Coverings & Wrinkles

[grinder965]

After getting into the hobby with several foamy planes I've now went and purchased my first balsa kit. It came pre-covered and the fuselage has quite a few wrinkles and some bubbles throughout the covering. Will a heat gun remove these. I have a Hangar 9 heat gun that has two temperature settings (low & high) and will try to remove the wrinkles/bubbles if I know it works and I can safely do it such a way that it results in more than just a temporary solution. If it can't be done, I'll just go ahead and return the kit.

Anyway, any and all help/suggestions welcome.

TIA....Mike

[S.A.D.]

It is normal when you get an ARF that you need to iron out some wrinkles and bubbles. It is best to use a heating iron on a low to med heat and work the wrinkles and bubbles to an edge. I would not use a heart gun on it.

[Thermalin]

After getting into the hobby with several foamy planes I've now went and purchased my first balsa kit. It came pre-covered and the fuselage has quite a few wrinkles and some bubbles throughout the covering. Will a heat gun remove these. I have a Hangar 9 heat gun that has two temperature settings (low & high) and will try to remove the wrinkles/bubbles if I know it works and I can safely do it such a way that it results in more than just a temporary solution. If it can't be done, I'll just go ahead and return the kit.

Anyway, any and all help/suggestions welcome.

TIA....Mike

If bubbles are over a solid surface, and sealed around the edges you will need to poke a pin hole in it to release the air. You may be able to move the bubble to an edge if its not sealed down tightly around the perimeter. If you make a pin hole, iron around the hole moving toward it to allow air to esacpe.
A heat gun will just heat the air causing it to expand under the covering and upon cooling you'll still be left with the orginal size bubble.
Mike

[HMX Dave]

So an iron will work on all coverings? I thought that some of the new stuff was low heat. (I built a plane from scratch 20yrs ago and used Monocote....but I have a new ARF that has some wrinkles I'd like removed)

[Jim K.]

I have the same EXACT situation.

I have zero experience with coverings, and I now own a giant Sig Rascal 110.

The wood has dried and shrunk (as expected in dry Chicago November), and now I have wrinkles to get rid of before I start the build.

This is a $400.00 airframe, and I would like some opinions on where to start.
The Rascal 110 says on the box that it is covered with Aerokote.

Here is the iron I purchased.
http://www.vintagevogue.com/onlinestore/usrimage/hobbico2.jpg

Thanks
Jim

[Jim K.]

Only three guys on this site have had to remove wrinkles from a ARF ???

That number doesn't seem right at all.

We are looking for your experienced recommendations, (so that we don't ruin our new airframes).

I have read to "only use the heat gun"
I have also read "only use the iron"

What did you guys do that worked ?
What did you guys do that DIDN'T work?


Thanks
Jim

[HMX Dave]

I used the iron on the flat surfaces to re-tack and get rid of wrinkles. I wasn't sure on temp, so I snuck up on it....started low, and worked up until it was hot enough to work.

[The Fonz]

Jim....

Covering takes practice....!

What I have found is that using an iron starting on low heat is the best way to start.

Using a heat gun is very risky because you dont have much experience with it and it will burn your covering very quickly and without much warning.

Simply move your iron around the affected area and you will start to see the covering start to tighten and the wrinkles slowly disappear. If not then raise your temp setting abit and try again. I personally do not like to press the iron down onto covering over flat surfaces......I like to tack it down well on all edges and shrink the rest with a circular motion over the covering with little pressure. This makes for easier repairs and gets you used to seeing the shrink action.

I personally do not use a sock on my iron but I suggest you use one. it prevents scratches and feels softer on the airframe.

Dont rush....take your time.

Always be aware that when the covering shrinks your airframe may begin to twist and warp. No problem, just twist correct with your hand and re shrink from the opposite side and hold until cool. It wont twist like a pretzel but if you are not mindful, it will happen..

different coverings require less heat and others are stronger than others. If you know what covering you have your lucky, if not start with a low temp setting and go slow....

overall........your tack down the edges of covering to your airframe with direct contact from your iron tip. This activates the glue and holds the covering in place to shrink without pulling away..

I am no expert but on factory covered models, just make sure the edges are tacked down well......nothing peeling away. Use your iron tip to do this. The effect of gluing down is quickly noticeable.

Using a heat is a quick way of damaging your covering if you are not used to them. Try the iron first....

The Fonz

[Jim K.]

WOW ......... Thanks Fonz

It took you two months to find this thread, but that was a great post. ;)

It also took some time for you to post all that, and I for one will applaud your effort as it is greatly appreciated.

I absolutely believe that your post should be made into a "sticky".

It answered the EXACT question that Mike started the thread with, and is emensly informative for all the guys like us that are sitting here looking at a wrinkled new plane, and a new iron.

Thanks Fonz ..... I will report back how my re-shrinking goes, (and I might even post pics). :D


Jim :)

ps. you just gotta love "topic notification" :D

[The Fonz]

Thanks Jim.....

I am NOT an expert by any means and I find covering to be one of the more challenging aspects to this hobby.

I too have purchased an ARF or two and have had the same issues with covering. I have used the heat gun and burnt a hole and ruined some covering and vowed to find another method less risky. Ive used the iron on low and slowly raised it up until I seen the covering start to shrink which is where I marked my dial setting for Ultracoat which was on the model.

I now have a mark for that, monocoat, oracover, and another cheap brand I cant remember this second.

It has been truly trial and error which was prompted me to respond to your post where you asked for specific methods that we have tried "with and without" success.....

It didnt take long to type and if you are like me, which I think you are, responding in this forum is not a chore. It is enjoyable. I only hope that somehow it will help you in getting a wrinkle free cover job.

To be honest Jim, I doubt that I can even get that quality of a covering job seen on most arf's but I continually try....

As far as a sticky, i dont believe it warrants that lofty status but thanks for the plug. Many others here are far more experienced and worthy of more notable mention....

Having said that what planes are you working on Aand have you been into RC for long

UP,UP,AND AWAY

The Fonz

[The Fonz]

Look at our post count Jim...........582...........spooky!..... :eek:

The Fonz