PDA

View Full Version : Discussion Nitro Models 50cc 2.2m Yak


ditchit
Mar 17, 2008, 07:16 PM
Just got one of these and the elevator servo installation has got me stumped. The very short instructions infer each elevator servo goes in the stabiliser but there are nothing precut to accept them. Otherwise it seems a very good kit for the money.

http://www.nitroplanes.com/new50nimogis.html

mpope1
Mar 17, 2008, 08:04 PM
I have the 69 " version which has an unusual design. One servo for the elevator and there is a carbon fiber rod that goes thru the fuse into each elevator half so you can get away with only using 1 servo. Yours should have 2 do to the size, maybe they mount in the fuse.

Yardbee
Mar 17, 2008, 11:23 PM
Hi Ditchit: Theres A Very Detailed Build Thread Here On RC Groups Of The Nitroplanes 50CC Yak-54. Post #10 Shows Very Detailed Pictures Of The Servos Mounted In the Stabs. www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=773195

My Nitroplanes 50CC Yak-54 Should Arrive Tomorrow!

Happy Flying: JP

ditchit
Mar 18, 2008, 03:21 AM
Thanks Yardbee. Did see that thread but my stabs are different. They are not hollow and so do not accomodate the servos. There are no holes in the side of the fuselage that are of a standard servo size so I'm still at a loss as to where they go. I'll post picture of the stabs tonite. Maybe I've been sent 120 size stabs but seems unlikely.

EDIT: Just been advised by manufacturer that the design has changed. Has not told me reason why yet. Servos are now supposed to be installed in fuselage contrary to the printed instructions. Problem is that the pre-cut holes in the fuselage are too long. Will take pics tonite and send to manufacturer. It's a shame because the stab install is a clean way of hiding the servos. Putting them on the side of the fuselage is a bit lazy.

Yardbee
Mar 18, 2008, 01:47 PM
Ditchit: Received My Yak-54 Today & The First Thing I Noticed Was That The Stabs Are Just Like Yours. I Held a Light Up to The Side Of the Fuselage & Noticed The 2 Pre-Cut Servo Holes Just Above the Rudder Cable Exit. The Pre-Cut Servo Holes Appear to Be Close to The Servo Size I'll Be Using. I Am Going to Test Fit The Servos & Let You Know How They Fit. I Was Really Looking Forward to Mounting the Servos In The Stabs As It Makes For a Much Cleaner Look!! Cheers: Joe

ditchit
Mar 18, 2008, 02:16 PM
Yup. Seems that way. I cut away the film with a soldering iron. All the precut holes are 40mm for standard size. Ordering my servos. Will fit hardware in next couple of days and fit my electric motor.

Yardbee
Mar 18, 2008, 02:34 PM
Ditchit: I Just Did The Same Thing & Glad We Both Found Out There Cut For Standard Sized Servos. I Am Going to Power The Yak With a Hyperion Z5045-18 Motor & 12 Cells. It Should Perform Really Well!! Good Luck With Your Yak.

Happy Flying: Joe

ditchit
Mar 18, 2008, 08:22 PM
Nice. Z50s good motor.

Having so many projects has forced me to go the economy route. Am powering mine with HXT 80-100-A 180Kv from Hobby City.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5139

Will start with 12 cells and see how it performs.

Yardbee
Mar 19, 2008, 04:06 AM
Hi Dichit: I Was Really Bummed When I Saw The Tunnel On the Bottom Of The Fuselage For The Canister Type Mufflers For a 50CC Motor. The Pictures On The Website Show a Different Design. I Am a Little Disappointed That The Manufacturer Changed The Design From the first Production Run. I Am Going to Add Some Stingers & a Bulkhead To Close the Tunnel Off. Cheers:Joe

ditchit
Mar 19, 2008, 04:39 AM
Tunnel may be good location for hanging the ESC or maybe even the lipos in the breeze me thinks. Create a simple shelf for the ESC to sit on and it'll never even warm up. Am going to try first with the Sentilon 110A 12S ESC but suspect with this motor I'll have to got for a Jeti 200A. What ESC you going with on your Z50? Titan HV? I doubt you will think of doing it but I did find that the Sentilon does not work with the Z50 motors. Timing problems. Best to stick with Hyperion all the way on the power system if you can.

Test pilot selected. The guy in the plane not the guy holding it. :rolleyes:

Just to add that I went for these servos. Again what I would consider bargain basement for a 15KG digital servo. Amazing how the price of some of this stuff has come down over the last 18 months but the strength of the Queen's pound could have somethnig to do with it.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6334

Model: HD-9150MG
Voltage: 4.5v~7.2v
Speed: .17sec
Torque: 15.8kg/cm
Bearings: 2BB
Gears: Metal
Weight: 60g
Size: 40x20x37mm

You got any planes for backup RX/servo power? regulators, batt share etc? Flying Spektrum TX/RX and want to avoid dreaded low voltage AR700 RX reset at all costs. Am going to research options this weekend but would be interested to hear what you are considering if anything.

Yardbee
Mar 19, 2008, 11:52 AM
Hello: Your Suggestion Of Placing the ESC & Or The Lipo's Is an Excellent Idea!! Ive Read That the Sentilon Is A Very Good ESC. I''ll Be Using a Castle Creations 110 HV ESC & 5 Towerhobbies T-S150 Servos (193) OZ Of Torque @ 6V. For My The Receiver Will Be a JR 9100 (2.4 Ghz) & a Dimension Engineering 6V Voltage Regulator. For My Receiver Power I"ll Be Using 2 2s 2500 Mah Packs. I Ordered a Set Of Carbon Fiber Landing Gear For The Aero-Works 50CC Yak-54 From Graph-Tech. The Picture Of The Yak Looks Very Nice & The Pilot Seems Ready To Fly!!! Take Care:Joe

Captain Carlton
Mar 21, 2008, 01:59 AM
Hi Guys...I just finished building a Extreme Flight Yak 54, and this kits has some striking similarities. (including the embedded elevator servo). The thread we used to build this plane is here:

http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/fg189/24956-88-extreme-flight-yak-electrified-build.html#post417336

ditchit
Mar 21, 2008, 10:00 AM
Yardbee and I have found that our kits have design change where the elevator servos are mounted on the side of the fuselage. Disappointed with this. For larger quality models you expect a bit more thought on design. What's even more ridiculous is that the instruction manual hasn't changed.

Chuck McHugh
Mar 21, 2008, 02:18 PM
Yardbee and I have found that our kits have design change where the elevator servos are mounted on the side of the fuselage. Disappointed with this. For larger quality models you expect a bit more thought on design. What's even more ridiculous is that the instruction manual hasn't changed.
Remember where you got it! I have quite a few Nitro models planes. Like GWS great price but you have to give up something. I have been watching this thread, might have to get one.
Chuck

Captain Carlton
Mar 22, 2008, 02:33 AM
Price is right. I would be very interested in your folks who get the kit...post individual weights on the component parts. It seems that Nitro Models is chasing QQ Yak 86, or the EF Yak 88, or the maybe the Aeroworks. It would be nice to figure out which design they "ripped off" :)

- Richard

ditchit
Mar 23, 2008, 07:14 AM
Problems encountered so far during build (but otherwise still happy with my purchase)

1. Missing horns
1a. Appears from instructions that horns have wood screws and do not have back plates. Very bad in my opinion.
2. Missing wheels
3. Missing throttle linkage (not that I need it)
4. Poor quality phenolic tubes
4a. Very tight on wing which maybe is a good thing
4b. On others they were rough and difficult to push into
4c. Pin hinge penetrated one tube and I didn't realise it until after I had glued it in. Nightmare to resolve.
5. Elevator servos are now on fuselage contrary to instructions which says they are in stabiliser.

So while I'm waiting for my digi servos and hardware to turn up I bolted on my motor and did some testing.

Initial test on 10S and APC 20.5x12 EW prop. Wood 20x12 and 20x12 APCe props on order. HXT 80-100-A 180Kv Brushless Outrunner.

33.99 Volts
61.2 Amps
2135 Watts
5520 Rpm
15lbs 11oz Thrust

Second test this morning on 12S and same APC 20.5x12 EW prop.

38.55 Volts
75.46 Amps
2909 Watts
6150 Rpm
22lbs 3oz Thrust

10S would appear to be fine for pattern flight but maybe 12S will be required for all out 3D.

Regarding previous post asking for weights of model parts. I've got another 2 kits and will weigh the parts tomorrow for your information but I would not condone accusation of copying just because the weights maybe similar.

DaveKan
Mar 23, 2008, 09:08 AM
Nice. Z50s good motor.

Having so many projects has forced me to go the economy route. Am powering mine with HXT 80-100-A 180Kv from Hobby City.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5139

Will start with 12 cells and see how it performs.

Hello ditchit

The big Hxt motor does have a problem with the way the prop nut
pulls on the shaft. It acts like a puller, and causes the bearings to get
very stiff. It would be better to drill the prop with 4 holes to match
the bolt circle of the front of the moter, and then use 4 longer cap screws
to hold the prop to the bell. Then use some blue Locktite on the big shaft
nut, but do not put this too tight, or the main shaft will put too much pre-
load on the bearings.
I think this motor can make a lot of power, because of its size.
It is around 1700 grams in weight, and has very strong magnetic field.

Good luck

Dave :)

ditchit
Mar 23, 2008, 09:34 AM
Thanks Dave. Appreciate the advice. I'm getting some wood props in the next few days and will drill a couple to the bolt pattern and attach as you suggest. Better safe than sorry.

Captain Carlton
Mar 24, 2008, 02:32 AM
Hey Ditchit,

Let me compare some notes with you here...it should help put some things in perspective.

Extreme Flight Yak 88" $650 (alot more)
The Horns are fantastic as is the hardware and hinges. (but an extra $350?). Your saving a lot of cash.

I am using the Hack A60-18L....28 OZ...which according to the Hobby City Site...is about half the weight of the HXT 80-100-A 180Kv. But you saved $150 too. :)

Hmmm...You definitely have the economical deal going here, but its a bit heavier...and you have to monkey with the hardware some.

But wow!!! Its a ton cheaper! I would love to see some flight reports!!!

Thanks for sharing the info.

- Richard

ditchit
Mar 24, 2008, 04:10 AM
Ah, but you are comparing the US prices. UK price for the EF Yak is 500GBP and that Hacker is 190GBP. Going for the Nitro Planes Yak and the HXT motor was even more of a no brainer based on that.

Captain Carlton
Mar 25, 2008, 01:16 AM
Yep...Duh...Your right. I didn't see your location. Yah...WAY cheaper!!! Well tell us how it flys.

ditchit
Mar 31, 2008, 08:40 AM
I am in dispute with the supplier at the moment. I am trying to tell him that the horns are missing but he won't have any of it. Tells me the design has changed! Does anyone have the new version of this Yak with the elevator servos on the fuselage? Can you send me or post a picture of the horns that came with your kit please.

ditchit
Mar 31, 2008, 06:00 PM
Problem solved. The new horns are actually bolts and not the regular twin steel triangular horns. Didn't spot them in the box because the instructions refer to something completely different.

Yardbee
Apr 02, 2008, 06:22 PM
Hi Dichit: Hows The Build Going? Have You Tried Out the HD-915MG Servos From Hobby City? Do You Know Which Brand Of Large Servo Arm Would Fit Them? JR Or Futaba Or Hitec? I Do Have 5 Tower Hobby 160 Oz Servos & Want to Get 5 More For The 30% Hyperion Yak-54 I Have Coming.

Best Regards: Joe

ditchit
Apr 03, 2008, 02:28 AM
Nope. Haven't tried the servos. Have installed them but was waiting for some SmartFly electronics so I can match the rudder and elevator servos.

Not overly keen on this whole arrangement with fitting the provided aluminium servo arm extensions over the plastic servo arms. I'll check when I get back home this afternoon if they are Futaba output shafts. If they are, think I may get some long aluminium servo arms are replacements.

Just to add that the closed loop hardware was very poor. The clevises did not fit the clevis adapters. The thread on 2 adapters did not bite on the clevises at all and the others simply pulled out when I was closing the loop for the first time. I gave up and called PeteTindal.co.uk for a complete new set. No point mucking around.

I'm away on holiday next week so temporary stall in progress but will hit it hard when I get back.

Yardbee
Apr 03, 2008, 03:19 AM
Hi Dichit: Thanks For The Info!! Ive Just Begun to Assemble My Yak. I Have The CF Landing Gear Mounted & Am Working On Mounting The Motor & Rounding Up All Of The Other Necessary Parts. I'll Be Using Sullivan Closed Loop Hardware & After Market 4-40 Push Rods & Clevises For The Rest Of The Controls. I Did Order The Same HXT Motor & A Sentilon 100 Amp ESC from Hobbycity That You Have On Your Yak. I'll Be Using That Motor On Another 30% Yak I Have. Thanks for The Info On The Servos & Hopefully The Futaba Arms Will Fit. Have a Nice Holiday!! :)

ditchit
Apr 03, 2008, 03:26 AM
Thanks mate. Another gotcha. The blind nuts to secure the stabilisers were either bad (could not screw in bolts) or were not lined up. I had to cut out some film on one side so I could get to them, push them out and replace them. Another hastle but for the money these things are expected I guess.

Yardbee
Apr 03, 2008, 05:46 AM
Hi Dichit: Thanks For All Of The Valuable Info & For The Heads Up Of All the Gotcha's Of This Yak!! I'll Try Running a Tap Through The Blind Nuts First & Hopefully It Will Cleanup & The Stabs Will Line Up. Sure Hope This Yak Flies Good!! Thanks Again! Cheers: Joe :cool:

ditchit
Apr 12, 2008, 04:03 AM
Back from holiday and it's not flying weather this week so will push forward on this project. Joe - FYI one of my HD-915MG servos was bad. Bit disappointing. I'll have to go with one servo on rudder until replacement arrives. You made any progress?

Yardbee
Apr 12, 2008, 04:45 AM
Howdy Ditchit: Hope You Had a Nice Holiday!! Sorry to Hear About 1 Of The HD-915Mg Servos Being Bad Hopefully 1 Servo Will Get You By. I Finally Rounded Up All The Necessary Hardware & Accessories to Press Forward On The Build. Not Having a Large Enough Workbench Was Holding Me Up! I Ordered a Midwest Superstand To Continue the Build. I Ordered the HXT 80-100-A Motor You Have Mounted On Your Yak For an 33% SD-Models Yak-54 Iam Picking Up Next Week. Your Yak Will Have All The Power It Will Ever Need! Ive Never Seen Such a Huge Motor!! I Picked Up a HXT-6374 200KV Motor & Was Going to Experiment With It On The Nitroplanes Yak, According to the Specs With 10 Cells @ 85 Amps It Should Be Producing Over 3000 Watts. I Am Hoping It Will Be Sufficient Power To Do Basic Pattern Type Flying. I Am Planning to Use The Hyperion Z5045-18 for My Hyperion Yak-54 180E. Glad To See Your Back & Look Foward to Keeping The Thread Going!! Have Fun & Good Luck. I'll Keep The Post's Coming! Cheers: Joe

drstillpatient
Apr 12, 2008, 11:05 AM
. I Am Planning to Use The Hyperion Z5045-18 for My Hyperion Yak-54 180E. Glad To See Your Back & Look Foward to Keeping The Thread Going!! Have Fun & Good Luck. I'll Keep The Post's Coming! Cheers: Joe

Hey yardbee...i'm also building the Hyperion Yak-54 180e. Also using the Hyperion Z5045-18. They recommend 12S li-po for it. You think a 10S li-po set up will work with 3Ding power on that motor?

Yardbee
Apr 12, 2008, 11:43 PM
DRSTILLPATIENT: I"ll be Using The Recommended 12S Setup & The 22 X10 Prop Which Should Yield Approximately 3000 Watts. With 10S Setup I Would Start Out With A Slightly Larger Prop (24 X 10) to Maintain the Rpms. If You Can Achieve The Max Wattage You Should Be Able to 3d The Yak. I'll Do A Calculation On Motocalc & Post The Results.

Cheers: JP :)

Yardbee
Apr 13, 2008, 01:51 AM
drstillpatient: I Ran the Specs for 10S Through Motocalc & Your Best Performance On 10S Show That Running a 26 X 10 Prop Would Yield 502.8 Ozs Of Thrust & 4,746 Propeller RPM. If Your Yak Weighs 16Lbs (256) Ozs @ Almost 200 Watts Per LB, Your YAK Should Perform 3D Maneuvers Very Well Good Luck With The Build: Cheers: Joe

drstillpatient
Apr 14, 2008, 06:03 AM
drstillpatient: I Ran the Specs for 10S Through Motocalc & Your Best Performance On 10S Show That Running a 26 X 10 Prop Would Yield 502.8 Ozs Of Thrust & 4,746 Propeller RPM. If Your Yak Weighs 16Lbs (256) Ozs @ Almost 200 Watts Per LB, Your YAK Should Perform 3D Maneuvers Very Well Good Luck With The Build: Cheers: Joe

Yardbee, thanks for running those numbers and posting them!

I may be going OT since this thread is for the Nitro Models Yak so i am sending you PM on my thoughts on the power system for the Hyperion Yak. :)

ditchit
Apr 17, 2008, 03:46 PM
Almost done on my build. Has gone fairly well. Only replaced the closed loop rudder system with a Pete Tindal set as what was provided was a little poor. Maiden flight probably not until next week due to weather.

ditchit
Apr 18, 2008, 02:26 PM
Packs fitted and would you believe the CG was on the money. 164mm from leading edge. Whatta stroke of luck. No need to move anything.

mpope1
Apr 18, 2008, 07:00 PM
Looks nice, I have the 69" version, and it has a fiberglass tube I am surprised yours doesn't. These 2 planes are almost identical(except for the size), great deal at $299. Mine flies real nice, and mine balanced with the packs in the same spot(2 5s 5000"s) I also use a 2s 2000 with a regulator for receiver voltage.

sun.flyer
Apr 18, 2008, 09:42 PM
Packs fitted and would you believe the CG was on the money. 164mm from leading edge. Whatta stroke of luck. No need to move anything.


Not suprising really on the cardboard wing tube. Many GS airplanes use this setup. It shouldn't pose a problem really.

Tim

ditchit
Apr 20, 2008, 12:33 PM
Maiden flight today. Nothing to exciting in terms of aerobatics but on 12S it felt I had the power needed for some full on 3D. Trimmed out and tested stall. Several low passes as had to judge landing speed carefully. We operate from quite a small strip. Seemed like a carrier landing with this size model. Practice will make perfect. This setup proves that those of us who cant afford the expensive Plettenburg and Hacker motors and Jeti speed controllers can convert a 50cc model to electric and get good performance.

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=ia20AaEjFg8

ditchit
Apr 22, 2008, 01:47 PM
Sequence of pictures taken by Patrick, an ex-professional photographer who will be joining our club in the next few weeks.

bradbxyz
Apr 30, 2008, 04:43 PM
How has the motor been holding up for you Ditchit?
I installed the same motor about a week ago in a 1/3 scale clipped wing cub - running 24x8 on 10s. LOTS of power, but on the second flight it lost a ring which seems to have been used to align the magnets with the back of the bell upon assembly. Motor got REAL tight, and the CC 110HV smoked. I took that ring out, which freed the motor up, and tried another flight last night - did good for about 4 minutes, then started to screech. I saved the controller this time by shutting down immediately and setting down ( SO THAT IS 66.6% DEADSTICK LANDINGS SO FAR...). Now the motor is difficult to turn again. No damage to the plane, but I am holding my breath to see how hobby city stands by their 12 month warranty. I am going to disassemble the motor tonight and send them some pics - then we"ll see

Brad

ditchit
Apr 30, 2008, 05:11 PM
Yup...had problem with mine Brad. Not sure what it is as haven't had time to inspect it. I lost power and got the Yak down but took out the L/G which caused quite a bit of damage to the underside of the fuselage. Mostly repaired now and I'm going to try the second of these motors that I got. I'll dismantle the first motor in the next few days and report back. At the moment I think it's a detached magnet. Sorry to hear you've had a problem as well. Beautiful bird though mate.

Yardbee
May 01, 2008, 01:30 PM
Hi Dictchit: I Ordered the 80-110-B-130 KV Model from Hobbycity for My 33% Yak, I Am Somewhat Surprised :eek: that Your Motor Only Lasted a Few Flights. Hopefully Hobbycity Will Honor Their Guarantee. :)

ditchit
May 01, 2008, 02:46 PM
Took the motor apart. Not sure if any of the magnets are lose but you can see that the top of the bearing has come off. The 2 round pieces were on the shaft when I took it apart. Looks broke to me. What do you guys reckon?

Get Real
May 01, 2008, 03:23 PM
Ive never flown motors that size or planes that big,id check the bearings for intenal wear.. ie any metal shavings,deformity of bearings etc. The clip and seal are to prevent dust etc from getting in that came off... excessive binding or heat might have something to do with that and could also heat up the esc causing momentary loss of power to the motor etc. The seals dont have to be on imo.. we use to take the seals off in offroad use for internal tranny areas etc.

Yardbee
May 01, 2008, 03:41 PM
Might Be Worth a Try to Run The Motor Without the Bearing Dust Cover! JP

Jeffery
May 01, 2008, 03:48 PM
Took the motor apart. Not sure if any of the magnets are lose but you can see that the top of the bearing has come off. The 2 round pieces were on the shaft when I took it apart. Looks broke to me. What do you guys reckon?


I'd go ahead and take the bearings out and replace them with some good bearings. Metric bearings are pretty standard in their sizing, I don't think you'd have any trouble finding replacements.

That would surely void your warranty, but even if they honored the warranty, you'd get another motor with the same bearings in it.

If everything else looks OK - no burnt looking wires or shiny wear spots - I'd think the motor would probably run again.

karl k
May 01, 2008, 06:45 PM
Checking for shorts from the windings to the stator would be a good idea at this point.

Could save you an ESC.

Karl

Get Real
May 01, 2008, 11:07 PM
Ive always been curious about some of the lower priced power systems etc,its nice to think you could get into a larger scale plane at half the price for the power system and plane but you buy cheap you usually buy twice. Thats a big investment to chance with some faulty equipment etc. I read some of the feedback on the motor on the site,one reviewer posted that a set screw had backed out and caused some squeeling and binding in the motor(but it was fine after he fixed it),i always go over new motors.. check for slop for and aft in the endbell,check all set screws then add loc tite and torque them down good again. You do have some bench marks prior to the motor failure that you could compare to.. short static tests on the ground might not of had the same effect of a full flight(there could of been binding from the start) some ground tests on the wattmeter should give you some answers if it does seem to be only the bearings,the windings etc would probally show some signs of shorting etc.. smell,discoloration,excessive heat and sound from the motor and a hot speed controller.. better to check it on the ground where you can shut it down quickly without losing the plane. Hope this has a good outcome,id like to get into something larger in the future without breaking the bank to :D .

ditchit
May 26, 2008, 08:49 AM
I re-motored the plane with a Hacker A60-18L on 12S5000 and 22 x 12 APCe after both my Turnigy motors failed. Bearing failures I think. Have sent them back and should get refund as others have had same problem. A60 performs perfect although is little warm for my liking when I land. Fairly sure it's not a cooling issue. Not 3D power so I'm looking to get an A80-10 when they become available.

Issue today as was beginning to explore some 3D moves. Flat spins were really nice. Started high. Tried a 'wall' and result was nearly disasterous. Bent the stock aluminium wing tube by about 15-20 degrees. Made perfect landing straight away. I think the dihedreal helped a lot. :rolleyes:

It's a lesson for all I think. Carbon wing tubes are definitley the way to go. Will order mine on Tuesday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBE72ZoqGcA

ditchit
May 26, 2008, 08:53 AM
oops

drstillpatient
May 26, 2008, 12:45 PM
Ditchit, that motor will spin a 24x10 prop with no issues. You'll get your 3D power then without having to change the motor.

ditchit
May 26, 2008, 03:54 PM
Cool. OK...I'll give it a go. Just have to find someone selling 24 x 10 APCe props over here in the UK. Cheers.

Jeffery
May 26, 2008, 04:01 PM
A lot of people are running the 24X12 APCE, as well as some going up to 25" props, on that motor.

ditchit
May 26, 2008, 04:11 PM
On 12S? I'm a bit nervous of going over spec on the amps / watts on such a nice motor.

On 12S5000 and 22 x 12 APCe I get these numbers which are on max spec of the motor.

42.24 Volts
61.39 Amps
2593 Watts
5670 RPM

I guess some are presuming the max spec is conservative.

Jeffery
May 26, 2008, 04:15 PM
You have to. I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong, but guys are pulling at least 30A over the recommended max to get 3D performance out of this motor, and it seems to handle it with no problems. Just limit the 30A over bursts to a few seconds and go for it.

edible_engine
May 27, 2008, 06:45 AM
No problems drawing more than hackers spec, he does under rate them. I regularly pull 2.7kW from his 1.7kW C50 motors. that motor i say 3.5kW would be no problem :)

Ian

drstillpatient
May 27, 2008, 11:51 AM
On 12S? I'm a bit nervous of going over spec on the amps / watts on such a nice motor.

On 12S5000 and 22 x 12 APCe I get these numbers which are on max spec of the motor.

42.24 Volts
61.39 Amps
2593 Watts
5670 RPM

I guess some are presuming the max spec is conservative.

Yup, thats on 12S. infact 24x12 APC-e is more or less the preferred prop on that motor with Hacker understating that motor's max specs. I suggested the 24x10e instead so you'll not push the motor too much at all. Let us know the results whichever prop you choose. Cheers

ditchit
May 27, 2008, 03:11 PM
Well...I shopped around and cheapest for 24x12 APCe is 21GBP in the UK. So I got hold of a 24x10 Bambula for less than half that price. Don't know what the difference is between an APCe and a wood prop like this in performance but here are my numbers on 12S.

43.51 Volts
64.7 Amps
2819 Watts
5490 Rpm
22 Lbs thrust

The 22x12 APCe gave me this.

42.24 Volts
61.39 Amps
2593 Watts
5670 RPM
? Lbs thrust (not measured)

I'll try this first but what I dislike is that the wood prop has double the thickness hub of an equivalent APCe. No chance of getting a spinner on. Can only just get the prop washer and nut on comfortably. I guess that's the price I'll have to pay if I go this route.

drstillpatient
May 28, 2008, 01:06 AM
Well...I shopped around and cheapest for 24x12 APCe is 21GBP in the UK. So I got hold of a 24x10 Bambula for less than half that price. Don't know what the difference is between an APCe and a wood prop like this in performance but here are my numbers on 12S.

43.51 Volts
64.7 Amps
2819 Watts
5490 Rpm
22 Lbs thrust

The 22x12 APCe gave me this.

42.24 Volts
61.39 Amps
2593 Watts
5670 RPM
? Lbs thrust (not measured)

I'll try this first but what I dislike is that the wood prop has double the thickness hub of an equivalent APCe. No chance of getting a spinner on. Can only just get the prop washer and nut on comfortably. I guess that's the price I'll have to pay if I go this route.


Those numbers on 24x12 Bambula seem low. Is that a gas prop? You should have close to or over 3500 watts going in with that combo. Anyhow, the real test would be flying it. good luck

ditchit
May 28, 2008, 01:50 AM
Yup...that's a gas prop. I'll do the test again and make totally sure the packs are fresh off the charger.

edible_engine
May 28, 2008, 05:13 AM
worth getting the 24x12 E, that 2" more prop pitch will make a big difference.

Any FlightTech dealer can get the prop in for you, i believe that they arrived this very morning

Ian

ditchit
May 28, 2008, 05:36 AM
Thanks Ian. West London Models seemed to have best price. I'll pop in and see them tomorrow. Cheers.

ditchit
May 28, 2008, 01:39 PM
I tested again with my 24x12 Bambula, got the same 3KW results. Here's a question. I'm using a Turnigy 100A ESC from HobbyCity. Obviously this isn't close to the quality of a Hacker Spin 99 but it's about 20% of the price which makes it kind of a compelling purchase. Question is could this ESC impact the power I get? If I used a Hacker ESC would I get more power? There would have to be a definite advantage for me to spend 230 pounds on a Spin 99. In reality I'd probably got for a Spin 200 because I know I'll get the A80 in the not too distant future.

drstillpatient
May 28, 2008, 01:50 PM
I tested again with my 24x12 Bambula, got the same 3KW results. Here's a question. I'm using a Turnigy 100A ESC from HobbyCity. Obviously this isn't close to the quality of a Hacker Spin 99 but it's about 20% of the price which makes it kind of a compelling purchase. Question is could this ESC impact the power I get? If I used a Hacker ESC would I get more power? There would have to be a definite advantage for me to spend 230 pounds on a Spin 99. In reality I'd probably got for a Spin 200 because I know I'll get the A80 in the not too distant future.

I dont know for sure if a particular brand of ESC creates more power for a motor compared to another brand of ESC. When you do get the APCe prop you probably will get different power numbers. Like i said, its the flying that'll really tell you the difference. Have you had a chance to fly the Bambula prop? Cheers

ditchit
May 28, 2008, 02:23 PM
Won't get a chance until Friday and even then weather looks not too promising. Will get it in the air as soon as poss.

edible_engine
May 29, 2008, 04:22 AM
the Spin 220 is way over the top. i am using this to power a 100cc electric conversion on the A150.

they have a new Spin 170 out soon, really cool bit of kit, about half the weight, and perfect for the A80 and A100 setups

Ian

karl k
May 31, 2008, 10:30 AM
Is the Bambula prop meant for gas or glow engines?

Karl

ditchit
May 31, 2008, 10:42 AM
Fairly sure it's meant for gas. It's half the price of the APCe so it was compelling to buy it. I used it today and it worked really well. I'm getting about 3KW with it on the A60. Good for hover but not great for pull out. Very good for landing. The 24" disc created by the prop at lowest RPM really helps to land on our small patch. Unfortunatley today I was just getting the hang of rolling harriers, lower and lower, until I was really on the deck and on second rotation blipped the throttle and my Turnigy ESC didn't supply the power. No time to reset to zero so hard landing. Repairable but annoying. Gonna get a Spin 99 next week probably. Enough mucking around with cheapo ESCs. Would be OK for a pattern plane but not when you gotta have 110% reliability on the throttle.

Yardbee
Sep 12, 2008, 06:58 PM
Ready For Maiden: Finally Finished It!!! Here's a List Of the On Board Equipment.

Suppo A7035/9 Motor
Zoar 24 x 10 Prop
Turnigy Sentilon 100 Amp ESC
5 TS-150 Servos @ 193 Oz's Torque
2 6S 5000 Mah Lipo Packs
Graph-Tech Carbon Fiber Gear (Aero-Works) Yak-54 50CC

The Hardware Package that Came With the Kit Was Pretty Much Un-Usable!! I Used All New Control Horns & Everything Else. I Don't Have a Scale Big Enough To Get The Overall Weight. Preliminary Motor Test Showed 3674 Watts @ 73.3 Amps. I'll Post the Results Of the Maiden!!

Cheers: Joe

minitelemaster
Sep 12, 2008, 07:28 PM
Sweet! What brand lipos are you using? (I'm on budget electronics too, gotta love that turnigy esc!)

Yardbee
Sep 12, 2008, 09:41 PM
Howdy!! I Am Using 2 Zippy (20-30C) 6S 1P Lipo's From Hobby City!!!! Excellent Value & They Hold Voltage & Current Relatively Constant. Hoping to Maiden Tomorrow!!

Happy Flying: Joe :)

ditchit
Sep 13, 2008, 03:45 AM
Well done Joe. Best of luck for the maiden. You're going to love it. Particularly interested in how that motor works out. More details would be good (i.e. supplier/price). I'm still waiting for a Hacker A80.

Yardbee
Sep 13, 2008, 04:40 AM
Hello Ditchit: Thank You!!! :) I Purchased The Suppo From www.rchotdeals.com For $150.00 USD. According to the Manufacturer Specs It's capable Of 120 Amps Max for 60s On 12S. I'll let You Know How the Maiden Goes. Ive Watched Your Video Many Times Over & Am Very Pleased How Yours Flies!!!

Take Care: Joe :)

ditchit
Sep 13, 2008, 01:05 PM
Just make sure your prop is nicely balanced. From experience some of these outrunners cant deal with vibration that well. You shouldn't need to full throttle it much of the time anyway on a 12S system. Expecting a post-maiden flight report (and video?)...

Yardbee
Sep 14, 2008, 05:46 AM
Sucessful Maiden!! :) The Maiden Went Off Without a Hitch!! Takeoff Was very Smooth & Plenty Of Power!! Only 2 Clicks Of Up Trim & No Other Trim Was Needed. Flew Around @ Half Power For Most Of the Flight & Did a Few Zoomie Fly By's & 3 Rolls. Made 2 Circuits to Feel Things Out & Touched Down Nice & Smooth On the 3rd Circuit. This Is the First Big Scale Airplane Ive Ever Flown & Am Very Surprised & How Stable & Easy It Flies. Unfortunately I Do Not Have a Video Camera. If I Can Round One Up I'll Get Some Flying Video. A Really Nice Yak for the Money!! :D

Happy Flying: Joe :)

ditchit
Sep 14, 2008, 01:57 PM
Excellent news Joe. Glad I am not the only punter who thinks that you don't have to spend Extreme Flight, Composite ARF, or Krill type money to fly models at this level. Keep us up to date and subsequent flights and how that motor performs.

drstillpatient
Sep 15, 2008, 01:31 AM
Sucessful Maiden!! :) The Maiden Went Off Without a Hitch!! Takeoff Was very Smooth & Plenty Of Power!! Only 2 Clicks Of Up Trim & No Other Trim Was Needed. Flew Around @ Half Power For Most Of the Flight & Did a Few Zoomie Fly By's & 3 Rolls. Made 2 Circuits to Feel Things Out & Touched Down Nice & Smooth On the 3rd Circuit. This Is the First Big Scale Airplane Ive Ever Flown & Am Very Surprised & How Stable & Easy It Flies. Unfortunately I Do Not Have a Video Camera. If I Can Round One Up I'll Get Some Flying Video. A Really Nice Yak for the Money!! :D

Happy Flying: Joe :)

Joe, what flight times are you getting so far with your setup?

Yardbee
Sep 15, 2008, 01:46 AM
I Am Averaging 8 Minutes Of Flying Time And Allowing a Few Minutes Of Reserve Just In Case I Need To Make a Few Go Arounds. I Recommend Replacing the 2 Piece landing Gear With a Single Piece. I Also Beefed Up the landing Gear Plate By Adding A 1/4 Birch Ply Doubler to the Exsisting Landing Gear Plate Mount & Gussets On the Forward & Aft Bulkheads In The Gear Box On Top Of The New Gear Plate Doubler. Overall Its a Very Nice Flying Machine. :)

Happy Flying: Joe

Finally Got Around & Put a Few Decals On to Dress It Up!!

ditchit
Apr 27, 2009, 01:46 PM
Still flying my Yak on the Hacker A80 and loving it. Getting more confident and better every weekend I fly it. The one thing I hate about this model is the crappy cardboard tubes in the wings and fuselage that the wing joiner slides through. They tear very easy. For another 50c they could have done something a lot better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MusziRX8qvQ

ditchit
May 11, 2009, 08:28 AM
Practicing harriering and hovering at the weekend. Had definitley lost my mojo. Too much flying the day before I think. Anyways last flight of the day and I got into this...

...can you believe I got away with it unscathed. Tough model this one.

http://claregrace.brinkster.net/rc/yakCloseCall.jpg

Full video including that moment towards the end...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnHv9p_Fpbo

roboto65
May 11, 2009, 09:18 AM
She flys great man that Hacker sure sounds good well no sound that is LOL. Makes me want to spend the 700 on a Hacker LOL Wonder if they have payment plans :rolleyes:

flyracer
May 11, 2009, 12:43 PM
Ditchit
Excellent videos..... I'm now tempted to try and move to an 88" electric.


-Flyracer

Airgeek
May 14, 2009, 09:47 PM
GREAT VIDEOS ! ! !

I am flying the Hyperion 88" YAK 54 with the Hyperion motor and 90 A ESC. Flies like a foamie on 12 cells. Hyperion has the G3 series LiPos with a 65 C discharge and 5C charge rate ! ! I charge my 2 - 22 V 3700ma packs in about 30 minutes - Look at Hyperion if you want a super good low priced 50cc size electric ! ! !! I'm sold ! ! !

Airgeek

ditchit
May 25, 2009, 04:39 AM
Blessed with some great weather the last couple of days in the UK...so was out hanging the Yak...too much fun....

http://claregrace.brinkster.net/rc/20090524_04.JPG
http://claregrace.brinkster.net/rc/20090524_06.JPG
http://claregrace.brinkster.net/rc/20090524_07.JPG