RV Nord Icelandia.

[Ghost 2501]

purchased second hand, part built, this free plan of an OSV has interesting posibilities :)

[smart_racer]

That looks good..what is the size?

[Kmot]

I think you are going to be in the tug business, ghost!! :D

[Ghost 2501]

smart racer, she is about the same size as the Graupner neptun, a little under 30" long.

Nord Icelandia looks to be an Offshore Supply Vessel, used by the oil industry, probably wouldn't tow very well at all. So I was thinking of something like a submersible carrier.

[Ghost 2501]

roof sorted out, once cabin is glazed, then roof will be glued down permanent

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

It's a good looking boat, I am suprised you
didn't install twin rudders and drives.

[Ghost 2501]

Thanks umi :D it was an ebay special, rudder port was already in there as is the shaft apperture, so saves me hassle. :)

[J-Elsy]

Hi there Ghosty - as promised - two photographs of the Seaforth Conqueror - took these the other day at the Lake (when I was 'chilling out'). :) She has got two 540 High drain Johnson motors in her - driving twin 30 mm props in fixed kortz nozzles. She has an onboard mixer in. She also has a bow thruster in.

Now....I have been going through some of my books and plans and I am sure I have a plan for the model you have got. Or, I do have something very similar.

I think, personally, it may pay you to spend a little time to go for a twin prop shaft option. At the end of the day, I think you will have a lot more fun with this drive system. It will give you a lot more pulling power (as in bollard pull) and it will also make the vessel highly manouevreable. Because, looking at the model, you are going to need a good bit ballast in it. So, why not use motors and so forth - to help you outballast.

john

[Boatfox]

Pull the rudder add a small keel and make it twins. These boats tow just fine. Thats what they where made for..that and hauling junk.
Mine is at 35" with a 9" beam. Twin 400 type motors stepped down 2:1 running on 12 volts.

[Ghost 2501]

John i am thinking of installing a 9" "skip lift" on her fantail as I want her to be a sort of scientific vessel, like what Bob Ballard uses.

[Ghost 2501]

well this is her now.

she has been sanded down and painted however i'm not happy with the finish, so may need to add a layer of gel cote or some body filler. Either way its a layer of protection against water on the hull

[Ghost 2501]

I have used a base coat of Plasticote metal primer, they didn't have any plastic primer, and a super gloss red. 3 coats of each.

once the roughness is sorted, may need a skim of filler, the painting will be re-done. the super structure is primer white, and Im happy with that as is. may add a flourescent band above the bridge though

[J-Elsy]

Hi there Ghosty

use Red Oxide wet n dry - the coarsest you can get - and use a sanding block to help you - keep it wet with plenty of 'elbow grease', YOu are not the only one to make a mistake like this my mate - we have all done it! Impatience is the greatest enemy of modelling/any hobby. Rub it back - fill where need to be filled - make sure its lovely and smooth when you are finished.

Ghosty you are lucky the model is only 30 inches long - wait until its 40 foot long - seriously, when its 40 foot long and the paint job goes drastically wrong - that is when you sit down and cry yer eyes out.

Go on get on sanded down - it will look super duper when its finished my mate.

John

[Ghost 2501]

time for a rub down

[Ghost 2501]

well even with some 260 sheet that was ready to hand, its made a bit of a difference, yes I grabbed what ever was to hand!

[J-Elsy]

Ghosty, make sure your mind is on the job, your hands are on the sandpaper/wet'n'dry and your computer is turned off :) and you are not msn 'ing ;)

john

[Ghost 2501]

well thats after 30 mins rubbing,

shouldnt take much more to get it that smooth.

[Ghost 2501]

well its rubbed down, much better than before, not totally perfect, but a LOT better than before.

[Ghost 2501]

pics. not perfect but better than before

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

Looks so much better... http://www.shipmodels.info/mwphpBB2/images/smiles/PRAISE_Thumbs_Up_1.gif

Did you have to do much filling, or did you just take down all the high spots?

[Ghost 2501]

Thanks Umi,

what I did was sand the living daylights out of it to level the surface. no filler used, just 3 10x12" sanding paper fine grade. she still has microscopic pitting though but thats livable

[Ghost 2501]

At Blackpool Model boat show over the weekend, I took the opportunity to make some progress on Nord Icelandia.

the original plan was to have the A frame on her fan tail working BUT a bulkhead in the way scuppered that plan! however should some method come arund to enable me to do that I have kept the pivots free, all that will need replacing are the two "hydraulic rams", as to stop the frame collapsing they are glued up. they can however be removed as they are not glued to the hull or A-frame

[bigford]

ghost clean your camera lens :D
the build is looking great so far i really like the boom arm set up

[Ghost 2501]

Thanks Bigford, the camera does get grubby.

Im a bit gutted about the A-frame not being able to be worked, however there's time yet to get that cured. as for the Rams that would work a similar unit on a real ship, they're just plastic tube with aluminum tube down the centre

jobs left to do.

1/ Solder suppresors to motor
2/ wire motor to esc
3/ paint aft cabin block and decks
4/ paint cranes and A-frame
5/ paint zodiac and install white metal parts
6/ ballast her out.
7/ sail her
8/ paint lower hull in primer to simulate antifouling paint.
9/ decals
10/ final varnish

[bigford]

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q162/bigfordf550/rammotor.jpg

sorry for the lame pic it's not my thing but you will get the idea
motor spins a long screw with a nut pressed into a tube
that tube is inside or outside of another tube that will now go in and out
or in you case boom up or down. you need to make two of these set ups
one for each side of the a-arm

[Ghost 2501]

thats something to consider :) thanks Bigford.

for now see how she sails, another idea was a flexible control arm mounted to the aluminum tube then to a sail winch.

[Ghost 2501]

one idea that has been sugested is a constant loop, going from the bottom of the A-frame, round a winch drum, and up through the hydraulic ram and down the other side of the arm

[green-boat]

If you could hide the moving parts, how about a worm gear on the bottom of the arm near the pivot. Or should I say past the pivot point, more under the deck. This would give you a nice slow motion short of using actual hydraulics.

[Ghost 2501]

sounds feasable, :) however butchering the hull to fit the gear can wait till next year, I want to get her sailing first, Saturday's plan is to make all the electrical connections, then paint the deck. as for the cabin space that will also get done as well if its warm enouth.

colour scheme white s/structure, yellow cranes

[Ghost 2501]

Nord Icelandia has sailed under her own power for the first time :)

Initialy the motor I purchased, a higher torque version of the one i have in the neptun proved to be inefective in propelling, this was rectified by a 380 MFA i had around.

Nord Icelandia likes to roll in the corners, this may be because of her shape and high bow, however she looks good on the water.

[Ghost 2501]

old pens DO have a new use, especially when you hack at them with a saw. the 4 exhaust cans and the support for the crane are made from the outer casing of an old biro

[Ghost 2501]

some more work has been done to the ship, the addition of a set of bridge wings that when finished will also form the lifeboat deck at the same time

[Ghost 2501]

I've decided to have a go at building a NEW superstructure for the ship to replace the current one. so some new Plasticard will be ordered and if I can get a piece of scrap wood about 6" in length, some clever cladding will have that become the bridge

[Ghost 2501]

well I've started it.

work has come to a stop at the moment due to a shortage of styrene sheet

[Ghost 2501]

well My plastic has arrived... so some of the new pannels have been placed onto the hull

[Ghost 2501]

The work for the ship's new superstructure is totally freehand, no plans used, just a knife and a steel measuring rule along with some Cyano.

At the rear of the super structure, there is currently no deck installed. This area of the ship is going to have the ships life raft canisters, which I believe are located on rails to enable them to fall into the water. perhaps someone can correct or confirm me on this. As the hull has just 1 screw, it is only going to have 1 funnel, offset to one side.

[Ghost 2501]

The final shape of the super structure is now becoming to be somewhat like how I want it, and now she is displaying her name on her bow, NORD ICELANDIA.

Next to go on are the funnels and the other details such as railings, companionways and other decks.

[Aerominded]

Neat superstructure change, Ghosty! Your "RV" is looking great! :)

[Ghost 2501]

thanks Aerominded.

When the mast and funnel are installed it will look better but yeah its comming on! :)

The superstructure aft is also going to have a mast on it as well, only a stubby to get the stern light above the lift frame.

can't paint anything yet as its too cold to airbrush, external temp has been around 7c which is quite cold.

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

The new bridge work is nice...excellent job Ghost.

However, now you will have to build
a new boat for the old bridge.... :p

[Ghost 2501]

thanks Umi. :)

believe it or not this is my first attempt at scratch work. in the building of the superstructure all i had to go off was a shape in my head, no plans at all, just some styrene sheet, steel rule, glue and a hobby knife.

[Aerominded]

thanks Umi. :)

... in the building of the superstructure all i had to go off was a shape in my head, no plans at all, just some styrene sheet, steel rule, glue and a hobby knife.


That is often the most enjoyable building! :) Again, you've done a nice job!

[Ghost 2501]

That is often the most enjoyable building! :) ...

yup you got that right!

[Ghost 2501]

to do the windows on the bridge My Idea is simple.

clad over the main part of the bridge are two strips of styrene sheet, with two pannels on each side. these form a recessed strip. this recessed strip will ultimately be painted BLACK, then on top of that styrene stripping laid out to form the frames between the glass, thus giving the illusion of windows!

On the sides of the superstructure the windows will be drilled out and glazed in from behind. this will allow it then to be back lit should i so choose to do so

[Aerominded]

But... we won't be able to see the microwave and coffee pot if you just paint the windows on! ;) :)

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

If you haven't considered placing a coffee pot and microwave on your model boat,...

You haven't visited RCgroups! http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/statusicon/forum_new.gif

[Rex R]

I'm wondering when someone is going to put a small smoke unit in the coffee pot so it will appear to be 'steaming' hot :)

[Ghost 2501]

umi, i think i know what your next project is, a radio control microwave oven!

anyways Nord Icelandia with her new bridge was able to see the water, which was rather choppy and I didnt intend on hanging around.

She seemed to wander a lot, though that may bebcause of the wind combined with a flat bottom, so a bilge keel set may be a good idea, however apart from that she sailed pretty well, and sat level enough.

I could only get one pic of her as the batteries in my camera died

[Ghost 2501]

a couple of pics of how she is at this moment. just awaiting mast and railings now, this will be done soon when some new material is aquired for the mast

[Kmot]

Already got wet?? Man you don't waste any time! :p

[Ghost 2501]

nope I dont waste time! :D :D :D she has already had sailing with her old superstructure, but now she has her new superstructure baptized.

My filler is on the way now in the post so that will mean that I will be able to prep for painting soon.

[Ghost 2501]

once the painting is done, she will take on a new character as well, and will be VASTLY improved, however as it is so cold here for outdoor spraying, she is going to be done with brushes and tins, the old fashioned way.

Im looking at a cream or offwhite superstructure, grey decks, and orange bridge band. Initially I was thinking of a RED bridge area though, though unsure if it will work with the off-white

[Ghost 2501]

a little more progress, this time the extention of the deck to allow room for a safety boat or small inflatable

[Ghost 2501]

After looking at several gantry frames on similar ships, the old one looked a bit large, so it has been remodelled.

There is still work to do on the Gantry frame, particularly a heavy duty brace bar at the top, and the the fitment of a winch pulley

[Ghost 2501]

gantry frame complete, save for filling now.

tomorrow I start on the mast

[Aerominded]

Looking good! :)

a keel should help with the directional stability... :)

[Ghost 2501]

hopefully

My Mast is also wierd as well, designed by me, though at the moment, wires will have to be run externally up it as the base is hollow. its a 45 degree main arm turning vertical, with a round support member. I cant photograph it right now as the glue is drying.

will post pics when dry

[Ghost 2501]

Glue dried sufficiently to allow me to handle the mast, this is it, a dog-leg mast

[Ghost 2501]

the mast is now dry enough to place on the bridge, just needs its top piece added now to blank it of.

[Ghost 2501]

well painting has started. next comes the task of the window frames

[Ghost 2501]

windows frames :) thats enough work for today!!

[Ghost 2501]

...progress. now even her Zodiac is in place.

[Ghost 2501]

this is her current state as of 19:00.

railings and detailing now needed, this will ultimately include painting her insides black and then glazing from behind.

1/ Companionway handrails.

2/ Bulwarks, (for ease I am going to ise straight sheet type, similar to what is on Celestia.

3/ Liferaft drop tracks

4/ painting of cabin roof

5/ painting of decks to match all over, currently its just undercoat

6/ tidying up of paintwork on funnel.

7/ installation of radar seeker head and support pole. this should rotate on the servo underneath

[Ghost 2501]

1/ Companionway handrails.

2/ Bulwarks, (for ease I am going to ise straight sheet type, similar to what is on Celestia. - DONE

3/ Liferaft drop tracks - DONE

4/ painting of cabin roof

5/ painting of decks to match all over, currently its just undercoat

6/ tidying up of paintwork on funnel.

7/ installation of radar seeker head and support pole. this should rotate on the servo underneath


for the doors, I plan to use regular ABS cut and sanded to shape, then drilled in the middle for a window, I just need some sizes now to work with.

Any takers?

[Ghost 2501]

nothing more simple today, her double UJ coupling was replaced by a a small section of 2mm rod linked by nylon tubes

[Ghost 2501]

Nord Icelandia went to the lake today, now that she is virtually complete, running with the new Nylon coupling she is proving to be MUCH quieter on the water.

It has been noticed that going into a turn, then backing off the power, she swings round very nicely, almost in her own length, rather than the axis of turn being 30" off the beam the axis closes up to right under her hull, resulting in a very tight turn. I think this one is going to be a good performer on steering courses.

considering this is my first attempt at, can i truly call it semi scratch, I dont know, and the results I am actually impressed with.

[bigford]

SMASHING good job ghost looks very nice on the water
now clean the camera lens and get some close up shots :D

[Ghost 2501]

I think the dirt is on the inside of the lens, its already had a wipe with a screen wipe before i left home to go to the lake

[bigford]

just messing with you ghostie :D :D

[Ghost 2501]

:o oops :o lol

[Ghost 2501]

Nord Icelandia's radar now works :)

[Aerominded]

Oooo, need the details on the radar! :)

[RP6705]

You must have been busy Ghost not heard from you in a few days! :)


Russ

[Ghost 2501]

radar is done, here's a pic of said radar. next to install is the switch and charge loom for the unit, at the moment the switch is a simole case of disconnect wires

[Ghost 2501]

Oooo, need the details on the radar! :)

Rotating radar antenna,

base - gutted servo located in roof space of bridge.
shaft - Cut down square section, tapered at end
antenna boom - section of coat hanger that just happened to have that aerofoil shape similar to umi's.

the pic seems to show the faults in the painting at the moment, please be aware she's still a work in progress, the bulwarks on the superstructure are having their outsides painted black to prevent ghosting, then white, then the cream coat. there are also to be fitted a couple of anntennae on the superstructure as well. Around the top of the aft box there is to be a set of bulwarks as well, mainly to hide the gap and as she has a hatch in the roof to get access to the crane, then they wouldn't look out of place.

[Ghost 2501]

radar now DONE!!

[Ghost 2501]

More work on the bridge.

at this moment, the main hull is on her stand, batteries on charge, so all being well if sailing is possible on sunday she will be at the lake

[Ghost 2501]

as I am building a stand for Nord Icelandia, this is what I intend on putting on the front of the stand

[Ghost 2501]

stand built with RCG name plate

[Ghost 2501]

scrolling the forums, I came across the mr lobster, known by one person as mr lobstrocity! with some butchery and some painting it would be ideal for the the Nord Icelandia!

£20! :D one happy Ghost!

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

Let us know if it is Radio or Infra red... I know we discussed these earlier this year (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628329) , but no one was building a DSRV then.

And I was tempted too when the price dropped... :o

The trick now is getting your crane to lift sub off the deck and then drop it into the water, then pick it up again... :D

[Ghost 2501]

its radio controlled :) 27mhz, charges off the transmitter via a base station. yep a working A-frame would be nice, so its going to be study time. may need some meccano i think

[Ghost 2501]

umi, I remember that thread now, I posted there :) I've had to remove the cable drum off the back of the ship for now to make sure I have enoough room for the trolley to pass, also some reprofiling of the aft cabin is a must with a "control cabin", and I have the styrene to do that. Thats's not going to be added until the sub is on its trolley sat on the deck.

[Ghost 2501]

My submarine has arrived

[Aerominded]

The Nord is coming along great, Ghost!!! The sub will add a lot of fun to it! :)

Nice nameplate... always nice to meet other RCGroupers lakeside! :)

[Ghost 2501]

indeed.

Sat on the deck, yet to have its cradle made, the mini sub actually looks the right size. the real thing is only 36ft, and nautile is 26 ft, apart from being shorter than scale, her length/width dimensions match its prototype vessel pretty close, the prototype being a Jamstec Shinkai 6500,

thanks for that info Umi :)

[Ghost 2501]

one issue with the sub, its run time isn't that long, however that isn't a big problem. more pics will come when her cradle is built

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

With the small tanks on the landing craft, we found that the transmitter power was seriously lacking. We would be ok near shore, but at about 15-25 feet, we would get much control...

Don't lose your new sub by dropping it too far away... :o

[Ghost 2501]

Another problem is to mount a hook without seriously affecting the stability or the surfacing ability of the sub as it is positively bouyant but only just.

More likely im going to use a piece of wire or something in a V shape bonded to the hull, that will give something for the frame to grab. I dont want it to be really heavy though as she could roll over and want to sink.

[Ghost 2501]

in the new year I think i will order a 3-turn sail winch, and rework the sub-lift A-frame, no pullies, no springs, just a box with a sail servo in her. that should work.

[Boatfox]

Consider magnets on your crane hook and shim stock plate glued to the sub. Perfect grab with out having to align it, and as a bonus the sub can't get away :p

[Ghost 2501]

it'll have to be a small plate as well, a 5p (1c) coin (1/3rd") diameter placed in the sub sends it to the bottom

[Ghost 2501]

A-frame update

2x Micro servos
1x Futaba S3003
Extention leads
Y-lead ordered.

Hopefully I may be able to prize the A-frame off its base and free it from its mountins without damaging it. That will mean that I can use the existing one.

If not, oh well....!

[Tugboat Andy]

Hi Ghost.

Did you ever discover the designer of your AHST? I think it looks great and with the flat bottom it would be easy for a novice scratch builder.

[Ghost 2501]

sadly no, though I know the guy I purchased it off, (modelboat mayhem's "stavros"), he got it off ebay

[Ghost 2501]

well i've started it.

the idea is to use 2 servos, one with the motor removed, the other actuating the frame

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

I was thinking that you were going to hide the servos on the underside of the deck. Is the space too tight?

[Ghost 2501]

that was the ORIGINAL plan, but it is way way too tight, instead they are going to be boxed in

[Ghost 2501]

The idea is to disguise the set up as superstructure, complete with railings and a stern lamp. between the servos will be a hole for the wires to be fed,

[Ghost 2501]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMlsmqWSo8A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjAteE83QUU

radar revideoed, and yes that noise is the radar working, and umi's on about hers sounding like a coffee grinder, MINE IS A COFFEE GRINDER! ;) lol

admittedly some of the noise is excessive vibration as the camera was sitting on the model, and so the camera case may have been transmitting extra sound