broken receiver antenna

[Robbo]

Gday all

I have a broken receiver antenna. Is it OK to just solder it back together
and shrink wrap it??

In doing this the length of the antenna should be more or less the same.

Regards
Robbo.

[x-guy]

Yes, Just make sure the length is approximately the same (but not that
critical) and the solder is OK.


"Robbo" <pwrobbo@bigpond.com> ¼¶¼g©ó¶l¥ó·s»D
:Kj9K9.2034$jM5.5615@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
> Gday all
>
> I have a broken receiver antenna. Is it OK to just solder it back together
> and shrink wrap it??
>
> In doing this the length of the antenna should be more or less the same.
>
> Regards
> Robbo.
>
>

[David Smith]

"Robbo" <pwrobbo@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:Kj9K9.2034$jM5.5615@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
> Gday all
>
> I have a broken receiver antenna. Is it OK to just solder it back together
> and shrink wrap it??
>
> In doing this the length of the antenna should be more or less the same.
>
> Regards
> Robbo.
>
>
That's what I usually do and haven't noticed anything wrong afterwards. I
suppose you COULD buy a length of special 'receiver wire', if you do, let me
know - I have a nice bridge you might also be interested in!

--
Dave S, Kuusankoski, Finland.

My return address requires modification before use.
http://personal.inet.fi/koti/david.smith/helicopters/

[Wilbur Wilburforce]

Another alternative would be to solder on a whipe antenna and tidy up your
heli. You've obviously broke the wire once cos it was hanging out the back of
the heli no doubt, so nows an ideal opportunity to fit a whip antenna and
forget having to worry about getting the RX wire chopped again.


Will

[Wilbur Wilburforce]

>solder on a whipe antenna

Whip antenna you prat WHIP WHIP WHIP
Will

[David Smith]

"Wilbur Wilburforce" <willbeasley3d@aol.com1234> wrote in message
news:20021213052858.21142.00000017@mb-fm.aol.com...
> >solder on a whipe antenna
>
> Whip antenna you prat WHIP WHIP WHIP
> Will
>
>
Bad day? Or happy memories?

--
Dave S, Kuusankoski, Finland.

My return address requires modification before use.
http://personal.inet.fi/koti/david.smith/helicopters/

[Wilbur Wilburforce]

>Bad day? Or happy memories?

Both!


Will

[None]

Actually the length is pretty critical and significantly effects the
received signal strength. This in turn effects range and interference
rejection. A mm or two won't make a big difference but the odd cm will.
Same applies to the transmitter, never fly with a retracted tx antena it
only leads to disaster.


x-guy wrote:

> Yes, Just make sure the length is approximately the same (but not that
> critical) and the solder is OK.
>
>
<snip>

[Beav]

"None" <root@localhost.localdomain> wrote in message
news:atdtg1$4ei$1@helle.btinternet.com...
>
> Actually the length is pretty critical and significantly effects the
> received signal strength. This in turn effects range and interference
> rejection. A mm or two won't make a big difference but the odd cm will.

Here we go again!!! Maybe ON PAPER it makes a difference, but out there in
RealWorld it's not NEARLY as critical as people would have us believe. I've
flown with half an antenna for MONTHS and never got so much as a twitch from
the heli and other I know have done the same thing. One guy was even flying
with the antenna CUT to 4 inches when he fitted a whip antenna but didn't
CONNECT it. I've seen heli's with no obvious antennas and asked the flyer
where his whip twig is and been told the heli didn't have one. The antenna
was simply as it was when the Rx came out of the pack, all wrapped in a
tight coil. Still the heli's flew.

With that, I'll bow right out of this thread


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

[Martin Round]

"None" <root@localhost.localdomain> wrote in message
news:atdtg1$4ei$1@helle.btinternet.com...
>
> Actually the length is pretty critical and significantly effects the
> received signal strength. This in turn effects range and interference
> rejection. A mm or two won't make a big difference but the odd cm will.

Rubbish. I bet you've never tried this for yourself. We get this same
crap repeated on these newsgroups every month or so.

Receiver antenna length is very non critical. Within reasonable limits,
the longer you make the antenna, the more range you'll get. Most
receivers these days are equipped with convenient one-metre lengths of
wire. The same length is fitted to 27MHz, 35MHz, 40MHz, 53MHz and 72MHz
band receivers. This should demonstrate to everyone how non-critical
the antenna length is.

Martin.

[Lyle Chase]

After suffering through many rx 'hits' I took the advise of experts and tied
all the metal components together and grounded them to B-. Then the hits got
serious and shut me down in mid-flight a couple of times, so, wait for it -
I connected a short length of rx antenna to the boom, and haven't had a 'hit
since. That was a couple of months ago. Boomtenna's rock. Logo 10.

"David Smith" <david.smith@no_spam_pp2.inet.fi> wrote in message
news:G2fK9.29$Xn6.9@read3.inet.fi...
> "Robbo" <pwrobbo@bigpond.com> wrote in message
> news:Kj9K9.2034$jM5.5615@newsfeeds.bigpond.com...
> > Gday all
> >
> > I have a broken receiver antenna. Is it OK to just solder it back
together
> > and shrink wrap it??
> >
> > In doing this the length of the antenna should be more or less the same.
> >
> > Regards
> > Robbo.
> >
> >
> That's what I usually do and haven't noticed anything wrong afterwards. I
> suppose you COULD buy a length of special 'receiver wire', if you do, let
me
> know - I have a nice bridge you might also be interested in!
>
> --
> Dave S, Kuusankoski, Finland.
>
> My return address requires modification before use.
> http://personal.inet.fi/koti/david.smith/helicopters/
>
>
>
>

[Beav]

"Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:hdJK9.220328$ka.5199484@news1.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> After suffering through many rx 'hits' I took the advise of experts and
tied
> all the metal components together and grounded them to B-. Then the hits
got
> serious and shut me down in mid-flight a couple of times, so, wait for
it -
> I connected a short length of rx antenna to the boom, and haven't had a
'hit
> since. That was a couple of months ago. Boomtenna's rock. Logo 10.

Making a connection between the boom and the metal frames has been a "thing
of beauty" for years. I used to ALWAYS do it with Schluter Champions and
Min-Air X-cell 60's, but it's never been necessary with any of the later
versions of either make. I'd like to know what THAT is:-)


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

[Lyle Chase]

Beav: 'THAT' is about 40 flights with nary an RF glitch. The Logo 10 is
mostly plastic, including the side frames.
"Beav" <beavis.original@ntloxoworld.com> wrote in message
news:V7RK9.1023045$6N5.130737@post-03.news.easynews.com...
>
> "Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:hdJK9.220328$ka.5199484@news1.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> > After suffering through many rx 'hits' I took the advise of experts and
> tied
> > all the metal components together and grounded them to B-. Then the hits
> got
> > serious and shut me down in mid-flight a couple of times, so, wait for
> it -
> > I connected a short length of rx antenna to the boom, and haven't had a
> 'hit
> > since. That was a couple of months ago. Boomtenna's rock. Logo 10.
>
> Making a connection between the boom and the metal frames has been a
"thing
> of beauty" for years. I used to ALWAYS do it with Schluter Champions and
> Min-Air X-cell 60's, but it's never been necessary with any of the later
> versions of either make. I'd like to know what THAT is:-)
>
>
> --
> Beav
>
>
> Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
> (with the obvious changes)
>
> Beavisland now lives at
> www.beavisoriginal.co.uk
>
>

[Beav]

"Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:XEUK9.224466$ka.5316421@news1.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> Beav: 'THAT' is about 40 flights with nary an RF glitch. The Logo 10 is
> mostly plastic, including the side frames.

Are you running the original brushed motor Lyle? Reason I ask is a pal of
mine was having great fun with his LOGO (can't remember the number though)
and everything was fine 'til he needed more power then usual for "normal"
flying. When he began aerobatting it, he found himself in glitch city and
someone on here advised me to tell him to fit a brushless motor. I did and
he did this and he's not had a glitch since then.

He also gets gobs more power from the brushless setup, although he was a bit
surprised at the price to convert (motor and speed controller)


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

[Lyle Chase]

Yo Beav:
I've never seen,(or heard of) a Logo with a brushed motor 'till your post.
The brushless motors range from the low RPM/volt up to supersonics that the
madmen fly. I stick to the low end stuff because I'm a beginner and my
cajones are smaller than basket balls.
Maybe someday....
There has been a lot of experience with electro-static discharge (ESD) and
many cures offered. Some of them opposing others, like Mikado saying to use
graphite spray on the tail-drive belt and Shulze saying that if you do your
ESC will not be covered by warranty. Go figure.
Since this electric stuff is all witchcraft, smoke, and mirrors, we must
each find our own way through the BS.

Lyle.


"Beav" <beavis.original@ntlotxoworld.com> wrote in message
news:Ov%K9.1580675$O87.215281@news.easynews.com...
>
> "Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:XEUK9.224466$ka.5316421@news1.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> > Beav: 'THAT' is about 40 flights with nary an RF glitch. The Logo 10 is
> > mostly plastic, including the side frames.
>
> Are you running the original brushed motor Lyle? Reason I ask is a pal of
> mine was having great fun with his LOGO (can't remember the number though)
> and everything was fine 'til he needed more power then usual for "normal"
> flying. When he began aerobatting it, he found himself in glitch city and
> someone on here advised me to tell him to fit a brushless motor. I did and
> he did this and he's not had a glitch since then.
>
> He also gets gobs more power from the brushless setup, although he was a
bit
> surprised at the price to convert (motor and speed controller)
>
>
> --
> Beav
>
>
> Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
> (with the obvious changes)
>
> Beavisland now lives at
> www.beavisoriginal.co.uk
>
>

[Martin Round]

My Logo 10 has a Kontronic brushless. Photo here:

http://www.mround.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/models/photos/Logo10-1.jpg

I had glitches (only noticable on the tail - CSM 400 gyro) I guess
the glitches were too fast to notice on the cyclic and collective.

I swapped from a JR PPM 700 receiver to a Futaba PCM.
No more glitches.

Martin.

"Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:cs1L9.170348$ea.3318005@news2.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> Yo Beav:
> I've never seen,(or heard of) a Logo with a brushed motor 'till your post.
> The brushless motors range from the low RPM/volt up to supersonics that
the
> madmen fly. I stick to the low end stuff because I'm a beginner and my
> cajones are smaller than basket balls.
> Maybe someday....
> There has been a lot of experience with electro-static discharge (ESD) and
> many cures offered. Some of them opposing others, like Mikado saying to
use
> graphite spray on the tail-drive belt and Shulze saying that if you do
your
> ESC will not be covered by warranty. Go figure.
> Since this electric stuff is all witchcraft, smoke, and mirrors, we must
> each find our own way through the BS.
>
> Lyle.
>
>
> "Beav" <beavis.original@ntlotxoworld.com> wrote in message
> news:Ov%K9.1580675$O87.215281@news.easynews.com...
> >
> > "Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> > news:XEUK9.224466$ka.5316421@news1.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> > > Beav: 'THAT' is about 40 flights with nary an RF glitch. The Logo 10
is
> > > mostly plastic, including the side frames.
> >
> > Are you running the original brushed motor Lyle? Reason I ask is a pal
of
> > mine was having great fun with his LOGO (can't remember the number
though)
> > and everything was fine 'til he needed more power then usual for
"normal"
> > flying. When he began aerobatting it, he found himself in glitch city
and
> > someone on here advised me to tell him to fit a brushless motor. I did
and
> > he did this and he's not had a glitch since then.
> >
> > He also gets gobs more power from the brushless setup, although he was a
> bit
> > surprised at the price to convert (motor and speed controller)
> >
> >
> > --
> > Beav
> >
> >
> > Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot
com"
> > (with the obvious changes)
> >
> > Beavisland now lives at
> > www.beavisoriginal.co.uk
> >
> >
>
>

[Beav]

"Lyle Chase" <lylechase@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:cs1L9.170348$ea.3318005@news2.calgary.shaw.ca ...
> Yo Beav:
> I've never seen,(or heard of) a Logo with a brushed motor 'till your post.

Maybe Mikado don't sell it/them with those motors anymore Lyle. My pals was
an early one though.

> The brushless motors range from the low RPM/volt up to supersonics that
the
> madmen fly. I stick to the low end stuff because I'm a beginner and my
> cajones are smaller than basket balls.

It's not large bowlocks you need, it's a bottomelss pit of cash:-)

> Maybe someday....
> There has been a lot of experience with electro-static discharge (ESD) and
> many cures offered. Some of them opposing others, like Mikado saying to
use
> graphite spray on the tail-drive belt and Shulze saying that if you do
your
> ESC will not be covered by warranty. Go figure.

I gave up trying to do that years ago.

> Since this electric stuff is all witchcraft, smoke, and mirrors, we must
> each find our own way through the BS.

And there's a whole slew of that knocking around.


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk