FineWorx Miles 2M - is it coming to North America?

[JFarlette]

Anyone have any info more info on the Miles 2M other than what is in Jojo's site. It looks pretty sweet. Is it going to be available in North America?

http://www.fineworx.net/

http://www.workflow.as/jogrini/diary/1153istanbul/miles_mavi.jpg

[Mark Miller]

Yes, It will be coming to America. They are still in the Prototype stage having built 5 so far and making changes needed. Larry Jolly is writing the Engilsh instructions. I spoke to Phillip Kolb about importing some to add to my kit line up and I think he has had discussions with Barry Kennedy also. He figures it will be ready around June.

Mark Miller
Isthmus Models

[kzimmerm]

I Like IT! :D

[Larry Jolly]

Yes it will be coming to the US. Yes it is a great little built up bird. I am not sure Who will be handeling it. When I spoke to Philip about he indicated June, and was looking for about 150.00 Euros for the kit. LJ

[FrogChief]

I likey... :D

[kzimmerm]

Yes it will be coming to the US. Yes it is a great little built up bird. I am not sure Who will be handeling it. When I spoke to Philip about he indicated June, and was looking for about 150.00 Euros for the kit. LJ


If I did this right the at the current exchange rate 150 Euros = $295.5 USD

That smarts! :eek:

[Larry Jolly]

I think it is closer to $250.00 but it is a really swell little 2 meter built up. LJ

[FrogChief]

She's pretty.

[Soar_dude]

Larry
The fuse looks a little delicate if its from balsa?

Soar Dude

[FrogChief]

Hey...

Looking at the photos it appears that the design has a slight amount of anhedral in the center section. Or are my eyes playing a trick on me?

Either way, I really like the looks of this plane. Very sexy shape. :)

[rdwoebke]

Neat. It looks like an all balsa Allegro Lite.

Ryan

[quigley257]

Beautiful woody!! Very nice shape. Fuselage looks like a good candidate for carbon/kevlar tow reinforcement covered with fiberglass and tinted WBPU.

--quigley :D

[Larry Jolly]

Nice little airplane I have a fair amount of time on it, getting it out on hand Launches. The center section is flat so looks like anhedrahl. Fuselage is Balsa with plywood doubler. LJ

[Wing-span]

Is there any cardon in the spar?

[jihlein]

Airfoil section?

John Ihlein
Albuquerque, NM

[Soar_dude]

I love the fuse. Its given me and idea for my scratch my scratch build project coming up.

Soar Dude

[WimH]

Airfoil section?

Sections! PK - xxxx (PK being Philip Kolb)

[Larry Jolly]

Good morning Guys,
I just got off the phone with Philip, he sends his best and thanks all of you interested in the Miles. Some corrections are in order, Philip is hoping that he can sell the Miles for about 100 Euros. Any American dealer would have to consider shipping, and associated brokerage fees. This certainly makes the price more palatable. He also described his airfoils as an 8.7% flat bottom with approximately 2.25% camber at the root adjusted for Zero twisting angle at the tip, with further considerations consistent with structural demands of a rib and spar wing. Since this is a built up you get to add your on creativity, with the application of the sanding block when doing the final shaping :-) My little Miles is coming along nicely and I hope to have a report on my Miles nicknamed "Turkish Delight" for you soon. Larry

[Brian Agnew]

Good morning Guys,
I just got off the phone with Philip, he sends his best and thanks all of you interested in the Miles. Some corrections are in order, Philip is hoping that he can sell the Miles for about 100 Euros. Any American dealer would have to consider shipping, and associated brokerage fees. This certainly makes the price more palatable. He also described his airfoils as an 8.7% flat bottom with approximately 2.25% camber at the root adjusted for Zero twisting angle at the tip, with further considerations consistent with structural demands of a rib and spar wing. Since this is a built up you get to add your on creativity, with the application of the sanding block when doing the final shaping :-) My little Miles is coming along nicely and I hope to have a report on my Miles nicknamed "Turkish Delight" for you soon. Larry

Larry sure knows a good thing when he sees one.

For Larry to take the time to build, fly, and share this new kit/design speaks volumes. And we're looking at a built up 2M of all things.

Thanks Larry!

[Larry Jolly]

Thanks Brian,
The Miles is definitely yours and my type model. I hand launched Murat's orange Miles around on my first practice day, at Saray Turkey. It was about 10:00 am and the very first Thermal cycles were starting to drift through. I can remember when Philip threw it for me the first time, and I asked him if it were possible for him to place it in any worse sink. The next time I threw and there was a barely perceptible climb on the front side of the circle. I managed to just barely get away, very satisfying, just like the old days. I have to let you know that there were discussions about an electric fuselage option, and I tried to get Philip to commit to a Mile and a Half size, that I think would fly very much like an updated Kincade Scooter. I like the airfoil Philip came up with so much I am thinking of an Icarus 2007........ Nostalgia, Oh Man, am I old.... LJ

[OVSS Boss]

Barry Kennedy from what I know is going to be bringing this in country, he said that at the Toledo show. It is a really sweet looking ship, and you know it will perform.

Marc

[georgeg]

For what its worth, I see on Skip Miller's web site that he is taking preorders for this ship. No price listed.

[Larry Jolly]

I spoke to Philip yesterday, I don't think the entire FineWorx distribution system has been finalized. I think that several people will sell these models instead of one exclusive Distributor. LJ

[gliding Oz]

Skip,
Maybe it would be best to wait till you have them instock before taking orders??

[becsta]

hmm... I so wanna get one of these imported into Australia. If they fly as well as Larry suggests, maybe they're the Blejzyk First 2M killers!

- bec

[SmokinJoe101]

I spoke to Philip yesterday, I don't think the entire FineWorx distribution system has been finalized. I think that several people will sell these models instead of one exclusive Distributor. LJ


I'm going to wait for the ARF version :eek:


sj

[gliding Oz]

Philip now has updated there site with a very cool video and some smoothing Jazz.
Check it out
http://www.fineworx.net/

[JFarlette]

I can see that some people are busy building this kit. Any North American distributors yet?

http://www.hobbyrc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30543

http://www.pistbasi.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=350

[StevenatorLTFO]

I emailed Skip Miller a while back, he is supposed to be getting some, but no ETA. Mark Miller (Isthmusmodels.com) also might be getting some, but I'm not sure whats in the works there. I asked both to be on the list if they get some, I got one confirmation back, so hopefully I get one, and even better, maybe two.


S2

[tonyestep]

Hard to believe (but very cool) that everybody is so hepped up by a 2M plane. It shows the power of Philip's reputation as a top-notch designer. Maybe it also shows that there are guys who want to build something, if they can believe that when it's done it will perform.

It's sad that more EZBDs haven't sold to encourage Denny to keep them in production. That's one of the best-performing planes ever concocted.

[Stuntman]

hmm... I so wanna get one of these imported into Australia. If they fly as well as Larry suggests, maybe they're the Blejzyk First 2M killers!

- bec

Me too - beautiful lines

Shawn

[Hossfly72]

Just saw this thread tonight. That is one brand new Classic! The looks are smoot (like the jazz) and it performs like a HLG. I really liked seeing the javelin launches also. I thought I was the only spear chucker left! Laser cutting is great and I will be talking the wife into getting this as a Christmas present for me!

[Mark Miller]

I have not heard anything from Mr. Kolb in awhile. I'm trying to get an update.

Mark Miller
Isthmus Models

[Larry Jolly]

Mine has been flying for quite a while now. Great little model, with good characteristics. Thomas Cooke, and I joined Philip and Murat at a 2 meter Contest in Izmit Turkey the Sunday before the worlds. We had a great time, with Philip, Murat, and I making it to the flyoff. The wind was at a good pace for the flyoff. I borrowed 150 grams from Philip so I could get the Miles to run.
In the end I manged to tag Philip by a few seconds, thank goodness for a count down bell as when I asked my timer how much time I had left, He said about 2 minutes...No not about 2 minutes How much for real ?? About 2 and a half minutes... Yea.... so I just started coming back, taking my cue from Philip's Miles. I happened to be in the right place and picked up the 10 second count from the automated timer. I am building a second one now as I write the English Instructions. I got a full kit this time and it is pretty nice, a good build. I think Barry will have some of the first ones. Larry

[Blaster]

We, Kennedy Composites, will have the Miles 2 meter in stock in about 2 weeks.

This exciting laser cut kit by European Champion Phillip Kolb is a premium kit. Included are all laser cut parts, a ballast tube and full set of plans all packaged in a handsome box. Miles can be built as a 2 or 3 channel sailplane with spoiler.

We have built a prototype and everything fits together nicely. Even the leading and trailing edge sheeting are pre notched for the rib cap strips.

The first shipment is enroute and we are ready to take pre-orders.

Pictures, specs and more information will be up on web our site, www.kennedycomposites.com , this weekend.

Barry

[rob1978]

how much will it be?

[Wylie Shaw]

I spoke with Barry awhile ago.... and he said they are going to be between $170 - $190 he's not sure yet, he got quite a few comin...... gonna get one




Best Regards,



Wylie S.

[schrederman]

Is this for a kit or an ARF? :o

Well... I read the whole thread and it's a KIT! I have to say I've never seen a kit where ALL the parts cone laser cut.

Alas... I don't do 2-meter... but I'll admit, I'm tempted. :D

[Stuntman]

For those of us not US based, are these available elsewhere in the world?

Any update on availability via Barry?

cheers, Shawn

[Jurgen]

...Alas... I don't do 2-meter...Then buy 2 kits and more glue :D. Jurgen.

[StevenatorLTFO]

Then buy 2 kits and more glue :D. Jurgen.


ZINGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGg

[schrederman]

Alas... I don't do 2-meter... but I'll admit, I'm tempted.........

So, looking at all of this, I might have to eat those words... or extend it to 100"... :eek:

[atjurhs]

I placed an order for one through Barry's website. The site said delivery in Sept.

[Kai@UCSB]

Guys,

Any update for this plane?
It is very surprise that a 2M buildup planes get so many attention. :D
It does look nice!

[Wylie Shaw]

Barry's got them mine should be here Fri 12 or Sat....


Wylie S.

[jcstalls]

Well, how odd. One of these just showed up on my doorstep today. :)
If it were a month or so earlier, she could have been built and trimmed for Visalia; Open, 2M, RES and Woody. :)

This will be a very enjoyable and sweet build, so no rushie rushie on this bird.

The kit is really nice. I am just looking over the plans for the first of many views as there are No instructions included at this time. No biggie as I use instructions as a support guide rather than commands.


Jared

*Odd; well, I email Barry months ago to pre-order. Never heard a word back, so I just blew it off. Today it shows up. Ah, the plesent suprizes in life, alas.

I do not have the time this month to start a build log, so I hope at least one of you will.

There are a few simple things I may change due to building habit, but will keep her mostly stock. Spoilers will be added, glass the fuse, pull/pull the rudder, a we bit o' carbon on replaced spare w/ a side of kevlar wrap and perhaps a set of carbon joiners will be made to replace the heavy steel ones.

Or, do something completly wild and build it dead bone stock!

One sweet kit. :)

Jared

[Rain City Flyer]

I just got my shipping notice from Barry and am looking forward to this beautiful plane's arrival.

Larry - Any suggestions for us early (USA anyway) adopters?

Thanks,

Chris in Seattle

[Larry Jolly]

Guys,
I apologize I have been preoccupied and am just now finishing up the instructions. My recommendation is that the MILES flies great stock from the box. Take that for what it is worth, I oracovered mine, Philip glassed his fuselage because the only thing he does better than cover is solder :-) Be careful you don't sand the nose to sharp it is east to really sharpen that baby up. When you assemble the fuselage laminate the balsa to the joined plywood sides on a flat board. Start the fuselage joining by locating the front and rear wing bay bulkheads and wing mount plate to one fuselage side then add the other side. If you get this assembly straight and true the rest is pretty easy. I left the bottom sheeting of the fuselage off until the end so that I could make sure had easy access and didn't build a twist in to it. Use the right shear webs and capstrips in the right place small ones go in the tips. Be real careful with wing ribs 10A-B there is not much there after you take them out of the parts sheet. I glued the ribs flat aft of the spar and then came back and matched them to the leading edge camber. I used a 4 cell 1000ma pack 2-368's and a 6200 RX. If you have any specific questions fire away. LJ

[StevenatorLTFO]

I'm trying to dump some plastic models on ebay, so I can get enough dough in my poor old paypal account to get me one of these :D

Stev

[Robglover]

:D Guys,
I apologize I have been preoccupied and am just now finishing up the instructions. My recommendation is that the MILES flies great stock from the box. Take that for what it is worth, I oracovered mine, Philip glassed his fuselage because the only thing he does better than cover is solder :-) Be careful you don't sand the nose to sharp it is east to really sharpen that baby up. When you assemble the fuselage laminate the balsa to the joined plywood sides on a flat board. Start the fuselage joining by locating the front and rear wing bay bulkheads and wing mount plate to one fuselage side then add the other side. If you get this assembly straight and true the rest is pretty easy. I left the bottom sheeting of the fuselage off until the end so that I could make sure had easy access and didn't build a twist in to it. Use the right shear webs and capstrips in the right place small ones go in the tips. Be real careful with wing ribs 10A-B there is not much there after you take them out of the parts sheet. I glued the ribs flat aft of the spar and then came back and matched them to the leading edge camber. I used a 4 cell 1000ma pack 2-368's and a 6200 RX. If you have any specific questions fire away. LJ

Larry -
Since you haven't got the instructions done yet why don't you just bring me a finished Miles to the Masters for pick-up? I wouldn't want to rush you or anything... :D

[atjurhs]

I got mine today :) :) :) :) :) And I know Bubba got his.

Hey Rob how about if you start a build thread when you build yours?

I'm waist deep in building a 2 panel Bubble Dancer wing right now or I'd do a build thread. The community surely could use one on this kit, and we know what a quality builder you are (can you hear the winds of suckin-up, hopefully they're loud enough). Great! glad to hear you say yes :D

[Robglover]

Todd -
I might be able to contribute to a build thread. But I suspect that somebody else might get around to it before I do. Next week or so looks busy with travel to the Masters and other stuff.

The kit does look very nice though. It may well get moved to the head of my "models to be built" que. Looks like it will go together quickly.

[ullar]

Sections! PK - xxxx (PK being Philip Kolb)

Hello everyone!
The profile is supposed to be PK/FB01-FB04 that I assume to be Philip Kolb's Flat Bottom 01 going to 04 on wing tip.
Perhaps nothing special but I'm still curious.
Does anybody have a drawing of that profile or picture of some ribs?
Any other comments on the wing section?

Chears,
Ullar

[uav-oscar]

Hi,

if you want to see the flight video of Miles just check :


http://www.vimeo.com/1638690 The flight of miles between 1.38 sec- 3.37..(blue and yellow coloured one) the other flights are our local club field , in the beging some prototype flight tests, miles flight ( nice rolls and inverted flight video of miles & landing with spoilers ) , and the last seconds you can see an emergency landing of Impulse glider.. tip stall :eek:

I also have a Pike Superior and Miles and I love the Miles flying style soo much.. without aileron just only rudder it can roll perfect..nice loops and inverted flights too.. :) Of course a perfect thermal hunter.. I used a 4 cell AAA Nimh 1100ma pack, 3-HS 56's servos and a Berg 4 channel RX. Flying weight 745 grams with 3 servos & spoiler..

Happy landings...

[kll]

here is what i record during test runs of another miles. purple miles.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6730257180553224313

[saarisalo]

Opened the boxes and this is what I found. Too bad I may not be able to keep all this for myself...

;)
-mikko

[3810]

saarisalo,
Hi, have you got those for sale? I would be interested in one.Could you please give me details of cost.

3810

[Tuomo]

saarisalo,
Hi, have you got those for sale? I would be interested in one.Could you please give me details of cost.

Hahaa, do not even try that! All 26 kits are sold. This was a group order. We decided to pump up some new life to the 2m class here in Finland. 26 Miles, 5 million people... Hmmm... Highest Miles 2m density (per population) in the world?

[Wylie Shaw]

HA with that many MILES you could convene a yearly Miles convention with all the goodies scantly clad women, booze the works..... :cool: :cool: ;) ;) ;) ;) :eek: :eek: :eek:


Best Regards,



Wylie S.

[3810]

Sorry didnt know about the group order,it was woth a try!!!

3810

[Kai@UCSB]

Does Miles strong enough to take full winch launch as an Allegro-lite?

-Kai

[Robglover]

Does Miles strong enough to take full winch launch as an Allegro-lite?

-Kai
Kai -
Not likely. There is no composite in the spar. It will take a moderate winch launch, but save the lead foot for another plane.

[Robglover]

I managed to clean enough junk off the flat surfaces in my shop to get the kit box opened up, so here are some first impressions.

The kit is number 46 of the first production run of 70.

The box is of a high quality with nice slick graphics. This won't make the plane fly better, but it makes a nice first impression. If I saw it mixed in with a pile of other model boxes in the local hobby shop I'd pull it out to look inside.

The wood is very nice. I haven't seen wood of this high quality in a kit for a long time. The balsa is clean and light. Spruce wing spars have straight grain, and the plywood is real with no lite ply noticed.

Laser cutting is excellent. The parts that I've mated up so par fit perfectly. Charred edges provided at no extra cost. Parts are laser marked for indentification. Cap strips and shear webs are lasercut as well!

Hardware package looks to be pretty complete, it even includes a couple of tiny magnets for hatch hold down.

There are 2 large graphics sheets provided. They are the same but of different colors, meaning that one should work with most any color you decide to use for your plane. Nice touch.

The plans are well done. If you've built a few planes before you'll appreciate the extra section views provided wherever needed. Part numbers on the plan match the numbers on the parts, this is good. If you can read the language of an engineering drawing then you should be able to build this plane using the plans. This is a good thing, because instructions have not yet been made available. (Less for me to ignore ;) )

There are a lot of parts! I'm grateful to Mr. Laser for having spent the time to cut them all out for me. Barry Kennedy told me that the plane was "over engineered" - I now see what he means, and I appreciate the over engineering. The plane was designed by Philip Kolb, designer of the Pike series. I can see the same competence in this totally different plane. Yes there are a lot of seperate parts, but they all look to fit together with a united purpose. For example, he's added cross grain tips to the stabs and rudder, which should help keep the surfaces warp free. More parts, but with a purpose.

I've always enjoyed building well done wood kits with my trusty bottle of Tightbond. Looks like this one is going to fall right in that category.

[Robglover]

The plans get an initial cat scan.

[Twizter68]

The plans get an initial cat scan.


A we all kknow just how important a thorough cat scan is! :D

[atjurhs]

It's the cat "markings" that you want to avoid, unless you like warped surfaces and flying by yourself because your plane has a funny odor :D

I don't have any cats. Do you think a dog scan would work? I've got two off them.

Keep posting Bubba, I've got ya bookmarked and I'm hoping to learn a few things.....

[OVSS Boss]

Not by that cat twizter...

[seanpcola]

I don't have any cats. Do you think a dog scan would work? I've got two off them.

.

No, not at all. What you want for that is a "Lab" test. :D

[atjurhs]

Arrrrgh, mine are both Golden Retrievers. Hey, maybe I can use them at the end of its first flight :D

[jihlein]

Mine arrived today, looks great. Need to finish my son's Chrysalis 2M before I dive into this one, though.

One question:

How well does the mono spoiler work? I did not care for it on one of my previous sailplanes, controls did not feel right no matter how little or how much the spoiler was deployed. I really think it blanked the tail surfaces.

The Miles, being a woodie, would allow for modification into the more traditional dual spoiler configuration. Wondering if it would be worth the effort and slight weight gain?

John Ihlein
Albuquerque, NM

[jcstalls]

Cool, a build. Thank you.

Being the superstitious type, I would tend to say the cat has blessed this plane, it's build and especially it's flights w/ "9 Lives."

Jared

[Robglover]

Cool, a build. Thank you.

Being the superstitious type, I would tend to say the cat has blessed this plane, it's build and especially it's flights w/ "9 Lives."

Jared

Jared -
Thanks for bringing a little sanity back to this thread. It had gone to the dogs.

[Robglover]

Mine arrived today, looks great. Need to finish my son's Chrysalis 2M before I dive into this one, though.

One question:

How well does the mono spoiler work? I did not care for it on one of my previous sailplanes, controls did not feel right no matter how little or how much the spoiler was deployed. I really think it blanked the tail surfaces.

The Miles, being a woodie, would allow for modification into the more traditional dual spoiler configuration. Wondering if it would be worth the effort and slight weight gain?

John Ihlein
Albuquerque, NM

John -
In my experience the single center spoiler can work very well, I like it on the AVA. Of course, I have yet to try it on the Miles.

[atjurhs]

John,

A few years back I built an OLYII with a "uni-brow spoiler" an last year a 100inch scratch RES called a Bantam that Jack Womack designed. Both of these planes' spoiler/elevator can be made to work well together; however, the elevator compensation curve for both of them is "squiggly" (non-linear). It just takes a bit of trial and error testing to get it dialed in.

Later this Winter when I build my Miles, I will certainly give it a spoiler. Whether that spoiler is split or uni-brow, will depend on how easily either one can be adapted into the kit with the fewest mods.

[kzimmerm]

... A few years back I built an OLYII with a "uni-brow spoiler" an last year a 100inch scratch RES called a Bantam that Jack Womack designed. .....

Never heard of it called a "uni-brow" :eek: but LMAO! :D

Kurt

[Robglover]

After a spirited game of cat hockey I was able to reclaim the bench and glue some parts together. Tailfeathers are now assembled and rough sanded.

[FrogChief]

John,

A few years back I built an OLYII with a "uni-brow spoiler" an last year a 100inch scratch RES called a Bantam that Jack Womack designed. Both of these planes' spoiler/elevator can be made to work well together; however, the elevator compensation curve for both of them is "squiggly" (non-linear). It just takes a bit of trial and error testing to get it dialed in.

Later this Winter when I build my Miles, I will certainly give it a spoiler. Whether that spoiler is split or uni-brow, will depend on how easily either one can be adapted into the kit with the fewest mods.


"Uni-brow" spoiler... LOL LMFAO!!!! :p :p :D :D :D :D :p :D

[Soar_dude]

Uni-brow spoiler Priceless :D :rolleyes:

Soar Dude

[Robglover]

Here is a photo of all the laser cut fuselage parts. Some are balsa, some thin ply and some thicker ply. 1 and 2 mm more or less.

All of the balsa and thin ply parts seperated cleanly. The thicker ply pieces weren't completely cut through by the laser. After freeing a few pieces with a sharp xacto I got bored. The quick way to do this is to sand the back side of the ply with an electric jitterbug (palm sander). Just takes a minute and the pieces will seperate like they should.

[jcstalls]

Looking sweet.

So, have you decided on a bone stock build or ?

Jared

[atjurhs]

I've always had a difficult time building a straight/true wood fuselage (mine usually have come out twisted in one or more ways), so Rob Isure hope that you'll show several pics of your fuse's build, please :)

[jihlein]

"So, have you decided on a bone stock build or ?"

FWIW,

I'll probably build mine with the spoiler, or at least build in the bay to start with.

I am considering tapering the mid panel spars from their stock width at the root of the panel to 1/8" wide at the end of the panel. The tip spars will be modified to 1/8" wide for the span of the tip panel, and taper in thickness from root of the panel to the end of the panel. The tip panel may also get 1/32" shear webs. These dimensions are approximate, I don't have the metric spar dimensions on hand.

I've seen this tapering done on some other models (the Yardbird I'm currently working on for example) and it seems a good way to get some weight out of the tips. I don't think spars need to be that beefy on the extremities to support flight loads.

John

[quigley257]

This is definitely one of the prettiest woodies I have seen. Do you think it would be a worthwhile thing to cap the spars with CF? I don't use a winch, so it probably does not matter. My other thought is that the fuse is so skinny at the rear, would it be worth it to glass the fuse with .75oz cloth to add strength? Is there enough room in the fuse to accommodate an electric setup? Electric would be the ideal situation for me due to limited launch space.

--quigley :D

[kzimmerm]

I've always had a difficult time building a straight/true wood fuselage (mine usually have come out twisted in one or more ways), so Rob Isure hope that you'll show several pics of your fuse's build, please :)


One of the things I built for myself years ago is a jig for building a fuselage. It is nothing more than a 1"x6" about 48" long. I drew a center line down the middle of the board. Then I use 5" L brackets on either side of the center line that are held in place with thumb screws. Each L bracket can slide so I can adjust the position of the fuse while it is in the jig.

I first used this on a Dodgson Lovesong and found it to work so well that all future builds were to use this.

If I get a chance I can take a bunch of photos and post them.

A good friend of mine builds off of glass. What he does is something quite similar by placing the plans on top of a piece of metal then the glass on top of the plans. He uses magnets to hold his parts in place as well as uses the magnets to hold his fuse square.

So the idea is to jig build your fuse no matter what you do.

Good luck. Can't wait to see more of this build.

Kurt

[jcstalls]

Capping the spars w/ C/F may disqualify it from some of the Woody contest, so this and other possible mods may want to be considered. But, if the builder does not care for these, go for it. :)

On the joiners for those that have the kit, please, do they really need to be this beefy, strong and heavy towards the tip? I could see it if the spars were c/f capped and Kevlar wraps for busten winches, but it is not. IMHO

Oh, I just put mine up for kit up for sale yesterday. I am going to retract it and sell something else off. This is the most expensive two meter wood kit I have ever had, yet, she sure looks nice. Even better within a year when the price drops to around $129.00 or so for several reasons.

Jared

[kzimmerm]

... Capping the spars w/ C/F may disqualify it from some of the Woody contest, so this and other possible mods may want to be considered. But, if the builder does not care for these, go for it. :) ....
Jared

Correct me if I'm wrong but by improving the structure without changing the physical design, such as adding C/F to a spar structure, would not disqualify the plane from a woody event.

This is what I found:

http://www.skybench.com/woodcraft/index.html

Kurt

[spinolio]

Carbon cap is "no problem" at our woodie.

[jcstalls]

Nothing to correct my friend, just depends on the area you are flying in.

I remember chatting on this board w/ Ray back around when the EZBD came out, and qualified it as woody. But even with this, not in my neck of the woods, or, er, concrete.

For the Woody class in our regional SC2 here in SoCal, no way. The first year of Woody here a few back, fiberglass fuses were not even allowed. They are now provided they were that way or available as an option.

I would say no problem when I would run one. What I would be looking for is the Spirit of the rule and not the exact lettering of doctorate.
Is built up, mostly wood, non-molded wings and so on.

It would be nice to have an ISO on Woodies in our country, or wouldn't it?

Jared

[jcstalls]

Opps, I just realized this thread is going to the dogs again, Sorry.

"Ruff, Ruff,.......Meooooow."

ThreadStarter; Please delete as desired

Jared

[Robglover]

Looking sweet.

So, have you decided on a bone stock build or ?

Jared

So far I have not seen anything I want to change. I'll probably not add any carbon to the spar, I have a Supra M that I can break strings with if I feel like breaking strings. I find "old school" wood planes very enjoyable as they are and I can generally get them airborne without mishap.

I'll make some efforts (nothing heroic) to keep things light.

[OVSS Boss]

Got mine today, lots of parts, looks good, I will shake and bake later.

Marc

[jcstalls]

Ya, I am really tempted to do the same Rob. Quite unusual for me, yet could be refreshing.

Balsa, wood glue, a spot of epoxy, shape, sand, cover and gear up. Mmmm, just like life before moldies and ARF's. :)

Jared

[SmokinJoe101]

When is the ARF Miles AVA? :eek:

sj

[TheNightowl]

One of the things I built for myself years ago is a jig for building a fuselage. It is nothing more than a 1"x6" about 48" long. I drew a center line down the middle of the board. Then I use 5" L brackets on either side of the center line that are held in place with thumb screws. Each L bracket can slide so I can adjust the position of the fuse while it is in the jig. ...

If I get a chance I can take a bunch of photos and post them.

AKurt
I'd like to see some pictures of that, myself.
Nightowl

[ezmo]

How about the plywood plate on fuse under wing (where wing is attached), is that really strong enough for histarts. I would have liked to put bit thicker one on there. I definetly will replace those screws with nylon ones, if cartwheel landings takes place, twisted wing doesnt rip off fuse.

Esa

[Robglover]

How about the plywood plate on fuse under wing (where wing is attached), is that really strong enough for histarts. I would have liked to put bit thicker one on there. I definetly will replace those screws with nylon ones, if cartwheel landings takes place, twisted wing doesnt rip off fuse.

Esa
Looks beefy enough to me right now, time will tell.

[Robglover]

Alrighty then, let the fun begin...

I assembled most of the fuselage parts dry to check fits and familiarize myself with the way this thing will go together. It became clear that I need to build up several subassemblies first.

It also became clear (again) that the designer has a lot on the ball. This thing goes together kind of like a Swiss watch. This is the result of the fusion of a designer who knows what he wants to do who also knows the ins and outs of modern 3D CAD and CAM systems.

[Robglover]

These parts look to me like they should all be glued to each other first.

[Robglover]

A fuselage side consists of 2 long ply pieces laminated to 2 long balsa pieces. Because Todd wants a straight fuselage I need to ensure that the 2 resulting fuselage sides match each other as closely as possible once the glue is dry.

I'm using Titebond because I like it. Other adhesives could be used, so use your favorite.

First step is to thin some Titebond to the consistancy of heavy cream. Thinning makes it brush on more easily. Lay out the fuse sides in the proper orientation (1 right, 1 left, ply inside) and brush a coat of Titebond onto the mating surfaces of the 8 parts. Let this dry. Yep, just lay them back down seperately wet side up and let the glue dry. Don't stick them together yet, that happens later. The parts will bow a little, no problem.

[Robglover]

After the glue has dried slap the sides together in the proper orientation.
Proper orientation is glued side to glued side, with the ply to the outside of the sandwich.

I then cut up some popsicle sticks and used various pieces of wood the proper thickness to push through all the keying slots in the fuselage sides. If the fit of all these scraps is good it will force all 4 pieces into perfect alignment with each other. This is key to maintaining a straight fuselage.

Note that at this point there is no uncured adhesive or wet glue to worry about, take your time. You should wind up with a sandwich that looks like the fuselage side with ply-balsa-balsa-ply layers. The pre-glued surfaces should meet at the ply-balsa interfaces.

Lay it down on a flat surface and put some weights on it. Everything should be flat, 4 layers thick.