View Full Version : Discussion Wiring help
Yam916
Feb 07, 2008, 03:49 PM
Hello all,
I need some help in wiring my model. I have:
2 old school Futaba MC112b ESC
AR6000 receiver
2 7.4v batteries for the motors (4 385)
1 6v 1200mah Rx battery
1 12v 5000mah battery for my DIY water based smoke unit
Is the 6v battery compatible with the AR6000? How would I disable the BEC on the ESC? I read that you just cut one of wires on other ESC is it the same for these dinosaurs.
Now for the smoke unit. I bought a 12v ultrasonic transducer, in case you didn't know that’s what atomizes the water into vapor. The AC/DC power supply is putting out 12v DC 260ma. I just want to be sure that if I hook up the 12v battery to the transducer I wont short it out.
Thanks
Dimitri
JCJ
Feb 07, 2008, 03:56 PM
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=783582
Yam916
Feb 07, 2008, 04:15 PM
Thanks JCJ
In Ghost's diagram it shows the RX being supplied by a 4.8v battery. Does that mean I shouldn't put the 6v battery on the AR6000?
Dimitri
Stu :)
Feb 07, 2008, 04:50 PM
You can use either a 6 volt or 4.8 volt RX battery with most receivers. Most people just use four cell NiCds as it's cheaper option, for some people (and myself) prefer a 6 volt RX battery pack (five cells).
Stu :)
Yam916
Feb 07, 2008, 04:59 PM
Thanks Stu
Now just to figure out the smoke unit and the 12v battery.
Dimitri
mfr02
Feb 07, 2008, 06:05 PM
The AC/DC power supply is putting out 12v DC 260ma
Is this a smoothed/regulated supply? The transducer might rely on being supplied with unsmoothed DC, not the same as the constant DC you get from a battery.
Yam916
Feb 07, 2008, 06:22 PM
Good point. Could I find that out with a multi-meter? If in fact the supply is smooth would it be safe hook it up to the battery. Do the "mah" rating matter?
Dimitri
mfr02
Feb 08, 2008, 07:18 AM
Set the meter on an appropriate AC scale. Some meters will still give a reading to DC, but if you can get hold of a capacitor (not an electrolytic type) of about .47 microF and connect it in series this will act as a DC block. Anything left over to read will indicated AC, not very accurately, but it will be indicated.
A down and dirty method of checking is to connect a loudspeaker across the supply - if it hums, its AC or unsmoothed, if it just crackles when connected, DC.
mA is an indication of current, and can either be that which is flowing in a circuit, or, in the case of a power supply, the maximum that can safely be draw from it.
mAH, on the other hand, indicates how much power is stored in a battery, and indicates however many hours a current of whatever millAmps can be supplied.
LtDoc
Feb 08, 2008, 09:36 AM
As a general 'rule', the cheaper the AC/DC power supply, the 'dirtier' it is, sort of. Those 'wall-warts' just aren't very regulated/smooth in most cases. But, since that 'transducer' is designed to work off of 12 DC, hooking it to a 12 V battery shouldn't cause a problem.
'mfr02',
I'd forgotten about that speaker 'trick'! Doesn't take the place of a $$$$ 'scope, but then I don't have a 'scope anyway. ;)
- 'Doc
Yam916
Feb 08, 2008, 10:56 AM
Thanks all for your help. Ok, another newb question. Can I use this 12v powersupply to recharge the 12v battery that I have?
D-
pkboo
Feb 08, 2008, 11:20 AM
Thanks all for your help. Ok, another newb question. Can I use this 12v powersupply to recharge the 12v battery that I have?
D-
yes U can however you have to protect the PS with a resistor, this has to do with the return voltage of the batpack. What the calculations are for this I don´t know. GL Eugène
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