Castle Creations open discussion

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hi All,

I'd like to introduce myself. I am the designer of the Castle Creations line of speed controls (both brushed and brushless.) I also handle production (engineering related), some repairs, and modifications.

I know that some of you might have some questions for me, so I'm opening up a discussion topic for any questions!

[Aviron]

Pat,

My question for you is when are you going to come out with a brushless, sensorless, ESC that handles something like 10-28 cells for us who like them big and powerful. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif I'm sorta stuck with the big A***x controllers at the moment.

2nd, what's all the hub-bub about the reversing on the Dragon-35? Is it working OK? And how are you doing it? (or is that a trade secret?)

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hmmmm. No comment on the brushless sensorless controller, other than work is in progress.

Reversing the Dragon-35? No problems at all. Just because we do it different, doesn't mean that it doesn't work. I run my PicoJet Combat on a D-35, 1005/3Y combo in reverse. Just ask anybody that was at NEAT about how well it works. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

[Gene]

Partrick,
I don't have any questions for you. I just want to thank you for repairing my Pegasus 35 so promptly. It seems that people speak up really loudly when they have a complaint, but they remain silent when they're satisfied. So THANKS!!

[mrneutron]

I have a sprite and a pegasus, I like the value, size and current handling capacity of your ESC's. However I have this odd glitch with them. WHen I get the TX antenna too close to the rx antenna the motor suddenly comes on. My Krontroic and fma mini 20 do do this. I use them on a Zagi and lauch it in a way where my fingers are really close to the prop. I have to always remember not to accidently let the antenna swing too close to the rx when I launch. What's happening with these esc's

[Buzz_Man]

Pat - you KNOW I love your stuff - my CC ESC's have all worked flawlessly & your prices are great. Top quality stuff at great prices - what could anyone else want?

[Fred Bronk]

Patrick, welcome to the Zone, and I am also a big user of your products, and recommend them to all!

I have 8 ESC's from the 7 to 40 AMP, and the Dragon 35!

I even use an older P35 with BEC and 5 servos(not recommended by me or you!),but am converting to the new P35 with double BEC.

Thanks for a great product!

[KMKAZE]

Pat,
I have a Pixie 14. It's my first speed controller. I've always used microswitches.
Few questions.
1) Will the Pixie 14 handle a 9.6v pack going into a S400 6.0v motor? I know it will handle the 7.2v battery I am buying,but will it damage the ESC or anything?
2)Are your BEC's reliable? How high are they on the foodchain of durability? Anything I need to know about them?
3) Does the ESC come with all the wiring I need? I hope so. If yes,then do I need to solder anything?

Thanks ALOT for your time!
By the way,your Speed controll is going on a Herr Engineering's 1/2A AquaStar seaplane,converted over to speed 400. Thanks again.

[Patrick del Castillo]

mrneutron,

I posted a reply under your original posting in this discussion group.

There is a simple fix for this problem, send me your name, address (by email: patrick@castlecreations.com) and how many kits you want. We'll send you a simple upgrade that you can do yourself to take care of this problem. This problem only affects a small number of installations.

The fix involves adding a small ferrite bead to one of the signal wires coming from the receiver.

Patrick

[Patrick del Castillo]

Buzzman & Fred Bronk,

Thanx for your kind words! We are trying to be the premier supplier of ESCs in the US.

Thanx again!

[Andy W]

Hello and welcome,
I don't own any of your products yet as all of my brushless motors have been package deals with controllers. Put me in the "future customer" category. I hear good things about you here, and I believe you and I have a mutual friend here in Marietta who is itching to get his hands on something you are working on.. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif I'll be curious to see how that works out - any chance of high cell-count controllers (like 40 cells)?
..a
..a

[Patrick del Castillo]

Originally posted by KMKAZE:
Pat,

Few questions.
1) Will the Pixie 14 handle a 9.6v pack going into a S400 6.0v motor? I know it will handle the 7.2v battery I am buying,but will it damage the ESC or anything?

No problem, as long as you don't exceed the current rating of the Pixie.

2)Are your BEC's reliable? How high are they on the foodchain of durability? Anything I need to know about them?

Very reliable. As high on the foodchain for durability as it gets. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif However, in the smaller controls (Pixie and Sprite) they cannot handle as many cells as some larger controllers, due to the fact that they don't have a lot of heat sink. Stick to the recommended cell ranges, and you won't have any problem with them at all.

3) Does the ESC come with all the wiring I need? I hope so. If yes,then do I need to solder anything?

You will need to solder the controller to the motor, and also a connector to the controller (battery connector)
The Pixie-14 comes with all the wiring you need, but you will need to supply a battery connector. (this is because everybody has their own favorite connector -- I don't want to make the decision for you!)

Thanks ALOT for your time!

[Peter Mar]

Pat:

Based upon good press on this site I purchased a Pixie 14 from ECMC.

It arrived in late August and I have yet to install or solder connectors. How can I tell if it has the new software re: self adjusting end points?

Thanx.

Peter

[docphi]

Pat,

Any word on the Dragon35 for the Astro brushless motors? Thanks!

[aprobert]

Patrick,

Thanks for making yourself available for questions! Now mine: Which of your controllers self-calibrating rather than having fixed end-points? (I didn't realize there was a difference until the recent Controlling Interest column came out.) I have an Astro 215D fixed end-point controller, and can't get full power from it.

Also, if one has a dual power setup in a twin motor airplane (totally seperate motors, controllers, and battery, with a Y connection at the RX) with BEC, what will happen when one battery drains or shorts. Will the other pack try to charge the bad one through its controller and drain the good pack? (The dual arrangement is used in the Kyosho Learjet.)

Thanks,

Andy

[Mark Wood]

Hiya Pat and welcome to The E-Zone! We chatted a few days ago about JK Aerotech E-planes and running 4 servos on 8 & 10 cells with Griffin 40s. It's really great having the people that we deal with drop in to answer questions and just generally be a part of our community. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/biggrin.gif
BTW: Yer wifey's http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/cool.gif. Give her our best regards!

[This message has been edited by groundloop (edited 10-08-2000).]

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hi again all!

Peter Mar: You can tell after you hook it up. If it beeps the motor twice when armed (two short quiet beeps) then it has the new software. If the motor doesn't beep when armed, you have the older software. There really isn't much difference, you should still be able to get full range out of the older software too.

aprobert: If you have separate setups, (separate battery, motor and controller) for each side, the batteries will not try to charge (or anything else like that) through the radio connectors. I'm wondering, though, why you don't do a series connection for the batteries and use just a single controller? I would think that that would prevent problems with power imbalances that would occur when one battery didn't have as much juice as the other.

groundloop: Thanx!


'Til next time, I'm going flying!!

Patrick

[Mark Wood]

Originally posted by Patrick del Castillo:
'Til next time, I'm going flying! He's got priorities too! http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/cool.gif

[jrb]

Why are'nt "arming" switches (i.e. Jeti) used w/your ESCs?

I consider this an important safety feature, nad really miss it when udins my Pixie 14, actually considering replacing the P14 with a Jeti 110.

Also, it just seems like a good idea to me to switch off power to all of the electronics within the ESC, rather putting a switc in the BEC. Any comments?

[electricrcflyer]

Hi Pat. I use Castle Creations Sprite 20
and 25 for my speed 400 planes. My only "problem" w/ the 20 is the brake...it goes like this:
In two of my planes, during landing (when I throttle completely OFF), the propellers (I use a regular on one and a folding prop on one)are still spinning (LOW RPM though). In a sailplane where I use the folding prop, even w/ throttle off in flight, I could still see the propeller spinning. I consider these a "minor" problem but am wondering why this is happening.

Other than the above, I've never had interference or other problems, etc.


THANKS.

rON

[This message has been edited by electricrcflyer (edited 10-08-2000).]

[GYROGEARLOOSE]

Originally posted by jrb:
Why are'nt "arming" switches (i.e. Jeti) used w/your ESCs?

I consider this an important safety feature, nad really miss it when udins my Pixie 14, actually considering replacing the P14 with a Jeti 110.

Also, it just seems like a good idea to me to switch off power to all of the electronics within the ESC, rather putting a switc in the BEC. Any comments?

I totaly agree. But you can accomplish this your self on the P-14 rather than replacing it. Just do as Astroflight does and solder a toggle switch in the positive lead between the battery and the ESC.
-gyro-

[Greg Covey]

Hi Patrick,

I've been beating the crap out of your Pixie-14 and I can't seem to kill it! Now my buddies are using them along with some Sprite-25s.

[seabee]

Welcome to the zone You have great service and products keep them coming I would also like a brushless controller that would handle large amounts of cells http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/biggrin.gif

[Philipp]

If you answered Andy's question, I missed it " . . . 40 cell controllers?" Actually, I would be happy with one for 28 cells.

[uglyplane]

Pat,
I want to add to the volumes of praise too. I own 1 Sprite 25 and 4? Pixie14's. The only flaw I have ever had (which was promptly resolved) was the label on the Sprit was backwards, causing me to smoke the ESC. I only use CC ESC's (except for my AF 020BL)
I had a Jeti once which is no longer working.
I tell all my friends and people enquiring about e-flight to buy CC products.

Bill Nale

[jrb]

Gyro,

I would prefer if the switch were inncluded by the ESC mfg. A very small switch and wire can be used to turn on/off the ESC electronics rather using than a high current switch and wires as you've suggested.

[steveu]

Patrick,

I will be purchasing one of your controllers in the future, but am concerned about the low BEC cutoff voltage (4.7 volts). I use anywhere from 7 to 10 cell packs and often fly till the BEC cuts off (I know I shouldn't). Is there any chance that you might increase the low voltage cutoff point, or better yet, switch to the method used by some other controllers to set the cutoff voltage based on the initial pack voltage?

Thanks,
Steve

[aprobert]

Patrick,

The reason one might want a dual vs series setup in a twin is that your controllers are limited to 10 cells with BEC, or 16 without BEC. So, I'd have to go without BEC and add the weight of a pack for the RX and servos. I'd also be limiting the volts per motor to 8 cells' worth (motors in series), or be pushing the amp limit of the controller (motors in parallel).

For example, if one wanted to hop-up the Kyosho Learjet with 10 cells per motor, a dual arrangement would be the only way to go using your controllers.

Also, your web site doesn't say if your controllers have fixed end points or are self-adjusting. Which are they?

Thanks,

Andy

[jrb]

Patrick,

Thanks for understanding the importance of my question; you've put the challenge to us to help you help us.

A follow-up, do AF & Jeti just switch the BEC off/on? This I find most disturbing and not "safe" at all. Did/does Jeti do it different whether it microprocessor or not? My Jeti 14 (non-micro) often gives the motor a burst when I switch it off; though this has never happened with my 350 & 180 (w/micro).

The main reason I like a switch isn't at arming; but rather to disarm while recovering a model after a flight. That is: turn of the ESC, then the TX, carry the plane back to the pits, and finally remove hatches, wings, etc. to disconnect the battery.

If your proposed switch turns off the ESC electronics I think its great; for those who don't want a switch they could easily remove the switch -- its easier to remove (even reinstall later) a switch than not having one to begin with.

My vote is for a proper switch, and let the guys who want to remove it.

Thanks,

Jim B.

[electricrcflyer]

Thanks Patrick, will try your suggestion.

[Andy W]

Originally posted by jrb:
A follow-up, do AF & Jeti just switch the BEC off/on? This I find most disturbing and not "safe" at all. Did/does Jeti do it different whether it microprocessor or not? My Jeti 14 (non-micro) often gives the motor a burst when I switch it off; though this has never happened with my 350 & 180 (w/micro).


I can speak for the Jeti's. The switch simply is inline between the BEC output and the receiver - it simply cuts the +ve connection to the receiver. So when it's "Off", the ESC and BEC are still live, just the receiver doesn't see any voltage. That's probably why the motor sometimes fires up - the receiver may give out a false signal on the throttle channel as the voltage dies, and the ESC simply obeys the signal and fires up the motor. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif
I know because I installed a "BEC disable" switch in my Jeti 35's wire to the receiver, and thought the provided switch would function as a "arming" switch. To my surprise found that the ESC still functioned as normal when the "arming" switch was "off" and the receiver was getting power from an external source. Note the current draw when the supplied switch is "off" also..
..a

[docphi]

Pat,

I think you may have missed my earlier question. How's the Astro version of the Dragon35 coming along? Any news of it being released soon? Thanks!

[Fred Bronk]

NO SWITCHES! http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/biggrin.gif

Ok, now that I got that out of the way. I have done the switch method on 1 ESC(P14) and never used it.

When you plug in the battery the plane is armed. The plane, safety-switch or not sould be treated as ARMED anyway anytime a battery is plugged in!

A new question for Patrick though; I am getting my Hawk with an Aveox 1412 and a new D35 ready to fly. Can a heatsink be installed on the D35? It won't get much cooling as installed.

Thanks again, when is the next 16+ cell controller coming out?

Thanks again for a great product! http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/biggrin.gif

[Patrick del Castillo]

Originally posted by jrb:
Patrick,

Thanks for understanding the importance of my question; you've put the challenge to us to help you help us.


I'll try!

Originally posted by jrb:

A follow-up, do AF & Jeti just switch the BEC off/on? This I find most disturbing and not "safe" at all.

I agree.

Originally posted by jrb:

The main reason I like a switch isn't at arming; but rather to disarm while recovering a model after a flight. That is: turn of the ESC, then the TX, carry the plane back to the pits, and finally remove hatches, wings, etc. to disconnect the battery.


What I do is this: After I pick up my model, (being careful of the prop) I turn off the TX for about a second, moving the throttle up to the middle. Then I turn the TX back on. This disables the controller (if it is a Castle Creations controller) and prevents it from rearming.

Originally posted by jrb:

If your proposed switch turns off the ESC electronics I think its great; for those who don't want a switch they could easily remove the switch -- its easier to remove (even reinstall later) a switch than not having one to begin with.


You don't ever want to turn off the ESC electronics. With a battery connected, that would be bad http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif
I think I understand what you want though... A way to completely disable the ESC so that there is no chance of it arming.

I think the best solution would be a switch to disable the ESC without disabling the BEC. That way, if you switched it off on launch (or if it vibrated off during flight,) at least you would still have control of the model. No power, but control.
However, the method I described above (to disable the ESC after landing) works well, and requires no switches.

Patrick

[Mark Wolf]

Patrick,

Any news on the Dragon 35 helicopter software?

Mark Wolf

[Patrick del Castillo]

Wow! Lots of questions. Here's the answers:


jrb: I don't like switches. I don't think they are necessary with a controller with safe arming. If you don't want the controller to arm, simply place your throttle stick at full when you connect the controller. The controller simply WONT arm.
My reasoning for not liking arming switches is this: if the switch is truly an arming switch (ie, if you hit the switch and then everything is armed from then on, regardless of the position of the switch) it offers no real benefit over an arming system like we now use. If the switch is a switch to the BEC (like Astro and Jeti) there is always the possibility of a failure in the switch (I don't like mechanical devices --they are not very reliable! Especially the cheap switches used in RC) and also the possibility of hitting the switch on launch -- I lost a plane a few years back because I accidently switched off the receiver while hand launching. I haven't used a switch on any of my planes since.
We still, however, get a lot of requests for mechanical switches. We are considering adding a switch harness to the product line -- it would be an external switch that you could use if you wanted to. How about a vote? Thanx for the question!

electricrcflyer: You might have an older set of controllers. They had a "dead zone" where the brake didn't work. Try setting the trim all the way down, or if you have a computer radio, try setting the ATV to a higher percentage.

seabea, Philipp, and others asking about high cell count controllers:
We have a high cell count controller in the works for the brushless systems -- look for them in early spring. We should have them available for the Toledo show.
The brushed motor high cell count controller will follow soon after.

Aprobert: You could go to 18 cells on the Pegasus, or even 20 if you let the packs cool a bit after charging. The Pegasus will accept up to about 28V of input. The Pegasus and Pixie controllers are all self-adjusting, so they would work just fine in a dual installation. The Sprite and Griffin controllers are being switched over to self-adjusting software now. We will also make a non self-adjusting (fixed end point) version available for helis and special purposes where self-adjustment wouldn't be desirable.

Thanx for all the kind words!

Patrick

[steveu]

Paterick,

I'm reposting my question -- you must have missed it in the earlier slew of questions.

Steve


Originally posted by steveu:
Patrick,

I will be purchasing one of your controllers in the future, but am concerned about the low BEC cutoff voltage (4.7 volts). I use anywhere from 7 to 10 cell packs and often fly till the BEC cuts off (I know I shouldn't). Is there any chance that you might increase the low voltage cutoff point, or better yet, switch to the method used by some other controllers to set the cutoff voltage based on the initial pack voltage?

Thanks,
Steve

[jrb]

Thansk for the answer Patrick.

I also like the availabilty of a "brake" on the Jeti, via a removeable shorting plug.

How many want a brake?

Is it difficult to do Patrick; would rather you get my bucks?

PS: still looking for a 60 to 70 amp sensorless controller for twin 1010/2Ys.

[Patrick del Castillo]

Mark Wolf: Finally finished the new heli software for the Dragon-35. Your Dragon shipped back to you yesterday. Sorry for the delay! Please give me some feedback on the new software!

steveu: The cutoff voltage has never been a problem with Nicad batteries -- but with some of the new chemistries (Li-Ion and NiMH) a higher voltage cutoff may be desired. I won't be changing the current line of controls, but we should have some new brushed-motor controllers in the spring -- they will have some awesome features never before seen in an ESC, including programmable cutoff for different battery chemistries.

jrb: We also have controllers with brake, in fact we use a soft delayed brake -- should be fine in any installation, geared or otherwise. I never did understand why someone would want to disable a brake on a controller -- maybe you could give me a reason? It would be possible to add a feature to disable the brake on the Griffin line of controls (in fact, the marine and heli versions of the Griffin have the brake disabled in software,) but I never really saw the point of disabling the brake in an aircraft control. If you can give me a good reason, I would seriously look at modifying the Sprite and Griffin controllers to allow the brake to be disabled.

Thanx for the questions! Keep 'em coming!

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[aze]

Dear Patrick,
After using a couple of your speed controllers I purchased a Pixie-14 from you in Toledo. I have attempted to use it with a Hitec single stick Am radio and a Futaba Skysport (non computer radios) and with only the trims I can not make it work consistently, sometimes works fine for seconds and then quits! So I have not been able to fly with it, is this a problem with the end-points? Please advise.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate your efforts here.

[Patrick del Castillo]

Originally posted by aze:
Dear Patrick,
After using a couple of your speed controllers I purchased a Pixie-14 from you in Toledo. I have attempted to use it with a Hitec single stick Am radio and a Futaba Skysport (non computer radios) and with only the trims I can not make it work consistently, sometimes works fine for seconds and then quits! So I have not been able to fly with it, is this a problem with the end-points? Please advise.
Thank you in advance, I really appreciate your efforts here.

Sounds like a problem with signal noise -- the Pixie has a maximum noise level that it allows -- if it goes above that level the controller will disarm. This is to prevent you from flying when it would be unsafe. If you would like us to check it out for you, you can return it and we'll check it out for no charge.

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[Jim Ryan]

Originally posted by jrb:
Gyro,

I would prefer if the switch were inncluded by the ESC mfg. A very small switch and wire can be used to turn on/off the ESC electronics rather using than a high current switch and wires as you've suggested.

There was a controller on the market a few years ago that a few of us nicknamed "the kitchen sink controller" because it had just about every feature anyone had ever thought to ask for. As it turns out, this approach works even worse for speed controls than it does when MicroSloth is designing software. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/wink.gif

I prefer for a controller to perform its core mission as well as possible. On my Speed 400 planes, I do not use arming switches (personal preference), and if the controller comes with a switch, I remove it.

A switch is a snap to add if you want one, and deleting it is one more way for Patrick to control costs.

Jim

[jrb]

Patrick any news on your sensorless controller? 70 amps would be nice for a twin 1010/2Y upgrade for the Lear, more than ample for 1005s in an EJF Mini A-10! Can you beat Jeti to market here in the US with this? Thee others (K & S) are quite expensive.

Would prefer a real/safe arming switch, as it is tradition (and best practice) at RC field to turn both plane and TX off immediately upon retrieval.

Why would turning off ESC electronics be un-safe; could the FET still close some how?

I thought the switch (S1) shown in Stefan Vorkoetter's ESC w/BEC @: http://www.capable.on.ca/escbec.htm looked like a good and safe idea. Also this type of switch is not easily added post production, but easily removed post production.

[aze]

Thank you for your diagnosis, I will forward it to you.

[MKH]

Patrick, my Pixie 14's, bought a few weeks ago from a dealer, require about half throttle stick before the motor begins to spin. From there, it's very smooth to full throttle, but I'd like some throttle response at lower stick travel. Tx is a Flash 5X. Is this a tx problem, or an esc problem? Suggestions? Thanks for helping.
Marcus

[Daveairway]

I have a Pixie 14 question.

There is what appears to be a heat sink, but the "throttle" lead is shrunk between the metal plate and active components. From what I can tell, the only thing that is being heat sinked is the reciever lead. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/eek.gif

Is this an issue? Or is this metal plate just a place to stick the label? Should I pull the shrink and fix it?

Thanks,
Dave

[SNAKERS]

Hi Patrick,

I've had a Dragon 35-Aveox 1015/2y combo on order from my local CC dealer for awhile and was wondering when they might become available.

Also, any problems running the dragon continuosly at 33-35 amps on 16 cells?

Thanks

[Sean]

I heard someone at my local field say that you make a low voltage version of your pixie-7, is this true? What is the minimum # of cells for the BEC to function?

Thanx, Sean

[Daveairway]

Hi Pat,

Is this for real?

Daveairway: Ok, you got me!! The heat sink on the Pixie is just a place to put the label. It is non-functional. The wires are used as the heat sink on the Pixie-14.

I have noticed many of the new small ESC's have no heat sink. Is this because of the surface mount devices?

Thanks,
Dave

[docphi]

Pat,

Any word on the Astroflight version of the Dragon35?

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hi guys!

Good questions -- Here is another round of answers:

jrb: No news on the sensorless controller, other than a 70 amp version will be available -- it is in the development list. A 30 amp version will be first, followed by a 70 amp and a 55 amp version. Turning off the ESC electronics CAN be dangerous even if there are pasives to prevent the FETs from turning on -- a better solution is to leave the microprocessor running, but disable the FETs in software. This can be done by an external switch or by receiver input.

MKH: You have one of the older, fixed input Pixies. All you need to do is adjust the end points on your transmitter -- the controller won't do if for you.

Daveairway: Ok, you got me!! http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif The heat sink on the Pixie is just a place to put the label. It is non-functional. The wires are used as the heat sink on the Pixie-14.

SNAKERS: We are still waiting for AVEOX to start shipping 10 series motors again. They have promised us that we will have motors by the middle of this coming week. They have not told us what motors we will get, so I'm not sure whether we will be able to fill your order or not. If you email me at patrick@castlecreations.com we can notify you when the combo is ready to ship!

Sean: The only current version of the Pixie-7 IS the low voltage version. It will power the BEC with as few as 4 cells. It will operate with as few as 3 cells, but many receivers and servos will not work with the input voltage that low.


Keep 'em coming! Go Chiefs! (yes, I'm a KC fan!)

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[Joel K. Scholz]

Phillip,
Thanks for answering some ?s. In regard to the need to disable the brake, I found a reason recently. When applying off throttle with a braking Jeti 50 on a master airscrew geared Magnetic Mayham, I suddenly found myself with no power. It seems the 11 x 7 prop had enough inertia to totally strip the gear. Disabling the brake can prevent further occurences of this.I own a pegasus 35 and have been very happy with it. I am wondering if you make a controller with bec that can handle 10 cells and 4 servos.I have a Jeti 50 that claims to be able to do this, but control problems in flight seem to indicate overload of the controller. Does disabling the BEC take care of this?

[JayD89]

Pat, I recently returned a D-35 esc and 1010/2y motor for repair ( so recently, you may not have received it yet ). Both are used in a converted Lite-Machines helicopter with a 3000 mah NimH pack. There have been several rumors circulating that there is a problem with the magnets coming loose on the 1010/2y...Is there any truth to this? And how long is the repair process on said components?

Thanks, Jay

[columbiarcdude]

I have a Pixie 14 and it works great.

[tsheehy]

Pat,

I am planning on using two of your Pixie-7 ESC's with a Robin 280 micro helicopter from MIA Designs.

I plan on using these with a Futaba 8UAFS radio. There has been some discussion on one of the micro-heli web pages about using ESC's which have fixed end points versus automatically configured ones.

Based on what I have read here, the Pixie-7 can be re-programmed to have fixed end points.. is that something that is necessary to ensure proper use with a 2 ESC + Gyro micro helicopter? Or can it be alleviated by proper start-up sequence and/or programming the Tx appropriately?

Thanks for publicly allowing people to open up these big cans of worms http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

-- Tom

[Patrick del Castillo]

Daveairway -- Yeah, it's for real. The Pixie-14 doesn't even start to get warm until you hit about 18 amps...

docphi -- Still working on the Astro pinout and modification kit... Expect to have something very soon.

Joel -- You won't have the same problem with ANY of my braking controls -- they all have a soft delayed brake to prevent damage to gearboxes. The controllers all wait 4 seconds before braking (to let the prop spin down a bit) and then they soft brake (50% braking.) If you disable the BEC on a Castle Creations controller, you will no longer be limited in servo/cell count combinations.

JayD -- There have been a statistically small number of problems with the 10 series Aveox motors throwing magnets. It seems that only a very few motors have the problem, but Aveox decided to retool the 10 series rotor to completely eliminate the problem. I commend them for attacking the problem, even when it affects only a small number of motors.

columbiarcdude: Thx! I hope you continue to enjoy your Pixie for years to come!

tsheehy: Seems some radios don't mix the same way that Mario's does -- so the tail rotor pixie-7 gets signal that it considers to be out-of-range. The Pixie-7 then resets, (correct glitching behavior.) This stops the tail rotor (incorrect behavior in that installation.) We can update a Pixie-7 for tail rotor use with software that does not reject very short pulses and does not auto calibrate free of charge for anybody who has difficulty with one of Mario's helicopters.


Sorry it took so long to get back to the discussion ... I've been busy working on new designs. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[R. Green]

Patrick,

I'm a fan. I've been using your products on all of my e-planes -- Pixie 7, 14, Sprite 25 and Griffon 40. All have performed well and to spec. Great products and great service as well (you repaired a blown Sprite -- my fault -- for your flat rate and rushed it, too).

Do all of your controllers limit the Rx voltage to 4.8 or are there some that will go to 6? JR warns that the 341 servos should not be used on 6 volt systems.

Thanks again for a great product.

[This message has been edited by R. Green (edited 10-24-2000).]

[Patrick del Castillo]

R. Green: All of the Castle Creations controllers regulate the receiver voltage to 5.0V. Should work just fine with your JR servos.

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations

[Neil Morse]

Patrick:

I recently purchased a Pegasus-35 which was recommended by New Creations for use in a Twin Star. As I'm sure you know, the TS is a 4 servo plane with twin 6 volt speed 400's. Reading the spec sheet on the Pegasus, I'm a little bit hesitant to use it for this plane. The spec sheet says "Six to eight cells with three standard micro servos." Is it OK to use it on a TS with 2 standard HS-422's and two micro HS-81's with an 8X1900 NiCad pack? Thanks.

Neil

[Greg Covey]

Hi Patrick,

I recently ordered my second Pegasus-35 after discovering that my local hobby shop was temporarily out-of-stock.

I ordered this time directly from CC in Kansas and was forced to send a check since you had no on-line ordering. Do you plan to add on-line ordering? Can you provide a list of distributors that sell your ESCs and have on-line ordering?

[new2heli]

patrick,
where are you?

[Patrick del Castillo]

Sorry I've been gone a while... Been pretty busy.


Of course you can ALWAYS call me. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

Neil: It will probably work just fine... The specs are for worst case (high torque micro servos--) but try it on the ground first. Run the motor to half throttle (BE CAREFUL!) and then move the servos similar to flight. If the motor shuts down early (like a low voltage cutoff) you know you are exceeding the BEC limit. If not, don't worry about it. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

Greg -- We are working on online ordering, it should be coming soon. You can also order by phone. (913 438-6325


Thanx guys!

[Mark Wood]

Neil:
I'm using a Griffin 40 in my E-plane running 2 HS-81s and 2 HS-60s. Throttled up 1/2 way and exercised all of the servos hard. No problems with 8 cells!

[jrb]

Patrick,

Have sent an e-mail, but got a funny delivery error message.

Jim B.

[jimbarstow]

I am going to be buying an electric sailplane that requires 4 servos (2 in the wings). Most likely, it will use a geared 480 to drive it. The need for 4 servos really limits my choices of ESC. The prevailing wisdom here is either a Jeti 350 or your Pegasus 35. The problem with the Pegasus is that people say it is only rated for 2 servos. Is this true or can I get away with 4? Also what is your philosopy with respect to BEC? Is it that when you get to this level of power you are better off with a separate batter to drive the servos?

Thanks

[Fred Bronk]

Jim, not to answer for Patrick, but the new P35 has a double BEC rated at 2 amps. I run an old one with 5 servos and 10 cells, never a hint of problems(lots of cooling and micro servos!)!

MIKE, I am finishing it my instalation of your D35 in my Aveox Hawk conversion. I am concerned with its cooling and want to know if a heatsink can be added? Calc shows 20 amps at normal flight with 16-18 cells.(yes it is under 25 volts) But I want a safety margin.

Thanks!

[This message has been edited by Fred Bronk (edited 11-20-2000).]

[jimbarstow]

A couple of additional questions:

1) What is a "double BEC"? The documentation for the Pegasus 35 at the CC site says that it can only handle 3 microservos. Fred Bronk says the "double BEC" can handle up to 2 amps. (That's a lot more than 2 servos!)
2) Is a brake a requirement when using a folding prop or can I do without it?
3) Where can I get detailed and up-to-date info on the CC ESC's?

[ArtJ]

Hi Patrick...I installed a switch between my PEG35 and receiver with a simple "Y" configuration. One leg of the "Y" contains ground and signal and is routed from the ESC to receiver channel 3 slot. The other leg contains ground and switched (+) and is routed from the ESC to the battery position of the receiver. This ensures that the receiver kills signal to the ESC as well as returning all surfaces to neutral. No problems yet!
Originally posted by Patrick del Castillo:
You don't ever want to turn off the ESC electronics. With a battery connected, that would be bad http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif
I think I understand what you want though... A way to completely disable the ESC so that there is no chance of it arming.

I think the best solution would be a switch to disable the ESC without disabling the BEC. That way, if you switched it off on launch (or if it vibrated off during flight,) at least you would still have control of the model. No power, but control.
However, the method I described above (to disable the ESC after landing) works well, and requires no switches.

Patrick

[KMKAZE]

Hey Pat,

By the way,an overdue thanks for the callback about the Pixie 14 that took a swim in my aquastar http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/biggrin.gif

Question about the pixie 14.
I know this is a really nice little ESC,and I have learned that the heatsink is nonfunctional,which also means I'm gonna do away with it and re heat shrink it.
Anyhow,just how much juice can the pixie 14 handle? I'm going to run it in my shrike...I think i'll start with a 6v motor to start with,but I'll move up to a BB 400 motor and 8 cell pack...Any worries here?

Also,a friend of mine had a speed control for his Zagi,from trick RC spontaniously combust. It was running at idle I think,and all the sudden it started smoking really bad and kinda melted down and stopped working.

What would cause this? He didnt short it,nothing hit the prop,I soldered his wires in myslef,and there were NO shorts,so what gives? Did the heatsink on there short it out?

Any possibility of this happening with your ESC's? If it was the heatsink shorting it out,im definatly removing mine just to be careful. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

thanks!

[Fred Bronk]

Jim, I can't find the article now(I looked but only found a ref) It does say the 55 is based on the 35, and 55 has a double BEC circut(independent circuts, not stacked).

I don't want to answer for Pat, or cause damage to a plane or person with my info. So pay little attention to it unless Pat says its true!

[Mike C]

Hello Pat, I just purchased a pixie-14 to run with a 10 cell 720mah NiMd battery. Upon reading the instruction sheet in the features section it said the controller would have bec up to 10 cells. Later in the same sheet it said that bec would be disabled with 10 cells or more. Would this controller work with the above mentioned battery? I am running a geared 280 motor if that matters to your decision. This is my first plane and I want to make sure I do everything correctly. Thanks

[berniep1]

Hey Patrick,

While there seem to be a lot of people that want "bigger @ better" speed controls, I would actually like to have a small brushless control for the now appearing 280 size motors...Lehner in Germany has quite a few...also the Astro 010 is a likely canditate...Schulze just came out with a "little" future..but that thing is still .5 ounces and handles 18 amps (I'm sure you're familiar with it). Given the current craze of slow fly planes, wouldn't it make sense to have a little 10 amp brushless control...for a lot of planes that would be plenty given the high efficiency of the new motors. (even the 010 has power comparible to a speed 400 7.2 volts)

[niek]

Patrick,

How is the availability of your controllers here in West Europe?
Does someone import these over here?

The current dollar <--> euro exchange isn't making things easier.

[Patrick del Castillo]

Again, Sorry so long to get a reply! I've been pretty busy...


Jim Barstow: Depends on the number of cells you are going to run. Will most likely work just fine on 8 cells (I use a Sprite-25, which has less heat sink for the BEC, on a glider with 8 cells and 4 servos.) On 10 cells, you would have to be a little careful. I rate my BEC -VERY- conservatively... There are a few microservos on the market that are quite BEC unfriendly. So I rate the BEC for the absolute worst case. Some other manufacturers rate for the average case... I think that is dangerous.
Fred is mistaken, the Griffin (40 and 55) series have a doubled BEC. The BEC on the Pegasus is good for 1.2 amps max continuous output, 2.0 amps surge. However, it is not the amperage which is the limiting factor -- it is the wattage. The BEC has to dissipate the additional heat created by dropping the incoming battery voltage to 5V. So the more batteries you use, the more heat is created. The BEC on the Pegasus uses the negative battery lead (as well as a huge pad of copper) as a heat sink. It can handle about 2.5 watts for 4 minutes before it overheats. When it overheats, it will drop output voltage, and the motor will turn off (it will be like a low-voltage cutoff.) You will not lose BEC function for more than about 1/2 second -- unlike some of the other controls on the market. Good cooling air will greatly increase the capability of the BEC.

jrb: -- Try again. My email provider sometimes acts a little funny. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

Fred Bronk: At 20-25 amps no cooling would be required EXCEPT for the BEC. If you aren't using the BEC in your heli, you should be fine with no cooling.

KMKAZE -- No problem on the callback -- That's why we're here!
Yes, the Pixie has no heatsink... The aluminum is just a flat place to put a nice label... The older Pixies can handle about 20 amps for about 1.5 minutes. The new Pixies can handle 20 amps for 10+ minutes, 25 amps for about 4 minutes (the real limitation is the shottky diode -- so if you use an external shottky on the motor the Pixie will handle even more current!)
The Trick R/C controller is manufactured (I think!) by Aveox. Any one of a number of things may have caused it to blow (bad solder joints, cracked PCB, software bug, badly timed motor, etc,) and without seeing it I can't comment. No problem with the heatsink on the Pixie-- It's far away from the power sections on the board.

MikeC: A 10 cell NIMH battery is not as hard on the BEC as a 10 cell NICD, so you will probably have no problem running 2 servos on a 10 cell NIMH pack. Again, see above about the BEC ratings on my controllers.

berniep1: Working on it. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif Details coming soon...

niek: I don't know if my controllers are available overseas... My controls are distributed here in the US by Ace Hobbies, and any good hobby shop should be able to special order them. Of course, we ship many many controllers to individuals overseas. Also, the strong dollar makes europe a difficult market.... http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

Thanks guys! Keep the questions coming!

[Steph280]

The older Pixies can handle about 20 amps for about 1.5 minutes. The new Pixies can handle 20 amps for 10+ minutes, 25 amps for about 4 minutes (the real limitation is the shottky diode -- so if you use an external shottky on the motor the Pixie will handle even more current!)


I have one of the older Pixie14. Can I run a hotter motor if a shottky diode is installed across the motor? Or is what you are refering to only for newer Pixies? What kind of shottky diode would I need for a Permax480 motor setup running 8cell Nicd? I seem to recall vaguely what shottky diodes are from my RC car days...

[jrb]

Patrick,

Thanks for the suggestion listed below.

Noticed though the RS 470 radial 10 wvdc cap is special order; assume the 16 wvdc would be OK to use.

Also once heard that Tantalum caps offer great filtering in a small package using less mF. Could the RS (272-1436) 10 mF 16 wvdc be used as effectivley?

Originally posted by Patrick del Castillo:
Try this:

Get a 470uF, 10V capacitor from Radio Shack. Take an old servo connector and wire, and connect the black wire to the (-) terminal on the capacitor, and the red wire and connect it to the (+) terminal on the capacitor. Heat shrink the capacitor so it won't short against anything... But be sure you don't short the capacitor wires together!! Then plug the servo connector with capacitor into an unused channel on the receiver.

This should fix the jjjjiiittterrrrssss.

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[Fred Bronk]

Patrick, thanks for correcting me on the BEC aplication. I would hate to cause the demize of someones plane or get someone hurt by misstating somthing! http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/redface.gif

To add to your BEC friendly servo statement. That was brought up awhile ago on the Zone and it was found that GWS brand servos draw LOTS of power at startup. I have not done a draw check of my P35 on 10 cells with 5 servos. BUT, it actually flys on just 3 servos and the surfaces are very loose and all are micro servos!

I feel better now also about using the D35! I do use a RX pack as I am running 16-18 cells(yes under 25 volts!) with some controller cooling.

[Gary B]

...my son just purchased a Twister SP, motor (Maxx Prod. ACC 1507 Cobalt, 7 #20 winds), and spd. cntrl. from New Creations - he is planning on using Trinity matched cell Sanyo car batteries - 8-2000 SCR's -
...he is counting on 4-5 minutes of mostly full throttle aerobatics and vertical - will your Griffin 55 which he purchased hold up to the abuse? - or should he go with a Tekin car speed control w/heatsink?

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hi guys!

Individual replies below:

Steph280: True, you will be able to run a bit more current when using an external shottky. I would limit it to about 18 amps static at full throttle with the older Pixie.

Fred: No problem!

GaryB: NEVER USE A CAR SPEED CONTROL IN AN AIRPLANE... You are asking for serious trouble! Most car type controllers do not have an auto-cutoff -- which means that when the power from the BEC gets too low, it does not shut down the motor... the servos stop responding, and you crash!
The Griffin-55 will easily handle the Maxx products cobalt motor. Remember, even though the Griffin-55 has no real heat sink, the on-resistance is EXTREMELY low. Heat is created by losses in the controller. I^2R (current squared, multiplied by resistance) is the formula to determine losses.
The resistance of the Griffin-55 is only .00063 ohms (YES, three zeros!) So the controller loss at 55 amps full throttle is only 1.9 watts-- just enough to make the controller slightly warm.
If he discharged the entire pack in 4 minutes, that is only a discharge rate of 30 amps - or a loss of only 1/2 watt in the Griffin. The Griffin-55 will barely notice it. http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

[mrneutron]

Hello Patrick.
I have a Pegasus and a sprite esc. I have been using a sprite in Darwin Garrison's Hotcat and have not been able to get it to fly on the recommended power setup. Others who have flown it use a 6V, 8cell 600 pack and either a Master Airscrew 5.5x4. or a grish 5x4. Darwin has stipulated that I should get at least 10-13 amp draw from the motor proped this way. However the only way I can get close to even to 10 amps is using a, 8x4. However he says that this should make a sp400 draw 15-21amps and suggests that I might have a bad FET in the esc. I don;t believe it's damaged in anyway. It has never been used anywhere near the amp limit and it has never been damaged in a crash. It doesn't overheat and seesm to run properly. Only the shrinkwrap has been replaced with silicon tape because it's kinda thin and brittle and eventually fell apart. What do you think?

[Gary B]

...i was so impressed with out bench tests of my son's Griffon 55 spd. cntrl. that i now own 2! - he built a Vortex (beautiful plane) and is going to run a 7 turn MPI Cobalt with 8-2000 SC's - running this setup in my basement, the spd. cntrl seemed to barely get warm - my question - should he still put a couple of cooling holes in the bottom of the Vortex? - his all-up weight is about 41-42 ounces - is this plane going to land pretty fast/tricky?

[new2heli]

patrick,
i just purchased the bd-5 kit from kirk at new creations. the kit is a 4 channel plane. im running an astro 05 through your pegasus 35 speed controller. im going to run a 8 cell rc2400 pack.
will your pegasus allow b.e.c. or do i have to adapt it and run a separate battery pack?
how would i go about making it non b.e.c.?
thanks

[E-Challenged]

I have been flying my 35"w/s Ziroli Aeronca with ailerons, rudder and
elevator on eight 270 mah NiMh Cells, Hitec 535 rcvr, a GD-280 and three HS-55 micro
servos. All seems to be working well for last 25 flights. Somebody on E-Flight mentioned that the Pixie 14 is limited to 2 micro servos with 8 cells or more . Am I
risking anything using the three HS-55's and 8 NiMh cells or are 8 270 NiMh cells equivalent to seven 270 mah nicads?
BTW I emailed same message/ info request as above to your website but it "looped". Resent message again, plus this one.

Thanks-Gary Gullikson

[teamdavey]

I am attempting to make an equipment selection for my next project. I have been looking at the Dragon 35/10103Y as a possible power plant but have some questions:

I understand that some software options are available. For example, can I get fixed end point with linear control for a helicopter, but with the low volts cut out active?

Secondly a hardware question. I generally run 10 cells with 3 servos (4 in a heli). I note you use two regulators to provide plenty of servo current, but I see no form of heatsink in the photos. Is there a version with heat sink or will I have to add a separate regulator with its own heat sink.

Regards,

Jim Davey

[tsheehy]

Pat,

I seem to be having trouble with my new Dragon-35 Aveox 1010/2Y setup. I just finished my eLMH conversion and made the final connections to all the radio gear.

The problem is that I can't get the motor to work! I am using a Futaba 8UAFS and a Hitec 555 (I also tried an Alpex Rx). The servos work fine, so it seems that the BEC and Rx are functional. When I try the throttle, all that happens is that the red LED on the ESC comes on.

I currently have the throttle channel reversed, as I have to do with all my other planes/helicopters. I also have the ATV set to maximum in both directions, then I tried the trim and subtrim at their lowest levels.

I have tried different battery packs, unplugged everything but the ESC from the Rx, and removed the gear to the helicopter so that the motor is free and clear to spin on its own.

For some reason the ESC is not arming, or isn't functioning properly. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

-- Tom

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hi Guys!

Been really busy making new controllers --- New cool stuff now available (Pixie-7 programmable, and the new Dragon-55!) Other even cooler stuff coming soon!

Gary B. - My Vortex has 16 cells (1250SCRs) and an Astro 15 FAI. It is fast landing, but not tricky. Harder to launch 'cause it is so heavy with all those batteries... Speed control will run COOLER in flight, becuase the prop unloads and current goes down.

new2heli: The Pegasus has a BEC, and will work fine in that application. To disable the BEC, remove the red wire from the receiver plug.

E-Challenged: You should be fine with that setup.

teamdavey: 10 cells and 3 servos is pushing the Dragon, as it does not have a large amount of heat sink available for the BEC.
You can get a helicopter version with low voltage cutoff enabled. Just mention it when ordering.

tsheehy: Not sure, but is possible that the Dragon is being flooded with RF noise. Are you attempting to run the Dragon indoors with the TX antenna extended? If so, you might want to try collapsing the antenna... indoor you can get lots of reflections, etc, that would prevent the Dragon from arming. If all else fails, give us a call and we'll send you out a new Dragon.


Keep 'em coming!

Patrick

[tsheehy]

Pat,

Thanks for the fast response.

I have been using the Tx with a collapsed antenna, I will try going outdoors later on today.

Could I send you my motor and ESC for you to take a look at, rather than just sending me a new ESC? That way I can eliminate user error from the equation.

Is it ok to call on the weekends?

Thanks for the help!

-- Tom

[Patrick del Castillo]

tsheehy: Of course you can call on weekends. We may or may not be in (depending on the kids mostly!)

You can send in the motor/controller if you would prefer. I'll take a look and if not operating correctly, I'll replace the controller/motor as required.

Thanx!

Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[Vincent Lee]

Patrick, I am an e-flyer in Seoul, Korea who has recently purchased your Dragon 35 and 1015/2Y package for my E-Streak. I really like the light weight of your controller/motor package, but unfortunately mine produced serious radio interference. I found it is not a Rx problem as I had no such problem with other motor/controller package tested with the same model. I had to return my package for your inspection, and perhaps you have already received it. I was trying to reach you by e-mail but it was bounced to me, so I am using this site. I would appreciate if you could send me the new (or repaired) system ASAP. I used my Korean name in the order, but you should recognize me easily.

Vincent

[Steven D]

What are the specs and price on the dragon 55? Nothing on your web site about it...

Steven

[John Zook]

Hi Pat!
I have a Sprite 25 and 3 Pegasus 35....they all work flawlessly. I read your instructions about disarming the esc....thanks for including the info as I have begun to remove arming switches from my planes. You make the best! http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/cool.gif
I will be purchasing more of your escs as I have a number of planes, including an Astro Viking built from plans . http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif
Until then, seeya and keep 'em flying!

[Patrick del Castillo]

Hi guys!

Vincent -- Got your Dragon this morning, will get it back to you ASAP. Could possibly be a bad capacitor or MOSFET, will know more later today. Also, we've been having some problems with our email server... If it bounces try again!

Steven D - Yeah, we need to update the web site.... http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

The Dragon-55 handles 55 amps continuous, 70+ amps/20 seconds. It is a sensored, BEC ESC, designed specifically for Aveox motors (but it can be used with other sensored motors as well.) up to 16 cells input, can be modified (by request) to handle 20 cells. On resistance is .002 ohms. Other specs are similar to the Dragon-35.


John, Great to hear that you love our products!


Thanx guys! And keep the questions coming!

[Wayner]

Hello Patrick...
I've been using pixie 7 and 14's in my old timer planes for quite a while now and have never had a single problem with them. All still working great. Thanks for building such a good product! I originally started using them because of the low LVC. I'm usually landing before it cuts in, so I get max fly time. Thanks again...

[Dereck]

Hi Patrick

As there is growing interest in sports models out of the Seven Cell Trap (tm) http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/wink.gif - how's about a controller with 12 or 14 cell capability and a BEC that can handle four or maybe even five servos.

IOW - A decent powered sports model, with two wing servos plus rudder/ele and around Astro 035G - 15G, or equivalent, running 10 - 14 cells, maybe 35A max, motor on continuously with plenty of throttle variation.

While I won't claim to know how - I do know that it can be done (have two examples in my fleet http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif). This size of model has plenty of space - no need for a 'bump on the wire' ESC and the odd extra weight on the ESC has to be much less than a RX pack plus switch harness.

You've been most places first - why stop?

Regards

Dereck

[Tom Smith]

I purchased another of your Pixie 14s at NEAT and use your arming /disarming methods at startup and shut down and it works just great. Don't have to worry about swamping the system and getting hit with those 2 bladed APC razors on the front of the plane. My vote is for no switches. Your ideas work great. Tom

[MKH]

Patrick, will you be selling at the Toledo show in April? If so, will you have Aveox/Dragon combos like last year? Thanks. MKH

[jsc]

Patrick,
I was wondering if you are going to come out with a controller that can handle like 14-32 cells or larger, and I am looking forward to your Dragon 55, I have a Dragon 35 but it is still in the package. How do you modify the Dragon 55 for more cells? I am just curious. I have had a battle with other brushless controllers and would like to see some of yours in the upper cell count range. Thanks and keep charging toward supreme products.
Jeff

[Patrick del Castillo]

Wayner: Thanx for the kind words! Glad you like your Pixies!

Dereck: Been working on a DC-DC converting BEC to use as an add-on to our existing line of ESCs. Should be available in the summer. It will handle up to a 6 servo load with up to 24 cells. It won't be REAL small, but it won't be real big either -- it should be about the size of a Sprite-25. More posted when we have more details.....

Tom -- Funny how divided people are on this issue. We are planning on making an arming switch harness available as an add-on later this year.

JSC -- The regular D-35 and D-55 are limited by the input capacitor which is rated at 25V. We rate that to a conservative 16 cells. With a different input capacitor (a larger 35V capacitor) the limit is then the input limit of the controller, which is 30V. With the 35V capacitor, we have had quite a few people successfully run with up to 20 cells.

MKH -- We will be at Toledo this year! We will also have Dragon-35 and Dragon-55 controllers and combos available at show prices... But right now the Ezone special combo price (15% off retail) is probably going to be less expensive than the Toledo show price... See our ad in the Ezone Advertiser's Showcase for more details... http://www.ezonemag.com/articles/2001/feb/showcase/showcase.htm


Patrick del Castillo
Castle Creations
www.castlecreations.com (http://www.castlecreations.com)

[This message has been edited by Patrick del Castillo (edited 03-10-2001).]

[tsheehy]

Pat,

Any update on the Dragon 35 / Aveox 10102Y combo I sent back a few weeks ago?

Anxiously waiting its return http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/smile.gif

Thanks,

-- Tom

[Gene]

Great ESC's. I have two Pegasus 35's and they're much more efficient than those Jeti's.