My boat project..

[Gearstix]

Hi Guys... I'm new here.
I've got a boat here somewhere, which I bought at Walmart (yea I know, cheap) a few years ago, and haven't used it much. I would like to make it faster and improve the control, maybe make the rudder turn faster.
I'm on a budget. Would like to upgrade the motor, and switch it over to a battery pack (takes 8 I think AA batteries now.)
What would you reccomend for the motor? I'm considering converting it to dual engine dual prop.. but I'm kinda new to this R/C gear so maybe just a powerful single engine and a better prop?

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat003.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat002.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat001.jpg
Heres the boat. I'll find the top for the batteries and the transmitter.
I know the boats not gunna be worth it. but if I can make it faster and have some fun while doing it its worth it to me.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat004.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat005.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat006.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat007.jpg
Theres the guts..
What would cause the top of the motor to be corroded?
Could water be getting in? this is the first time its been opened.

[pusar]

In order to get the results you are looking for I suggest putting your money in a new boat. If you were on a budget I would highly recommend looking at a different boat. Water can be causing corrosion. The plastic hull may be old and brittle. Why spend your good money and have water leak in and ruin your investment? I am not telling you to spend more money just to spend it wisely so you can enjoy it.

You are on the right track to upgrading. Just not on this boat. This boat is made to be what it is. I am sure this boat eats thru the batteries. And that is a cost in itself. :o

What is your budget like?


Marty

[retoabcr]

I agree with the gentleman above; no use in tossing good money after bad!

[Ghost 2501]

issues:
1 - corroded motor
I have had similar problems with a yacht with the switches and contacts corroding, because they're in a confined, non breathing space, the fact that the hull's deck, warmed by the sun and its storage (my bedroom) then being placed in what is comparitavly cool water, this caused condensation to form. - I suspect condensation may be the result of the corroded motor casing, its only mild steel after all.

2 - brittle plastic
Judging on my experience with the Yamato I have, which is a plastic kit some 10 years old, though the smaller items like masts are brittle, the hull is quite sound, so I dont think that will be much of a problem. on the corrosion issue, I have noticed that your screws are still quite shiny, even the ones at the bottom of the boat.

3 - motor upgrade
for that, an upgrade, maybe a 540 sized motor, loads of them around so prices are comparitibely low, however the motor looks to be a 380 type. firstly you will need to put a longer shaft in, which will push the motor forwards, this is because of the low level inside the hull that the shaft lies. that gearbox, although it reduces the gearing, also drops the drive level by about half to 3 quarters of an inch, ideally I suspect the motor should be placed where your control tray is now.

4 - control tray
this should be replaced with a 2ch radio set, a hitec or Futaba gear will be more than adequate, though you can get some cheap 27 gear on the market on e-bay, try and get one with a servo set.

5 - rear servo / rudder assembly remove the current rudder assembly, and get a replacement one, now you may need to get some plastic tube, however it may be better to cap off your rudder location and install a new rudder assembly. the mounting tray, adapt that to mount your new servo.

6 - batteries: get some sub-C type battery packs, 7,2 or 8.4v two packs with a Y-lead, mount these low in the hull, slightly aft, so when sat in the water your boat sits slightly stern down.

7 - esc, or (electronic speed control), most of these come with what is known as BEC, or battery elimination circuit, this means that you do not need a seperate reciever battery. Your ESC powers your reciever.

8 - internal access, this is simple, remove the deck mounted battery tray that held the 8 AA batteries. this will also allow you to get down to the hull base to seringe any water out should any get in.

[Gearstix]

How much faster would it be if I put in the 540 motor? I found one on Tower Hobbies for 11 bucks so maybe I'll get that.
I could run rechargable batteries instead of a battery pack?
I'm considering 6 " AA 2600mAh high capacity NiMH Rechargeable battery"
http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=566

Instead of going and sinking money into a boat, I think I'll install a 540 motor, and make it turn better, and switch over to rechargable AA's or a battery pack.
(could I run a higher voltage? like 11.1?)
I think that return spring on the rudder assembly may be limiting how much its turning so I'm gunna try changing the spring, it may do the trick.
if I do keep the AA's I'm gonna cut the fake air intakes on the back off, make a door with a seal, an put some model car engines there for show, and make a trap door of sorts, so I can have access if I need to syringe out some water.

[Ghost 2501]

you will need a new motor mount and longer shaft, so if you are going to modify it, go rght down to the hull

[Gearstix]

you will need a new motor mount and longer shaft, so if you are going to modify it, go rght down to the hull
So your saying that I should lower the engine in the hull.. which would mean the prop would be rasied?
EDIT: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSR96&P=7 theres the motor I was gunna get.. Is that okay?

Video
http://s134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/?action=view&current=boat008.flv

[sleb]

Gear,
I would also recommend putting money in a new boat, you may want to look at http://www.vac-u-boat.com/ at the cracker and pickle if you are looking at go fast boats.
Steve :)

[hpiguy]

This boat will be many times faster than stock with that Walmart boat and not even close in price to trying to modify that boat.

Search Tower for Turbo Vee. Everything you need,dirt cheap.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/hpiguy/th_TurboVeeVideo4-2005.jpg (http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y213/hpiguy/?action=view&current=TurboVeeVideo4-2005.flv)

[Ghost 2501]

that motor would do the job, however, I wouldnt recomend that you alter the prop angle, instead, put a new shaft in.

guys, though you all say to gearstix "get a new boat", I look at it this way, firstly one must learn how to solder, how to install internal gubbins in a boat, so better to learn on a cheap hull than a $300 kit.

even I have converted an RTR and had plenty of fun with it whilst I built my first model.

[LtDoc]

One way of making the rudder more effective is to make it larger. Not necessarily 'deeper', but front/back 'longer'.
Changing batteries involves finding the right size to fit in the hull, keeping the voltage the same (if you don't change motors) and increasing the capacity (mAhs). If you do change motor then make sure the battery supplies what the new motor wants to see.
While all of that isn't exactly the easiest things to do, they are probably the cheapest, sort of. Nobody says you gotta to all that at one time, you know?
New boat / old boat? New boat, of course! :) But then, instead of throwing the old one out, experiment with it. Waste of money? We are talking about boats. They are all a waste of money! ;) You know, the hole you throw money into?
- 'Doc

[Gearstix]

that motor would do the job, however, I wouldnt recomend that you alter the prop angle, instead, put a new shaft in.

So that motor is gunna make it faster? Its gunna cost more to ship me the motor than what the motor is listed for. I don't want to buy the wrong one..
I'm not sure of the diameter of the prop shaft, but the gear thats there would have to fit it, and it would have to fit in the tunnel for the prop.
I see ones like this on tower hobbies
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCSZ1&P=7
but I'm not sure how I'd use that.
For that motor, I need to keep the capacitors right?
I was gunna crimp the wires together.

[Rex R]

keep the capacitors yes. you could crimp the wires...if you don't mind having the ends burn off :). seriously for your motor/main battery connectors/wires solder them! crimped connections will not last long.

[Gearstix]

keep the capacitors yes. you could crimp the wires...if you don't mind having the ends burn off :). seriously for your motor/main battery connectors/wires solder them! crimped connections will not last long.
Ok. I will do. Could you guys reccomend a soldering iron for this purpose?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-RS-540-Sport-Tuned-Electric-Motor-53068_W0QQitemZ200211649409QQihZ010QQcategoryZ4402 8QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Theres a 540 Tamiya motor. Would my electronics handle this motor?
Which would you get, the Crest 540 motor above or the Tamiya one listed here?

[Ghost 2501]

all I use is a £5.99 ($11.00+sales tax) cheap soldering iron from a hardware store,

[Gearstix]

all I use is a £5.99 ($11.00+sales tax) cheap soldering iron from a hardware store,
Ok. If I don't have a soldering iron I'll go buy one.
Which motor would you use Ghost?
Whats the purpose of changing the prop shaft?

[Ghost 2501]

well I dont run high speed boats parse, the fast boat I have is a Robbe Najade with a "700" type motor in it.

changing the shaft to an M4 diameter shaft makes getting a new propeller easier as you know its thread type. these RTR models dont have a set prop size and if you break a blade (which does happen - I've done it!)you can't get a replacement. break a blade on an M4 thread prop, replacing is easy as ringing up your LHS, as simple as "send me a 30mm 2 blade right handed prop, M4 thread please, here are my credit card details, blah blah blah"

[Gearstix]

well I dont run high speed boats parse, the fast boat I have is a Robbe Najade with a "700" type motor in it.

changing the shaft to an M4 diameter shaft makes getting a new propeller easier as you know its thread type. these RTR models dont have a set prop size and if you break a blade (which does happen - I've done it!)you can't get a replacement. break a blade on an M4 thread prop, replacing is easy as ringing up your LHS, as simple as "send me a 30mm 2 blade right handed prop, M4 thread please, here are my credit card details, blah blah blah"
I can't seem to find anything suitable on Tower hobbies. Is there another site I can go to that would sell a 540 motor or similar (is it gonna be fast with that 540, any estimates on speed so I get an idea?)

[frankg]

:) GEARSTIX- Try looking at the M.A.C.K. PRODUCTS line up of motors. I think the Model #3600 motor would be right up your alley. www.mackproductsrc.com :)

[boater_dave]

Plenty of good tech advice, but lacking the one item he really needs- help.
Gearstix, have you looked around for a local club that runs boats? Even clubs that run r/c cars or planes would help. Any of these hobbies will have guys who know batteries, motors, radios, and can help with the odd soldering job. You may even find someone who is willing to sell you his old equipment (radio, chargers, batteries) for cheap! Is there a local hobby shop where you can talk to a person? They would also know about local clubs.
Good luck!

Dave

[Gearstix]

Plenty of good tech advice, but lacking the one item he really needs- help.
Gearstix, have you looked around for a local club that runs boats? Even clubs that run r/c cars or planes would help. Any of these hobbies will have guys who know batteries, motors, radios, and can help with the odd soldering job. You may even find someone who is willing to sell you his old equipment (radio, chargers, batteries) for cheap! Is there a local hobby shop where you can talk to a person? They would also know about local clubs.
Good luck!

Dave
Dave, there is a R/C plane club here, but its out of town. There is a hobby shop but the place is very expensive. I bought the stuff to redo my R/C Monster Patrol (replaced the body and added in body mounts + pins, changed from a Chevy Silverado to a Chevrolet El Camino body) from them.. :eek:
I may see if they have any used motors and stuff, I may find enough stuff to rebuilt my boat.. or a used boat. But I just want to make mine a bit better, just something to mess around with on the little lake here. You don't go and buy a new car cause you want it faster, you just improve it the old one.. lol.

[Ghost 2501]

gearstix, as for the motor, some of the smaller local hobby stores will for a price solder you the wires onto the motor, you may have to pay for it.

its hard to explain how to solder on a forum, however if you join an RC boat club in your area, they will teach you. soldering and using the solvent products associated with the hobby is probably the part we have all struggled with.

by the way, where are you located? it may give me some idea on clubs in your area I can search out for you

[Gearstix]

gearstix, as for the motor, some of the smaller local hobby stores will for a price solder you the wires onto the motor, you may have to pay for it.

its hard to explain how to solder on a forum, however if you join an RC boat club in your area, they will teach you. soldering and using the solvent products associated with the hobby is probably the part we have all struggled with.

by the way, where are you located? it may give me some idea on clubs in your area I can search out for you
I'm in Fort McMurray, Alberta Canada.
I'll probably bring it to the hobby shop to get soldered. I want to see if I can get a motor there.
How do the motors connect to the prop shafts? I may have to eliminate the gear system on mine, so how do the motors output shaft connect to the prop drive? is it some kinda coupler or what? :confused:

[Ghost 2501]

for coupling, there are 3 types,

1/ universal joint.
These have a hole on one end and a hole on the other, with a connection between that enables them to be used at varying angles. if you use TWO in tandem, you get a drop-leg configuration. this coupling saps energy and is quite noisy, but ideal if you need a split-level drive train.

2/ Barrel coupling, this comes in two verieties, a straight milled piece of aluminum or stainless steel with two grub screws. this requires motor and shaft to be perfectly lined up, ideal for high power models.

3/ silicone coupling, this is used on a lot of low-power models, such as small scale coasters, (Graupner Neptun is one example), very quiet, though the disadvantage is that over time it will begin to slip.

[Gearstix]

for coupling, there are 3 types,

1/ universal joint.
These have a hole on one end and a hole on the other, with a connection between that enables them to be used at varying angles. if you use TWO in tandem, you get a drop-leg configuration. this coupling saps energy and is quite noisy, but ideal if you need a split-level drive train.

2/ Barrel coupling, this comes in two verieties, a straight milled piece of aluminum or stainless steel with two grub screws. this requires motor and shaft to be perfectly lined up, ideal for high power models.

3/ silicone coupling, this is used on a lot of low-power models, such as small scale coasters, (Graupner Neptun is one example), very quiet, though the disadvantage is that over time it will begin to slip.
Well guys I got a motor for free. Its not a 540 but its a bigger one than whats there. Its a Traxxas EZ Start. Not sure what size it is. Will take a side by side comparison when I got the other motor out.
I got it from the hobby store. Guy was helpful and nice.. I've dealt with him before.

[Ghost 2501]

take the traxas motor to the store and ask the storekeeper for
a mount and a coupling (a double UJ will work) and a propshaft + stern tube assembly (m4 shaft)

[Gearstix]

take the traxas motor to the store and ask the storekeeper for
a mount and a coupling (a double UJ will work) and a propshaft + stern tube assembly (m4 shaft)
He doesn't have any boat stuff in right now. But, I will. I'm gunna put the gear on the motor and run it as is for a bit to see if I like the motor

[Ghost 2501]

try westbourne models of the uk :)

[Gearstix]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boatmotor002.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boatmotor003.jpg

I was told these motors burn up quick? I'll be giving it 7.2V..

[Gearstix]

Well..
My cousin's husbands father (lol) is a Naval Architect...
he says the hull design is decent, and thinks that power is the main problem, since the boat doesn't really plane. When I get home, I will try the boat out. I haven't ran it yet with the traxxas motor.
I might try to find some used electronics and run two engines and new shafts and props.

[pkboo]

Stix, do not forget that weight is also a factor when going for speed. Putting two motors in might sound right however you're batt packed is being sucked empty by two instead of one, halving your run times. Secondly the weight of the extra motor might be just too much to get it on a plane. U might wanna stick with one motor, keep the boat light and get an AA batt pack. Try different props, 30mm might be just to much and you'ld have to add water cooling. In M3 you will also find plenty of props to choose from that fit those dia. sizes. Also remember if the boat can carry two motors to use same motors. Boo

[Gearstix]

Well, that was his idea. Use two engines and two propshafts.
See, I had talked to him about making a new hull out of fiberglass, but I showed him pictures of my boat hull. (We were in Jamaica on vacation, I oblivously didn't have the boat there).
You guys are gunna have to tell me what all these words are.. like M4 and such.. I'm new to the boating..
... like what are these.. http://www.mackproductsrc.com/stuff_boxes.htm
It would be easier I think to just redo the single prop/engine setup that is currently on the boat with better parts, stuff with bearings.
I may look around for some new/used electronics and redo it. Nothing extremely expensive or fancy... get a remote and stuff and new speed control.. and what ever else I would need.. (I'm not sure what components I'd need) Would like to use a brushless motor.
See, if I wanted all out speed I'd get a hydroplane or the like, but I honestly don't really like the look of those boats.. I don't mean I like pretty, flashy boats, but in my head thats not a boat..
What about something like the
http://www.mackproductsrc.com/Power%20p2.htm
"2500 Twin Motor-Gear Box Unit "
I hope to get decent speed out of this thing.
But I still haven't tried the boat out. When I left for vacation two weeks ago the lakes and ponds were all frozen.
If I understood him right... he said that he did something kinda like this once on one of there designs, it was something like a rudder but on its side, kinda like the things the older submarines had for pitching the subs up and down, and he used this to pitch his speedboat up and down, maybe I could do something simmilar on this boat??

[Gearstix]

well,
I took the boat out today, and after fixing a wire on the motor that came off, I was using it in the river and little pond that comes off the river, was using it for a while, and then it just stopped dead in the water, walked out to get it and then I took the battery cover off to shut it off and the batteries' plastic labels were off and the batteries were very hot. The rudder is stuck in one direction.

I think its cooked.

Now I'm considering getting some cheaper electronics and a new motor/prop setup or getting a small gas engine and put in it with a new prop setup, or should I just get a different hull?

[Sakura Maru]

Gearstix,
Another motor and ESC, perhaps. But a marine gas engine, even an .09 or .15, is a lot of trouble for that kind of model/toy. For the effort and cost you'd put into it, you're already looking at the price of a new Nikko R/C boat. And it (the Nikko) would run better. I see these nitro guys fussing their fuel adjustments at the pond constantly. If you have no experience with these engines, you are asking for trouble. If you HAVE to make this thing work, go buy a Robbe Navy Direct unit and drop it in there with a standard radio/ESC with a 7.2 volt battery.

[Gearstix]

Gearstix,
Another motor and ESC, perhaps. But a marine gas engine, even an .09 or .15, is a lot of trouble for that kind of model/toy. For the effort and cost you'd put into it, you're already looking at the price of a new Nikko R/C boat. And it (the Nikko) would run better. I see these nitro guys fussing their fuel adjustments at the pond constantly. If you have no experience with these engines, you are asking for trouble. If you HAVE to make this thing work, go buy a Robbe Navy Direct unit and drop it in there with a standard radio/ESC with a 7.2 volt battery.
Well, I don't have to make it work, but is there anything bad about this hull?
I can make mounts and such for motors.

I don't want a hydroplane.

[Gearstix]

I'll have some pictures of the inside of the boat once they upload.
There was water inside when I took the cover off.

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/Boat002-1.jpg

Thats the bottom of the hull.

[Gearstix]

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/Boat001-2.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/Boat002-2.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/Boat004-1.jpg

http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/Boat03.jpg

[Greg_Vincent]

Gearstix, your boat appears to be a non-proportional copy of this boat (http://www.hobbytron.com/RCBoatSportClubElectricRTR125JHC0903.html). I believe the boat sold by Hobbytron is one of the old Graupner boats (like Southampton and St. Tropez) that is now made/distributed by Hobby Engine. So, the hull design should be pretty sound.

You could put your own upgraded equipment in this hull, but, as you can see in the link, for about $60 US, plus shipping to Canada you could get a whole boat! You will probably spend more than that on the radio, speed controller, and batteries (and possibly prop and shaft) to finish upgrading your current boat. Then you will have to figure out how to make it all work together (which this board can help with).

Whichever way you go, good luck and have fun.

Greg

[Gearstix]

Gearstix, your boat appears to be a non-proportional copy of this boat (http://www.hobbytron.com/RCBoatSportClubElectricRTR125JHC0903.html). I believe the boat sold by Hobbytron is one of the old Graupner boats (like Southampton and St. Tropez) that is now made/distributed by Hobby Engine. So, the hull design should be pretty sound.

You could put your own upgraded equipment in this hull, but, as you can see in the link, for about $60 US, plus shipping to Canada you could get a whole boat! You will probably spend more than that on the radio, speed controller, and batteries (and possibly prop and shaft) to finish upgrading your current boat. Then you will have to figure out how to make it all work together (which this board can help with).

Whichever way you go, good luck and have fun.

Greg
Well, I was thinking about gutting everything out of the hull, and getting some basic-er stuff to put in it, get a new radio, esc, stuff like that, run a larger brushless motor so I can get it going good, and a battery pack.

What are some good websites for parts ?
I don't understand how the prop shaft assembly goes, I need a good one cause the one thats in the boat is just metal and plastic. I'd put in a new rear servo for the rudder and a metal prop/rudder.

That boat you show me, is very simmilar to mine. I'm not sure who made my boat.
I got it at walmart a few years ago.
Here it was when I started pulling the decals off.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q106/gearstix/rc%20boat/boat001.jpg

[quicksilver]

firstly just go over to offshore electrics(website) and go to the hints/tips section, there a lot of solid info there and the guy sells everythingyou could need besides being the best salesman on earth.

I was reading through this thread and saw that traxxas motor in there and you saying you were going to go run it and I said to myself, "why is no one warning him that he'll fry everything?" My reason is, that circuit board is probably rated for 2 amps or so, so when you put a bigger motor in, it'll draw more amps, overloading the speed controller and batteries. You really need to upgrade all the electronics.

Get a nice cheap radio($60)
a cheap esc rated for 30amps or so
and a 540 type car motor. I've got like 10 of these laying around, you shouldn't have trouble finding one, they're worth about $5
Once you get all this you have a basic system from which you can upgrade further, with more batteries, bigger motors, water cooling and props. Heck, at that point if you didnt like the boat, you could use all this equipment for a different hull.

[quicksilver]

Upgrading the prop shaft isn't very hard you just need a new shaft, for $11 you can get a 13" long shaft that you can cut to length and comes with all the necessary hardware, except a prop, that you need to figure out. I could help you with that once you decide what you're doing. btw that's on the website I mentioned.

[Gearstix]

"why is no one warning him that he'll fry everything?" My reason is, that circuit board is probably rated for 2 amps or so, so when you put a bigger motor in, it'll draw more amps, overloading the speed controller and batteries.
Well its fried now :(

Thanks for the information, I'll see what I can find. I think the hobby shop here told me the 540s were expensive.

Also, I don't know what to look for in a motor...
Its all new and confusing to me.

[Greg_Vincent]

Are you sure the motor is totally fried? You can do a quick test by disconnecting its wires and hooking them up to a couple of 1.5v batteries. If the motor turns then it may still be usable. But I believe starter motors pull lots of amps and are designed to run for only a few seconds (to start a gasoline engine). So a new motor may still be advisable.

I suggest you pick up an inexpensive digital multimeter to measure amps and volts. I recommend one that comes with alligator clips as well as regular probes for more flexibility in making connections. You can get this (plus a pen-type soldering iron) at Radio Shack (or other electronics store). When used properly (READ THE DIRECTIONS) the meter will let you test your setup before you put it out in the open water to see if it needs to be adjusted. Floating your hull in a test tank (bathtub) and hooking up the multimeter to read the amps when under some type of load will help you make sure you are staying in a safe range. Adding fuses to your setup will also help prevent you from destroying equipment as the fuse will fail first. There are more expensive devices (Watts Up meter) used by the fast electric crowd that will actually provide an amps/watts measurement while the boat is being driven, but I don't think you are trying to push the performance envelope quite that far.

Here is a decent combo (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEL2**&P=0) of radio and ESC that should work. Or you can buy a radio for about $40 and a separate waterproof ESC.

As you can see you have lots of options. Use this board for research as there is a lot of trial and error/experience here to learn from.

Aside from the meter and soldering iron, a few other helpful tools and supplies are: Xacto knife (a copy is fine), utility knife, razor saw with mitre box, small vise/clamp, drill, sandpaper, CA glue, JB Weld, wire, strips of basswood, self-adhesive velcro, etc. Remember that you will be redesigning the interior of this boat to your own specs and so may need to build servo mounts, motor mounts, electronics tray, and so forth.

The articles at OSE are really helpful. Not everything will apply to your level of project but a lot of the principles are the same.

All the best - Greg

[toesup]

I'll see what I can find. I think the hobby shop here told me the 540s were expensive.

Also, I don't know what to look for in a motor...

A 'standard' 540 isnt that expensive...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZV0&P=SM

Though if you want less 'turns' and a higher RPM then you get more expensive..
Higher RPM means more heat and more wear, so you WILL need to watercool the motor (and probably the ESC) if you go 'fast'.

[Gearstix]

Well, I want this thing faster than what it was stock. Alot faster, since it was pretty slow. It did have different specs than the boat that Greg posted. I want it quick but it doesn't have to be insane fast. Something I can have fun with.


What about adding some trim tabs or something like that?
That servo that comes with the radio, I can use that for the rudder, can't I?

I dont think the boat planes, although with the Traxxas motor it seemed to go a wee bit faster, till it died.

[toesup]

Well, I want this thing faster than what it was stock.


What about adding some trim tabs or something like that?
That servo that comes with the radio, I can use that for the rudder, can't I?

I dont think the boat planes, although with the Traxxas motor it seemed to go a wee bit faster, till it died.

Ok...
A 'fast' motor to start with... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUN9&P=SM
You will need to experiment with different props to get the speed from the hull though.

Trim tabs you need to leave till you have it going 'fast'..

The servo (in the pic) wont be good enough...
Use a proper servo (depends on the RC system you 'upgrade' to)
Futaba FM 75mhz with 1 servo..
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNHS2**&P=SM

[Gearstix]

Ok...
A 'fast' motor to start with... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMUN9&P=SM
You will need to experiment with different props to get the speed from the hull though.

Trim tabs you need to leave till you have it going 'fast'..

The servo (in the pic) wont be good enough...
Use a proper servo (depends on the RC system you 'upgrade' to)
Futaba FM 75mhz with 1 servo..
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNHS2**&P=SM
That isn't a brushless motor is it?
I saw that Futaba kit aswell, I'd need an ESC aswell with it, correct?
How much would it cost to get that controller/servo setup, a waterproof ESC that would handle a "fast" motor like toes posted, and prop gear, like u joints and stuff and whatever else I need.

I'm guessing I'll use the same rudder system minus the servo part.
I'm wondering if I could put in a metal rudder.

Maybe some "options" like watercooling...

I'd like to know how much I'd need to spend... I'm building a real pickup aswell so..

[toesup]

1/ That isn't a brushless motor is it?
2/ I saw that Futaba kit aswell, I'd need an ESC aswell with it, correct?
3/ How much would it cost to get that controller/servo setup, a waterproof ESC that would handle a "fast" motor like toes posted, and prop gear, like u joints and stuff and whatever else I need.

4/ I'm guessing I'll use the same rudder system minus the servo part.
5/ I'm wondering if I could put in a metal rudder.

6/ Maybe some "options" like watercooling...

7/ I'd like to know how much I'd need to spend...

1/ No
2/ Yes
3/ RC $90, ESC $50, Prop $15, Shaft $15, UJ $10
4/ OK
5/ Will one fit?
6/ Yes
7/ Speed = Money.... allow $200 - 300 to start with.

[Gearstix]

1/ No
2/ Yes
3/ RC $90, ESC $50, Prop $15, Shaft $15, UJ $10
4/ OK
5/ Will one fit?
6/ Yes
7/ Speed = Money.... allow $200 - 300 to start with.
I honestly don't know if a metal rudder would fit.
2-300.

Should I go brushless?
Opions...
Modifiy my boat, and build it up.. (would it be better than another boat?)

Or

Get another boat for that price?

What I'm trying to is find a boat thats not slow like this one was, and something that handles and turns nice, something I can have fun on the pond without spending a crazy stack of money on it cause I'm not really sure how much I'll get to the pond till I get my license.

[toesup]

1/ Should I go brushless?

2/ Modifiy my boat, and build it up.. (would it be better than another boat?)

Or

Get another boat for that price?


1/ For brushless add $150

2/ Only you can answer that question.

You could shovel $500 in to that hull and still find it was slow...
Like i said "Speed = Money"

[Rex R]

if you wish to consider a different boat and don't mind building one there are some options. build the entire boat(sans hardware) airage media sells boat plans, the electrified is a nice boat(iirc the plans run $20, wood $30), they also list one made from cardboard(which you cover with fibreglass). for some thing requiring less build skills the vac-u-cracker/vac-u-pickle go together fast. there are other hull 'kits' out there that require varying amounts of experience...but the vac-u-boats are prolly the easiest. hth
rex
edit
if you don't like building, the super vee27 isn't bad...:)

[Gearstix]

if you wish to consider a different boat and don't mind building one there are some options. build the entire boat(sans hardware) airage media sells boat plans, the electrified is a nice boat(iirc the plans run $20, wood $30), they also list one made from cardboard(which you cover with fibreglass). for some thing requiring less build skills the vac-u-cracker/vac-u-pickle go together fast. there are other hull 'kits' out there that require varying amounts of experience...but the vac-u-boats are prolly the easiest. hth
rex
edit
if you don't like building, the super vee27 isn't bad...:)
Yea I don't know honestly if I have the skill to create a boat. Maybe if you gave me a woodshop and a few days I'd have a hull but it wouldn't be anything extremely special... might be able to make one out of fiberglass..

I guess I could put some gear in the boat I got and if I dont like it, take it out and put it in another hull.