Spirit 100

[Steve Boone]

I see in the manual that the advanced wing can be built with no polyhedral. Has anyone done this? After much thought I decided to go with the kit over the ARF. The kit is lighter and it allows me to built both wings eventually and to make mods. I will be stretching the wing and using 4-6 servos in it. I haven't decided on spoilers yet. I'm considering winglets as well. I'm thinking of stretching the fuse as well to get rid of the need for lead in the nose. I might go with a big honkin' 6v battery setup instead though. :D Any ideas or comments?

[webbsolution]

I see in the manual that the advanced wing can be built with no polyhedral. Has anyone done this? After much thought I decided to go with the kit over the ARF. The kit is lighter and it allows me to built both wings eventually and to make mods. I will be stretching the wing and using 4-6 servos in it. I haven't decided on spoilers yet. I'm considering winglets as well. I'm thinking of stretching the fuse as well to get rid of the need for lead in the nose. I might go with a big honkin' 6v battery setup instead though. :D Any ideas or comments?


Build the plane like it was designed and it will reward you well. Drop the poly in the wing and you will find that you lose some stability on launch, you have a major issue if you have a warp and turning or rolling that wing also changes considerably. Remember the control surface size is also based on the poly wing.

Considering the fact that you considered purchasing an ARF and now have opted to build the kit I would caution you on modifying the wing to fit 6 servo's.

Spoilers AND winglets? Make sure you build them into the advanced wing as well then you will have flaps, spoilers, winglets and maybe add in a drag chute for fast approaches.

Seriously, the advanced wing sounds like a good place to start. My modification suggestion is to add in a second servo bay for 2 flap servos and reduce to a moderate torque but smaller servo. This way you can use aileron to flap coupling which makes a big difference.

[petefly58]

I have an advanced wing Spirit 100 which I flew for about 6 years. During construction, I eliminated the polyhedral and only kept the center dihedral. This model flew great in this configuration. Of course it was more sensitive in the roll axis then it otherwise would be. And it wasn't my first aileron model. Of course, if this is your first aileron model, you might want to consider going with the polyhedral as originally designed. Some of this depends on your flying experience.

Pete

[Steve Boone]

I have tons of experience with aileron ships. As for building it stock, the non-poly wing is a stock option. I just haven't known anyone until now that had tried it. I'm in the debating stage of the build so I'm looking at options. At the very least it will have duel flap servos. I've read of only one guy who went with both flap & spoilers and he liked it. Others have said it's overkill. If you build them and want them gone no big deal, if you don't and decide you want them it's a bigger deal. I'm leaning towards no spoilers but I'm looking for experiences of others to base my final decision on. Winglets would flat look sweet on a non-poly winged version. Something about them just looks stylish to me and we all want our planes to look good and be different from everyone elses right? :D

[sneasle]

I am considering building my spirit elite with a 6 servo wing, similar to your intentions. I think it may have some advantages, but you want to make sure you keep the weight low.

If I build it as a 4 servo wing, I may go with HS-81's for it, If I go with 6, then I will probably use HS-56's.

Keep in mind that you want a little weight outboard as possible.

[Soar_dude]

I am considering building my spirit elite with a 6 servo wing, similar to your intentions. I think it may have some advantages, but you want to make sure you keep the weight low.

If I build it as a 4 servo wing, I may go with HS-81's for it, If I go with 6, then I will probably use HS-56's.

Keep in mind that you want a little weight outboard as possible.

You really do not need six servos for the wing the trailing edge is a simple straight edge most six servo wings have curved trailing edge or curved polyhedrals

As for building it stock, the non-poly wing is a stock option. I just haven't known anyone until now that had tried it. I'm in the debating stage of the build so I'm looking at options. At the very least it will have duel flap servos.

I have the advanced wing from the ARF it flies very well the only real reason to have a flat wing is inverted aerobatic flying which is fine in its self. Having some poly in the wing will make turns in a thermal easier.

I've read of only one guy who went with both flap & spoilers and he liked it.

Spoilers are overkill the flaps are very effective glide path control. I have not installed servos for the spoilers and left them alone. For the life of me I cannot reason why they put spoilers in the wing unless you wanted to fly RES and leave the servos out for the flaps and ailerons.

After much thought I decided to go with the kit over the ARF. The kit is lighter and it allows me to built both wings eventually and to make mods.

The ARF fuse can be finished just as light as the kit it only takes a little work. I replaced all the metal hardware for attaching wings and horizontal stabilizer, then I replaced the metal pushrods with the Sullivan carbon fiber re-enforced pushrods. I moved all the electronics and servos as far forward as I could get them. If you are going to build both the Sport wing and the Advanced wing get then get the kit, but if not get the ARF the workman ship in the ARF is very good other then the wrinkled covering mine flew just as well as the kit.

Soar Dude

[Tim Wolff]

I reviewed the ARF for LiftZone:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=444966

I also saw no reason to add spoilers to a flap/elevator wing.

Lengthing the nose a bit wouldn't hurt, but you prob. won't be saving much nose weight doing so. The ARF fuse is very nicely done. I'd consider buying the ARF fuse and kit building the wing, if I already had the kit. You might consider glassing the entire wood fuse. It was well worth the effort when I did so on my Olympic II years ago. Holds up much better than a monokoted fuse.

[sneasle]

I agree that they may not be needed... but then again, so much in this hobby isn't needed. We don't need smoke, we don't need 2:1 thrust ratio's, we don't need a lot of things, but we still do them.

[Soar_dude]

I reviewed the ARF for LiftZone:
If I already had the kit. You might consider glassing the entire wood fuse. It was well worth the effort when I did so on my Olympic II years ago. Holds up much better than a monokoted fuse.

The kit fuse is really really stought I have had my kit fuse lawn dart hard enough to shear the 1/4-20 nylon screws on the wing, pop the canopy off and send the battery about 10 feet away. This was awhile back before I got my Eclipse radio and was still using AM radio and had a hit that sent the elevator full down about 15 feet up.

Soar Dude