X-Gear Build

[jkarpy]

X-Gear assembly Part 1

[jkarpy]

Final assembly

[jkarpy]

X-Gear Mounting option B strut. (Work in Progress)

[jkarpy]

X-Gear for AP (Work in progress)

[Diggs]

Thanks for this thread James. I just finished up my first set of the new gear following this. Pretty simple build. Although I didn't sand nor trim the excess. I couldn't find any to trim off :) It is very solid, good improvement over the previous X-Gear!

Diggs

[jkarpy]

Thanks for this thread James. I just finished up my first set of the new gear following this. Pretty simple build. Although I didn't sand nor trim the excess. I couldn't find any to trim off :) It is very solid, good improvement over the previous X-Gear!

Diggs

Thanks Diggs, it brings you back to the old plastic model day’s doesn’t it?

P.S.: Just don’t stick a firecracker in it! :D

[Diggs]

LOL, Yeah it did. And I got glue all over the place, just like the old days :)

Diggs

[mbragdon]

Very helpful thread, the glue is drying now.

[seanpcola]

I saw these at the Perry swap meet, came home and ordered a set for my Eratix. Did a little beef-up on it and think it is going to work fine. I know it was made for a smaller, lighter model but pretty sure I won't have any problems. IF it does not take the weight then I suggest we bombard Millenium with emails till they make us a bigger size too! :D

[jkarpy]

I saw these at the Perry swap meet, came home and ordered a set for my Eratix. Did a little beef-up on it and think it is going to work fine. I know it was made for a smaller, lighter model but pretty sure I won't have any problems. IF it does not take the weight then I suggest we bombard Millenium with emails till they make us a bigger size too! :D

We are considering smaller and larger sizes.

James

[seanpcola]

We are considering smaller and larger sizes.

James


Works for me! :D

Actually, after looking it over I was wondering about maybe even a version for quite a bit larger models. The problem I am seeing on rougher fieds is that most gear does not allow much "cushion". I wanted to experiment with your gear to see how much it flexed. I was even think things like making the fittings out of aluminum, of course much larger and longer rods and so forth. You may have really started something here.

I know it may be pushing it using the X gear on the Eratix but after comparing it more and more to the stock gear I seriously think it should work.

Plus, you can't beat the "bling" factor either! ;)

[ok_flyer]

The X-Gear is a sweet upgrade. Nothing like getting rid of those flimsy, music wire rods that come stock from GWS. The foam wheels are just the right size and look great!

I would like to see a tail dragger mod similar to the X-Gear. I was trying to come up with one myself and decided to use the spare parts from my X-Gear kit to make one. Here's a link to the thread:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=865847

[rcproptester]

I finally got the floats finished for my SSX. Just got them mounted tonight. I hope to do a dry run with them tomorrow after work, then down the road to the pond to try them out. Anything I should know before starting?

Wish me luck :)

[jkarpy]

I finally got the floats finished for my SSX. Just got them mounted tonight. I hope to do a dry run with them tomorrow after work, then down the road to the pond to try them out. Anything I should know before starting?

Wish me luck :)
Make sure the front half of the floats are in front of the CG.

[rcproptester]

I did that. the CG is right about 1 1/2 inches in front of the "step" in the float

Also, How did I post this in the x-gear thread? I meant to put it in the ssx thread :rolleyes: :o :D

[jkarpy]

I did that. the CG is right about 1 1/2 inches in front of the "step" in the float

Also, How did I post this in the x-gear thread? I meant to put it in the ssx thread :rolleyes: :o :D

I think the CG should be behind the step.

[rcproptester]

Are you sure? The directions had a drawing of the floats mounted on a "Beaver" ? and it showed the cg of the plane was lined up just in front of the "step"

In any case, I will do a land run flight before attempting flying off water, and also make sure it floats ok before trying to take off

[jkarpy]

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1006696#post11657272

[cna91]

OKay....how do I keep my gear from twisting upon landing?

[jkarpy]

OKay....how do I keep my gear from twisting upon landing?

Try wrapping a little Teflon tape around the rod ends before you insert them. Please post some close-up pictures of your gear so I can see if there is a fixable problem.

James

[Greasetattoo]

James,
How come your website comes in all funny?
Letters over letters, etc..
thanks

[rcproptester]

Looks ok to me. What browser are you using?

[_OZ_]

Try wrapping a little Teflon tape around the rod ends before you insert them. Please post some close-up pictures of your gear so I can see if there is a fixable problem.

James

I think you said not to use glue, why not?

I would say that gluing is a last resort.

[rcproptester]

probably so you can replace the carbon rods if they break

[jkarpy]

James,
How come your website comes in all funny?
Letters over letters, etc..
thanks

Here is the fix for the website. Sorry for the Delay.

James

[_OZ_]

James, how and why does it say you edited my post?

[jkarpy]

James, how and why does it say you edited my post?

I accidentally hit edit instead of quote. I am the moderator of this blog so if someone gets out of line, I have the ability to erase them or their comments. :D

[_OZ_]

Ok.

[Bombay]

1) what is the difference between parts "J" and "L" ? They appear to be the same (ie interchangeable between left and right).

2) the written kit directions indicate not to use accelerator, but the online build uses it in at least one step. Why should accelerator be avoided?

3) Which strut, the thinner or thicker, should be on the front of the gear?

Great products.
Rob

[jkarpy]

1) what is the difference between parts "J" and "L" ? They appear to be the same (ie interchangeable between left and right).

They are interchangeable.

2) the written kit directions indicate not to use accelerator, but the online build uses it in at least one step. Why should accelerator be avoided?

You can use accelerator on the narrow part of J and L. It is my opinion that the accelerated bond is not as strong as a natural bond.

3) Which strut, the thinner or thicker, should be on the front of the gear?

The thicker strut goes in the front.

Great products.
Rob

Thanks for using my build thread to build your X-Gear and for purchasing Millennium R/C products.

James

[Greasetattoo]

James,

Who is selling your gear on Ebay?
Is that you?
I know the guys name is Mike....

From my other post...

Are you still selling the X-gear? Your website comes up all funky on my browser. (firefox) I did order a set off of Ebay, but he hardly answers e-mails. I ordered 4 of them, 3 black and one yellow. He sent me 4 black ones. I re-ordered the yellow one, and have not received them yet. Or a reply from my e-mails. He said he sent them over a week ago.. Jkarpy, Are you the one selling them on EBay?

[cactus]

OKay....how do I keep my gear from twisting upon landing?

I had the same thing happen to mine on the maiden flight this last Saturday. I'm going to try the Teflon tape.

[jkarpy]

James,

Who is selling your gear on Ebay?
Is that you?
I know the guys name is Mike....

From my other post...

I am not sure who, must be one of my dealers. Definitely not me.

James

[jkarpy]

I had the same thing happen to mine on the maiden flight this last Saturday. I'm going to try the Teflon tape.

Read back at the beginning of this thread. A few things can cause this.

1. The carbon is twisted and the fibers are loose.
2. The carbon has been turned in the socket and the ribs in the sockets are worn away.
3. The parts were built loose, not clamped while the glue was drying.
4. burs were not cleaned off the parts before gluing.
5. The glued surfaces were not roughed-up before gluing and the seems split after you tighten the gear.
6. The screws were tightened and the carbon was inserted before the glue dried 12 hours. CA glue will dry on the outside quickly in this aplication, however the inside may take 12 hours to completely dry.

Item 1 can be corrected by replacing the carbon. Sometimes you can soak the carbon in thin CA to stiffen it up. Items 2-6 can sometimes be corrected by wrapping Teflon tape around the rods and then reinsert them. Sometimes you just have to glue the carbon in to fix the twist problem. I suggest making sure the rods are good before doing so.

I hope this helps,

James

[Greasetattoo]

James,

Thanks for the reply..

Full Throttle Industries?
Is that one of your dealers?

He is slow to send product and has not replied to many of my e-mails..

[jkarpy]

James,

Thanks for the reply..

Full Throttle Industries?
Is that one of your dealers?

He is slow to send product and has not replied to many of my e-mails..

Sorry, I will pass this on to him.

James

[Greasetattoo]

Hey James,

Again, thanks for the quick replies..
Evidently he was on vacation in Mexico..

I should have them this week..
Let me cross my fingers...

thanks again,
Greg