Read the manual first...

[Jettaheizer]

Hi there,

sometimes I´m a real donkey... :(
Bought the Smit Houston Kit (1:200 scale) from Revell last week when I was in our local toy store. I´m planning to make it a RC model using two modified midi servos (only motor and electronic unit) for thrust and a mini servo for steering. Because I don´t have the drives yet I started building the forship decks (seperate from the hull, want to make it removable later). After I put on the second deck I realized that I forgot to glue in the clear window material...
Any Idea how to get that in without cutting the decks apart?

Next question: how can I make the props work? The tubes (what the hell is the name of that part?) are solid plastic and I don´t have the skills to drill in the long hole for the shaft.

Maybe I should not start three projects at the same time...

Greetings,
Franz

[Stu :)]

Next question: how can I make the props work? The tubes (what the hell is the name of that part?) are solid plastic and I don´t have the skills to drill in the long hole for the shaft.

Replace the solid plastic drive shafts with brass tubes and rods of a similar size to the model's, in fact I would go slightly bigger. What propellers are you going to use? The ones in the kit or sourced from somewhere else?

Stu :)

[mfr02]

If you can still reach the superstructure innards, self adhesive clear tape does nice glazing. You wind up with glazed windows, sticky side out, but a few drops of varnish will seal in the sticky surface.
You need a new sharp drill bit of the same diameter as the prop shaft tube outer that you are going to use, clamp the hull in a vice, and take very careful aim, and drill very slowly and carefully. If it breaks through the sides, it is not a disaster, just and annoyance, as you then set to with filler of your choice and sand back to a good surface.
If you can drill small and accurate, take the original kit prop(s), and drill through the centre of the boss. If you make your own shaft/tube assembly, you will probably epoxy the props on the end of the shaft.
I tend to use short lengths of cotton bud tube as bearings, and find plastic tube to slide over as the outer. The shafts I make from brass rod, chosen to be a sliding fit in the cotton bud tube.
In the event of making a mess of the kit props, have a visit to the towboatjoe website (havent got the link on this computer), and look at "shafts" where he has given a how2 on props and shafts, and how to make your own props from brass sheet which are then soft soldered onto the shafts. Simple and it works.

[Jettaheizer]

Thank you for your Answers, I will try clear self adhesive tape.

I want to use the props included in the kit because there´s allready a hole in of about 1,5 - 2 mm diameter (did not measure it yet). If I can manage it, I will take a pic of the drive schafts after work so you can see my Problem drilling a hole into it.
Here you can see the parts in Original (the two parts in the lower left corner):
http://www.modellversium.de/kit/bilder/2/6/0/2260-26298.jpg
(Photo from modellversium.de)

Looks like there´s a hole in allready, but isn´t.

Greetings,
Franz

[papower]

Cut the "Tube" part out and just use the ends. Then use aluminum or brass tube to connect and just drill out the ends. This way you still have the scale look without the hassle.
Bruce

[mfr02]

Yes, drilling those out would not be a case for skill, more in the nature of a miracle. papowers idea of cutting out the unwanted bits, drilling out the end pieces and re-assembling with your own tube has great merit.
On my small stuff, like I said, I start with the choice of bearing and then work both ways from that. I that means that the hole in the prop is too big, then I plug the hole with plastic tube, and hope to wind up after reaming with the right size. Fortunately we are not talking high power here.
How thick are the prop blades? I ask because I used the kit prop on my Lindberg tug, and wound up spending ages sanding the thickness down in situ to cure the tendency to walk sideways rather than go forward. Having squared ends, yours look like they fit in nozzels, which might make access awkward in the future.

[Jettaheizer]

Thanks for the good idea, I will try it as soon as I find a matching shaft. I have some aluminum tube that could fit. Will have to measure it. Then I have to think about some bearings, but it will be difficult to find something matching in that dimensions...
Shall I drill out the ends for the tube to go completely through the ends or just part of it?

The prop blades are less than 1mm thick and have rounded edges. They are running in kort nozzles. I want to use as many kit parts as possible. I will stick one of the props onto a rod and try it with my hand drill in some water to look how it works. I don´t need a power boat but the props should bring the ship forward at an acceptable speed.

Greeting,
Franz

P.S.: at the moment I can look into this forum from my office´s PC only, my home Laptop does not let me in here... :confused:

[mfr02]

I used nesting aluminium tube as the outer and bearings when I first started, but found that the ali bearings corroded solid after a time, hence the move to plastic. Obviiously, the outer tube, if exposed, needs to be as narrow as possible for appearance' sake, therefore needs to be as thin walled as possible. I would be thinking of brass, as it is easier to get thin walled (in my local shop, anyway).

[Jettaheizer]

I found a complete shaft/drive kit with 3,5mm outer diameter in a german shop ( Link (http://www.scaleship.de/shop/article_1452/Wellenanlage-f%C3%BCr-Mini-Boote.html?shop_param=cid%3D17%26aid%3D1452%26) ) for a few bucks. If it fits the "tube" part of the original schafts I will order it. The thread is 2mm so this would fit the hole in the original kit´s props.
If it does not fit I either could use it nevertheless at the expense of the scale look or I could look for thin walled brass tube and a rod that fits the tube, maybe with some bearings.

Greetings,
Franz

btw: had to cut off two of the deck parts again to get access to the window frames, so I glued in the original clear plastic at the windows.

[Jettaheizer]

Good Morning America (it´s about 8:35 am here...)...

Measured out the "tube part" of the original shaft yesterday. The outer diameter is 3,2mm, so I will use the 3,5mm shaft/drive from scaleship. Saves a lot of work.

Another question: what do you think about spraying the hull with plastic primer and after that painting with mat black car paint (spray)?
What kind of mat red color yould I use for underwater color?

Greetings,
Franz

[mfr02]

I usually colour my plastic kits while on the sprue with an acrylic base grey primer. This makes the bits n pieces more visible for me, and makes sure that when painted, all the parts are opaque. A lot of models look great until you see them back-lit. Dont know what is in your paints, so try it on a spare bit first. It is always disapointing to see your model dissolve.
For the hull bottom I usually go for the red primer, a sort of browny-red.

[boater_dave]

If the model is big enough, have you considered traditional (tiny) motors an ESC like this?
lynxmotion (http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx?productID=563&CategoryID=10)
This one is a twin 10amp motor control (they make a twin 5amp unit as well) and will control 2 motors with a throttle/rudder input. A rudder servo can still be used if you want, just use a 'Y' harness before the controller. They work great.
Just a thought.

Dave

[Jettaheizer]

Dave, that would be a very nice thing, but it´s much more expensive than two servos and a Y cable...
I will think about it and search for such a thing in germany.
If I decide to take this controller I can still use the servo motors.
Thanks for the link.

Greetings,
Franz