep while I'm awake. :) I really like your description, it helps me with my decision.

@Greybird: He listed the weights in his post at 2.2kg and 2.9kg.

-Chris

[High speed pass]

Finally got a chance to fly my Swift for three flights today. It had been two weeks since I last flew due to bad weather or lack of time. It felt good.

Greg

[Spidious]

Well I am thinking of buying a swift.

Will it work on a 3s battery set up as below. Or do I rally need to go up to a 4s ?
No 3D flying, but will be putting it inside of a body coming winter ?
What size ESC by CC would you all recommend, no over kill needed..

[JustPlaneChris]

It could probably be made to fly, but the current draw on 3S would be VERY high. Everything would run hot, and your batteries would be very unhappy. 3S simply can't provide enough watts to effectively fly a heli the size of the Swift without the amperage getting out of hand. Better plan on at least 4S, with a minimum of a Phoenix 60 (but the 80 would be better).

-Chris

[Gadget01]

The only thing a 3S pack will be good for on a Swift is to power a BEC, which is exactly what I use on mine. With a 96t main gear, a 16t pinion gear would severly bog and draw massive amps. The biggest pinion gear you should consider doing the calcs with is 12t or 13t.

4S is the bare minimum to run a Swift, but you'll need 25C packs because of the high amp load. I've seen video of Adam Turner flying a 4S-powered Swift in a very 3D-ish manner, but I'm sure his flight duration was pitifully short. 5S 3700mah is as small of a pack as I would recommend.

This FlightPower evolite 5S 4270mah pack would work very well:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRVT6&P=SM or something equivalent or bigger in capacity.

Greybird flies his Swift with heavy 4S 10,000mah packs. I run my 6S-powered Swift with a Jazz 55-10-32 esc, which is easily enough because the voltage is higher, thus lowering the amp draw. With 4S, you'll need a high-amp rated esc as Chris suggests.

[RcSuperSales-Net]

I've seen more than one picture of an 8T pinion with missing teeth. IMO, there just isn't enough material left to make a strong pinion that small.

I run 1900 rpm on my Swift, and believe me.... even at that rpm it's going to make you yell "HOLY :censored:!!!" the first time you punch it, especially compared to your King. :cool:

-Chris

Kyle,

I tried a Century 8T pinion and it lasted I think 4 flights before it lost a tooth....

- Doug
Yeah I have seen a few of those pics around, makes me wonder why they even sell it. I would like to avoid in flight failure and a forced autorotation if I can..... hmmm.... decisions decisions. I figure if I go 5s I can run a 9t at around 1700 and bump it up to a 10 or 11 for higher headspeed. I'll prob go between a 4000 & 5000 mah 5s or 6s. So 5s is lighter but lower headspeeds and bigger pinion. 6s put on a 9t and that should be all the headspeed I need. Not sure. Price isn't really an issue as they are not that much difference in price. And I hear ya on the power part, I have my HDX 450SE flying and it is a rocket ship! :eek: The King just doesn't have what I need anymore, though I do enjoy flying it and it is cheap to fix so who knows, dangit!

Well I am thinking of buying a swift.

Will it work on a 3s battery set up as below. Or do I rally need to go up to a 4s ?
No 3D flying, but will be putting it inside of a body coming winter ?
What size ESC by CC would you all recommend, no over kill needed..
Just thought I would give you a tip if you didn't already know but on the dark horse calc you can actually export the settings as a link and then just post the link and we can check out your settings, it is pretty slick, tooke me a while before I noticed that cool feature. :)

Thanks for the input guys! Happy and Safe flying!

Kyle

[Greybird]

I am re-programming my Swift. Yuck....

[Gadget01]

Oh, it's not that difficult- quit ur whining and get it flying!

[Heritic]

.

Just few pictures of my 2 Swift.
- one is light (4S, no option, ZPower Z20) = 2.2 Kg / 1750 rpm,
- the other one stronger (6S, CNC options, ZPower Z30) = 2.9 Kg / 2100 rpm.


What capacity /weight are the cells for the light model.
Heritic
(4s4800/4S3300 550+ 9 pinion 5lb 7oz with 4S4800+ Funkey Sqirrel 4S 33002P 600+ 11 pinion 7lb 4oz)
Heritic

[Prime12]

Meanwhile I have been putting together a HV system for my Swift 16 :)

TrueRC 8S 3200mAh 15C Lipo (And a pending 10S A123 pack :) )
CC HV45
Z30A-800
Electron Switching BEC (Up to 36v input)

Can't wait to fly it. I'm mainly interested in efficiency and longer flight times over raw power.

BTW, is Century 8T pinion that bad? With my setup, I'm going to be needing a 8T to keep my headspeed around 1800 rpm range, but I don't want any possibilities of emergency autos because a tooth broke off the pinion :rolleyes: .



Anyone looking for a 4S-6S setup? My entire setup is going to be on sale soon... (Century 600A+, CC60, and CC 10A BEC).

[jamesppp]

I am re-programming my Swift. Yuck....

MODEL 1 SWIFT

COPY MOD 1 > 2? YES :D

[Greybird]

James, Not that easy. After a few beers, I copied Logo into Swift instead of the other way. Logo was empty. All done now. Including Checking pitch with a gauge, Getting the swash right, subtrim(swift needs very little), checking gyro, tail direction, about an hour and 15 minutes. I have not done this in a while. It will make programming the Logo a breeze.

[Greybird]

Anyone looking for a 4S-6S setup? My entire setup is going to be on sale soon... (Century 600A+, CC60, and CC 10A BEC).[/QUOTE]
Crap. I just bought a CC60 and a ubec yesterday.

[jamesppp]

I have only 3 models set up in my 7C, but 6 memories are in use. As soon as I set up a new model I copy it into the next number. It has come in handy as a reference after changing settings in the primary program when I need to know where I started from and cant remember. Mostly I keep putting my settings back to the original values that you gave me for my Swift. Im still putzing around in normal mode. Ive got to start using Idle Up soon.

[Cloud Cruiser]

My favorite scenario is when you and your buddy goes flying, and you both have identical transmitters, and you accidentally pick his up and switch on your heli and watch it do a weedeater imitation on your person!!!!!! :eek:

Robert

[gilles]

Hello Heritic,

I use 2 types of batteries on my light Swift :

- CENTURY 4s / 4000 mA.h , weight=400 gr
(now replaced by the 3300mA.h : http://www.centuryheli.com/products/productdetail.htm?currentid=441&prtnm=CNE5515)

- HYPERION CX 4s / 4250 mA.h , weigh=381 gr
http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=4929

I also use HYPERION CX 4250 batteries in my "heavy metal" Swift, but in 6s configuration (weight=569 gr).

Best regards,
Gilles

PS : I confirm, 2.2 kg and 2.9 Kg are my Swifts weight fully equipped (with battery, canopy, radio, ...)

[RcSuperSales-Net]

Hello Heritic,

I use 2 types of batteries on my light Swift :

- CENTURY 4s / 4000 mA.h , weight=400 gr
(now replaced by the 3300mA.h : http://www.centuryheli.com/products/productdetail.htm?currentid=441&prtnm=CNE5515)

- HYPERION CX 4s / 4250 mA.h , weigh=381 gr
http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=4929

I also use HYPERION CX 4250 batteries in my "heavy metal" Swift, but in 6s configuration (weight=569 gr).

Best regards,
Gilles

PS : I confirm, 2.2 kg and 2.9 Kg are my Swifts weight fully equipped (with battery, canopy, radio, ...)

How do you like those Hyperion Batteries, those were the ones I was contemplating on getting for mine. Those, the 5350's or the Outrage 5000 6S, just not sure yet what I want to go with. I haven't started stocking the Hyperion batteries yet becasue they are a tad bit more expensive and not many people seem to buy them so I do not want to have $2k in batteries that no one is buying :D. Of course they are very good batteries from what I have heard so maybe I will start carrying a few of the bigger ones. Thanks for your input.

Ok guys I just started a different thread on what people's current Swift setup is. It will only be to post what your setup is and not an actual discussin thread. All discussions I asked be referenced to JPS thread. It would just be cool I think to have something that we can all have a quick reference to see what other folks are running on their Swift Helis.. Chris I will put a link on there referencing to this thread for the Discussion and if you want to put a link up referencing to the Swift Owner Setup Thread that would be cool! Use this thread for all the discussion and the other thread for referencing setups. I thought it would make it easy because people posting their setups in hear will get lost amongst the discussions. What do you think guys? Bad or Good Idea? Here's the thread: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=882052#post9988649.

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net

[syclic]

Chris,

Related to weight and performance.

For the same amount of true (where the battery has been tested to honestly give what the numbers state or the numbers are taken from actual testing) watt potential, used on the same heli, geared to turn the same rotor speeds, on the same blades, then weight can directly be considered as a percent power loading increase or decrease.

For this example, we will use the same heli that weighs in with no battery at 1.8 kg, and we are only going to change the pinions, so that we get the same rotor speeds using the different battery packs.

Pack #1 is a top quality 4S unit of 3700 mah (3.7 amp hours) that can truly deliver 20C of current and 3.65V per cell (14.6V as a pack) through 80% of its run time. It weighs 400 grams (0.4 kg).

Pack #2 is a top quality 6S unit of 3700 mah that also can deliver 20C of current and 3.65V per cell (21.9 V as a pack) and weighs in at 600 grams (0.6kg)

Pack # 1 will have a maximum power delivery capability of 14.6 x 3.7 x 20 = 1080.4 watts (1080/746 = 1.45 hp.) and mounted in the heli will make it weigh 1.8 + 0.4 = 2.2kg. The potential power loading would be 1080/2.2 = 490 watts/kilo

Pack #2 will have a max. power delivery capability of 21.9 x 3.7 x 20 = 1620.6 watts!!! This is a power capability gain of 50%!! This battery will also increase the weight of the same heli to 1.8 + .6 = 2.4kg. This is ONLY an increase in weight of about 10%!! The power loading would now be 1620/2.4 = 675 watts/kg....a big increase by just changing the pinion and battery pack.

Of course I am assuming one has a motor and ESC that can accept both power sources.

So as you can see. The power to weight ratio will increase dramatically. What this will mean in practical terms is that with pack #2, if you want to keep the same flight times, you can increase head speeds, or collective pitch range, or use longer blades or increase cyclic pitch ranges, or any combinations thereof, without bogging the motor. This is because the battery pack will have 50% more power capability to absorb all of these extra demands while having only 10% more weight to carry.

[LockMD]

Congrats, Larry.... I hate you.... just kidding! (No, really... I hate you :p ) Be sure to post lots o' pics to make me even more jealous.

Sting


:p How about a purty picture of the box :D




http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee73/lockmd/Swift620SE.jpg


Now get your butt over here and help me build her.

[booger]

:p How about a purty picture of the box :D




http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee73/lockmd/Swift620SE.jpg


Now get your butt over here and help me build her.
that is just not fair, rubbing it in like that :rolleyes: and not even a whats in the box pic. :D

[gilles]

Hello Kyle,

I really like HYPERION batteries for 4 reasons :

- they maintain a good output voltage under operational current (stationnary @ 30 amp, smooth aerobatics @50 Amp, and peak current @75 Amp in "hard" situations)

- they are very reliable under these high currents. No risk of "balloon" transformation, as very cheap batteries (HXT, ...)

- in regards with the 2 previous points, their price remains OK : $136 for a very reliable 4s pack, or $200 for the 6s is a good deal.

- their packaging is reliable. CENTURY packs are a little bit soft and partly damaged by the battery rubber clamps. HYPERION external packaging is hard and no change or deformation observed after months of se(r)vice.


For the example, they provide the same quality/price ratio as Trex-450 3s batteries "AIR THUNDER" that I buy @ your shop.

Best regards,
Gilles

[RcSuperSales-Net]

Hello Kyle,

I really like HYPERION batteries for 4 reasons :

- they maintain a good output voltage under operational current (stationnary @ 30 amp, smooth aerobatics @50 Amp, and peak current @75 Amp in "hard" situations)

- they are very reliable under these high currents. No risk of "balloon" transformation, as very cheap batteries (HXT, ...)

- in regards with the 2 previous points, their price remains OK : $136 for a very reliable 4s pack, or $200 for the 6s is a good deal.

- their packaging is reliable. CENTURY packs are a little bit soft and partly damaged by the battery rubber clamps. HYPERION external packaging is hard and no change or deformation observed after months of se(r)vice.


For the example, the provide the same quality/price ratio as Trex-450 3s batteries "AIR THUNDER" that I buy @ your shop.

Best regards,
Gilles

Cool man thanks for the info. I appreciate that. Make sure to post your setup on the other thread. I think I may have to try out the Hyperion's. Question why are the batts sticking out so far? Is that to balance out the CG? I thought the canopy would cover them. I am considering using the Swift 620 canopy on my 550. I know you have to change the canopy mounting location, does anyone know on how you do that. I haven't actually compared the 550 canopy but I do like the look. I also thought I remembered seeing someone put a Hurricane 550 canopy. Anyone know about that.

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net

[gilles]

Yes,

It is difficult to balance the Swift 16 with 4s battery (anyway with 4000 mA.h, may be not with 5000 mA.h !!!) especialy if additional bling as CNC tail box.

So I move the battery in front of the heli, this involves :
- additional plate (screwed on the original one)
- "surgical" cut on the lower part of canopy

-> with these modification, no more balance problem in 4S/4000. See pictures.

Not so difficult to balance with 6s batt.

Gilles

[Greybird]

Any shops in the US carry Hyperion packs?

[LockMD]

that is just not fair, rubbing it in like that :rolleyes: and not even a whats in the box pic. :D


Its just bunch of bag of parts....nothing is pre-built, this will take me a while to build.

[asw20rr]

Any shops in the US carry Hyperion packs?

ALLeRC carries them. They had HYPERION LITESTORM CL4000-6S on closeout for $139, but looks like they are all gone. I just got another last week - maybe it was the last one. My first two have about 20 cycles and so far so good. I think they were a great buy for the Swift. They do still have the HYPERION LITESTORM CL4800-6S on sale for $199. I guess they have discontinued the CL line. ALLeRC has the Hyperion LCX and VX lines also. Also, google for an allerc discount code. There is usually one available.

- Doug

[RcSuperSales-Net]

I was thinking about picking some up next week. Just not sure on sizes and what not. PM me for the size you want and I'll hook it up with a Nice Swift thread discount. ;) maybe if we get enough people together I can do a big group buy and then hook everyone up for even more. PM me if interested and I'll see what I can swing. I can get all the Hyperion line. EmpireRc is my Hyperion distributor and as far as I know the only U.S. Hyperion distributor. They are right down there by AllERc, I sometimes wonder if they are one and the same. Like I stated before there has never ( for me ) been a demand for the Hyperion batteries. But I have been itching to try some out so I think it will be a good time to get one and maybe compare it to the Outrage pack and see how they both perform on the Swift. But I won't be flying the Swift for a few months yet :(.

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net (http://www.RcSuperSales.net)

[JustPlaneChris]

Related to weight and performance.....Syclic, thanks for the explanation! That makes perfect sense. :)

-Chris

[jamesppp]

I have to add about 3.5 0z. of ballast to the very front bottom of the electronics tray of my Swift to balance it properly with 3700-4000mah packs. Im using a lead egg sinker attached with a heavy duty tie wrap.

I would prefer to add something useful in place of the dead weight of a chunk of lead. I cut out the bottom of the canopys but leave the "scoop" intact and I can use the standard cf battery tray and the C of G is perfect. This leaves the profile view of the canopy unchanged.

I have considered an on board 4 cell ni-cd receiver pack in place of the lead but dont know how to properly wire it into the receiver as a redundant power source using the existing high voltage ESC I have the ESC wired into an UBEC so it only takes a single plug into the receiver.

At this point, with my flying skills being what they are (poor), the extra weight isnt causing any problems and probably helps with stability. I just like the idea of balancing the ship with something useful.

Any ideas?

[LockMD]

Can I get your guys' opinions on what servos to install on the Swift 620SE?

Hobby shop says S9252 and will sell to me for 70/ea a little steep, are they worth it or do ya'll suggest something different?

Thanks

[Gadget01]

dont know how to properly wire it into the receiver as a redundant power source using the existing high voltage ESC I have the ESC wired into an UBEC so it only takes a single plug into the receiver. To disable the ESC's BEC, just pull the red wire out of the 3-pin connector that plugs into the throttle channel. There are little tabs that retain the pins in the connector. Very gently, pull the tab away just enough to clear the detent in the pin and it will slide right out. Cover the bare pin with heat-shrink tubing and it's done. If you want to restore it, just cut the shrink tubing off and slide the pin back in until it clicks into place. The UBEC's input power can come from the same battery pack used to power the ESC. This is very common practice and there's nothing wrong with it. Personally, I prefer a separate power source for this. If anything goes wrong with the main pack from being stressed hard or whatever, I know I will still have control for an autorotation landing.

I just like the idea of balancing the ship with something useful.

Any ideas? I power the UBEC in my Swift with a 3S 2100 lipo. Overkill, sure... but it was already in my inventory with nothing else to do. It's mounted under the front tray and helps just enough to get the CG right. It lasts several flights. I usually top it off whenever I charge my Tx.

[helitaiwan963]

Can I get your guys' opinions on what servos to install on the Swift 620SE?

Hobby shop says S9252 and will sell to me for 70/ea a little steep, are they worth it or do ya'll suggest something different?

Thanks
Well, i don't have a swift 620se but i have a Eraptor E620SE and i sorta steered away from the 9252's due to their price so i settled upon the Futaba S3050's. They are digital and MG servos and i've been running them so far with no troubles and they work the cyclic awesome! With the S3050's, their specs on 6V are similar to the 9252's so i run them on 6volts.

[RcSuperSales-Net]

Can I get your guys' opinions on what servos to install on the Swift 620SE?

Hobby shop says S9252 and will sell to me for 70/ea a little steep, are they worth it or do ya'll suggest something different?

Thanks

The DS20-GMD's (http://store.rcsupersales.net/servlet/-strse-2007/HYPERION-ATLAS-DS20-dsh-GMD-DS20GMD/Detail) should work great. And fully metal Gears! I am contemplating on those or the JRDS821's I have already. Not yet sure what I will do.

Chris,

Related to weight and performance.

For the same amount of true (where the battery has been tested to honestly give what the numbers state or the numbers are taken from actual testing) watt potential, used on the same heli, geared to turn the same rotor speeds, on the same blades, then weight can directly be considered as a percent power loading increase or decrease.........................


WOAH Great info man! I think I may add that to the Swift Setup thread if you don't mind. Very good info to have as a reference. I wouldn't want that getting lost.

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net (http://www.RcSuperSales.net)

[JustPlaneChris]

The 9252 is a very good choice, but definitely a bit pricey. I'm using 3050's on my Hawk, and they are very strong and have dual ball bearings on the output shaft too. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. I have no experience with the servo Kyle recommends, so I can't comment on that one.

-Chris

[helitaiwan963]

:D so JPC uses the 3050's too...and says their good:D So maybe i did make a good choice :eek: LOL.

anyway, call me crazy but...i just don't like the way my swift flys:( Just doesn't "feel" right to me. So my swift maybe will be up for sale in a little bit. PM me if anyone is looking for one. I just can't decribe it but just doesn't feel right.

anyway:D i got my mini T flying inverted today!!!! Actually flying...not just flips held longer:D now...backwards. that is what you call tricky. LOL. I can't even do it on the sim yet:(

[jamesppp]

To disable the ESC's BEC, just pull the red wire out of the 3-pin connector that plugs into the throttle channel. There are little tabs that retain the pins in the connector. Very gently, pull the tab away just enough to clear the detent in the pin and it will slide right out. Cover the bare pin with heat-shrink tubing and it's done. If you want to restore it, just cut the shrink tubing off and slide the pin back in until it clicks into place. The UBEC's input power can come from the same battery pack used to power the ESC. This is very common practice and there's nothing wrong with it. Personally, I prefer a separate power source for this. If anything goes wrong with the main pack from being stressed hard or whatever, I know I will still have control for an autorotation landing.

I power the UBEC in my Swift with a 3S 2100 lipo. Overkill, sure... but it was already in my inventory with nothing else to do. It's mounted under the front tray and helps just enough to get the CG right. It lasts several flights. I usually top it off whenever I charge my Tx.


Gadget, the Castle High Voltage ESC's dont come with a built in BEC and I have an UBEC with the CC 45HV wired directly to it so it only plugs in to 1 channel of the Rx instead of taking up 2 channels.If I didnt have this setup, I would use a battery pack for the needed ballast. Maybe Ill get some data logging equipment and mount it up front where the fishing weight is.

TRhe UBEC seems to really help everything run nice and cool too. I just put a Castle switching 10A BEC on my new Beam with a CC 35 ESC. I pulled the pin out of the connector of the ESC since the non H V Castles have the built in BEC. I did this mainly to help keep the system running cool. I think the Scorpion motor on this thing is a screamer and some run hot without a seperate BEC.

[RcSuperSales-Net]

The 9252 is a very good choice, but definitely a bit pricey. I'm using 3050's on my Hawk, and they are very strong and have dual ball bearings on the output shaft too. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. I have no experience with the servo Kyle recommends, so I can't comment on that one.

-Chris

I don't have experience with them yet but I have sold quite a few so far and everyone loves them including Finless Bob. That is who I actually got the idea from about using them for cyclic servos. He said they are so nice and they are inexpensive he was gonna try them for some cyclic servos. I will definitely be using it for my Tail servo. I had these Spektrum ones from my Spektrum DX7 purchase so I figured I would use them but I am now thinking about selling them and running the Hyperion DS20-GMD's all the way around. I could not believe the specs and they are metal gears for only $43.80! That blew my mind. That is why I wanted Bob to review them and get his experienced thoughts about them. Here's the video he did on setting it up as a tail servo: Hyperion DS 20 Review (http://store.rcsupersales.net/Videos/HyperionDS20GMDTailVideoFinless.wmv) You can go to helifreak and watch the flight video of the Gohbee Phazor 600 to see how it performs. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=71561 (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=71561)

Happy and Safe flying this weekend! I will be getting to fly next weekend at our funfly and hopefully may have an Outrage G5 put together and flying there to show off :D Not me to show off, but to show the Outrage off and get some experienced flyers flying it. We shall see :D

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net (http://www.RcSuperSales.net)

[Gadget01]

I recently aquired some synthetic bearing grease to use on thrust bearings. So, I removed the blade grips to access and lube the thrust bearings in the cnc head of my Swift. I found the inner radial bearing of one of the grips very notchy. I had to hammer it out from the other side. I never had to work so hard to remove a bearing. As best I can tell, the blade grip's bearing seat is not bored to accurate tolerances- it's too tight.

I replaced this bearing with one from the stock plastic blade grip. The bearing came out with little effort. Pressing this bearing into the cnc grip was not easy, as expected. I attempted to make it easier by using high-grit sandpaper to try and taper the inside edge a little, and then cleaning and applying bearing lube. What was a perfecly smoothly spinning bearing is now just barely notchy after installation, but still smooth enough that I'll run with it- far better than the other bearing that I removed. I'll check it again in a month or so.

[LockMD]

The 9252 is a very good choice, but definitely a bit pricey. I'm using 3050's on my Hawk, and they are very strong and have dual ball bearings on the output shaft too. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. I have no experience with the servo Kyle recommends, so I can't comment on that one.

-Chris


Well since this bird is sooo expensive and got your responses a tad late. I decided to go with the 9252's and a 9254 on the tail. Yeah pricey, but for what the bird costs I figured I'd better not skimp on servos.

I will however check into some 3050's for my ES600, currently running DS821's but now am finding out they may not be the best choice.

[Cloud Cruiser]

Any shops in the US carry Hyperion packs?


http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-Batteries-cln-Lipos--dsh--Hyperion/Categories

[jamesppp]

JPC



Heli World has some good discounts on Hawk Pro upgrades:

http://www.heli-world.com/searchresult.aspx?categoryid=560,

[QuietRCFly]

Any shops in the US carry Hyperion packs?

http://www.quietrcflying.com/

[RcSuperSales-Net]

http://www.quietrcflying.com/

Bellevue :eek: You are practically up the road from me :) I am down in Yelm. But we are moving to Montana this summer. You guys fly helis at all? If so we are having a big funfly next weekend. Gonna be great! You should try and make it if you guys can come that far. www.HotStartHeli.com Strictly heli event though. Take care!

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net

[Cloud Cruiser]

Tomorrow is a Big day for me and my Swift. It will be the first time that I'll be flying in idle up 1 and 2. I just changed my pitch and throttle curves to accommodate. My plan is to switch to idle up 1 at 1/2 stick on the ground, and then switch back to normal before landing.

Here is my curves:

normal- pitch 5-2-0-5-10 throttle 0-45-80-85-90
idle 1- pitch 5-2-0-5-10 throttle 95-90-85-90-95
idle 2- pitch 10-5-0-5-10 throttle 100-95-90-95-100
hold- pitch 5-2-0-5-10

We'll see how things go tomorrow morning!!! :)

[jamesppp]

Tomorrow is a Big day for me and my Swift. It will be the first time that I'll be flying in idle up 1 and 2. I just changed my pitch and throttle curves to accommodate. My plan is to switch to idle up 1 at 1/2 stick on the ground, and then switch back to normal before landing.

Here is my curves:

normal- pitch 5-2-0-5-10 throttle 0-45-85-90-95
idle 1- pitch 5-2-0-5-10 throttle 95-90-85-90-95
idle 2- pitch 10-5-0-5-10 throttle 100-95-90-95-100
hold- pitch 5-2-0-5-10

We'll see how things go tomorrow morning!!! :)


Looks like you plan to flip it over to me... :D

[CryHavoc]

Well my Swift tales came to woe...... My brand new 550 Carbon completely grenaded itself in midair on its 3rd flight.

Before this heli I had a standard 16 that I had two flights on before I came into the funds and bought this 550.

I had changed some components and on the first lift off I could tell the head speed was a tad high. I immediately landed, hit throttle hold and lowered my throttle curve down to 70% across the board thinking I could always raise it back-up as needed. I powered back up and got into a high hover. I was thinking it was sounding good and smooth just like my previous flights and that the tracking was still spot on when all of a sudden I heard a whack and pieces were raining down all over. Its basically completely destroyed including the brand new Flightpower 6S 4900 pack. Even the metal motor mount is bent into an S shape. The boom is bent into an L shape. It was hit so hard it was ripped out of the heli and thrown about 20 yards. the boom supports are still attached except for the plastic ends that were attached to the skids. The aft canopy mounts were ripped out of the frames but the canopy (I had a plastic one on it) survived. I still haven't brought the wreckage in to completely go over it but the main shaft is bent so bad I'm sure the top bearing block is toast. Almost all the linkages were broke or thrown off or both. The landing gear is completely toast although it looks like I could reuse the skid tubes. The tail boom was so quickly and violently torn from the heli that it looks like the tail assembly and blades didn't have time to sustain any damage.

The blade and blade grip that hit the boom are still on the rotor head. The other blade grip is on the rotor head but the hole that the blade bolt went through is completely ripped apart. I found the Blade about 50 yards away as well as HALF the blade bolt. I could not find the other half.

I haven't had the "gumption" to go get all the wreckage out and fully inspect it yet but so far what I've seen one of three things happened.

1) A link or linkages came off causing a high speed boom strike which caused the ensuing damage during which the other blade ripped through the blade grip shearing the blade bolt.

2) The blade bolt failed which allowed the blade to rip out causing the ensuing damage which included a violent high speed boom strike.

3) The top or bottom "arm" of the blade grip failed first which caused the blade bolt to shear and allow the blade to depart with the ensuing damage to include a violent high speed boom strike.

In a nut shell, either the blade grip, blade bolt, or a linkage failed or some combination of the three.

Mike

[Gadget01]

wow! Sorry to hear it. Sounds like quite a loss.

[ghopper]

Mike,
Sorry for your loss. I finally got a chance to try my maiden.....sort of. Here is my story.

I spooled it up with my first pack yesterday and was just checking blade tracking and making sure no blades flew off. I was having some trouble and had left my canopy off. Took it back to the basement and worked on the canopy and put 530 mah back into the A123 pack. It took about 30 minutes to charge the 3s and 4s packs combined. I took it back outside and started to spool up again. As I was just getting light on the skids the nose turned about 10 degrees to the left and the tail started kicking some small rocks so I backed off. I wasn't a hundred percent sure of the gyro, so I took it in to check. The gyro definately is set up with correct orientation. The 10 degree rotation probably was just normal until the gyro caught up to the less weight and rotor torque. The rocks did scuff my tail blades a tad. That was all I got to try yesterday. Next attempt will be on plywood to really be able to gauge the gyro perfomance and keep the rocks out of it.

Just call me cautious Dan

[Cloud Cruiser]

Mike, I'm also sorry to hear about your Swift. I know first hand about rebuilding after a major crash. The difference is, in my case it was pilot error.
Keep your chin up.

Robert

[Cloud Cruiser]

Just back from flying this morning, 26 minutes total skids off the ground flying time. Everything went good. I'm loving the Swift more each time I fly.

Robert

[jamesppp]

Cry Havoc,
I hate to hear about your bad luck. What kind of headspeed do you think you were running? Dont let it get you down.


Now, let me mention a bit about Roberts first foray into the "Idle Up Zone"

Robert, not being one to brag, isnt telling the whole story. Bear in mind that that neither of us have ever seen helis fly till we started flying them, and he didnt start till April 5th of this year.

He was flipping it, making smooth axial rolls, and large loops. I was amazed as Im still only putzing around close in flying in the OF mode. His first roll was only a tad uneven but after that most of them were perfect. He was taking off in normal mode and flipping between Idle up 1 and 2 depending on what move he was planning to do next.

He is flying with his thumbs too. Some people just are naturally good at this...Im definitely not one of them, he is. I really enjoyed watching someone getting some performance from a Swift. Ive seen all the videos, but this os the first time Ive seen it in real time.

I just had to brag a little bit about my modest flying buddy.

By the way, Im ordering a training cord and taking some lessons.

[steve bisco]

Hi, just got my Swift 550 carbon set up, gyro, ccpm, throttle curves, pitch curves, esc, takes a while dont it ? you need a little peace and quite when doing it, still had my first hover in the garden, very windy but it flys :) head speed seems a little slow to what im used to but still quite lively on the sticks, its only running a 9 tooth pinion with a 4cell pack, should I go up on the pinion size? what flight time should I expect from this set up, all up flying weight is 6. 1/2 lb still cant believe that battery flys that model at that weight, but it does and feels good, but will it kill my cells? :confused: oh and I put the esc at the back and the rx at the front.
Thanks
Steve

[High speed pass]

Steve

If you are running the 600+ motor you should go to a 12 tooth pinion when using 4 cells. A 9 tooth pinion will give you a really slow head speed with 4 cells.
A 6 cell battery of 3700 to 4000 mAh is what you should really be running with the 9 tooth pinion.
Greg

[steve bisco]

Steve

If you are running the 600+ motor you should go to a 12 tooth pinion when using 4 cells. A 9 tooth pinion will give you a really slow head speed with 4 cells.
A 6 cell battery of 3700 to 4000 mAh is what you should really be running with the 9 tooth pinion.
Greg

Yeah I thought as much, my 4cell is 4350mah hope its going to be ok, my old ECO 8 is only 4,1/2 lb with cells in, but I keep telling myself the Swift will fly even being 6.1/2lb ready to go! so a 12 pinion it is.
Thanks

[Spidious]

Can somebody take a picture of the gear set up ?
A 9t pinion seems amazingly small for a 5mm motor shaft ?

[LockMD]

Hi, just got my Swift 550 carbon set up, gyro, ccpm, throttle curves, pitch curves, esc, takes a while dont it ? you need a little peace and quite when doing it, still had my first hover in the garden, very windy but it flys :) head speed seems a little slow to what im used to but still quite lively on the sticks, its only running a 9 tooth pinion with a 4cell pack, should I go up on the pinion size? what flight time should I expect from this set up, all up flying weight is 6. 1/2 lb still cant believe that battery flys that model at that weight, but it does and feels good, but will it kill my cells? :confused: oh and I put the esc at the back and the rx at the front.
Thanks
Steve



COOL pics, taking a break from building the 620SE, so basically it should like very similar to yours when done?

[Gadget01]

Can somebody take a picture of the gear set up ?
A 9t pinion seems amazingly small for a 5mm motor shaft ? The 9t pinion is the smallest usable pinion. They make an 8t, but they lose teeth.

Steve, the only direct way to know if the setup exceeds the battery pack's abilities is to use a data logger. Your 4S packs are going to have their work cut out for them. A 4S 4350mah is not that much more than what I fly my Eco 8 with, and it's swinging 463mm blades. Try an 11t pinion first and see how hot the packs get and go from there.

[QuietRCFly]

Bellevue :eek: You are practically up the road from me :) I am down in Yelm. But we are moving to Montana this summer. You guys fly helis at all? If so we are having a big funfly next weekend. Gonna be great! You should try and make it if you guys can come that far. www.HotStartHeli.com Strictly heli event though. Take care!

Kyle
www.RcSuperSales.net

No we do not fly or sell helis, at least at this point. We will actually be at the Annual Puget Sound Electric Model Fly-In at the RAMS field in Sumner next weekend, but appreciate the offer.

Chris

Quiet RC Flying
www.quietrcflying.com

[High speed pass]

Steve,

I have to agree with Gadget01. The 4350 pack is going to be worked pretty hard.
Your Carbon swift is almost a half pound heavier than mine and I am flying it with a 5000 4 cell pack with the 550+ motor.

Greg

[steve bisco]

Steve,

I have to agree with Gadget01. The 4350 pack is going to be worked pretty hard.
Your Carbon swift is almost a half pound heavier than mine and I am flying it with a 5000 4 cell pack with the 550+ motor.

Greg

I have just ordered the 12, I am feeling less confident about this whole set at the moment, I bought the Swift so I could use the 4cell packs out of my eco, as I had seen video of the swift flying well on them, but deep down I am sure I will have to change to a 5 cell. :(
Steve

[Gadget01]

You could run 2 of these packs in parallel if they are matched up well enough. Greybird flies his Swift 16 with 4S 10,000mah packs, so a 4S2P 8700mah (effective) pack would probably work fine as a medium-long duration flyer.

[steve bisco]

You could run 2 of these packs in parallel if they are matched up well enough. Greybird flies his Swift 16 with 4S 10,000mah packs, so a 4S2P 8700mah (effective) pack would probably work fine as a medium-long duration flyer.

Thanks, no one seems to run on a 5 cell, do you have to go for a 6 ? going out now just for a hover and see how hot the cells get, I am still only running a 9t pinion but it might give me some Idea, thanks for all the replies
:)

[jamesppp]

Thanks, no one seems to run on a 5 cell, do you have to go for a 6 ? going out now just for a hover and see how hot the cells get, I am still only running a 9t pinion but it might give me some Idea, thanks for all the replies
:)

My buddy and myself are flying on 5 cell packs with the 1100kv motors. It works great. Im using a Castle HV45 ESC and he had the Century Electron 80.
Both Swifts have seperate BEC's. Everything stays nice and cool. I use 3700-5000mah packs. You can get True RC 4000 packs for 100.00 the 5000 is only a few dollars more. They are no high C rated but work well. The X-Cite 4100 packs in 5S are about 125.00 and are 20-25C rated. All of these packs come down just barely warm,

I get 6 minutes on an FP 3700, 7 minutes on a 4000 and 8+ on a 5000mah using about 75% capacity.
Im only using a 9t pinion now but have a 10t to try.

Good Luck,

Jimmy

[syclic]

I have flown my Swift 16 & Swift550SE Carbon (600+/55A Century ESC) on 4 cell (3300, 3700, 4000 & 5000 packs) on 10T, 11T and 12T pinions, and also know a number of people who have done and still do the same. As long as the pack is a quality one, with honest C rating all worked very well. These yielded head speeds from 1400 to 1750.

The lower the pinion tooth count, the lower the head speed and the less demanding it will be on the power pack and the longer will be the flights. Of course, the higher the tooth count, the higher the head speed (which also makes faster cyclic & collective response) and the shorter the flights.

I have also done the same using the same motor and the same 55A Century ESC, using 5 cell (3700 and 4900) packs with (9T, 10T & 11T). Also with great success. Again the same rules as above re: flight times and head speeds apply.

Ditto for the same set-up with the 80A Century ESC and the 6 cell (3700 & 4900 packs) on 9T an 10T - This is a YEEHAW set up, specially on 10T)

As you can see the 600+ motor is very versatile. IMHO, the best bang for the buck and power to weight ratio, using 515 to 530mm blades, is the 5 cell combination with a pinion to suit for the head speed desired.

[steve bisco]

Well took the 550 out this afternoon, only just about flys on that 9t pinion, only did some gentle circuits but would not dare try anything else, still, no glitching and easy to fly but still tail heavy, so its a start, flying for 5mins and getting 2200mah back into the 4350 4 cell. Thinking of just going for a 6cell now, so dont think my Phonix 60amp esc will be ok? Hopefully my 12t pinion should be here tomorrow so I can give that a go on the 4cell, just one other thing, got a heavy vibration on spool up, and spool down, really smooth though in idle up its just as its slows up after the flight.
Thanks
Steve

[Cloud Cruiser]

Hi Steve, that "chicken dance" is common on the swift. Mine does it. One of the reasons is the tall landing gear.

Robert

[steve bisco]

Hi Steve, that "chicken dance" is common on the swift. Mine does it. One of the reasons is the tall landing gear.

Robert

Ah, so nothing to worry about?? I have not seen any others doing it, one of my other helis does it, but thats a 1979 Morely 47G :)

[Kawasaki297]

The common cure for this is to sand down the ball in the center of the feathering shaft. It helped a lot on mine but did not cure it completely. I am not sure if this is still an issue with newer kits.

Cheers

[JustPlaneChris]

Okay guys, I've started running into a problem with my Swift that I've never had before, mainly because I've never pushed it this hard before! The tail isn't holding when I try a move I've been practicing with my Dragonus. It goes like this:

I start with a fast pass into a vertical climb. I go to zero pitch at the top but instead of a 180° yaw and back down forwards, I let it tailslide backwards. As it comes down I apply aft cyclic and negative collective, exiting the tailslide inverted / backwards. I let it build a bit of speed then come back in with the aft cyclic until it transitions into a vertical climb (backwards) at which point I go to zero pitch, roll 180°, and dive nose-first back into upright forward flight going in the opposite direction from which I started.

It's really fun with the Dragonus! But with the Swift, as I exit the tailslide and transition into the vertical tail-first climb, the heli just smoothly swaps ends. :(

I'm running a 401 / 9254 and K&B blades trimmed to stock Swift blade length (slightly wider chord). Up to this point I've had no issues with tail holding, but I've never been this aggressive. Do you guys think it's time to put an 11T pinion on and go for 2100+ rpm? That will mean probably only 4.5 or 5 minutes from my A123 (getting 6 now) and I'll definitely need to invest in CF blades. I'm just a bit puzzled by the lack of holding power at 1800-1900 rpm. :confused:

-Chris

[Gadget01]

My Swift is running 2000-ish rpms and I'm sometimes surprised when I'm flying it up high in the wind how I struggle with the tail. I'm thinking of trying slightly longer tail blades. My Eco 8 runs the same length blades, yet the mains are 463mm vs the 515's for the Swift.

Is your gyro gain cranked up high enough? Is it at all tail-heavy?

[JustPlaneChris]

You're right, Gadget... they do seem like stubby little blades. Gain is something I should mess with, and see if I can get it any higher without wagging. CG is spot-on.

-Chris

[jamesppp]

Ah, so nothing to worry about?? I have not seen any others doing it, one of my other helis does it, but thats a 1979 Morely 47G :)


Steve, if you are a bit tail heavy, slide your 4S pack forward about 2". I see you have a pretty large flight pack on your electronics tray. I have only a light CC HV45 Esc on my tray and I have to move my 5S lipo packs much farther forward and use a 3.5ov lead weight on the front of my tray to balance my Swift properly.

I just have enough battery behind the landing struts to get a velcro strap around the pack. You should be able to move your 4S pack forawrd enough to balance the heli without cutting the bottom of the canopy "scoop" out with the thinner 4S packs

Another thing that seems to help with the chicken dance on spool up and down is to spread the landing gear struts a little farther apart in the front and rear then lock the skid pipes in this position with the set screws. Increasing the distance between the struts 8-10mm helped calm mine down a lot.I dont think I have the latest version of the landing struts on my Swift. It was shaking more than it did with the newer set on before I spread them out..


Im looking for some advice on tachometers. I would like one that will go up to 3200-3300rps, is easy to use and doesnt cost too much (if possible) :rolleyes: Any ideas on brands and places to get them??
Jimmy

[steve bisco]

Thanks, I am looking for around 2000 rpm, so what do you think you are getting on that 5 cell and what pinion you running? there was a guy over the field last night with a brand new T Rex 600 fantastic M/C it was singing, the battery pack is right up the front, he showed me the size of the pack, how you could get that in the swift I do not know, I know I havent really given the Swift a chance yet, but its been crossing my mind all day to just give up on the Swift and get the 600, the reason I bought the Swift was to use my 4 cell packs, but now it seems to get the performance out of it I need a 6cell, so if I am going to a 6 cell think I might as well buy the 600, any thoughts, the Swift looks so dated to the 600. :(
Thanks
Steve

[jamesppp]

5S pack with an 11t pinion =2100rpm's at 90% effiency

[swatson144]

Thanks, I am looking for around 2000 rpm, so what do you think you are getting on that 5 cell and what pinion you running? there was a guy over the field last night with a brand new T Rex 600 fantastic M/C it was singing, the battery pack is right up the front, he showed me the size of the pack, how you could get that in the swift I do not know, I know I havent really given the Swift a chance yet, but its been crossing my mind all day to just give up on the Swift and get the 600, the reason I bought the Swift was to use my 4 cell packs, but now it seems to get the performance out of it I need a 6cell, so if I am going to a 6 cell think I might as well buy the 600, any thoughts, the Swift looks so dated to the 600. :(
Thanks
Steve

Running a 600E on 6S is like running a swift on 4S much amps. If you really want a 600E set your swift up for 6S and buy 2 6S packs and 2 of the same 3S packs then you can run the swift on 6s and the 600E on 9s. Got $ ? :D

It sounds like you don't particularly like LV, high current, setups and on that we agree. Give the swift a chance, gear up and spin it.

Steve

[Cloud Cruiser]

My Swift has a little company now!!

Robert