RC10LSS needs rear traction. Anyone know where to get it?

[Bubba]

I just finished putting my ancient (as in bought in 92) RC10LSS back
together and it seems I have the same problem as before: Massive,
uncontrollable oversteer.I know it's geared way too low right now (16t
pinion IIRC), but I want to keep it below mach I while messing around
in the driveway/street. Right now if I pull the trigger past about 20%
throttle the wheels spin, it takes off, and within 5 feet it's doing
donuts. At full throttle the car doesn't even move, it just lights up
the rear and spins. In other words, classic pan car oversteer. Here's
the setup:

AE RC10LSS
Original front suspension, not the new setup
2 deg. caster
Trinity Monster Horsepower Pro
16t pinion, 81t spur (going off very old memory on that one)
6 generic 3000 mAH NiMh cell balanced saddle pack
Black shock spring at minimum preload
#3 ride height cams set at full up
No body (Have an HPI Diablo shell waiting for paint)

First I'm going to put the big pinion on there and see what happens.
If that doesn't work I'll cut a coil off the shock spring and maybe
pull apart the shock and drill the piston a bit to soften it up. Maybe
a bit more toe would help? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all
ears... or is that "all eyes" on the internet? ;)

[James Rolfe \(Agg - OCAU\)]

I have two ancient-ish RC10's, not sure what your LSS is but mine are the
original 2WD electric buggy thing (not B2/B3). Anyway, when I first got one
of them working it behaved similarly to how you describe. I lengthened the
gearing by putting a bigger cog on the motor spindle and loosened off the
external slipper clutch a little. You could also add a little slip into the
system inside the transmission - where one of the rear wheel driveshafts
goes in, there's a little allan socket.. loosen that off a little, it'll
let the diff inside the transmission slip more.

If these are nothing like your cars then sorry. :) I spent the last couple
of days pulling apart and fixing the transmissions etc, so thought I'd offer
my experience. The second one I just got working and does the same thing,
so I'll be lengthening the gearing on that one soon enough..

Cheers
James

"Bubba" <bubba@beer.com> wrote in message
news:3e267db3.179678695@news.houston.sbcglobal.net ...
> I just finished putting my ancient (as in bought in 92) RC10LSS back
> together and it seems I have the same problem as before: Massive,
> uncontrollable oversteer.I know it's geared way too low right now (16t
> pinion IIRC), but I want to keep it below mach I while messing around
> in the driveway/street. Right now if I pull the trigger past about 20%
> throttle the wheels spin, it takes off, and within 5 feet it's doing
> donuts. At full throttle the car doesn't even move, it just lights up
> the rear and spins. In other words, classic pan car oversteer. Here's
> the setup:
>
> AE RC10LSS
> Original front suspension, not the new setup
> 2 deg. caster
> Trinity Monster Horsepower Pro
> 16t pinion, 81t spur (going off very old memory on that one)
> 6 generic 3000 mAH NiMh cell balanced saddle pack
> Black shock spring at minimum preload
> #3 ride height cams set at full up
> No body (Have an HPI Diablo shell waiting for paint)
>
> First I'm going to put the big pinion on there and see what happens.
> If that doesn't work I'll cut a coil off the shock spring and maybe
> pull apart the shock and drill the piston a bit to soften it up. Maybe
> a bit more toe would help? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all
> ears... or is that "all eyes" on the internet? ;)
>

[MikeF]

Take a leaf blower and clean off the street.
Makes a big difference.
Also, get softer rear tires. They wont last long, but hey...
Go with a rebuildable stock motor. On a pan car with 3000 cells, you'll run
for about a week on one charge....
Move some weight to the back. Increase front toe and caster if you can.
A body with a BIG ASSED wing, preferably a GTP type pan car body will help
noticeably too.
Experiment with tightening up the ball diff a little. Sometimes it helps,
sometimes it makes it worse.




James Rolfe (Agg - OCAU) <agg@overclockers.com.au> wrote in message
news:3e26984b$0$215$5a62ac22@freenews.iinet.net.au ...
> I have two ancient-ish RC10's, not sure what your LSS is but mine are the
> original 2WD electric buggy thing (not B2/B3). Anyway, when I first got
one
> of them working it behaved similarly to how you describe. I lengthened
the
> gearing by putting a bigger cog on the motor spindle and loosened off the
> external slipper clutch a little. You could also add a little slip into
the
> system inside the transmission - where one of the rear wheel driveshafts
> goes in, there's a little allan socket.. loosen that off a little, it'll
> let the diff inside the transmission slip more.
>
> If these are nothing like your cars then sorry. :) I spent the last
couple
> of days pulling apart and fixing the transmissions etc, so thought I'd
offer
> my experience. The second one I just got working and does the same thing,
> so I'll be lengthening the gearing on that one soon enough..
>
> Cheers
> James
>
> "Bubba" <bubba@beer.com> wrote in message
> news:3e267db3.179678695@news.houston.sbcglobal.net ...
> > I just finished putting my ancient (as in bought in 92) RC10LSS back
> > together and it seems I have the same problem as before: Massive,
> > uncontrollable oversteer.I know it's geared way too low right now (16t
> > pinion IIRC), but I want to keep it below mach I while messing around
> > in the driveway/street. Right now if I pull the trigger past about 20%
> > throttle the wheels spin, it takes off, and within 5 feet it's doing
> > donuts. At full throttle the car doesn't even move, it just lights up
> > the rear and spins. In other words, classic pan car oversteer. Here's
> > the setup:
> >
> > AE RC10LSS
> > Original front suspension, not the new setup
> > 2 deg. caster
> > Trinity Monster Horsepower Pro
> > 16t pinion, 81t spur (going off very old memory on that one)
> > 6 generic 3000 mAH NiMh cell balanced saddle pack
> > Black shock spring at minimum preload
> > #3 ride height cams set at full up
> > No body (Have an HPI Diablo shell waiting for paint)
> >
> > First I'm going to put the big pinion on there and see what happens.
> > If that doesn't work I'll cut a coil off the shock spring and maybe
> > pull apart the shock and drill the piston a bit to soften it up. Maybe
> > a bit more toe would help? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all
> > ears... or is that "all eyes" on the internet? ;)
> >
>
>

[Paul - xxx]

Bubba, in news:3e267db3.179678695@news.houston.sbcglobal.net scribbled ;

> I just finished putting my ancient (as in bought in 92) RC10LSS back
> together and it seems I have the same problem as before: Massive,
> uncontrollable oversteer.I know it's geared way too low right now (16t
> pinion IIRC), but I want to keep it below mach I while messing around
> in the driveway/street. Right now if I pull the trigger past about 20%
> throttle the wheels spin, it takes off, and within 5 feet it's doing
> donuts. At full throttle the car doesn't even move, it just lights up
> the rear and spins. In other words, classic pan car oversteer. Here's
> the setup:
>
> AE RC10LSS
> Original front suspension, not the new setup
> 2 deg. caster
> Trinity Monster Horsepower Pro
> 16t pinion, 81t spur (going off very old memory on that one)
> 6 generic 3000 mAH NiMh cell balanced saddle pack
> Black shock spring at minimum preload
> #3 ride height cams set at full up
> No body (Have an HPI Diablo shell waiting for paint)
>
> First I'm going to put the big pinion on there and see what happens.
> If that doesn't work I'll cut a coil off the shock spring and maybe
> pull apart the shock and drill the piston a bit to soften it up. Maybe
> a bit more toe would help? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all
> ears... or is that "all eyes" on the internet? ;)

Softer tyres on the rear, harder on the front, more toe-in on the rear (if
available) make sure the front wheels spin absolutely freely, any binding
will only make the situation worse. Crap Stock motor (I haven't the first
clue what a "Trinity Monster Horsepower Pro" is but it sounds a tad powerful
for street running on a pan car. Much higher gearing, and less throttle.
Also the street simply won't have the grip for decent pan car running ..
spray some coke cola about, thinly, half an hour before you run .. ;)

Maybe your transmitter allows different settuings for different cars, in
which case set the throttle towards soft rather than punchy power delivery.
Set the throttle rate to minimal .. and also the steering rate may need
tweaking down .. ;)

--
....................................Paul-xxx
Seti 1322 wu in 9207 hours

[chuck_steak@nospam.com]

In article <MB2cnX-cROxKO7ujXTWcpw@comcast.com>,
"MikeF" <vanning@comcast.net> wrote:
>Take a leaf blower and clean off the street.
>Makes a big difference.

Big difference is putting it mildly...
That almost invisible layer of street dust, will make any good car
appear to be horrible.

We run asphalt oval in the summer, and the difference is incredible,
between before and after the 'leaf blower'....
To those big foam tires, those tiny grains of sand are like ballbearings.

If you are trying to make tight turns, you'll certainly experience oversteer.
If you have an oval set up, make sure you dial out most of the steering.
That is usually a culprit as well.
Your fronts just turn way too much,
and it makes you think that the car sucks....



Dan
----------------------------------------------
Never kick a cow flap on a hot day........

[Jonny Hodgson]

Bubba wrote:

> First I'm going to put the big pinion on there and see what happens.
> If that doesn't work I'll cut a coil off the shock spring and maybe
> pull apart the shock and drill the piston a bit to soften it up. Maybe
> a bit more toe would help? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all
> ears... or is that "all eyes" on the internet? ;)

If you have a variable current limit on your ESC, try turning that
down - that way you don't have to go to sky-high gearing. Also,
add some extra shims to the top of the kingpins (assuming it's like
my 10L3T) so that you have preload on the front springs - that makes
quite a big difference. I prefer to run without preload, but it's
only driveable that way once the grip is up.

Ditto to everyone who's mentioned the dust - blow it, wash it, sugar
water it or anything to get the surface clean! Also *do* run a body,
and consider getting some 'damp' rear tyres (I think Jaco suggest
Aqua for damp or dust).

Good luck!
Jonny

[Bubba]

On Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:15:02 +1100, "James Rolfe \(Agg - OCAU\)"
<agg@overclockers.com.au> wrote:

>I have two ancient-ish RC10's, not sure what your LSS is but mine are the
>original 2WD electric buggy thing (not B2/B3).

10Ls are on-road pan cars. Flat chassis, solid rear axle, no
transmission to speak of, just a pinion on the motor and a spur on a
carbon axle. The 10LSS is the narrow version of the 10L.

[Mat W.]

if you're running a pan SS style body... put a nice big wing on it. We use
to run asphalt oval. You HAD to have a wing to keep the back end from
coming around at such high speeds on the asphalt.


"Jonny Hodgson" <jp_hodgson@eRnEgMiOnVeEer.com> wrote in message
news:64GV9.4$H25.13869@newsfep2-win.server.ntli.net...
> Bubba wrote:
>
> > First I'm going to put the big pinion on there and see what happens.
> > If that doesn't work I'll cut a coil off the shock spring and maybe
> > pull apart the shock and drill the piston a bit to soften it up. Maybe
> > a bit more toe would help? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all
> > ears... or is that "all eyes" on the internet? ;)
>
> If you have a variable current limit on your ESC, try turning that
> down - that way you don't have to go to sky-high gearing. Also,
> add some extra shims to the top of the kingpins (assuming it's like
> my 10L3T) so that you have preload on the front springs - that makes
> quite a big difference. I prefer to run without preload, but it's
> only driveable that way once the grip is up.
>
> Ditto to everyone who's mentioned the dust - blow it, wash it, sugar
> water it or anything to get the surface clean! Also *do* run a body,
> and consider getting some 'damp' rear tyres (I think Jaco suggest
> Aqua for damp or dust).
>
> Good luck!
> Jonny
>
>

[Bubba]

On Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:32:56 -0000, "Jonny Hodgson"
<jp_hodgson@eRnEgMiOnVeEer.com> wrote:

>If you have a variable current limit on your ESC, try turning that
>down - that way you don't have to go to sky-high gearing.

Don't have it, unfortunately. It's a 10 year old Futaba MC112B. Still
works perfectly, though :)

> Also,
>add some extra shims to the top of the kingpins (assuming it's like
>my 10L3T) so that you have preload on the front springs - that makes
>quite a big difference. I prefer to run without preload, but it's
>only driveable that way once the grip is up.

This one has the old front end without the upper control arm, but I
can likely still cram a shim in there. I'll give that a shot when I
get around to messing with this car again. I sort of gave up on it for
the time being and picked up a Micro RS4. Should actually be more fun
since I can lay out a track with duct tape and PVC in my driveway.

>Ditto to everyone who's mentioned the dust - blow it, wash it, sugar
>water it or anything to get the surface clean! Also *do* run a body,
>and consider getting some 'damp' rear tyres (I think Jaco suggest
>Aqua for damp or dust).

What I really want to do is put modern rubber touring tires on it, but
I can't find suitable wheels. I had my hands on a set of ProLine
wheels for 1.65" rubber tires, but I can't find any tires anywhere.
However, I have another plan. I have a lathe in the garage so I'm
going to make some rings with an ID to match the stock wheels and an
OD to suit modern tires, epoxy the rings to the wheels, and mount some
treaded tires. Should help greatly. If that doesn't do it I'll build a
new front end with upper and lower control arms like every other
touring car out there. Then I'll have the speed of a pan car with most
of the traction of a touring car. Not fun for slinging around in the
driveway, but great fun in a big, flat parking lot. I really need to
strap my GPS in there and see what the top speed really is one of
these days.

Now I'm off to put together a tiny Viper :) Really wish someone would
make a 1:18 Diablo VT or Murcielago body...

[Bubba]

On Sat, 18 Jan 2003 00:01:50 GMT, "Mat W." <mat1@blackhorizon.org>
wrote:

>if you're running a pan SS style body... put a nice big wing on it. We use
>to run asphalt oval. You HAD to have a wing to keep the back end from
>coming around at such high speeds on the asphalt.

Right now it's not even getting to a high enough speed for a wing to
start working. It's spinning pretty much as soon as it starts moving.
I'm thinking about seeing how many consecutive donuts I can do since I
need new tires anyway.

Oh yeah, found a neat but completely useless trick. I dumped an old
box of baking soda on the driveway, pulled into it, and nailed the
throttle. Car didn't move, but it did an amazing impersonation of a
top fuel dragster. I'll have to try and take a picture of it sometime.
Was really cool looking but, like I said, has no constructive purpose
at all.

[Mat W.]

You could try to loosen the the diff so it slips when you punch the
throttle. Problem w/ the low gearing is the high torque it generates.

"Bubba" <bubba@beer.com> wrote in message
news:3e28f2bf.340739900@news.houston.sbcglobal.net ...
> On Thu, 16 Jan 2003 20:32:56 -0000, "Jonny Hodgson"
> <jp_hodgson@eRnEgMiOnVeEer.com> wrote:
>
> >If you have a variable current limit on your ESC, try turning that
> >down - that way you don't have to go to sky-high gearing.
>
> Don't have it, unfortunately. It's a 10 year old Futaba MC112B. Still
> works perfectly, though :)
>
> > Also,
> >add some extra shims to the top of the kingpins (assuming it's like
> >my 10L3T) so that you have preload on the front springs - that makes
> >quite a big difference. I prefer to run without preload, but it's
> >only driveable that way once the grip is up.
>
> This one has the old front end without the upper control arm, but I
> can likely still cram a shim in there. I'll give that a shot when I
> get around to messing with this car again. I sort of gave up on it for
> the time being and picked up a Micro RS4. Should actually be more fun
> since I can lay out a track with duct tape and PVC in my driveway.
>
> >Ditto to everyone who's mentioned the dust - blow it, wash it, sugar
> >water it or anything to get the surface clean! Also *do* run a body,
> >and consider getting some 'damp' rear tyres (I think Jaco suggest
> >Aqua for damp or dust).
>
> What I really want to do is put modern rubber touring tires on it, but
> I can't find suitable wheels. I had my hands on a set of ProLine
> wheels for 1.65" rubber tires, but I can't find any tires anywhere.
> However, I have another plan. I have a lathe in the garage so I'm
> going to make some rings with an ID to match the stock wheels and an
> OD to suit modern tires, epoxy the rings to the wheels, and mount some
> treaded tires. Should help greatly. If that doesn't do it I'll build a
> new front end with upper and lower control arms like every other
> touring car out there. Then I'll have the speed of a pan car with most
> of the traction of a touring car. Not fun for slinging around in the
> driveway, but great fun in a big, flat parking lot. I really need to
> strap my GPS in there and see what the top speed really is one of
> these days.
>
> Now I'm off to put together a tiny Viper :) Really wish someone would
> make a 1:18 Diablo VT or Murcielago body...
>

[EBates]

Bubba, I have some Speed Hawgs that might work for your car. I had a lot of RC inventory left to a friend of mine when her husband died and I'm helping her sell it.

There are some of the above mentioned Speed Hawgs with the foam inserts and I can also sell some with the rims that fit them. They are on ebay now, or I can sell a different set(s) to you through PayPal. This is my first post, so I hope it's allowed to do that on the forum. If I'm out of line, please let me know. I would sell the tires only for $3.50 plus shipping of $3.50. Sets with rims would be $5.00 plus shipping of $3.50. You can contact me at leaybates@msn.com if you are interested.