rc navigation light with pic & picbasic

[bitmaniac]

Based on the idea of rc-cam Nav-Lights (http://www.rc-cam.com/navlight.htm) project
I decided to re-build a circuit using a more advanced pic (12f675) and picbasic pro.

CLICK here (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=2172132) or read POST #53 for THE LAST AND FINAL VERSION V3.1! UPDATE by ALAIN
(to allow MULTIPLEX slow frames ( MC 30xx, 40xx and elder transmitters ) , also added some " deadband " around the switching points

So here it is AZlights (and latest v3.1 features -with the help of Acetronics -in red)...
Features:
1.Set mode (auto detects 3 positions switch)
2.Saves setting to on board eeprom
3.Selects single blink / double blink strobe light
4.Three operating modes: Lights OFF,Wing Lights+Strobe ON,
Wing Lights+Strobe ON+Landing Lights ON
5.PCB + Schematics + hex code
6.best glitches filtering
7.Entering Fail - safe mode need > 16 falses pulses per 6 sec period
8.Bugs fixed with Futaba and JR Tx.
9.Improved programming method (new method here! (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9122248&postcount=58) )
10.stores everything in eeprom now (even the flash rate)
11.improved " deadband " around the switching points
12.allows MULTIPLEX slow frames now -MC 30xx, 40xx and elder transmitters

video (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=1574577) in action!

So here it is AZlights project (some bare PCBs and a completed circuit...)
THANKS to rc-cam for giving me the original idea!

[bitmaniac]

...
and a little more details of the functionality of the circuit:
There is a set jumper
* when open all leds blink once as soon as you connect the battery - normal mode preset values from onboard eeprom are loaded.
* when closed (connect the battery) all leds blink 4 times - calibrating mode
1st step:red & green leds ON > you have 2 seconds to store 1st position of TX aux switch.
2nd step:landing Leds ON > you have 2 seconds to store 2nd position of TX aux switch.
3rd step: values are stored to onboard eeprom and rclights starts normally.

This way you can also use any analog channel on your TX (even Throttle!)

feature added: you can select double flash rate (90 blinks /min) or single flash rate (45 blinks/min) for the storbe light on power up. -FAA standards I think...

[rcgolf]

bitmaniac.
Very nice design. As I'm sure you have seen HERE (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8545498&postcount=2) I too was inspired by the RC-Cam project. You have gone the whole nine yards too with a dedicated PCB and correct engineering circuitry. I must admit my design is lacking in proper circuitry design. But it has run flawlessly for a several months with numerous flights and I even let it run for 48 hours non-stop just to stress test it. I'm running straight from a 5 volt source (BEC when on plane) and have the SERIAL IN pin tied straight to 0v pin (which is wrong, but works).
The LED lights run right off of pins 0,1,2,4 (8 pin 12f683) with no resistors (since pin output is only 20ma) no fear of burning out a light (if and when that does happen I'll simply replace). Pin 3 is the receiver channel signal input.I know and understand the way I have this setup is at most improper and wrongly executed, it just seems to work flawlessly (your also not supposed to use a screwdriver as a pry bar, but I do that too. :) ). My motivation here is the least amount of added weight as possible.
The mode selection is done by the transmitter (for me channel 5 which is not in use), the PIC measures the Pulse Width Modulation of a channel from the receiver and writes to a memory address, then by polling that address it runs one of the program sequences.
My PIC is in a push in socket for easy removal should I need to update my program (which I have done several times).
I am very new to the whole PIC world and also used a basic like language structure for my source. I'm not on my main computer but I did a quick schematic in MS Paint(kinda like drawing in sand with a stick). Again I know I have done this all wrong and electronically improper, it just freaking works.
Again just a short demonstration vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huLWSHL5djM

[davecrash]

RC, I like it. simple enough for me to make even.. I have a couple of questions about it though. through the Tx if I'm correct you can turn it. on solid. on sequecne, and off ? What voltage are the LED's, and can I hook up more then one led to each channel and should it be parallel or serial.

[rcgolf]

Dave.
Yes it is controlled from the transmitter as you asked. It can run from a spare channel or any other channel. Example, say you wanted the blink mode to blink faster as you throttle up. Tie it to the ESC signal wire and code accordingly.
They are standard 5mm superbright LED's. Specs for the white...13,000mcd, 3.4v froward drop, max current 20ma.
Specs for the red all the same but 14,000mcd.
specs for the green all the same but 30,000mcd. (little brighter)
I cant remember where I read it but if memory serves the LED's can handle up to 5.5 volts(don't quote me on that though), its the current that kills them. The PIC only puts out 20ma per pin so no worries there.
You can run two but the brightness suffers to the point that its not worth it. If you want to run more than one off a single pin, then transistors & resistors and some circuitry engineering will have to be done like the original poster has done.
For my hillbilly needs if I want more LED's I will just move up to a PIC with more output pins. :)
Dave, go for it man. its easy, cheap and fun to do. I learned a lot just getting to this point. I am not an electronics wiz or a programmer and this was easy after I invested some homework and testing time.
heres a quick example of the code to turn on & off an led

code:
run:
high 1 #turns on LED on pin 1
pause 150 #150 millisecond pause
low 1 #turns off led on pin 1
pause 150 #150 millisecond pause
goto run:

There is a lot of homework to be done to get to the more complex functions, but thats the code that I started with and the project just grew from there.

If your new to PIC microcontrollers I suggest PICAXE Picaxe site (http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/picaxe/) I used the Picaxe-08m chip datasheet here (http://www.rev-ed.co.uk/docs/picaxe_manual1.pdf).
I bought my stuff from HERE (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php)
the programmer here (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8323)
programmer cable here (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8313)
Be sure to get multiple chips just in case you toast one (I haven't yet) here (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8308)
The Led's were also bought at Sparkfun. They are listed under the components just click on LED, and the Superbright LED's are about half way down the page.(can be bought in bulk much cheaper on ebay.)
As you can see the cost for this is about what a light kit would cost you retail but with the satisfaction that you built it and the knowledge you gained that can be applied to future projects.Hope the information helps.
My apologies to bitmaniac, I did not mean to hijack your thread. Just sharing ways for people to get into this project.

[Andy120]

Could this handle 1W LED's for landing (2) and wing lights (4) ?

thanks
Andy

[bitmaniac]

RCGOLF:
You are welcome my friend as anybody alse to share your ideas here. No problem with it my friend! :)
Actually I did like your way of direct connecting the leds to pic but I wanted sth more stable and secure.
My pcb weights about 7 grams is liitle bit big and if I wanted the minimum weight and room I would really do it your way leds direct to pic ,this for sure!

Andy 120:
I think AZlights CAN handle this current.
I will see specs of th 2N2222...... just a moment....

800mah max! sorry.....
maybe if 2n2222 replaced with other type will do the job

[Acetronics]

RCGOLF:

I think AZlights CAN handle this current.
I will see specs of th 2N2222...... just a moment....

800mah max! sorry.....
maybe if 2n2222 replaced with other type will do the job


Hi, BitManiac

from the Philips Datasheet ...

VCEsat collector-emitter saturation voltage
2N2222 IC = 150 mA; IB = 15 mA; note 1 - 400 mV
IC = 500 mA; IB = 50 mA; VCE sat = 1.6 V

VCEsat collector-emitter saturation voltage
2N2222A IC = 150 mA; IB = 15 mA; note 1 - 300 mV
IC = 500 mA; IB = 50 mA; VCE sat = 1 V


That won't fit !!! more than 800 mW on a TO18 Case ... :mad: Ouch !!!

have a look to Zetex ZTX 652/653 that show a .15v VCE sat @ 1Amp , to reach such a low VCE Sat, they need ... 100 mA for Ib. won't fit nor !!! :o

No, seriously, if looking for a very small "commutator" ... use SO8 SMD Twin Mosfets, like IRF7201 ... the 1.27 mm pitch allows soldering with " classical " irons ;) ...

Alain

[bitmaniac]

.....
That won't fit !!! more than 800 mW on a TO18 Case ... :mad: Ouch !!!

have a look to Zetex ZTX 652/653 that show a .15v VCE sat @ 1Amp , to reach such a low VCE Sat, they need ... 100 mA for Ib. won't fit nor !!! :o

No, seriously, if looking for a very small "commutator" ... use SO8 SMD Twin Mosfets, like IRF7201 ... the 1.27 mm pitch allows soldering with " classical " irons ;) ...

Alain

I think you are absolutely right my friend!
Actually first thouths was using SMD pic & Mosfets for a combat design but I had 'traditional' parts in hand and wanted a quick and reliable design.

HERE IT IS a first PCB art work and HEX + Source file (REMOVED!)

[frank48]

...
This way you can also use any analog channel on your TX (even Throttle!)

feature added: you can select double flash rate (90 blinks /min) or single flash rate (45 blinks/min) for the storbe light on power up. -FAA standards I think...

Hi Bitmaniac

Congratulations on your circuit, very nice. I'd like to have ago at making this but just have a couple of questions...

How do you select the double flash rate? Can more than one flashing LED be added?
Also I'm assuming this can be used on just the throttle channel without any other (I only have a 4 ch TX :( )

Thanks Frank

[bitmaniac]

Hi Bitmaniac

Congratulations on your circuit, very nice. I'd like to have ago at making this but just have a couple of questions...

How do you select the double flash rate? Can more than one flashing LED be added?
Also I'm assuming this can be used on just the throttle channel without any other (I only have a 4 ch TX :( )

Thanks Frank

<1>If you power UP with switch in pos1 you select double flash (90 fpm) FAA
If you power UP with switch in pos2 you select one flash (45 fpm) FAA

<2>You can have more than one led connected in paraller with the other led PLUS the 70ohm resistor for the new led added.
(I will post an updates schematic as soon as return home today)
That's why I use transistor you can add more than one led when you want!

<3>YES you can use throtle.
When in SET mode you can selecet 3 positions with the throttle only (assuming you have connected THR channel in paralle with AZ navlight)

[frank48]

Hi Bitmaniac

Sorry for the delay in replying, been away to London for the weekend ( got to keep the wifey happy :) )

Thanks for the info & the updated circuit, I think I understand it a bit better now. I'll give it a try over the next week and post back to let you know how I got on.

Cheers Frank

[bitmaniac]

Hi Bitmaniac

Sorry for the delay in replying, been away to London for the weekend ( got to keep the wifey happy :) )

Thanks for the info & the updated circuit, I think I understand it a bit better now. I'll give it a try over the next week and post back to let you know how I got on.

Cheers Frank

Where do you live my friend? If you are from Europe may be I can send you one of the ready made PCBs (look first post) I have a spare or two! (for free of course :D )

and of course I am open to update the firmware with options or If you find a bug! let me know....

(P.S: Do you have any experience with Picbasic PRO?)

[bitmaniac]

As you asked for a simple pic programmer I have two links:

1.First one is similar to one I am using :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=627905

2.The second one seems to be a simple one (not tested by me)
http://www.kmitl.ac.th/~kswichit%20/ezpic/index.html

The software I am using is ICPROG (http://www.ic-prog.com/) Older but reliable
and WINPIC800 (http://www.winpic800.com/) Better than ICPROG

SEE post #9 FOR AZ_NAVLIGHTS picbasicpro SOURCE!

Note: for the flashing sequence as you will notice I use in-code delays and not using Interrupts
I am in the progress of using interrupts and in the future plans I want to use PWM to drive each led thus
reducing the total Amps more so you can have add leds and maybe small bulbs!

[frank48]

Hi Bitmanic :)

I'm in Northeast England, thanks for your kind offer.
Unfortunately i have no experience of PicBasic Pro, I'm totally new to PIC programming. Can you recommend any tutorials on the web as I am keen to learn :rolleyes:

Cheers Frank

[phil_g]

http://www.winpicprog.co.uk/pic_tutorial.htm

[frank48]

Thanks Phil :) Looks really useful!

Cheers Frank

[Malc C]

Hi Bitmanic :)
Can you recommend any tutorials on the web as I am keen to learn :rolleyes:

Cheers Frank

Frank,

PicBasic Pro is very easy to pick up. Have a look at the manual (http://www.melabs.com/resources/pbpmanual/) and I'm sure that you could be writing your first "flash a LED" program in no time at all. there is also a very active and supportive forum (http://www.picbasic.co.uk/forum/) if you get stuck

You can get started for less than £20 by using a commercial JDM type programmer and free software found on the web (such as microcode studio, PICpgm and MPlab from Microchip), however PicBasic Pro isn't cheap.

[rmteo]

Another option is this one:
http://www.oshonsoft.com/pic.html

You can get a free, no restriction download for 30 days. It has a full featured simulator with a nice range of peripherals to play with. Costs about 1/3 of the Pro. The manual is here:
http://www.oshonsoft.com/picbasiccompiler.html

[fireblade5437]

Hi Bitmanic

Thanks for the PM, nearly done circuit does it look ok?
Just waiting for transistors.

Alan

[fireblade5437]

BITMANIC

I have finished the circuit and they work 100% Have also re-done pcb to get smaller and two strobe outputs etc.

Thanks for the design will post some more pics once fitted to my planes.

Alan

[bitmaniac]

BITMANIC

I have finished the circuit and they work 100% Have also re-done pcb to get smaller and two strobe outputs etc.

Thanks for the design will post some more pics once fitted to my planes.

Alan

I am REALLY pleased to learn that you tried and you are satisfied with my little project.
Don't hasitate to inform me of any help for a custom code to your needs although my time is a little bit short for the moment I will be very intersted in sending a photo of my lights installed ! ;)

(and remember ... you can only connect leds directly to pic (one to each output -max 20 mah per pin) for a really tinny pcb)

[bitmaniac]

New updated firmware with enhanced features... :D

AZ_NAV_LIGHTS features and setup (firmware v 2.2)
------------------------------------------------------

Features:
-----------

(*) μController RISC power at 4Mhz!
(*) max load per output 500mAh
(*) 2 Navigation Lights RED (Left Wing) GREEN (Right Wing) leds
(*) 1 Strobe light WHITE led
(*) Selectable Strobe Light flashes (45 flashes or 90 double flashes / min)
(*) Auto detect/adjust reverse or normal TX operation
(*) Set mode : detect Throttle or Switch positions for Lights OFF-LAND OFF-LAND ON
(*) Receiver switched OFF detection
(*) Store setting to on-board eeprom
(*) Default pre-programmed values: Low Position (1000mSec) Middle position (1400mSEC).

Programming:
--------------

<> If you keep throttle (or 3-pos switch) HIGH while power-up selects 45fpm strobe light.

<> If you keep throttle (or 3-pos switch) LOW while power-up selects 90 double fpm strobe

light.

<> If SET jumper ON while Power ON ALL lights blink 4 times.
LEFT & RIGHT Wing Lights ON (for 2 seconds) : stores position 1 (use throttle or 3-pos switch)
LANDING Lights ON(for 2 seconds) : stores position 2 (use throttle or 3-pos switch)
-all these values are stored to on board eeprom
-DON'T forget to move SET jumper to OFF after finish.

<> ALL lights start Blinking (200ms interval) Receiver has NO POWER.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------

[fireblade5437]

Hi Bitmaniac

Here is picture of my latest pcb with regulator for my jet working on version 2.2

Have put 2 strobes ie i have 6 outputs for the leds.

regards

Alan

[frank48]

Hi
I've tried making 5 of these boards up to now using a Minolta magicolour2 laser printer and glossy magazine paper - with no success :( . Anyone got any hints or tips as to what is going wrong???

Thanks folks :rolleyes:

[jesolins]

What exactly are your issues? Are you having trouble transfering the print from the paper to the board?? I use Epson glossy photo inkjet paper, not sure what magazine paper is?
Cheers,
Jim
Hi
I've tried making 5 of these boards up to now using a Minolta magicolour2 laser printer and glossy magazine paper - with no success :( . Anyone got any hints or tips as to what is going wrong???

Thanks folks :rolleyes:

[fireblade5437]

Hi Frank
Have sent a pm to you.



Hi
I've tried making 5 of these boards up to now using a Minolta magicolour2 laser printer and glossy magazine paper - with no success :( . Anyone got any hints or tips as to what is going wrong???

Thanks folks :rolleyes:

[Malc C]

Hi
I've tried making 5 of these boards up to now using a Minolta magicolour2 laser printer and glossy magazine paper - with no success :( . Anyone got any hints or tips as to what is going wrong???

Thanks folks :rolleyes:

1) - make sure the driver settings is set to the darkest option.
2) - the glossy coating varies from magazine to magazine, chances are the one you are using isn't transferring the toner well enough.
3) - you are not using enough heat / presure to transfer the tonner - I've used 0.8mm copper through a hot roll laminator with excellent results every time.
4) - if you can widen the tracks so that there is less risk of pitting breaking them
5) - try using the blue press and peel or other film based transfer medium ( http://www.pulsarprofx.com/PCB/a_Pages/1_Menu/overview.html ) I found the press and peel stuff works the best as it not only transferrs the tonner, but seals it in one process.

Hope that helps

[fireblade5437]

The LED's i used are from

http://www.led1.de/shop/index.php?cName=superflux-3chip-highpower-c-74&xploidID=82973a099ab4bcd119ae852cff3cb3d9

These LED's have a 3 chip design and wide viewing angle and are ideal for RC application.

Thanks must go to Bitmaniac for the hours he has spent writing the program :D


1. Resistor value for green nav light 47 Ohms
2. Resistor value for red nav light 56 Ohms
3. Resistor value for landing lights 47 Ohms
4. Resistor for strobe lights 56 Ohms

all 0.25W

[frank48]

Hi

Jesolins - parts of the print are sticking to the board but not others giving a "patchy" transfer - I'll try epson paper

Malc - I'll try the darkest setting and different paper. I had the iron on maximum heat, it was so hot it made the board painful to pick up :censored: :eek:

Fireblade - thanks for the PM

I'll report back when I have some success :)

Frank

[jesolins]

Frank,
Try to preheat the board too. I use a ceramic type heater and position the copper side of the board so the heat is blowing on it for about 5 minutes, then I iron on the transfer to the pcb. Use a Sharpie permanent marker to fix any traces that might not have transfered.
Cheers,
Jim
Hi

Jesolins - parts of the print are sticking to the board but not others giving a "patchy" transfer - I'll try epson paper

Malc - I'll try the darkest setting and different paper. I had the iron on maximum heat, it was so hot it made the board painful to pick up :censored: :eek:

Fireblade - thanks for the PM

I'll report back when I have some success :)

Frank

[Malc C]

The other thing is to make sure the copper is very clean, both physically and chemically (ie no grease). I use 1200 grade wet n dry under soapy washing up liquid, the dry the board with paper towel and leave it on top of the laminator to warm through before appying the toner print

[fireblade5437]

Hi Bitmaniac and Frank

Just finished making new PCB's and used 'Staples' Glossy Photo Colour Laser Paper 180g/m £6.99 for 50 x A4
and got perfect results :-)

Alan

ps: only used a small travel iron which i use for profilm as totally smooth surface and also was able to rip paper off after being in water warm water for only about 30 seconds.



Hi

Jesolins - parts of the print are sticking to the board but not others giving a "patchy" transfer - I'll try epson paper

Malc - I'll try the darkest setting and different paper. I had the iron on maximum heat, it was so hot it made the board painful to pick up :censored: :eek:

Fireblade - thanks for the PM

I'll report back when I have some success :)

Frank

[Malc C]

Hi
I've tried making 5 of these boards up to now using a Minolta magicolour2 laser printer and glossy magazine paper - with no success :( . Anyone got any hints or tips as to what is going wrong???

Thanks folks :rolleyes:
Looking at the nice images that Alan has just posted the tracks appear broad enough so that pitting wouldn't cause a problem.

Frank, assuming the issues you are having are not related to toner transfer , then I can only assume that its electrical issues, and one possible cause could be shorts between tracks. The area I would check out has been circled in the attached image.

Alan,

Nice looking boards, love to see writing etched into a board :)

[fireblade5437]

Malc

Thanks for your comments, i do not think there is any point making tracks any thinner, i was amazed how i could pull paper off quite roughly and it took quite a bit of scrubbing to get print off which was very strong!

Alan



Looking at the nice images that Alan has just posted the tracks appear broad enough so that pitting wouldn't cause a problem.

Frank, assuming the issues you are having are not related to toner transfer , then I can only assume that its electrical issues, and one possible cause could be shorts between tracks. The area I would check out has been circled in the attached image.

Alan,

Nice looking boards, love to see writing etched into a board :)

[Malc C]

Alan, I wasn't suggesting you made tracks thinner, it was just an observation in that if Frank hadn't etched the board well enough, that area could result in possible shorts.

Not sure what application you used, but Eagle will warn you if the clearances are too tight. - But like I said - they are nice lookingn boards - Well done

Of course, you can also use the toner transfer method to print the "silk screen" as per the attached images :)

[frank48]

oops double post!

[frank48]

Hi
I'm now getting a bit p :censored: d off with this. I've tried all the different kinds of paper I have and epson glossy worked out best (just used the last sheet :( ) but still not good

With the other papers ie photo matt etc the toner didn't seem to want to come off the paper - anyone else found this? - or could it be density of toner on the paper?

I think there may have been some kind of polish or something in the wifes kitchen cleaners as washing up liquid and wire wool cleaned the board best.

The printers acting up now - its creasing & wrinkling the paper as it comes out :mad: Think I'll try with an etch resist pen :rolleyes:

Nice boards Alan & Malc I'd be really chuffed to make one like that !!!

Thanks again guys :)

Frank

PS anyone know why its wrinkling the paper?? :confused:

[frank48]

Alan - why do you use 2 capacitors on the strobe outputs?

Thanks Frank

[Malc C]

Frank,

Firstly, are you using genuine manufactures toner cartridge in your laser printer ? I used a refill once (as the real toner was almost as expensive as the printer) and the results when pcb making was really poor, with the problems you are describing. I've gone back to using genuine Samsung toner cartridges now and the results are fantastic.

The creasing can be caused by the coating on the paper reacting to the heat. Remember inkjet paper is not designed to get hot. If using magazine paper this often curls and crinkles due to its thinness. - the other thing to watch is that the backing to the papers don't melt - so test using the tip of an iron (replacing your wifes iron can work out cheaper than a new printer).

If your board is really clean then the issue is either the tonner or the heat and presure used to apply it to the board. Like I said before, I use 0.8mm board and a laminator to get over this - a couple of passes is all that is needed to produce the boards shown above. The only drawback is that the boards are fine for small light components, but if you have relays, or transformers etc, then they tend to flex a tad too much.

[fireblade5437]

Hi Frank

Yes i know i could have used one just thought i would double up or do you think it's not needed?

Alan



Alan - why do you use 2 capacitors on the strobe outputs?

Thanks Frank

[fireblade5437]

Hi Malc

Ok understand :-)

How do you get the white print on? Do you have to change the toner cartridge?
have not done that before. I am using Proteus Pro 7 software.

regards

Alan


Alan, I wasn't suggesting you made tracks thinner, it was just an observation in that if Frank hadn't etched the board well enough, that area could result in possible shorts.

Not sure what application you used, but Eagle will warn you if the clearances are too tight. - But like I said - they are nice lookingn boards - Well done

Of course, you can also use the toner transfer method to print the "silk screen" as per the attached images :)

[Malc C]

Hi Malc

How do you get the white print on?
have not done that before.

regards

Alan

I aquired a sample roll of some toner reactive film from a specialist film supplier when I looked into selling PCB consumables a few years back, but I'm sure you can get this from any good craft retailer such as Hobbystores

You simply print the legend in mirror fasion from the application onto the paper (your staples stuff should do the trick, assuming it leaves the toner and not the coating), then place the film over the pcb and apply the iron. The coating on the film sticks to the toner when your peel it off.

Try contacting http://www.foilco.co.uk/ if you cant find any

[bitmaniac]

I would like to thank fireblade5437 who was one of the first people
that tried my circuit on his jets and also debuged my firmware 2.2.

He noticed problems on his MX22 and JR9x TX when you are using throttle (for activating navlights) near the middle position -lights starts flashing.

PLEASE I WOULD ALSO LIKE FEEDBACKS FROM OTHER MEMBERS WITH OTHER BRANDS FUTABA, HITEC e.t.c so we could check other bugs in my firmware

I am working in firmware updates IF I manage to find a little more time ;)

(Thanks everyone who tried out and made my pcb and checked firmware 2.2)

[frank48]

Hi :)

I would like to thank all the guys who helped me through this project.

I finally made the board using an etch resist pen.... :rolleyes: and completed the project this evening. It is working perfectly and I have programmed it through the transmitter. :D

Throttle off - all lights off
Throttle full on - Nav lights and strobes
Throttle on to half power - Nav lights, strobes, and landing lights
As throttle reduces to off all lights remain on until fully off

Brilliant !! I slightly modified the board to have two strobes and also used BC337 transistors, they are easier to buy and much cheaper! ( beware 500ma max )

I am using v2.2 of the program and its working OK with my hitech gear

Thanks again Bitmaniac youv'e done a great job - and thanks for sharing

Cheers Frank

[Acetronics]

Hi, Frank

Thanks for Alexandros, he has done good work ...


BUT ... new firmware improvements are to come !!!

Let's Caesar what's Caesar's .... Ooops,sorry ... Ulixes what's Ulixe's !!! and let's wait a little moment for him.

Alain

[bitmaniac]

...so a useful note by FRANK48
you can use BC337 transistors cheaper and easier to find....
Thank you Frank for your notice

[ithaqua]

Hi Bitmaniac,

Very good job!!!
I'm learning pic programming (slowly), and would like to know if you could give me the source code. I ask that because it's interresting to see how you wrote the program, and I have an other reason: All is ok on your navlights, but I would have prefered rotating beacons instead of landing gear (airwolf project).
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=GUIg2E3BaEE
Well, I know you spent a lot of time on this, so I'd understand if you don't accept to share the source code. Now, if you accept, I'll share my mods with you of course

Greetings from france

Sylvain

[Acetronics]

Hi, Sylvain

you already had the "source" some posts before ...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=1604235

Now, the mod' to have "pseudo" rotating beacons is a nice piece of cake for a PbP beginner ...

Good luck with it.

Greetings from France ( Also ...yes )

Alain

[bitmaniac]

Hi ithaqua

Well the only source I can provide is the one Acetronic mentioned above.

fading strobe would be very interested (you can use pwm on the led to fade it in and out) ...may be some day I 'll include this neat effect but for the moment I have to spend my time to another project CHEERS!.. :rolleyes:

[Acetronics]

Hi,

Woawwww .... :rolleyes:

Did not think to the "Pause 650" in the listing !!!

replacing it by the fading cycle will do it ... :D

Hé,hé

you're to get it, my friends !!! :p

Alain

[ithaqua]

Hi ithaqua

Well the only source I can provide is the one Acetronic mentioned above.

fading strobe would be very interested (you can use pwm on the led to fade it in and out) ...may be some day I 'll include this neat effect but for the moment I have to spend my time to another project CHEERS!.. :rolleyes:

It's why i want to do it by myself, and share it when it'll be done ;)

Sylvain

[Acetronics]

Hi, Everybody :)

The lasts AZLights enhancements are there ;) ....

Alexandros & Alain

[Malc C]

Hi,

Looks great and thanks for sharing the project with us. Just an observation on the schematic, GP4 is left floating, which isn't an ideal practice. Normally all un-used pins are tied to ground, or to +ve via 10K resistors.

So when are you going to make it open source and publish the picBasic code ;)

[Malc C]

Now, the mod' to have "pseudo" rotating beacons is a nice piece of cake for a PbP beginner ...

Alain

Hi Alain,

Note that i didn't really get into this thread, which is strange given my past obsession with flashing LEDS :) :)

I guess if you used pwm to ramp up and down the brightness of LEDs, then using say 5 LEDs all facing outwards in a ring, would look cool. The trick would be to get the timing right, so that the next LED starts ramping up before the previous LED has fully ramped down so as to get a "trailing" effect.

It would be a lot easier using bulbs as they naturally fade up and down as they warm and cool :)

[Acetronics]

Hi,

1) GP4 is left floating, which isn't an ideal practice. Normally all un-used pins are tied to ground, or to +ve via 10K resistors.

2) So when are you going to make it open source and publish the picBasic code ;)

Hi, Malc

Was a long time We didn't hear of you ... Have a happy new year.

Now, The answers ...

1) YOU LOSE :
" TRISIO =%00101000 'set GPIO3 & GPIO5 as inputs " : nothing floats , except the ice cube upon the famous scotch whisky you MUST offer us ...

2) I do not think we ( Alex and me ) will leave the source open ... too many people make money with those "achieved" programs.

I remenber having found many devices, sold in brazilian, Thailandese or chinese model shops, whose source was genltly given by their authors on the web ...

The source publishing will be done " from friends to friens" ... only. so we decided !!!

Alain

For modellers like us, Copyright is just a view of mind

[bitmaniac]

... 2) I do not think we ( Alex and me ) will leave the source open ... too many people make money with those "achieved" programs.

I remenber having found many devices, sold in brazilian, Thailandese or chinese model shops, whose source was genltly given by their authors on the web ...

The source publishing will be done " from friends to friens" ... only. so we decided !!!

Alain

For modellers like us, Copyright is just a view of mind

Hi! Malc C and Acetronics !

I will COMPLETELY agree with Acetronics about not leaving the source open (epscially v3) with ALL bugs fixed , fail safe ,auto calibration...e.t.c

I had post the source of the very first version ONLY for giving anyone here a start to explore my little project!

This is the last (I hope) Version v3 of this pcb (tip: fading lights!???...maybe).
I would also really like to thanks ACETRONICS for his excellent Knowledge of PBP pro and for helping me improve my firmware even further.

Have a nice time all you out there! See you! :D

(P.S: First post updated)

[bitmaniac]

Sorry I didn't mention it!Programming method has
changed too!

NEW METHOD AS FOLLOWS:

1. SET throttle to POS1
2. JUMPER ON
All lights blink 4 Times (PROGRAMMING MODE)

3. JUMPER OFF
4. JUMPER ON
5. SET throttle to POS2
6. JUMPER OFF
4. JUMPER ON
7. Select single flash if <= pos1
or select double if >=pos1
8. JUMPER OFF

if OK Wing Lights ON for .5 sec

It is not so complicated as it looks!!!

[Malc C]

Hi, Malc

Was a long time We didn't hear of you ... Have a happy new year.


;) just been busy with other things and not had much time for RC or electronics recently :( - a belated Happy New Year to you too



Now, The answers ...

1) YOU LOSE :
" TRISIO =%00101000 'set GPIO3 & GPIO5 as inputs " : nothing floats ,


Ahhh that would explain it

except the ice cube upon the famous scotch whisky you MUST offer us ...

LOL - thought your were tea total :D



2) I do not think we ( Alex and me ) will leave the source open ... too many people make money with those "achieved" programs.

I remenber having found many devices, sold in brazilian, Thailandese or chinese model shops, whose source was genltly given by their authors on the web ...

The source publishing will be done " from friends to friens" ... only. so we decided !!!

Alain


It was meant to be a bit toung in cheek, but you are oh so right about projects been ripped of and then commercialised in the far east !

[elan22]

Looks like just the kind of project I was looking for, I looked at the RC-CAM nav lights but was just short of what I needed. I'll be trying this one as soon as I get my pics delivered.
One question I have for you: in your schematic the circuit is powered off the rx but I want to have it run off a seperate pack for safty. would I have to share a common gnd between the pack gnd and the servo signal gnd?
Again, great project you've put together.
Thanks.

[Acetronics]

Looks like just the kind of project I was looking for, I looked at the RC-CAM nav lights but was just short of what I needed. I'll be trying this one as soon as I get my pics delivered.
One question I have for you: in your schematic the circuit is powered off the rx but I want to have it run off a seperate pack for safty. would I have to share a common gnd between the pack gnd and the servo signal gnd?
Again, great project you've put together.
Thanks.

Hi Elan :)

YES, You'll have to share ground in order the signal from the receiver to find it's "return path" ...

just be sure not to apply more than 6.0v - 6v5 to AZLights ... Or the Pic Processor won't appreciate ... :eek:


After reading your post I think I'll raise a special PCB for external supply ( any voltage ) and Rx Opto-insulation ... ;)

Keep on the line ... it comes !!!

Alain

[Acetronics]

Hi, Christmas flying trees Lovers ;)

Now ...

You can choose between the Rx Batt and a dedicated Batt to Power your AZLights !!! :p

the two sets of scheme/placement and PCB are Available and have been added to the Post #53 Download File. :)

NOTE : - "AzLights" is the Rx powered version AND has common Ground between RX and AZLights.

- "AZLights_ext" is the dedicated Batt Version and is FULLY isolated from the Rx and servos.

See the .DOC file of the Download for further details.

Thanks to All

Alexandros and Alain

[Disarray]

Does this look like it would do the job for the pic programmer? Ye olde eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/PIC-16F84-24CXX-Simple-E-Eprom-programmer_W0QQitemZ310025710169QQihZ021QQcategory Z4661QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

or this? (http://cgi.ebay.com/40-ZIF-USB-Interface-Microchip-PIC-Programmer-Kit-149_W0QQitemZ310024907896QQihZ021QQcategoryZ4661QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

[Malc C]

Does this look like it would do the job for the pic programmer? Ye olde eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/PIC-16F84-24CXX-Simple-E-Eprom-programmer_W0QQitemZ310025710169QQihZ021QQcategory Z4661QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Nope !

It only list one format of PIC the 16*84. Also the 18F2550 is a 28 pin device so there would be no physical way of pluging that in to that board.

You would be better off getting the PG-02
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/images/PG2C-1.jpg

$13.95 from sparkfun (http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8)

[Malc C]

or this? (http://cgi.ebay.com/40-ZIF-USB-Interface-Microchip-PIC-Programmer-Kit-149_W0QQitemZ310024907896QQihZ021QQcategoryZ4661QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Better choice of the two -

[Disarray]

Thank you.

[Malc C]

Try Googling for Microchip's PicKIT2 programmer - it's around the same price and supports loads of PICs. Also being Microchip it has excellent support and compatibility with the MPLAB software.

[David Parry]

I really like the look of this project, and intend using it for a small scale heli, but I dont have a laser printer available. Does anyone have a couple of the ext pcb's they would be willing to sell? also looking to get either the Microchip's PicKIT2 programmer or have seen this one which has leds built into it so could test the program easier. But it is about £ 10 ($20) more, and needs a external power supply, which I do have.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=48074&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=pic&doy=9m3
I could get it unbuilt for £ 21 ($ 42).

[Malc C]

Dave,

The maplin kit is a good buy as it not only provides the programmer, it is also a basic (somewhat limited) development board to allow you you test simple switches and LED circuits. It also supports ICSP, and as no firmware is required, should cover most of the PICs you may use.

Velleman kits are easy to assemble and have excellent instructions, so even a person with novice soldering skills should be OK in the build, just take your time.

I'm sure Alain or one of the others may be able to help with the PCB - I'm out of toner and etchant at the moment :(

[Acetronics]

Hi, David

I have a HP Laser printer home ( especially bought for this use )... but awful work !!! :eek:

Sooooo, I use my CANON i865 inkjet Printer :) with transparent polyester film for Overhead projectors ...

http://www.microapp.com/papier_film_transparent_pour_retroprojecteur_5055. html?menu=4

( A4 2880 dpi max resolution )

or

FOLEX BG32+

Result is PERFECT and 5 mils ( ! ) traces are a realty ...

For the programmer ... ;) The Pickit2 is a real Value !!! DO NOT HESITATE !!!

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/Market_Communication/PICkit.doc

Alain

PS: I also have 3 "external supply" PCBs left here ...

[jesolins]

Hi,
Wow this sounds great! How are you transfering your inkjet transparancy traces to the pcb?? Does the ink somehow bind to the coating on the transparancy and then transfer to the pcb? What method do you use? Photolithography preped pcb's? Or untreated pcb's using ironing heat to pcb transfer? If so, how much heat/time/board prep? Did you find that only this transparancy maufacturer's coating worked with this method?
Cheers,
Jim
Hi, David

I have a HP Laser printer home ( especially bought for this use )... but awful work !!! :eek:

Sooooo, I use my CANON i865 inkjet Printer :) with transparent polyester film for Overhead projectors ...

http://www.microapp.com/papier_film_transparent_pour_retroprojecteur_5055. html?menu=4

( A4 2880 dpi max resolution )

or

FOLEX BG32+

Result is PERFECT and 5 mils ( ! ) traces are a realty ...

For the programmer ... ;) The Pickit2 is a real Value !!! DO NOT HESITATE !!!

http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/Market_Communication/PICkit.doc

Alain

PS: I also have 3 "external supply" PCBs left here ...

[Acetronics]

Hi, Jesolins

Of course I use the Photo method and coated PCBs ... only way ( for Hobbiyst ! ) to get precise dimensions ...

Those manufacturers are the ones I can EASILY find convenient products from !!! ( My village has 600+ citizens ...) I needed to make some tests to find something OK !!!

Ironing can't be serious, due to thermal effects on the supports ... ( same for Laser and transparent Overhead sheets !!! )

Alain

[frank48]

I really like the look of this project, and intend using it for a small scale heli, but I dont have a laser printer available. Does anyone have a couple of the ext pcb's they would be willing to sell? also looking to get either the Microchip's PicKIT2 programmer or have seen this one which has leds built into it so could test the program easier. But it is about £ 10 ($20) more, and needs a external power supply, which I do have.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=48074&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=pic&doy=9m3
I could get it unbuilt for £ 21 ($ 42).

Hi David :)

If you can't use the laser method I found the easiest way to make the board was to print the foil pattern out full size on paper, tape it to a piece of copper clad board and mark through the position of the holes with a sharp pointed object. (I used a small old screwdriver with a point ground on to it.) If you remove the paper you will then see the marks on the copper. Then use an etch resist pen to join the dots :) . It sounds harder than it is, only took me about 20 mins to do 2 boards this way.
Hope this helps you out :cool:

Frank

[jesolins]

Alain,
The photo sensitive board/injet transparancy method does sound simple with great results. I was also looking at modyfying an inkjet to print directly on plain pcb boards, similar to what has been done here: http://techref.massmind.org/techref/pcb/etch/cx4200-vs.htm
Cheers,
Jim
Hi, Jesolins

Of course I use the Photo method and coated PCBs ... only way ( for Hobbiyst ! ) to get precise dimensions ...

Those manufacturers are the ones I can EASILY find convenient products from !!! ( My village has 600+ citizens ...) I needed to make some tests to find something OK !!!

Ironing can't be serious, due to thermal effects on the supports ... ( same for Laser and transparent Overhead sheets !!! )

Alain

[jesolins]

Great KISS method Frank...how soon we forget, eh...?;)
Cheers,
Jim
Hi David :)

If you can't use the laser method I found the easiest way to make the board was to print the foil pattern out full size on paper, tape it to a piece of copper clad board and mark through the position of the holes with a sharp pointed object. (I used a small old screwdriver with a point ground on to it.) If you remove the paper you will then see the marks on the copper. Then use an etch resist pen to join the dots :) . It sounds harder than it is, only took me about 20 mins to do 2 boards this way.
Hope this helps you out :cool:

Frank

[David Parry]

Thanks guys for the replys, plenty to experiment with.
I like the idea of the maplin board as I can test the results easiliy, so will probably go down that route. Just got to think up some other uses for pics to justify buying it to her indoors. :D

[frank48]

Great KISS method Frank...how soon we forget, eh...?;)
Cheers,
Jim

H :) i Jim

Its really quite a simple layout when you look closely :p

Cheers Frank ;)

[Acetronics]

Hi, Everybody

Some issue ( just 1 ! ) having been reported with Sanwa Receivers and that could also happend with some Futaba receivers :eek: ( Servo Signal "1" level is only ~ 3.5v ),
the input stage of the "AzLights_ext" has been Modified and Building documents updated in V3 Download file. :)

Just needs extra 1N4148 Diode, 3.3k Resistor... and a new PCB.

This Mod will now allow reliable use with ALL positive output receivers ... ;)

Thanks

Alain

[frank48]

Hi, Everybody

Some issue ( just 1 ! ) having been reported with Sanwa Receivers and that could also happend with some Futaba receivers :eek: ( Servo Signal "1" level is only ~ 3.5v ),
the input stage of the "AzLights_ext" has been Modified and Building documents updated in V3 Download file. :)

Just needs extra 1N4148 Diode, 3.3k Resistor... and a new PCB.

This Mod will now allow reliable use with ALL positive output receivers ... ;)

Thanks

Alain

Hi Alan :)

The download file is not showing up.... :(

Cheers Frank

[Acetronics]

3.02 Pm

Re-Loaded Now !!!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=1802719

Alain

[elan22]

Also I'm not sure it's clear to everyone but there is a bridge on the top side of the pcb under the CNY-17 optocoupler between R11,R13 and T4 (took me a while to figure what that line was :D ) .

[bitmaniac]

Hi! to all of you out there!
Hi Acetronic, Frank and Fireblade!
(thank you Alain for helping elan22 out)

P.S for the moment I am having a couple of projects 'going on...' and have no Time! he!he! 1st project :trying to Log gps data (mouse) to MMC and 2nd project trying to 'change' picoo z receiver brain with a 12f683 to drive my actuators (for indoor flying!)

*** I have also corrected new_version by Acetronic 1st post broken link ***

[David Parry]

Managed to get one circuit built, but have a couple of probs.
first one is when I power the board up all the leds are permantly on.
cant see any bridges from soldering, so not sure what it is.
secondly didnt think it through too well, as I have a reciever and 4 in 1 board system at the mo, so cant get to the throttle output, so will have a go at learning picbasic and programing them just to flash continuously for the moment. but need to sort the first prob out, any suggestions appreciated.

[Malc C]

secondly didnt think it through too well, as I have a reciever and 4 in 1 board system at the mo, so cant get to the throttle output, so will have a go at learning picbasic and programing them just to flash continuously for the moment. but need to sort the first prob out, any suggestions appreciated.

Simply purchase a Y lead that plugs into the throttle channel on the RX, one cable from the Y lead connects to the 4-1 board and the other the lights board. This enables you to share the signal from the TX, no need to re-program the PIC

[frank48]

Dave :)

If you just need something to flash continuously check out MalC C webpage.

http://www.micro-heli.co.uk/

I made one of his first and it works great :D

Hex & circuit here - http://www.micro-heli.co.uk/Navigation%20lights.zip

Nice bloke aswell...

Cheers Frank

[frank48]

Hi Malc

Beat me to it :rolleyes:

Cheers

Frank

[Malc C]

Nice bloke aswell...

Cheers Frank

:rolleyes: awww shucks :)

Cheers Frank

[Malc C]

Managed to get one circuit built, but have a couple of probs.
first one is when I power the board up all the leds are permantly on.
cant see any bridges from soldering, so not sure what it is.

There is nothing complicated in that circuit, so I would assume that if you've etched your own PCB and used the foil enclosed in the zip file then there could be a chance that there is a short or track bridge. Hopefully you have used a DIL socket to house the PIC, if so remove it and build the circuit on a bit of strip board and see if you get the same problem.

Other possible cause could be the FET's you purchasd may have a different pin out than that used in the original. I came across this in one project where the brand of transistor I used was SDG and the board was SGD.

[Acetronics]

Hi, Malc

a nice PbP program with ON INTERRUPT used ...

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ... :censored:

cheers !!!

Alain

[Malc C]

Alain... can you make your posts lest cryptic ?

If you are referring to the code used in the link Frank recommended, it was written in ASM not PBP

[Acetronics]

Hi, David

seems your Pic Clock doesn't run ... ( looks no ports initialization done ...)

which programmer do you use ???

could you show us the Config settings, by the way ...

Alain

[David Parry]

Hi Alain, I'm using the 12F675 pic. Is innitialistation something I missed?
Where are config settings, I used the AzLights_H.HEX file
Have included a screen dump of the programmer if this helps

[Acetronics]

Alain... can you make your posts lest cryptic ?

If you are referring to the code used in the link Frank recommended, it was written in ASM not PBP



1 000 0000 NOP
2 001 2805 GOTO 0x5
3 002 3FFF ADDLW 0xff
4 003 3FFF ADDLW 0xff
5 004 0008 RETURN



It seemed to me also, but this is typically an "ON INTERRUPT" structure ...

To confirm ...

I started to write the program with PbPro ... and got EXACTLY the same ASM lines in the program window ...

Funny, no ?

Alain

[Acetronics]

Hi Alain, I'm using the 12F675 pic. Is innitialistation something I missed?
Where are config settings, I used the AzLights_H.HEX file

I asked you what programmer do you use, cause some DON'T read the config line in the HEX and it must be "HAND CONFIGURED" ...

sooo, which is your programmer ????

Alain

[frank48]

OOOps ........ :eek:

Think I'll keep quiet in future... :confused:

Frank

[David Parry]

Alain
Pickit 2 was the programmer, have included screen shot on prev post

[Acetronics]

Ok David

You use the "Heli" version ... and programming looks correct.

everything looks fine for the PIC ... but ...

NOW, verify the PIC has 5 volts on its VDD ( pin 1 ) ...

Alain

[David Parry]

4.95 V

[Acetronics]

Ok,

Got it !!!

Turn your 3 BS170 180° ...

Alain

[Malc C]

It seemed to me also, but this is typically an "ON INTERRUPT" structure ...

To confirm ...

I started to write the program with PbPro ... and got EXACTLY the same ASM lines in the program window ...

Funny, no ?

Alain

No idea, the code was produced as a training project from the guy who sold me the original PicKIT 1 some years ago... all I know is that it works :)

Ok,

Got it !!!

Turn your 3 BS170 180° ...

Alain

seems like you're following my line of thinking



Other possible cause could be the FET's you purchasd may have a different pin out than that used in the original. I came across this in one project where the brand of transistor I used was SDG and the board was SGD.