Re: charging alkalines?

[Tempestnightmare]

Run them til they are DEAD...then use the 100 mah charger...if you do not
run them down, they will take a "set" and will not last as long..
Jon

"Scott Harless" <scotth@mw.net> wrote in message
news:3e25ad42.64229374@news.mw.net...
> I have some AA rechargeable alkalines but don't
> have access to a "recommended" charger. Does
> anyone know the proper way to charge these batts.?
> I was going to use 500mAh and monitor the temp &
> voltage, but I don't want to ruin them (ie: the
> recommended charger uses 100mAh or something)...
> Any help appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Scott (e-mail is valid)

[Justin Mahn]

On Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:42:09 +0000, Tempestnightmare wrote:

> Run them til they are DEAD...then use the 100 mah charger...if you do not
> run them down, they will take a "set" and will not last as long..
> Jon
>
> "Scott Harless" <scotth@mw.net> wrote in message
> news:3e25ad42.64229374@news.mw.net...
>> I have some AA rechargeable alkalines but don't
>> have access to a "recommended" charger. Does
>> anyone know the proper way to charge these batts.?
>> I was going to use 500mAh and monitor the temp &
>> voltage, but I don't want to ruin them (ie: the
>> recommended charger uses 100mAh or something)...
>> Any help appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Scott (e-mail is valid)

(rant)
Funny. Running them 'till they are dead is exactly what the Rayovac
rechargeable alkalines recommend you DON'T do. I _do_ have the recomended
charger, and Rayovac insists I should recharge them as often as possible.
I have batteries that are years old.

If you can't spend $20 on the Rayovac or similar 3-in-1 charger (Alk,
NiCd, NiMH), then I suggest using a very low amp charger and a voltmeter.
Take the voltage every 20 mins and charge the battery until the battery gets
warm or the voltage makes a drastic change in direction. For NiCd's the
voltage goes down at full charge. For NiMH's the voltage peaks and stays
still untill the battery is blown up. I'm betting the Alks will do the
same thing. If you use a low amp charger, you will have more time to find
the voltage pattern before your sacrificial pack/cell is damaged.

Stick with the recommended charge amperage. Alkalines aren't meant for
high amp draw OR fast charging.

Personally I use the Rayovac NiMHs whenever I can for reciever packs.
They're compatible with my NiMH peak charger, and last MUCH longer in my
T-Maxx and RC10GT. The alks are fine for low end Transmitters, though.

$20 (I love that price point) will get you a pack of 8 NiMH's at 1600 mAh,
which isn't too bad. You can charge one pack of 4 while using the
other. You will NOT run them dry over the course of a racing day.
Another $20 will get you the recommended charger, or use your NiMH race
battery charger at 1 amp.

The only drawback is that 4xAA NiMH will put out 4.8 volts instead of 6.0
volts that some digital servos require. Just stick with the servos that
post 4.8 volt AND 6.0 volt ratings, and you won't run into undervoltage
problems. The highter amp draw of NiMH's will more than make up for the
higher voltage of alks. If you're worried about getting the extra torque
and speed from 6.0 volts, then you'll have to go with the high-dollar
custom receiver packs anyway.

(/rant)

[Bubba]

On Thu, 16 Jan 2003 04:21:52 -0600, "Justin Mahn"
<gabrill@localhost.localdomain> wrote:

>The only drawback is that 4xAA NiMH will put out 4.8 volts instead of 6.0
>volts that some digital servos require. Just stick with the servos that
>post 4.8 volt AND 6.0 volt ratings, and you won't run into undervoltage
>problems. The highter amp draw of NiMH's will more than make up for the
>higher voltage of alks. If you're worried about getting the extra torque
>and speed from 6.0 volts, then you'll have to go with the high-dollar
>custom receiver packs anyway.

Just learn to build 5 cell receiver packs. TONS more reliable than any
battery box I've ever seen in an RC anything and you get more power
and speed from servos even if they don't specifically require 6 volts.
I've never had to bother with it since I've always stuck with electric
cars, but I'm starting to lose the fight against the urge to spend way
too much on a Nitro RS4 of some kind ;)

[Tempestnightmare]

Congrats on your rayovacs!! most NiCad's such as sony, everready, etc...(and
I have used alot, not just in RC's) will take a set if you do not completly
discharge them...
I also have the PROPER charger, for my NiCad's, NiMH...i have set Nicads
already were they will not last an hour...NiMH is another story...you do not
have to, or should not completly discharge them...bring them down to about
1.2 volts (for a pak) then recharge...
Jon

"Justin Mahn" <gabrill@localhost.localdomain> wrote in message
news:pan.2003.01.16.10.21.51.678977@localhost.loca ldomain...
> On Wed, 15 Jan 2003 22:42:09 +0000, Tempestnightmare wrote:
>
> > Run them til they are DEAD...then use the 100 mah charger...if you do
not
> > run them down, they will take a "set" and will not last as long..
> > Jon
> >
> > "Scott Harless" <scotth@mw.net> wrote in message
> > news:3e25ad42.64229374@news.mw.net...
> >> I have some AA rechargeable alkalines but don't
> >> have access to a "recommended" charger. Does
> >> anyone know the proper way to charge these batts.?
> >> I was going to use 500mAh and monitor the temp &
> >> voltage, but I don't want to ruin them (ie: the
> >> recommended charger uses 100mAh or something)...
> >> Any help appreciated.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Scott (e-mail is valid)
>
> (rant)
> Funny. Running them 'till they are dead is exactly what the Rayovac
> rechargeable alkalines recommend you DON'T do. I _do_ have the recomended
> charger, and Rayovac insists I should recharge them as often as possible.
> I have batteries that are years old.
>
> If you can't spend $20 on the Rayovac or similar 3-in-1 charger (Alk,
> NiCd, NiMH), then I suggest using a very low amp charger and a voltmeter.
> Take the voltage every 20 mins and charge the battery until the battery
gets
> warm or the voltage makes a drastic change in direction. For NiCd's the
> voltage goes down at full charge. For NiMH's the voltage peaks and stays
> still untill the battery is blown up. I'm betting the Alks will do the
> same thing. If you use a low amp charger, you will have more time to find
> the voltage pattern before your sacrificial pack/cell is damaged.
>
> Stick with the recommended charge amperage. Alkalines aren't meant for
> high amp draw OR fast charging.
>
> Personally I use the Rayovac NiMHs whenever I can for reciever packs.
> They're compatible with my NiMH peak charger, and last MUCH longer in my
> T-Maxx and RC10GT. The alks are fine for low end Transmitters, though.
>
> $20 (I love that price point) will get you a pack of 8 NiMH's at 1600 mAh,
> which isn't too bad. You can charge one pack of 4 while using the
> other. You will NOT run them dry over the course of a racing day.
> Another $20 will get you the recommended charger, or use your NiMH race
> battery charger at 1 amp.
>
> The only drawback is that 4xAA NiMH will put out 4.8 volts instead of 6.0
> volts that some digital servos require. Just stick with the servos that
> post 4.8 volt AND 6.0 volt ratings, and you won't run into undervoltage
> problems. The highter amp draw of NiMH's will more than make up for the
> higher voltage of alks. If you're worried about getting the extra torque
> and speed from 6.0 volts, then you'll have to go with the high-dollar
> custom receiver packs anyway.
>
> (/rant)