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mistel
Nov 13, 2007, 05:44 PM
I just bought an old Delta scroll saw at a flea market. I have used it with the blade that was in it, and it is very hard to cut a straight line. Now I realize that the whole point of a scroll saw is to cut sharp curves, but can I get different blades that will make it easier to cut straight lines?

Thanks

Peter

Kmot
Nov 13, 2007, 05:47 PM
My limited experience with my Ryobi scroll saw had the same results. I found that the blade has to be very tight, almost to the breaking point you will think! Even then, you must cut very carefully and very slowly to obtain that illusive straight line.

dfalcon
Nov 13, 2007, 06:01 PM
You can also clamp some sort of rail to the work surface of the saw to guide whatever it is you're cutting...

toesup
Nov 13, 2007, 06:08 PM
I just bought an old Delta scroll saw at a flea market. I have used it with the blade that was in it, and it is very hard to cut a straight line.


I have a Delta saw too and have exactly the same problem...

If you want to cut straight(ish) lines, go for the wider (front to back) blades which are about 1/8" rather than the very fine blades.. Keep the speed up and try to anticipate it wandering off line...

Prins Willem
Nov 13, 2007, 06:30 PM
A new (sharp) blade and a light touch. Let the saw do the cutting with very little pressure. Finesse is the key. I have a small Dremel scroll saw which is great for inside frames and such. I also have a 10" Craftsman band saw for straight cutting and larger radii. Wouldn't want to be without either one.

The thinness and flexibility of the blade makes it want to wander even if you have a guide. The guide restricts your ability to stay on the line because you can never be sure which way the blade will go.

Stu :)
Nov 13, 2007, 06:32 PM
Scroll Saws by nature are designed to cut 'curvy & swirly' lines and shapes.
I've got an old Dremel scroll saw, I agree with Toes and dfalcon ideas, use a wider blade and a rail, or guide to help with the straight line. I just line up the blade with the cutting point and tape a block of wood onto the saw's table/platform to rest the edge of the sheet whatever I'm cutting.

Stu :)

420TEE
Nov 13, 2007, 06:37 PM
Like most any saw it's nearly impossible to cut straight while ripping, or cutting with the grain. Rip saws have different shaped teeth than cross cut saws. I don't know if they make them for small saws. My Ryobi has the same problem. Nature of the beast I guess. Maybe someone at Allexperts.com has an answer.

patmat2350
Nov 13, 2007, 06:52 PM
A big key to improving the tracking: If using blades with mounting pins, check them for squareness to the blade and in the little holder. You'll notice that the "wander" isn't random, it's biased to one side by a fixed amount. Straightening the little pins can help.

Even better, use the non-pinned blades with the clamping jaws... but these are more of a hassle when constantly dismounting the blade to do keyhole work.

Pat M

Le petit normand
Nov 13, 2007, 07:32 PM
Well I just cut some wood this morning with my 40 $ scroll saw from ebay :o and I generally pre-cut with a cutter blade my wood to guide the saw. I am now the proud owner of some cabin part that have been cutting strait. ;)

mistel
Nov 13, 2007, 09:44 PM
Thanks for all the great replies.
I was at Home Depot and I saw some thicker saw blades, I will give them a try
Thanks

Prins Willem
Nov 13, 2007, 10:45 PM
My Dremel saw has the pins and I find if I'm not careful or paying close attention I have put the blade in the top holder and the pin isn't seated in the slot properly. I know when this happens because half way through the cut I'll hear a pop when it drops in and the blade twangs.

mistel, Let us know how it work out. Sounds like we all have a common problem.

pusar
Nov 14, 2007, 12:19 AM
I use both the Delta scroll saw and Delta band saw. I prefer the band saw since I can make straight cuts as well as curved. The guide helps to make straight cuts. There is also a opening to attatch a Shop vac to soak up all the dust while the saw is working. I end up using the band saw 90% of the time.

Marty

john_auberry
Nov 14, 2007, 11:13 AM
wide blades......very tight

Ray Farina
Nov 14, 2007, 12:04 PM
One suggestion that I have found works for me and a friend that I have suggested it to. Is to SCORE the straight line with a STRAIGHT EDGE (steel strapping works well) and a sharp knive, and score it three or four time and I have made an easy straight line. The blade with tension on it follows the scorded line. And I have gotten a lot of straight lines off my craftman scroll saw. A band saw is ok if you are stripping a sheet of wood into pieces. But you can have fun with a band saw doing other straight lines.

pusar
Nov 14, 2007, 02:58 PM
I also use several blades on the band saw for more curvy work.

green-boat
Nov 15, 2007, 01:48 AM
The inexpensive scroll saws that use pin type of blade don't provide enough blade tension. Dremel was good for this on thier scroll saws. If you could provide enough tension then the pins would fail. Try slowing your feed rate/ pressure and let the blade do the cutting also try a more agressive blade (fewer teeth per inch).

LtDoc
Nov 15, 2007, 07:24 AM
Marty,
One suggestion, make that two suggestions about the 'Delta' band saw. Set the thing up right to start with! Doing the setup after using the saw is a real PITA! (I know, but it's the first one I ever owned.)
The second suggestion is to get a few of the little plastic blade guides to start with! At least one of them is going to wear out before you know it. ('Nuther one of them "I ought'a known that" thingys) I wish the 'depth' of the arm was greater, in both directions. Usually means I didn't 'pre-plan' enough, right? Got a feeling that I'm not the only one who'z run into that, oh well.
And don't misunderstand! I like it! Certainly easier than what I had to do 'before' I got it.
- 'Doc

you know, if they sold 'experience' along with the saw, I'da got some too!