Monocote revisited

[FriarAHS@aol.com]

This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!

Hi List,

Ever since I became interested in "electric," about 15 years ago, and became
very conscious of adding lightness I abandoned Monocote...especially because
most of my models are on the small side.
Last week my grandson asked me to show him how to cover an airframe with
film. I had an uncovered rudder to a 2M Gnome I was converting to electric
power. The most accessible scrap of film I could find happened to be transparent
red Monocote. Well, I covered the rudder and it really was beautiful. There
was a sheen and depth of color that I think is not present in the other
films I have been using. Is this my imagination? Does anybody else share this
observation?
I used to have a chart that enabled a weight comparison of the various
coverings but lost it. So, here's another question: Given the current state of
electric flight, the better motors and lighter batteries, as a practical
matter is the weight differential between Monocote and say, Ultracote Lite, on a 2
meter glider worth abandoning Monocote if it is preferred aesthetically?

Regards,
Alan

Alan H. Siegel
New York City



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[Jim K]

This message from Jim K <jkeller11@adelphia.net> brought to you by EFLIGHT!

Go here, or see below:

http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/weights.html

or presented below in grams per square foot ( 28.35 grams - 1 ounce)

/Produce Bags (Thin Plastic, From Target) 0.53 //(See Post # 18, 24)/
/Japanese Tissue 0.650/
/Risteen Microlite (Corsair Blue) 0.81 //(See Post # 20)/
/Risteen Microlite 0.90-0.95 //(see post # 15 + 20)/
/Esaki Light Silk (Clear) 0.97/
/Risteen Microle (Light Yellow) 1.1 //(See Post # 20)/
/Saran Wrap (11" x 12") 1.29 //(See Post # 18)/
/Ripstop Polyester 1.575 //(see post # 15)/
/Coverite MicroLite (Transparent) 1.889/
/Nelson LiteFilm 1.950/
/SoLite 1.950/
/Airspan 2.119 //(Mfg listed weights 2.229-2.601)/
/MicaFilm (Transparent) 2.332/
/LiteSpan 2.674-2.787/
/Light Colored Japanese Tissue, 2.749 //(3 Thin coats Nitrate Dope)/
/Coverlite 2.803 (See Post # 10)/
/Colored Micafilm 3.247-3.716/
/Ultracote (Transparent Lite) 3.4/
/Light White Silk, 3.572 //(5 Coats Thin Nitrate Dope)/
/Fibafilm 3.874-3.901/
/Micafilm (Red & Yellow) 4.0/
/Sig Coverall (White) 4.3/
/Polycover (Transparent) 4.355/
/Sig Supercote (Silver) 4.8/
/Ultracote (Transparent) 5.0/
/Colored Skysail, 5.087 //(4 coats 50/50 Butyrate Dope)/
/Solarfilm 5.109-5.574 //(Mfg Listed weights 4.645-6.038)/
/Black Silkspan, 5.216 //(5 Coats Thin Nitrate Dope)/
/MonoKote (Colored Transparent) 5.307-5.5/
/Solarspan 5.574-6.503/
/Econokote 5.670 (See Post # 5)/
/TowerKote 5.670 (See Post # 16)/
/Aerofilm 5.574-5.669/
/MonoKote (Red) 5.8/
/SIG AeroKote Lite 5.8-6.0 (See Post # 27)/
/Monokote (Metallic Platinum) 6.0/
/MonoKote (Black) 6.0/
/Ultracote 6.503/
/Solarfilm Matt Polyester 6.503-7.432 (See Post # 12)/
/Polycover (Opaque) 6.533 (See Post # 7)/
/Ultracote (Cub Yellow) 6.6/
/White Japanese Tissue, 6.879 //(4 Coats 50/50 Butyrate Dope)/
/Colored Nylon, 6.898 //(6 Coats 50/50 Butyrate Dope)/
/SolarKote 6.967/
/Coverite Black Baron Opaque 7.087 //(Mfg. Listed Weight)/
/Coverite 21st Century Film 7.276-10.4/
/Mokokote (White) 7.3/
/MonoKote (Yellow) 7.5/
/White Super Coverite 7.559/
/SIG AeroKote 7.9 (See Post # 27)/
/Ultracote (Pearl Yellow) 8.2/
/SolarTex 8.361 //(Mfg Listed weight) 7.896-8.825/
/Coverite Colored Super 8.504/
/Superfabric 8.552-11.024 (See Post # 25)/
/Coverite 21st Century Fabric 9.638 //(Mfg Listed Weight)/
/MokoKote (Florescent Orange) 9.4/
/GlossTex 10.683-11.612 //(Mfg Listed weight) 10.683-12.077/
/WorldTex (White) 13.3/



FriarAHS@aol.com wrote:

>This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!
>
>Hi List,
>
>Ever since I became interested in "electric," about 15 years ago, and became
>very conscious of adding lightness I abandoned Monocote...especially because
>most of my models are on the small side.
>Last week my grandson asked me to show him how to cover an airframe with
>film. I had an uncovered rudder to a 2M Gnome I was converting to electric
>power. The most accessible scrap of film I could find happened to be transparent
>red Monocote. Well, I covered the rudder and it really was beautiful. There
>was a sheen and depth of color that I think is not present in the other
>films I have been using. Is this my imagination? Does anybody else share this
>observation?
>I used to have a chart that enabled a weight comparison of the various
>



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[Peter Misuinas]

This message from Peter Misuinas <pmisuinas@hotmail.com> brought to you by EFLIGHT!


Depends on how much you think 1.5 ounces is worth, since that's about the max additional weight you will add using Monocote over Litefilm or its equivalent (~1.8 versus .6 oz/sq yd) on a 2M glider, and that's for non-transparent--for transparent, the weight addition is even less...> From: FriarAHS@aol.com> Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2007 12:04:07 -0500> Subject: [EFLT] Monocote revisited> To: eflight@ezonemag.com> > This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!> > Hi List,> > Ever since I became interested in "electric," about 15 years ago, and became > very conscious of adding lightness I abandoned Monocote...especially because > most of my models are on the small side.> Last week my grandson asked me to show him how to cover an airframe with > film. I had an uncovered rudder to a 2M Gnome I was converting to electric > power. The most accessible scrap of film I could find happened to be transparent > red Monocote. Well, I covered the rudder and it really was beautiful. There > was a sheen and depth of color that I think is not present in the other > films I have been using. Is this my imagination? Does anybody else share this > observation?> I used to have a chart that enabled a weight comparison of the various > coverings but lost it. So, here's another question: Given the current state of > electric flight, the better motors and lighter batteries, as a practical > matter is the weight differential between Monocote and say, Ultracote Lite, on a 2 > meter glider worth abandoning Monocote if it is preferred aesthetically?> > Regards,> Alan> > Alan H. Siegel> New York City> > > > ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com> > > --- StripMime Report -- processed MIME parts ---> multipart/alternative> text/plain (text body -- kept)> text/html> ---> > *** Any complaints or problems? Send an email to monitor@ezonemag.com> *** For help with list commands go to http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/mailhelp.htm> *** For the list rules go to http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/mailrule.htm
__________________________________________________ _______________
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http://www.windowslive.com/connect.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Wave2_newways_112007

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[FriarAHS@aol.com]

This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!


In a message dated 11/18/2007 6:41:49 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pmisuinas@hotmail.com writes:

Depends on how much you think 1.5 ounces is worth, since that's about the
max additional weight you will add using Monocote over Litefilm or its
equivalent (~1.8 versus .6 oz/sq yd) on a 2M glider, and that's for
non-transparent--for transparent, the weight addition is even less..


Thanks for weighing in, Peter. To me, and for this size and kind of model,
and my kind of non competitive flying, I don't think 1.5 oz. is important. I
guess I don't have to strip the rudder :-). I have found Monocote to be
very durable and to maintain its color and "finish" over many years. I have a
25 year old Monocote covered extended wing Amptique that I haul out once or
twice a year. A few squirts of Fantastic and it looks like new. I guess I
just had this twinge of nostalgia coupled with the realization that I had been
somewhat blindly adhering to a bit of electric flight dogma and felt a need to
rattle my own cage a bit. The question remains, is Monocote as good as I'm
remembering it, or has absence made my heart grow fonder?
Regards,

Alan

Alan H. Siegel
New York City




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[John Juechter]

This message from "John Juechter" <jwjuechter@cox.net> brought to you by EFLIGHT!

Just as an aside, I, too, went from Monokote to Micafilm and LiteSpan, both
of which were nice and lighter in weight, but they don't have the look of
Monokote. My last use was on a 7 foot Playboy, using red and yellow
transparent Monokote, and I really don't think it gets any better.
One other point, when covering wingtips and other compound curves, it helps
if you use the iron on the high point of the surface while you are
stretching it. before the final tackdown, making the short part of the film
longer. Then, after tackdown, shrink the parts of the film that were longer
when you laid the film in place.

Jack Juechter


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[FriarAHS@aol.com]

This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!


In a message dated 11/18/2007 3:04:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rick-page@shaw.ca writes:

So if you have actually been able to relive the past and it is just as
beautiful as you remember, I envy you and encourage you to try again while
you're on a roll.

Rick.



Rick,
The secret to Monocote in my experience is a stout heat resistant leather
glove and being willing to waste enough Monocote to get a good grip for
stretching under the heat gun. Probably, leaving enough excess to grab is the key.
In any event there are several rolls in the back of the closet and it'll be
a nice change of pace. I've been using a lot of Coverlite and it's so
sensitive to heat and it's so easy to burn a hole in it that Monocote will be a
relief :-). Thanks for the feedback.
Alan



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[FriarAHS@aol.com]

This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!


In a message dated 11/18/2007 4:05:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jwjuechter@cox.net writes:

Just as an aside, I, too, went from Monokote to Micafilm and LiteSpan, both
of which were nice and lighter in weight, but they don't have the look of
Monokote. My last use was on a 7 foot Playboy, using red and yellow
transparent Monokote, and I really don't think it gets any better.



Jack,
Exactly my feeling. It's nice to have confirmation. Now that makes two of
us :-)
Alan

Alan H. Siegel
New York City




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[FriarAHS@aol.com]

This message from FriarAHS@aol.com brought to you by EFLIGHT!


In a message dated 11/19/2007 12:45:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jkeller11@adelphia.net writes:

It's clear, but can be painted on the adhesive side.



How does that work? Do you spray it on the adhesive side before you apply
it? Doesn't seem very user friendly.

Alan

Alan H. Siegel
New York City




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[Herm]

This message from Herm <herm@bellsouth.net> brought to you by EFLIGHT!

I got a 250' roll of 3 mil Doculam a few months ago, amazing stuff!.. I
monokoted a piece of balsa wood, sprayed it with some Krylon spray paint
and set it on the dash of my truck to age under the sun and heat.. after 4
months the test piece has not bubbled or sagged (solid surface) at all..
looks just like the day it was applied.

I tried the 3 mil stuff hoping it would hide defects on the surface of the
wood, but it does not hide anything, just as bad as monokote. Cant beat the
$25 cost for the 27" roll :)

Jim K <jkeller11@adelphia.net> wrote:

>Long ago, I switched
>to Model Research's .0015" Doculam for small parkflyer and smaller
>planes. Somewhat lighter, but far more economical than any of the
>commercially available 'Cotes. I comes in a 25 inch by 75 foot roll for
>$25.00. It's clear, but can be painted on the adhesive side.

Herm
Astropics http://home.att.net/~hermperez


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[Jim K]

This message from Jim K <jkeller11@adelphia.net> brought to you by EFLIGHT!

Herm,

Did you spray Krylon on the adhesive side, or the glossy side?


Herm wrote:

>This message from Herm <herm@bellsouth.net> brought to you by EFLIGHT!
>
>I got a 250' roll of 3 mil Doculam a few months ago, amazing stuff!.. I
>monokoted a piece of balsa wood, sprayed it with some Krylon spray paint
>and set it on the dash of my truck to age under the sun and heat.. after 4
>months the test piece has not bubbled or sagged (solid surface) at all..
>looks just like the day it was applied.
>



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