Swift 620se build & questions

[oldeflyer]

Finally got my kit and need help. Posted the first question this morning in a different thread. About notchy grips on the head. Found some more comments on that in other threads too..
Figured I would get all my questions in one thread, maybe help someone else out too.

First, where should I start with the washout guide to get the correct phase angle? Right not I have it lined up with the slots at the bottom of the heah block.

Doesn't the ball link for the A arm need a threaded rod? It is shown two places and neither shows a rod.

I got two extra? spacers, look like 3mm ID. Anybody else get extra parts? If not, where do these go?

I'm only on page 9 and already I'm stumped. :rolleyes: I figured since this was my third build I'd have NO problem. NOT! :p
Any help greatly appreciated.

[Fred Bronk]

Not sure about the phase angle question. The entire head should be level dead center.

Spacers are used both on the upper frame to clear the swash linkage from the cyclic bellcranks as well as on the Bellcranks to clear the frame.

Yes, the A arm needs a short threaded rod to attach the link to. I had to cut mine down a little on the 550.

FB

[oldeflyer]

You will LOVE this! Nifty design.
The A frame on the 620 has a blind hole in it the size of the OD of a ball link. At the bottom of the hole another, smaller threaded hole was made. A screw was put in from the opposite side of the hole from where the ball link goes, making a post in the hole. The ball link goes in the hole and then screws onto the post made by the screw. I hope I described this so it is meaningful. After I put the magnifying glass on this it was obvious there were no threads in the hole, so I looked closer. Clever.

Fred,
Thanks for the reply.
the part that slides over the shaft and up against the bottom of the head block (washout guide), doesn't have anything to index it with. I had just read an article in RCHELI about phase angle and knew that this was WHY this was not indexed (so it could be rotated CCW otr CW), but there was no indication given as to where it needs to go to start. Since the build diagram showed it aligned with the head block slots, that's where I put it. Just wondered if that was the right place to start.

Those extra spacers came in the bag with the flybar stuff. I thought they might be extra but you make a good point. Maybe they are needed elsewhere. The Bell mixer spacers were with the Bell mixers and the bellcrank's bag had spacers AND washers, so no problem there.

[Greybird]

oldeflyer, I have been eyeing that heli. I want one. Post some pictures of the build.

[oldeflyer]

Put the fromt part of the frame together. Some minor fileing on the slots and the pieces fit nice and snug.
Another question and some observations.

When you put the bellcrank 'ears' on the 'A' arm, do you line it up perpendicular to the base of the 'A' arm?

I have found:
The manual is wrong for the bolt length to use on the front motor mount plate hole. It calls for 12mm but there are two 6mm cap screws in the bag that should be used there. If you try and use a 12mm it will bottom out before it gets to the carbon.
There are three sizes of ALU spacers in the frame bag; six medium, two long and two short. The six medium go on the upper brg support plate. It is not shown, but the big ones go on the lower rear mtr mount plate with the 14 mm bolt. Haven't found a home for the small ones yet :rolleyes:
The braces and the four rear mtr mnt plate threaded holes should be chased as they are really tight at the end of the hole. You can get by with just threading them in, but the end turns will be very tight. If you are using a 3mm tap for chasing the threaded holes, might as well start the lower brg mount holes, too. Either that or chamfer the holes in the plastic to help the cap screws start making the thread.
If you put the brg from the one-way gear in the mtr mount before you put it on the frame it will be easier to get in. That sucker is tight and it needs to be well seated.

Too much information?

[Greybird]

Pictures?

[oldeflyer]

Hey, Grey,
I will get some pics after I get the other side on the frame. All I have is the head/grips and main shaft. Not too exciting.

[oldeflyer]

Pics....but I can't take pictures worth a darn! :) Need to learn how to do macro zoom on this Cybershot too.
I put the cap screws in with the washers only where I don't need to locktite. Everything is just snug until I make sure the shaft alignment is good. Then I will take out the cap screws, locktite them and put them back with the silver washers. That way I know when I have got them all. Put the el servo holder in just for fit. That head is massive!
Put the A frame bellcrank tabs all the way into the A frame base. It has about 1/6 inch side-to-side play. I think I should slide it over on the shaft from the frame base to make it snug on the outer bearings.

[Greybird]

Hey!! Nice pics. Keep them coming...

[oldeflyer]

I think I figured how to do close ups. This of the gap on the A frame shaft. Gap is to the far left of the spacer. I think sliding the bellcrank piece over to the left is all I need.
I want to be building but playing with this camera got me sidetracked. :D
Late news edit: The detail on a page further back in the manual says to move this over to the bearing. Who knew? And I read this manual over before I started. :o

[DaySpeed]

Looking forward to this thread too. Nice pictures !

[oldeflyer]

Moved the A frame bellcrank over and it works very nicely. It wasn't very hard to get at the three setscrews. It would be a good idea to put a match mark on the bellcrank piece and the A arm base while you can look at it from the side before it goes in. That way, when you need to line it up after moving it in the frame, it will be easier to get perpendicular. There is no good hole in the frame to see it to get it lined up easily.

[oldeflyer]

Put the LG on so I could get at the frame bolts easier. Stuck the shaft in there to get good alignment and redid all the frame bols with the washers and Blu Loctite. Glad I used the waher/no washer system, because I was called away before I finished and couldn't recall which bolt I did last. If it didn't have a washer, it needed done.
This thng looks like it definitely has some forward rake to it. I double checked my placements, but the one side picture clearly shows the forward lean.

Question:
There is a very skinny bearing that the one-way housing slides into. When I put this unit in the mtr mnt/brg holder, the one-way housing fell out of the brg when I turned it over to bolt it in It appears that this is not a press fit or very tight. Should this be removable? The part (CNE510B) is sold as a unit. If you look at it, you can see the outer brg stacked on top.

If there is a close-up you want, sing out :p

[Greybird]

I don't know the answer to the question, but, that heli is looking good! Did you get the notchiness in the grips fixed yet?

[Greybird]

Since that machine is all-the-bling, you will need to order a couple of more parts. What the heck, it's only money.....( I think only $75 or so for these parts)

[oldeflyer]

I think that one on the top row comes metal in the kit. It is black anodized/painted. Seesaw?
Thought about the tail grips, still haven't decided. Read on here someone said to put it together the way it comes and if something is not good, THEN replace it. Sounds good to me.
No, I haven't got the main grips broken back down yet. I was going to get the tail boom/belt/transmission done and then go revisit the head. Got to set up the flybar and such.

[Greybird]

Hehe.. Just messing with you. I bought all the bling. I am still debating on getting a 550 to put it on.

[laughingstill]

Oldeflyer
Take the dampeners and put them in the head. Trim them with a SHARP razor knife to be flush with the headblock. Then take the spacer that goes between the grips and the headblock (the brass looking one) and shave .5mm off of it. Once you do these things, the head will be smooth as silk.....Ron

[oldeflyer]

Ron,
No brass looking part. I have the dampner, the flanged spacer, the bearings that came installed in the grip, flat washer, thrust bearing inner race, thrust bearing, thrust bearing outer race, bolt washer and the bolt. That is the line up from in to out.
Are you talking about this part?
Included two of the dampner, which doesn't stick out enoght to cut any off.

[oldeflyer]

Emailed Century about the autorotation hub and bearing. We'll see what they say.

[laughingstill]

Yes the part in the first pic is the one. If you shave off the little step in the front, That will be enough. They may have changed the dampeners since mine. As long as they are flush with the head, they will be fine......Ron

[mysticmead]

finless has build videos on the e620SE

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=33055

[Cyclick]

Mysticmaid

I don't think Finless has done a video on the Century Swift 620SE. The one you linked is the much heavier and lower speced TT 620 electric.

[P-38J-Lightning]

Mysticmaid

I don't think Finless has done a video on the Century Swift 620SE. The one you linked is the much heavier and lower speced TT 620 electric.
Lower speced with what? :confused:

Joel :D

[mysticmead]

Mysticmaid

I don't think Finless has done a video on the Century Swift 620SE. The one you linked is the much heavier and lower speced TT 620 electric.

you're correct.. sorry for my confusion...

btw.. it's MysticMEAD.. not mysticMAID :D

[oldeflyer]

Some new items:
The main grip notchy feel is definitely from the inner grip radial bearings. When I took the grips back off, I spun the bearings by hand and they are toast. Just assembling the head per the manual and tightening the feathering shafts bolts was enough to mess them up. The outer ones are ok.
Ron, don't really want to cut the reduced portion of that spacer off? That is where the inner grip bearing inner race rides. Still haven't decided what to do about that problem. Definitely need new bearings, though.

Moved onto the tail. Put the transmission together, no surprises. When I got to the tail grips I noticed a strange thing. There is a RADIAL bearing OUTSIDE the thrust bearing. That means the outermost bearing will be getting alot of side load. I always thought the thrust bearing would be at the end of the force. Maybe that is why it is not a sealed bearing? I laid the parts out and took a picture.

[Greybird]

I am not sure why the bearings are like that. My all aluminum one is the same. Don't rule out my little washer's for the head. problem. I can't believe those bearings are ruined. The Century bearings seem to be high quality. Did you really cinch down on the bolts?

[oldeflyer]

Greybird, no excessive force, just till tight. With Locktit that should be all you need. The outer bearings are smooth with no indications of flat spots, so I know that the inner ones are bad.

On the tail diagram in the manual, there are two problems.

The upper bearing for the Tail Pitch Lever is mislabled. It should be the same as the lower beearing.

The area of the diagram showing the Tail Shaft is missing two spacers. They are in the kit, just not shown. I put it together initially like the diagram and it looked odd (see picture). The part labeled as a shim in case of free play made me think there was more to it than what was shown. There were two spacers in the tail assembly bag that were unused so I tried them. Bang! Now the shaft fits great (see picture).
The fit on these tail assembly parts is really good.

[oldeflyer]

The inner grip bearings have been replaced. The new ones are as smooth as the outer ones. Also got replacement spacers. They were brass and measured 0.05 mm smaller than the ones in the kit. They almost work as is but as I slowly tighten the grip bols you can feel them start to side load and get rough. If I had a good way to accurately remove some metal from the fat part of the spacers I would, since that introduces the least amount of complexity. I believe I will go with Greybird's fix to get 0.5mm washers and effectively make the shaft longer.

[Greybird]

Oldeflyer,1mm thick. I just assembled my rotor head yesterday with threadlock, and grease. It is very smooth. I am waiting for a metal see-saw part to come in, before installing it.

[oldeflyer]

Greybird,
Just happened to have a 16 feathering shaft, washer and bolt spare. Measured the shaft and it is 0.05mm longer than the steel one. The washers are 0.02mm smaller than the 620 ones. Since the spacers I got with the bearings (brass) are 0.05mm smaller, that gives an overall change of 0.14mm on the grip assembly. I figured what the heck, it's all part anyway, and assembled the head using the 16 parts (except the grips, bearings and dampners). Slowly tightened the bolts and kept checking the rotation. Got the screws tight and NO binding and no slop. Who would have thought that that little bit would make that much difference. This head has got some tight tolerances.

Something else that was goofy. When I was trying to get the dampners back in the second one kept popping out. :rolleyes:
I had put one of those buttons in the top screw hole on the head and it was holding the air in and keeping the dampner from going in. :eek:
Bizarre, but interesting, too. Who knew?

[Greybird]

Is that the aluminum shaft? That is why I did not want to grind those spacers. My next feathering shaft might be the right size. I have 2 steel ones. They are exactly the same length, 87.15mm

[oldeflyer]

Yes, the Alu. shaft. It measrued 87.20mm.
When I was trying to get the steel shaft out, the nylon bushing in the center of the shaft came off. The dampners were tight in the head and they just pushed the bushing along. It was a royal pain to get back on. It sits in a very shallow grove in the center of the shaft, so it's inner dia. is just a little smaller than the shaft.

[Greybird]

I have done battle with that bushing also.

[oldeflyer]

Hit a small snag. Thought I had some link balls for the servo arms but they are not the right size. Have to find some. The 600N balls with 2mm nuts look good.
I measured the bell crank balls center to center and it was 26.6. Tha means that the servo arms one-side can't be 12.5mm as the manual calls for. Should be more like 13mm or so. The servo arms that came with the Futaba servos don't have holes there. Now to find some servo arms, too. :rolleyes:

Refined the measure for the bell crank. 25mm center to center. Old eyes and bad technique.

[Greybird]

I used the big wheels.

[oldeflyer]

Thought about the big wheels, they go out past 15mm. Did you carve away the excess?

[Greybird]

No. I thought it would look sloppy.

[oldeflyer]

What is the best way to mount the servos in the carbon frame? It says to use the self tapping screws, but it didn't come with the mount blocks like the 16 did. Just screw them into the frame?
Does anyone use the rubber mounting pads in the servo ear's holes?

[Greybird]

Hex heads and locknuts would be my choice. I would use the rubber grommets too.

[Cyclick]

Your kit not have some of these plastic servo mounting tabs?

http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=3687

[oldeflyer]

Cyclick, Nope, no tabs like that. No mounting hardware at all for the servos except for the elevator servo plate, which is really part of the frame.

Greybird, I used a combination of 2mm bolts/nuts and servo screws with those mounting tabs on my 16. Used the rubber pads too. Didn't notice any mushiness like some posts I searched reported. But then again, I don't drive my models very aggressively.

The slots in the carbon wouldn't be right for those tabs, I think. I was just wondering how strong the carbon would be, to accept being screwed into with self-tapping screws. Don't think Century would tell you to do it that way if it would tear up the carbon, though.

[oldeflyer]

While wating for my linkage balls to get here I put my ball links on the rods. My fingers are a little sore just now. :D Decided on the round wheels for the outside servos and I had a Dubro arm for the Elv.. Have a Dubro single sided for the rudder, too.
This little tool is great for linkage lengths.

[oldeflyer]

Trying to get the El. servo horn measure right and my caliper says the bell crank on the A frame is approximately 23mm center to center. The manual calls for a servo horn 20-22mm from center of servo to one side of hosrn That makes it 40-44mm center to center! That can't be right?! I could see 10-12mm oneside, giving 20-24mm center to center.
From the pictures and notes, it appears that the servo horns and bellcranks on all three servos should be perfect rectangles (90 degree corners). That make the 12.5mm measure on the two side servos correct. Using that as a guide, the El. servo horn one side shuold be 11.5.

The 16 manual doesn't give a El. horn length, but I beleive the RCG threads came up with 20-22mm for that one. But the 16 only had one side.

How is the carbon 550 set up?

[oldeflyer]

Nobody put together a 550 carbon, or a 620se? Or doesn't it have the A frame? A little help guys.
Thanks.

[Cyclick]

I'll try to take a look at my 550 later tonight when I get home.

[Fred Bronk]

Nobody put together a 550 carbon, or a 620se? Or doesn't it have the A frame? A little help guys.
Thanks.

Patience Grasshopper :D

I use the manual to get things close, but don't use it as a bible.

Center everything on the head from the Swash up, then add linkages from the servos as you center them up.

EI: center the servo, then add the link to the bellcrank keeping it at 90*. So on and so on.

Never touched the 550 after the initial setup. But am now after a domb thumbs :(

FB

[oldeflyer]

Thanks for the replies. Sometimes it seems longer than it really is when you are waiting on help. Didn't realize it was such a short time between posts.

[Ichigo]

I measured the distance on the bellcrank and used the same distance on the servo horn.

[oldeflyer]

Ichigo, that is what I wound up doing.

Finally got my mounting screws from RTL. Didn't stock up from the last build. The El servo went in fine. When doing the AL and pitch servos, found that the length of 50mm was too long for the servo cutout to bellcrank distance. Haven't measured yet to see how much. I got side-tracked.

While doing the side bellcrank assembly, I did not pay any attention to the movement of the cranks, just made sure the order was right and snugged them up. When I went to put the servos in I noticed that one of the cranks seemed a little notchy and tight. After the feathering shaft problems, I decided to investigate. After much time, I measured everything on the cranks and found that the inner sleeve that should seperate the bearings is short. ALOT. The space between the bearings is a little over 3mm when they are seated on the ridge in the bellcrank. The spacer is 2mm. If you assemble the parts as is, hold the bellcrank to your ear and shake it, you can hear the sleeve rattle. The sleeve should make a solid connection to the inner bearing race. Not sure how to make up the 1mm difference.

Since this is the second time measured parts have been 1mm short, I think that Century is having a quality problem.

[Cyclick]

oldflyer

Sorry for the delay, but I was away for a couple of days.

I see you have discovered the measurements you were asking about - I measured mine and found they are 12.5mm from center on all the servo arms to the bellcranks (elevator/aileron & collective) as in the manual and work fine

As for the spacer, most other helis I have built, do not have spacers between the bearings on the bellcranks etc., as do the Century's. They just ask the builder to snug up the screw and back it off until there in no binding felt in the bearings!

From an engineering point of view, the spacer system between the bearings, as used on the Century helis, is a lot better. Of course it is important that they contact the inner race of both bearings.

As it is hard (if not impossible) to control 1mm spacings in such items that are molded, rather then machined, I can understand the problem. That is why I get the CNLR1003 micro washers/spacers from Cenntury. They are a 10 pack of M3x5x0.5 spacers, so it makes it easy to fit everything perfectly. :)

[oldeflyer]

Cyclick, thanks for getting back. Did as Fred said and used the manual as a "guide". Reduced my frustration alot. I'm in a technical field and expect alot more from documentation. Guess I will have to ease up a bit when hobbying. :)

That is an excellent suggestion about the washers. I didn't know they had such a thing.

I understand about moulded plastic parts and measurements. Shrink/swell, heating/cooling and material mix can all affect the finished product.

[oldeflyer]

Well, now that my 16 is back together, I am tryng to get this thing across the finish line.
Since I knew I had a little time to wait for the build, I ordered the metal tail pitch slider. I don't like the plastic ball on the regular one. It is never round.
Anyway, do you need a different tail pitch lever arm for the metal slider?
The height to the ball is considerably different. I did side by sides so you could see what I mean.

[Greybird]

I wonder if the Raven one would work? EDIT It does not work either.

[oldeflyer]

Got the swash linkages on. Except for the servo to bell crank lengths, the ones in the manual were very close. Expected the servo to be a little different, it all depends on the type of servo. Needed to cut a little off the El link so it would go into the El arm a little farther.

[oldeflyer]

I wonder if the Raven one would work? EDIT It does not work either.
So, Greybird, thanks for the information.
I guess I'm stuck with a $28 piece of shiny metal that won't work without cutting it up. :o Teach me to try and fix what ain't broke.

[Greybird]

You know oldeflyer, The stock part with the ball link looks like it would fit on the new slider. It would at least be half aluminum then. Not a total loss. Might be worth trying, since yours is apart anyway. Post back if it works. I'll do the same.

[KaanX]

I'm using the slider by cutting it to appropriate size. It was a lot easier than I tought. A 5 min job with a metal saw...

[oldeflyer]

Kaanx, I looked at that after reading a previous post of yours. I don't think I want to go that route. I'll probably just put it in the F/S section and put up with the oblong plastic ball.
With the transmission gear problem I'm having, I am in no rush. Wish it was a drop in, though. :(

[syclic]

I do not think it will fit without modification as it looks like it was designed for the Raven & Hawk nitros and not for the Swifts.

[oldeflyer]

Update on the steel feathering shaft. Talked to Century/Heli-World tech support on my transmission question and HE asked ME (gotta love good tech support) if there were any other problems, like grip smoothness. After picking myself up from the floor, I explained the grip notchy feel. He said that they looked at several kits there and it seems that some of the dampner rings were wide, so they trim them for kits they build. Score one for the poster that got that right.

He also said that on several of the kits with the steel feathering shaft, the stepped cut where the inner thrust bearing race sits had burrs/impefections. If you tried to put the grips together without cleaning them, the bolt pressure would just mash everything together and the clearance would be off. So I will be taking my stuff apart (again!) and checking that. If I can get those extra washers out of there that would be good.

And lastly...
He also said that the vendors pilots use the metal pitch slider. They put a little more stand-off in the pivot point for the control lever. Longer sleeve/bushing/whatever and a longer bolt into the tail box hole. Might give that a try.

[oldeflyer]

Another Tah-Dah!
Here is my solution to the metal tail pitch slider. The one with the 3mm flybar spacer is more elegant but the three spacers plus a washer one works a little better, I think.
You need an extra 4.5mm of height ( or lop that much off the slider) to make the slider work on the Swift, that is 6.5mm overall.
After talking with the Century tech, I started looking for things to move the lever out.
With the metal tail box, you don't need to worry about flex for the longer bolt. It is extremely sturdy.
Both methods take a 25mm bolt in place of the 18mm.
The 3mm flybar spacer from the 16 is 5mm and the normal tail spacer is 2mm, so it is a little long, but it does work.
With two extra spacers (2mm) from an extra set of bell cranks, I had 6.0mm. I added a 0.5 washer that I bought to shim the spacers on the bell cranks and the 6.5mm height is perfect. I test fit them with the ball beside the lever and you almost can't tell the difference. It is easy to tell when it is in the socket, because there is a little more friction with the flybar spacer.
I also looked at using the insert from an old 16 wood main blade. It would work but would need to be cut to length.
Hope this is of use to someone else.

[oldeflyer]

Just noticed that when I put the tail rotor on with the alu. slider, I need to reverse the grip arms 180 degrees from the guide book. Will this cause problems?
Thanks

[Greybird]

Yikes! Too many issues. Go back to the stock one.

[oldeflyer]

Ah, but Greybird, experimentation is the spice of life. I ask before I do somethings because I figure somebody else got 'spiced' already. :D
I'm just being lazy!

[syclic]

Looks interesting oldflyer.

I understand that tail slider was designed for the Hawk and Raven, not the Swift. When I first looked at it I thought it could easily be adopted to the Swift also. Now I know how easy it is, I will look to doing it on my 550SE. :)

[oldeflyer]

I'm probably going to give it a try, even though it turns backward from the stock veiwpoint. Did a little reading on a link from another, years old, thread about leading and lagging pitch control. I don't think the small difference in the pitch control for the tail should be too difficult to overcome. The Century tech said the Century people use them on their Swifts, so I guess I'm in good company.

[Greybird]

oldefyer, With your se-up like in the above picture, if you put the ball on the other side, can you still use the control rod guide?

[oldeflyer]

Greybird,
I don't run that support, never did in the 16 either.
Checked the clearance on the ball and it will go in reversed, but it is close. The stock push rod would not work as the shoulder on the link hits the tail gear case.

Got the boom on finally. Starting the gryo/servo/tail linkage setup now. Except for the canopy, this thing is almost done.

[Greybird]

So you never had any problems without that guide?

[oldeflyer]

No problems. Even when slid into a tree and had a major boom bend, the rod just popped off. Don't run it on my EP-8 either.
I test fit the tail pushrod on the 620 and it seems very sturdy. I don't throw the model around in the sky, so I think it will last.

I did have it break once, but I don't think anything could have survived that tree/heli crash. Even chopped the top off my GY240. The gryo still works though, it's on the Corona. :D

[oldeflyer]

Duah!
I had the stupid tail grips on the links backwards. And that was after taking them apart at least twice. It is better now than before, when they were reversed, smoother and the amount of throw is amazing.

Started to setup the rear servo. Got mechcanical zero done. Getting ready to set the limit on the gryo and the Tx battery started beeping at me! Battery low. Some days, you just can't win.

Two posts and the landing gear hold the canopy on. Don't know how well that will work after some vibration chafes the canopy on the front legs. :rolleyes: We'll see.

[oldeflyer]

First things first. I'm proud to be an American. Everyday I see a flag flying, I thnk of our military, past and present. Happy Memorial day!

I now have a flying 620SE! Looks the same now as it did before it's maiden (not always a sure thing with me). :D

Stock everything except the tail pitch slider. Running 600mm woodies. Using the Century 650+ with 10T pinion, getting about 2200 H/S. Calcs show it will do more, but I think this is enough. Might even go with a 9T to get the motor RPM up and keep a decent(for me) H/S. Batteries/ESC are barely warm, motor is a little hot though.

Except for the Swift's model line of being tail heavy(where do I put the battery :eek: ), the model flys really well. Using two MaxAmp 4S in series, my front battery is only half on the battery shelf. :(

Now it's time to get everything neat and tidy wirewise, and start tuning with the FDR.

Thanks for reading/posting.

[jamesppp]

Good news Oldeflyer. The new Swift 16 kits come with a longer battery tray. It is aluminun instead of carbon fiber. It isnt as rigid as the cf piece but if you want some more support under the front of the battery pack it may help you out, You can also use the switch slots in the electronics tray for running a velcro strap thru to help hold up the front pack. You could probably attach the longer aluminum plate onto your existing cf plate and just use some short bolts to bolt it the stock piece and you wouldnt have to take anything or much apart. Grind or cut notches around the skid mounts..Just a thought.
How long will it fly with your setup.
Post some pics when you get a chance.

Thanks
Jimmy

[LockMD]

Okay looks like I found the right thread for building my 620SE :D


Thanks for the PM Oldeflyer, this thread will help a GREAT deal......will post all future questions here. Thanks again for pointing me to it.

[LockMD]

The manual shows the smaller end of shaft (from hole to end) as being the top.

Finless' video on the swift 16 he said opposite, I know this is a different animal so I followed the manual. It just doesnt seem the swash has much movement (up/down) on the shaft.

Is the shorter end suppose to be top or is the manual wrong?

[LockMD]

The manual shows the smaller end of shaft (from hole to end) as being the top.

Finless' video on the swift 16 he said opposite, I know this is a different animal so I followed the manual. It just doesnt seem the swash has much movement (up/down) on the shaft.

Is the shorter end suppose to be top or is the manual wrong?


Well if ya think about it, I guess that was a stupid question. 'cause if you flip it over then you would have even less room LOL okay so I will build/connect the tail tonight.

[oldeflyer]

If you put it in and the bottom of the shaft is even with the bottom bearing, it is correct. I believe the manual was right on that one.

You don't need a lot of movement for the cyclic to be HOT. I'm a beginner and I set my swash down a few notches, it was too quick. Started out at +-12. I think it is at 9-10 now and with 2050-2100 H/S, the thing takes off like a rocket. I am still on 8S/5000mAH batteries, so I know it weighs a lot. But I get about 9 minutes of sedate flying.

[LockMD]

If you put it in and the bottom of the shaft is even with the bottom bearing, it is correct. I believe the manual was right on that one.

You don't need a lot of movement for the cyclic to be HOT. I'm a beginner and I set my swash down a few notches, it was too quick. Started out at +-12. I think it is at 9-10 now and with 2050-2100 H/S, the thing takes off like a rocket. I am still on 8S/5000mAH batteries, so I know it weighs a lot. But I get about 9 minutes of sedate flying.


Actually it sticks out a tad from the bottom bearing, should have taken a pic. Eeeeky suspects I may have gotten the 550's shaft by mistake, anyway you can measure the 620's shaft (hopefully you have a backup laying around)

[oldeflyer]

Lock,
I should have said the bottom bearing block. It does stick out a little from the bearing, but it should be almost level with the bearing block. I just looked at mine.

Nope, no extra shafts. If I plow this one in, it will need major work, so I'll just wait on spares. The thing moves so quick but with the digital servos it stops on a dime. Had somme close ones but no big splats.

[LockMD]

Lock,
I should have said the bottom bearing block. It does stick out a little from the bearing, but it should be almost level with the bearing block. I just looked at mine.

Nope, no extra shafts. If I plow this one in, it will need major work, so I'll just wait on spares. The thing moves so quick but with the digital servos it stops on a dime. Had somme close ones but no big splats.


Yeah that is where mine is too, just a hair past the 3rd bearing block...can you post close up pic of your shaft?

I yanked mine and measured it to be 7 7/8" heli-world says it should be 8" :confused:

I'm gonna go see them tomorrow with my shaft in hand.

[oldeflyer]

I can't take pics worth spit, but here is a pic of the center portion of the shaft at 0 degrees. Hope it helps.
Didn't see any way to rotate it on the upload. Maybe my camera can do it?

[LockMD]

I can't take pics worth spit, but here is a pic of the center portion of the shaft at 0 degrees. Hope it helps.
Didn't see any way to rotate it on the upload. Maybe my camera can do it?


That IS the way mine looks, I bet I have the right one too and this will be a wasted trip tomorrow :mad: just cause the guy cant measure worth spit!

well maybe my rotortech blades will be in so not a lost trip....


It just looks weird, this bird is a different animal all together of other helis, all my other ones have much more travel on the shaft. It's really slowing my build, 'cause I keep second guessing myself guess you cant really compare this bird to any others :confused:

[DVA]

Anyone looking for some NHP 620s, I have a new set. Never out of the box.

DVA

[RMG2]

oldeflyer, here is your photo rotated, brightened, and sharpened. Thanks for this thread :)

http://home.comcast.net/~pelletgunn/oldeflyer1.jpg

[Spidious]

If in fact it is at 0° pitch. Shouldn't the arms at the red lines be even with each other. And you would have to adjust the rods where the purple arrows are pointing to get them closer ?

[oldeflyer]

RMG2, that is GREAT work. I didn't know I could take such good pictures. :D

Spidious, you are correct about the arms. I probably bumped it after I set up the shot, after I turned my radio off. I leveled everything from the bottom up and haven't adjusted anything except for the blade tracking links. Been flying it since spring and except for a tail blade digging/shattering incident (too much flare on landing :rolleyes: ), it has never been 'in the dirt' and it flys great. Got some of the Century 'Tuf yellow tail blades on there now. Easy to see.