Top'sl Sloop Providence Build

[SloopProvidence]

Hello,
Here's some new pics of my 1/24th scale top sail sloop Providence. I lated the keel in Sept 2006. Planning started a few months before that.

My web site www.geocities.com/sloopprovidencerc is where the build blog has been up until now.

More photos to follow.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Upload of about a month's construction photos.

Jason

[Hoghappy]

I just love these old sailing vessels! I look forward to watching her come to life in the days that follow.

Good work! ;)

Captain Slick

[SloopProvidence]

The Q-deck planking is complete now! :D

I like the idea of using a sharpened brass tube on a soldering iron to burn/scribe the deck pins into each plank. I may have to experiment around with that. :rolleyes:

Jason

[Hoghappy]

The Q-deck planking is complete now! :D

I like the idea of using a sharpened brass tube on a soldering iron to burn/scribe the deck pins into each plank. I may have to experiment around with that. :rolleyes:

Jason

Yeah..that is pretty ingenius...I wished I had thought to do that and a some of the other things that have come about since my buildup. I could aways strip her down and do a redo! :rolleyes:

Captain Slick

[doomracing]

outstanding job so far :)

[SloopProvidence]

Well, today I resanded the Q-deck and brought all the planks down to the level of the 0.060" thick caulking stripes. Cleaned and rechecked the edges of the Q-deck hatch. I am ready to do the finish sanding and restain the deck now.

Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well,
Finish carving the main spar and staining it this week. Been reading up on how I want to rig the spar; ties, jeers, or lifts... I have photos from my trip and some rigging books, so its just matter of sitting down and looking everything over and getting it clear in my mind, before I build the main crosstree.
Well later,
Jason

[habutti]

Jason, glad to see this post still alive. Keep us posted:D

[SloopProvidence]

OK, just talked to a friend with a 42in bed lathe... :eek:

Tomorrow, I turn the mast!

This will be an interesting experience... I'm going to write down a number of offsets for the mast diameter at X hight from the step. This should give me a good read on the taper of the mast. One of the books I picked up recently has a great drawing of the mast head and how to step the topmast into the builtup trestle-tree assembly. This plan will mean turning the mast from a starting dia. of 3/4 to about 3/8 squared off at the topmast step and above. Carving out the flats for the side cheeks. Should be "fun", challenging but fun.
The order of sheaves has arrived and I can start fabing the blocks now. With the main yard carved down to tapper and ready along with the top yard partially rigged, the mast is what is holding me up now.
If all goes well... maybe Friday and this weekend wil see the mast and spars come together. :D :D :D

Then will come the rest of the fun, mounting the servos, routing the running rigging, building the blocks, the list goes on. :rolleyes:

Later,
Jason

[Bob Starr]

Be sure that you use a steady rest and a follower rest when you do this! It's going to be mighty floppy between centers.
Bob

[SloopProvidence]

Thank's for the help Bob,
Yep... Think I'll feed the mast thru the chuck and work on sections of it at a time and also be using a live center. Just looking it over most of the taper on the 36in mast is in a center 22in section. The rest I'll hand carve.
12 years ago I watched a master modeler turn his masts on his lathe at his house for his 1/15th scale 'Alma' scow-schooner.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Just got done roughing out the top mast from a square piece of stock. Also added the flag staff into the top of the top mast. Do some quick checks of the measurements and stain the top mast.
That will be one more piece down...

Umteen hundred to go! :eek:

Jason

[doomracing]

i'm still amazed. a race boat i can do, but this? me thinks not. kudos to you bro. looking forward to the finished product. a ship in the water :)

Jerry

[SloopProvidence]

Yeah... I have a way of bitting off more than I can chew.... :o

Most of the time though... that just means it takes longer to swallow.

I don't know if I'd have fun with a kit build class boat. One of the guys at the pond offered to let me sail one of his spares this weekend and get some practice on the water after club points, which I will gladly accept. But this one project is also more than enough. This is not my main hobby... more of a hobby from my hobby.

As long as it is 'fun' I'm good! :cool:
Jason

[doomracing]

what's your main hobby? mines women, but that's a totally different forum ;)

[SloopProvidence]

Model Railroading. I'm an active member in one of the largest operation model railroads in the world. It will be about 20 scale miles long when finished and take about 3 hrs to make a continious run from one end to the other and back - without meeting apposing traffic. The model is built in the Model Railroad Museum in Balboa Park, San Diego, CA. It is 1/87th scale (HO), we are open to the public 6 days a week and some holidays.
We also have 4-5 operation weekends a year, where about 40-50 people come to the railroad from all over the country and we run the trains on schedules simulating the 1940-1955 time frame. This crew includes station agents that phone in reports of train movements to the dispatcher in real time. Orders are dictated out and handed to the train crews changing their attority. Some of the trains run over 50 cars, sometimes as long as 130-140. The uphill trains regularly get helper engines that are put in the middle of the trains and an extra person is assigned to the train just to run the helper engine.
Our current main yard has a capacity of about 650 cars. When the layout is done we'll have three main yards (about 650, 400, and 450 cars each) and two staging yards of about 700 cars each.
We have a photo website www.opsontehachapi.com and I have some other pics of my models on www.geocities.com/hilljason

Take care all,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

BTW I'm waiting for the glue to dry on the gaff right now! Umteen hundred-1 parts to go . :rolleyes:
Jason

[Bob Starr]

Yes, the Balboa Park layout is a real nice one! I realize I have not seen it for years now. Too small of a scale for me tho, can't run live steam :)
Bob

[SloopProvidence]

Nice...
We have the Tehachapi Loop in now and are working to finish Mojave yard by early Oct. Next session is in mid Nov.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

OK, back to the point. Sailboats! After 4 hours standing over a lathe this evening... I have my mast. I still need to carve the 3/8 square section for the crosstree and start working on the various parts in the top.

Later,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Back again...
Today I squared off the mast head and have figured out the basic layout of how I'm going to layout the crosstree. I may also get around to cutting and mounting the S.B. bow-midship gunwale... but that will probably take about 2-3 hours to fit properly.

Jason

Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well today I've finished roughing out the main boom and cutting out the profile pieces for the catheads. Then I went to take a picture, and the camera finally died on me... so no more pics for a while. :mad: :rolleyes:
I also cutout the mast head fittings to build the crosstree around.

Well, next step I think is the caprails up to the bowsprit before I mount the Catheads. I also want to get the backplates for the chainplates installed and that whole section going. Mant things still to do!

Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well over the last week I have bent the gaff main sail onto the gaff, bent the square top sail onto the top'sl yard, built the crosstres (including the sheaves for the ties for the main yard), and mounted the port channel for the shrouds. I've bent three of the 10 chain plates for the deadeyes and mounted them. I will back them inside the hull with washers and nuts.
Got a new camera too, So some pics will be on the way when I get around to uploading them.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

I believe I have decided how I am going to rig the R/C stuff below decks.
Channels will be as follows;
1. Main sheet (drum)
2. Rudder (arm)
3. Jib Tacking (Arm, similar to Cryodacry's dolley system http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7955846&postcount=47 )
4. Forestay'sl, Inner and Outer Jib Sheets (drum)
5. Brace for main and top yards (controled by a drum 5.25 rev. Wench servo)
6. Top'sl Sheets (Drum)
Second controller
7. Flying Jib sheet (Drum)
8. Possible alternate Jib Sheet or Clewing for Top'sl.
9. Clews for Main Course (if fitted)
10. Sheets for Main Course (if fitted)

The Main Sheet will be rather interesting, The prototype has two sets of tackles for the main boom. As I look at the arangement, the windward one would be the one loading on the full sized ship. The leeward set would not have a fair lead to the boom when reaching or driving because of the quarterdack rail in the way.

Having the Jib Tack servo controlling which side the sheets will be controlled from will make things much easier than what I had been thinking with one servo for each side and the challenge of not tightening both sides at once :eek: and tearing either a stay or the foot of a sail. This method should be much safer.

Well, more on all this later.
Jason

[michaele69]

Please do keep us posted on the electronics installation. Several other folks are trying to figure out the best way to control multiple headsails in a more realistic manner (me for one). I am working on a two masted schooner.

ME. EC-12 1969

[SloopProvidence]

Michaele,
What schooner are you working on?

Funny thing, I have a request for planning a model of the pilot schooner Phantom (fore & aft rig). So I'm also interested in the simi-knockabout schooners too.

Jason

[michaele69]

It's the Emma C. Berry. A Sterling kit that I got in 1970. Yeah, I'm a slow builder :)

Once I figure that one out, I am planning to build the revenue cutter Roger B. Tanney. The 1831 version, not the 1938 one.

ME. EC-12 1969

[SloopProvidence]

Cool. Looking forward to seeing those inservice sailing.

So let me guess... These two projects will keep you busy til you at long last leave us? :rolleyes:

Jason

[michaele69]

Hopefully not. I got side tracked during the build. I could not find any winches back in 1971. Heard that there might be some in Germany, but without the web, finding them was almost impossible. I did find some wenches to fill my time though :)

ME. EC-12 1969

[SloopProvidence]

Well, much progress is being made on the fore sails and the topmast rigging. Over the last few days I have fabricated the mast fitting that the top shrouds anchor into. The channels on both sides have been fitted. About half the main chainplates have been fabed too. The inner jib has been rigged with small hank rings and a bolt rope preventer along the forward edge to hold the sail to the stay.

I'm working on finishing the wale to the stem and then build the main rail from the quarterdeck step to the stem. After that is done, I can start working on the standing rigging and figuring out where to mount the servos and other R/C in the main hold. Also once the rail is in I can finish building the catsheads and installing them.

Still much to do,
Jason

[doomracing]

I did find some wenches to fill my time though :)

ME. EC-12 1969

mmmmmmm wenches :) they are so much fun as well :)

[SloopProvidence]

Well today I got the SB side fore wale glued on and decided to setup the inner jib and take a pic or two.

while I was working on some of the other rigging a gust came up and spun her on her keel about 45 deg! :eek: :eek: :eek: That's only under ONE jib!

I'm thinking now that for the first trip out if the wind is up, I'll just go with the main and inner jib. :rolleyes:

Jason

[Brooks]

The most important step to take with your first sailing is to have installed a rescue buoy with automatic deployment. S....inking happens, alas. Or sail in a swimming pool, though you'd need a big one for your beautiful craft.

Looking real nice.

[SloopProvidence]

Yeah, several friends have offered their swimming pools for the trails. Now the choice is which offer to accept!

Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Uh... more rigging... Been roughing out much of the rig. I still need to do the gunwale toprails, then I can mount the Catheads and start the real rigging and R/C stuff.
Also need to go buy more rigging line... this thing takes miles of the stuff... and I'm not even to the detail part yet. (sigh) But what a sight she is.

Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well I went a head and mached up the full sail rig today so I can figure out where I want the foresail's sheet fairleads.

Enjoy some back yard "dry" sailing.
Jason

[Brooks]

Gosh your boat looks good. I was in RI 20 years ago and got to go out for a morning on the Providence, very nice ship.

[Hoghappy]

She is lookin great! ;)

Capt. Slick

[SloopProvidence]

Well, I've cut out all but one of the gunports and have the first layer of the port gunwale caprail attached. I'm working on the SB side chain plates. Soon I'll cut down the over hight frame subs on the SB bow and do the other caprail. Still plucking away at it.

Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Tonight I soldered the chainplate fittings and tomorrow I'll etch them to give the paint a "tooth" to hold on with. While I'm at it the Bobstay stem fitting is being finished. I might finish the gunwale caps tomorrow too.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well,
Here's an update on the boat.

[SloopProvidence]

Well I got a piece of tubing from a friend to build the mast trunk with. I'm still working on shimming it in around the mast. Then I will glue it down around the step and the deck hole, then remove the shims. Then I can use the shrouds and stays to align the mast. I wanted a way to somewhat easily remove the mast if I ever had to, seal the deck hole, and have the boom rest collar stay with the hull to ease the modifications to the mast hoops and main yard removal.

Later all,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Here's some pics of the new mast trunk. I still need to shim it and epoxy it in place.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well haven't had much time to work in the shipyard. I have the Top'sl Spar parreled on.
But I did read about the various ideas for quickly removing the top'sl. I think I've got it. I'll bend the topsail lacing around a piece of 0.05" rod that is fixed in front of the top yard. A series of eyelets hold the rod in front of the spar.
So I figure that with one careful pull I can slide out the rod and remove the sail. It might be alittle more interesting trying to get the sail back on the spar though.
The sheets of the top'sl end in a jewler's clasp for quick release. That should be easy.
I've also roughed out my bracing lines that run up to the bowsprit and jibboom. The Vids of Brooks and some of the others making tacks with the sqr rig have given me some new ideas and some things maybe I would have to worry about so much.

One other thing I've thought about doing is recutting the leach of the flying jib to let the sheet have a fairer lead to the crosstres. Basicly getting the sail higher on the stay and the foot-leach corner up perpendicular with the stay and crosstres.

Well, time for bed here. Later,
Jason

[Brooks]

Hi Jason, glad you are still working on your Providence, I had not seen any posts for a while, and missed the beautiful photos :-)

I'll take some photos of my laced course/jackstay setup and post over on barque part 2. As you guessed, putting the sail back on the rod is harder than removal. In the calm of the shop, it's not so hard to replace the rod, though. Patience is required, at least for me, whenever working with sails.
Tricks
1.It helps to heel the craft 20-30 deg. so that the rod is traveling downwards as I try to re-insert it - if the heel is opposite, Gravity will pull the rod back out if I let go before it's held by friction of enough laces.
2.I go through the laces with a toothpick fid to work some slack into them before threading. I'll also try to manipulate the tyvek sail to help get the laces lined up with the advancing rod.
3.As you probably, know, removing watch and rolling up sleeves helps to avoid snagging rigging as you work your hands into the rigging.
4. The lacing line has a spar-sized loop at one end. I hook that over the yardarm before starting the rod back through the laces. The other end of the line is long and free; I half hitch that over the other yard arm after running the rod through all laces and the 3 screw eyes. I don't half hitch it until I work out the slack in the laces with my fid. My stiff polyester thread requires 3 or more half-hitches to secure. I also run a rubber band keep over the hitches to keep them in place; the band is simply a slice of blue airplane fuel hose.
5.I have a fuel hose keeper on the end of the jackstay (the other end is bent in a L). The fuel hose was a little too big to clamp the jackstay well, so I put a constrictor hitch around the hose to make a smaller inside diameter. The lacing friction will keep the rod in place w/o the keeper - but if the hitches fall off the end of the yard and allow slack into the laces, they will no longer keep the rod from sliding back out. I have not lost one at sea, but I did lose one when I turned the ship on it's side to remove the keel, not noticing that the laces had become loose.
6. Practice helps, it's been getting easier to replace the courses :-)
-----------
Real ships re-cut their sails or re-ran rigging to get a better lead all the time, so you are following tradition with your flying jib.

[SloopProvidence]

"Sleeves?" :confused: Here in the land of SUN? What are these "sleeves" you speak of?

;)
Haha, yeah... I think though that my rods will be tight enough in the eyelets that the woun't really want to come out. The spar has quite a taper and that will flex the rod, partly binding it in the eyelets.

Well, Looking forward to more responces from you guys.
Jason

[kartgi]

Hi, Jason. Glad to hear from you and I'm sure we will get together to sail
one of these days. I visited your build site, great job on your sloop. I'm just reading up on these ships and waiting for my kit.

[SloopProvidence]

I also picked up on Amazon a copy of 'Rigging, Period Fore-and-Aft Craft' by Lennarth Petersson. It is mostly illistrations of rigging on a British (Topsail) Cutter (1760s), a French Lugger from 1770s and a American Double Topsail Schooner from the 1800-1815 era.
A good 30 pages are devoted to the Cutter. It's a little different that what I'm building for the American built version of the size ship, but most of the rig is done the same way.
It is REALLY good in that there are several pages of drawings showing where to lead the various sheets and halyards to which belaying pins on the rails. I'll sit down soon and transfer this data to a drawing of my deck plans showeing all the belaying pins to help me determon where to lead the sheets below decks to the servos. That has been on of my biggest holdups to continuing the build.

I'm planning on scratchbuilding two boats from my Providence. One ~16ft boat to carry on the main deck, between the quarter deck and the mast and a Boston-Whitehall 13ft quarter boat on davits off the stern. The 16ft boat is going to be based on a 22ft Danish lifeboat. I may also build the full 1/24th scale 22ft lifeboat as a landing barge, towed behind the sloop. After all, the Providence was involved in the first US Marine landing!

Well, happy boat building in the new year!
God bless us,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Hello All,
I'm back to working on my Providence. Last night I started working on the topsail. Rebuilt the sail to accept the jackstay. Slides in and out like a dream. I will bend the ends of the jackstay into a hole in the yard so that it doesn't fall out when when heels over.
Tonight I made up some paper templates off of my flying jib and decided how much to take off. The top part of the sail was too long and not giving a fair lead to the tops when sheeted in.
I've also been playing with the braces and the slack. I think I will be able to get away with a simple wench servo and drum. I must have just guessed close enough when I set up my brace blocks on the yards. Looping the ends of the braces around the rudder and tying them together to form a continuous loop works well. I can easily grab the top yard brace or the main brace and swing the topsail and yards out of my way while working on the sails or hull.
I went over to the daughter of my neighborer who built the scale R/C vessels when I was young and talked to her at length. It will was 10 years to the day from when he set out on the final voyage. Always amazing how things come full circle... :rolleyes:
I think it's very realistic how the models of these tallships need all of the rigging just as the real ones do to keep everything in its place! :cool: The stempost is connected to the bobstay. The bobstay's connected through the dolphin striker. The bobstay's connected at the jibboom. The Jibboom's connected to the top forestay. Etc, etc, etc... Then you have the horizontal... The port cathead is tied to the port whisker pole. The port whisker pole is connected to the jibboom. The jibboom is connected to the starboard whisker pole. The starboard whisker pole is connected to the starboard cathead. And the blue water all around, all around, all around!
OK... it must be getting late. Time for the chantey singing dockyard crew to climb into the sack.
See you out in the boat yards,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well, I decided to take the Providence outside and rig the sails again. We have a nice soft breeze today. In the tight channels of the backyards, 3/4 of the time it's dead calm or varying direction so much she's backwinded. A few days ago we had a nice stiff wind, but I didn't have time to set her up out side.
I got to play with the topsail sheets and clue lines. I want to figure out the best settings for all of the various lines for getting a good set on the sails beating and reaching.
Jason

[Brooks]

Your shot looking up - I thought you had taken a photo of a full sized ship visiting San Diego, very pretty. The other shot is beautiful too!

[SloopProvidence]

Thank you Brooks.
That's my goal with this build, a museum quality sailing model. Next time I do a shot like that I'll get the sun behind the masthead and not have the house in the backround! lol I also need to do some tidying up around the ship and finish tying off all the shroud lanyards and excess rigging around the parrels and such.
Last night I rebuilt the head of the main'sl and gaff to have a 1/16" steel rod like the jackstays on the top yard. Now when I make a main storm sail single or double reefed I can quickly change it.
What are you other fine captains using for mast hoops? I'm looking at either bending some brass strip or maybe even wood ones. I want to be able to fairly quickly change sails and just unclip the main'sl from the masthoops.
Well, back to the boatyard...
Jason

[pitviper51]

thats a stunning work of art you got there! id love to do a pirate ship like that!, heres a pic i got from a friend was was in 'so cal' this past summer,, that rig photo is a winner!
mike

[SloopProvidence]

Well I finally did it....

I cut and glued on the caprails! The first step to finishing the catheads and getting tension on the bowsprit. Tomorrow I'll stain the rails. There was some fun jigsaw puzzling for the pieces that make the caprail, and I also had to repair some damage on the starboard bulkward near the bow.

Pictures will follow when I get around to uploading them.

Jason

[Darkwinds]

Such a beautiful model. Have you thought of an extended keel for stability?

[john_auberry]

I have wounder that to?
Such a beautiful model. Have you thought of an extended keel for stability?

[SloopProvidence]

And ruin such a beautiful model~! :eek: :eek: :eek:
Perish the thought! ;)

Darkwind and John Auberry,
I'd like to try her without a keel bulb. When I went back to see the real Providence in RI, I found that they had removed about 2/3 of her internal ballast and built a 22" deep keel under her original keel with the ballast.
I calculated that if I added the same style extension it would be 2lbs. I figure that I can build her to the 10lbs light disp. as I prototypically planned and if she's too unstable, I can add the 2lbs without sinking her. That will just bring her to a more loaded waterline.
If I can possibly avoid having a bulb keel I will do it... I like the idea of being able to sail into the very shallow waters and not having wading trunks to my armpits!
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

For about the last three hours I've been engineering plans for my cradle to transport the Providence. I'm planning on building two profiles about 12in apart with a 3/4X1/2 spine connecting the two. Sounds like most ship models doesn't it... That's where the similarities end.
To fit into my car I must lay her WAY over onto her side to clear the roof. The mast is about 12in too tall to clear resting on her keel and one side of the hull. So I plan on making my cradle hinged to allow the ship to lay over and at the same time raise the keel. When I set her in the cradle I'll carefully strap her to the cradle, then pull to pins and raise the side panel. With the panel up and relocked, the Providence can heel over and come to rest on the side panel.
The cradle will be able to have straps lock it down in place in my hatchback and rear seats to prevent me from getting an extra hole in my head from the bowsprit if I have to make a quick stop!
I think if I do it right I could just lift her right into the car and strap her in, not having to take the cradle out of the car.
Maybe I need to do some drawings for you all.... or just do it and post photos! lol
Jason

[john_auberry]

yea............I hate keel bulbs. Im trying to build a suitcase that holds mine, with molded foam insides.

[Hoghappy]

Man she is looking great...congrats Jason! :)

[SloopProvidence]

Well, today I decided that I can't do much more with the catheads and routing the rigging until I do the staining. I just stained the caprails. Also I've cut the catrail on the port side to fit the cathead there. I am going to routh the two braces from the yards down the cathead and then into the main hull. My plan is to use plastic tube for the straight parts and fit prebent 1/8" brass tubing over it at the corners. The port cathead/tubing unit is drying after the first phase is done. After the hull dries from the stain, I will finish up the cathead/tubing and mount it.
I think soon after that part is done I'll make the belaying points for the foresails' downhauls. There is also a lot of shavings that are in the bildges, so I think when I demast her (hopefully for the last time) I'll capsize her and clean out the hull.
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Working on the Cathead/tubing units tonight. Not the easiest things to build. I need to be sure that once I get them in that they will be as smooth on the inside as possible, that they seal well, and last but most important, that I can get the braces THROUGH them after they're mounted and sealed into the bulkward of the hull!
I think I may have another way to do them also, involving a capstan on the forward part of the deck aft of the windless. Looking at some of the photos I can see where there are four holes in the bulkward, in the area above the hawspipe.
Well we'll see what comes about in the next few days!
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well, the port Cathead is done and painted at 1:50am (PST). (yawn)

Tomorrow I'll start working on the S.B. C.H. and cutting the caprail to fit it. I may also glue the port one in place and rig it with the sprit-shrouds... I could also start playing with catting the anchors!

Well G'night everyone,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well, last night and this afternoon I've been playing with the main sheet and radio gear. The engineering is coming togther... I'm seriously thinking about not R/Cing the top'sl sheets, just some light elastic tensioning on the hull end of the sheets. If I slave the flying jib to the fore'st'sl and the above for the top'sl I can cut down to only 6 channels. I'm also thinking on picking up one more of the BB wenches for the jib sheets.
I think I've also worked out where some of the major servos are going to be mounted. Starting at the forward bulkhead; Yard Bracing servo (BB Wench style), Jib tacking servo (Std w/2 arms), in the main hold area the Jib sheet servo (BB Wench style), and flying jib/fore'st'sl sheets (Std w/2 arms). In the rear hold; Main Sheet servo (std w/drum refitted for continuous running servo), and either in the rear hold or in the quarterdeck cabin I'll mount the rudder servo (std servo w/1 arm).
If I ever decide to add the extra servos for the main course... (if I ever decide to risk it) I'll have the extra room in the hold for them.
I'm also thinking of tying in a back stay system to the jib tacking servo.
On an interesting side note, I found that I can run a loop of line thru the around the yards (port and SB) and bracing blocks. I found that there is very minimal about of slack change throughout the rotation of the yards. Therefore I am planning on using a single servo (BB wench) to run both yards. I'll adjust the position of the blocks on the yard to get the required travel on the lines the same.
Well enough rambling... back to work,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Well, SB cathead underway. Waiting on JB Weld to dry now. I'm likely to start playing more with the main sheet while waiting. :rolleyes:

[SloopProvidence]

OK!
S.B. cat head done and installed!
All static rigging on the bowsprit is done!
Ship cradle half done. She is now resting in the main part of the cradle, and I had to knock off with the power saw as it's 10pm. For fun I threaded the 2ft 1/4-20 shafts on to the two hull forms that I cut tonight and tightened the nuts down. I little bit of finish sanding, painting, some split foam pads, and the stand/transporter cradle will be done. Then I just need to finish the movable outrigger cradle wings and getting the straps to hold the ship in the cradle and I'll be ready to hit the portage again!
Don't worry everyone... pics WILL soon follow! :)
Jason

[john_auberry]

I you set a sail by date?

[SloopProvidence]

After my four months off from the build, I'm a little weary about committing to getting her sailing by a set date. I'm fast with my hands... but sometimes distracted by other events... called life. So, I'll just say that she'll be sailing ASAP!
Better to keep the Brits off balance, eh!
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Hi all,
The pics as promised. These show the basic new transporting cradle/build stand/waterline leveling jig. This view of the ship laid over to maximum heel so it will (shoud) clear my car's roof. :cool:
Ooops :censored: 3 of my pics are too big. In the morning I'll resize them. Enjoy the first of the pics. I've also got some detail shots of the catheads, rails, and shroud pinrails too.

Jason

[andrewhalst]

Jason

Looks great - and a neat transport cradle, too.
Is it possible to get a support for the mast from the floor - some kind of vertical dowel with a fork on the end so that the rig isn't hanging from the
"weather" shrouds?

I'm lucky - I can carry most boats rigged and vertical, having a car that resembles a box on wheels - can get the dinghy on top, too!
andrew

[pitviper51]

looks good, is that a floor kraken hehee
mike

[SloopProvidence]

No... the floor is the ocean! Thanks though, maybe I should name the cradle the Kradlen! :p :p :p

I shouldn't need any extra mast support. When she's in my car I'll have straps tied over the cap rails and tightly over the kradlen's rods.

Jason

[pitviper51]

i had a neat idea soon after i wrote that, how neat would it be to make a display stand that looks like the kraken tenticals holding the boat up out of water.. maybe that is just the artist in me talken but it would be neat!
mike

[SloopProvidence]

Well what you see in the photo is only the basic rig. I plan on having movable "arms" that can act as outriggers when I want the ship to be vertical and be able to stand a fair wind. Then the arms will pivot up to be parallel with the edge of angle of the basic stand for transporting in the car. The two main frame rests are spaced apart by to 1/4-20 threaded rods. The transporting idea is to have straps that will secure the ship into the Kradlen and the arms will help support the lower side, while much heavier cargo... (no pun intended) straps will hold the Kradlen and the Providence in the back of my car so it can't slide around. That's the plan anyway.

I'm taking ideas on paint schemes on the Kradlen! I'm thinking base coat of the same off white as the lower hull of the Providence and then go over that with some nice sea monster looking blues and greens.... I'll have to see what colors of split-O foam tubes I can come up with for scratch protection on the mating surfaces with the hull.

Well Later,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Here's the resized pics from earlier in the week.
Jason

[pitviper51]

i hope the WL marker is removable.. looks great.

[SloopProvidence]

No PV...
I want to sail it once with the "bare" wood hull. Then I will paint the whole hull below the wale my off white color you see on the keel and immediately below the wale. I already have about 3 coats of paint everywhere it has been painted. So I expect that 3-5 coats of paint will cover any of my Sharpie makes. The advantage of having the LWL marked is that when ever I set her into the water I can immediately see how she's floating compared to the planned water line.
I've just about finished up the arms for the Kradlen and am going out side to see it I CAN'T tip her over this time! The arms come up just aft of the 2nd gunport (forward of "target" frame 40) and aft of the 5th gunport (on frame 16).
Of course now that I nearly have the Kradlen done I get the brilliant idea... Clear plastic machine cut to my desired profile... Duh! Well don't have the $$$ for the plastic or the real need for it. Once I finish the plywood version or the Kradlen that will be good enough.
Back to "work",
Jason

[pitviper51]

ahh gotcha, i kinda like the wood hull.. nothing looks as good as wood planks with 10 coats of poly , polished out with 6 coats of buffer heeheh
mike

[SloopProvidence]

Shhhhh... Don't tell anyone, but I didn't really plan out the lapping of the hull planks as well as I could have. Basically if you look at my website with the early construction photos you'll see how I did the hull. The plans are for a 1" fiberglass hull and frames on 4ft centers for the prototype vessel.

I kept the 2" frame centers and decided to go with a hybrid design for the hull. I'd laminate two layers of 1/16" basswood. The inner layer had MANY holes and slots between the roughly cut ~1/2" strips I cut from 3" wide panels. Anything over 1/2" strips were to stiff to bend into the shape and twist of the hull.

When I finished the first layer, I did some light sanding to knock down any high points before the second layer. It was like double planking a static model except that I was using very thin wide planks compared to what is usually used.
The second layer I stayed with 1/2 max width strips. As I understand the way real ships were planked, each plank was cut into a curved shape in 2D then bent into place on the hull. I didn't want to waste all the extra material to cut each piece into a curve then lay it in... Instead I started with the middle line of planking, which lays straight onto the hull. I tried to keep the prototypical three planks between same frame joints. A mix of the 2" frame centers and the 1/2" wide planks made that nearly impossible. I also found that I could not scarf the planks into one another at a width less than 1/4". If I tried less, I'd just split the plank.

So in the end I have some very nice scarfed joints and some not so nice joints. Some I planned ahead enough that I cut some nice squared off joints, but some just tappered into a point... Those are mostly down against the keel, near the bow, where I started.

So, in the end, because I was planning on painting the whole hull, I didn't really worry too much about getting the scarfing perfect. If I was building the hull with proper and traditional techniques then I would have been MUCH more careful.

Oh... and one other little note. On the second layer of planks, I made absolutely SURE to lap the planks vertically so that the lengthwise edge of the planks DID NOT line up. I wanted to be sure that there was no way that a seam could open and flood the hull. I am happy to say that in that goal I completely succeeded.

Well, I'm off to mount the bracing servo, more on the build later!
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Speaking of coats on wood... Finally getting around to finishing the caprail on the quarterdeck. Also the main sheet block deck mounting bits are in. Sometime I'll have to get fancy with the rope work and make the raps for the bits... so the crew don't kill their feet too badly! :censored: :censored: :censored:

Back to it,
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

Here's the updates of what's new on the Providence over the last two days.
After all... I have to keep up with all that great detail work going on in the Brig square rigger thread, right? ;)

Have fun everyone,
Jason

[pitviper51]

looks good!
mike

[soaranator]

Jason;
Fantastic work you are doing, and glad to see lots of progress. Santa Barbara #1604 "Big Woodie" is available for escort/pilot duties at the pond for the maiden voyage of sloop Providence. She's big and fast and can ram anything that poses a threat until such time that the captain and crew of the Providence get things sorted out and can fend for themselves....
Mr. Captain Billy Sir

[SloopProvidence]

Good to hear from you again Bill!

Sitting outside looking at the model under sail on the padio, I started thinking... something that is a dangerous past time... about when I get the Providence done, I build a 1/24th model of the gaff topsail schooner Phantom. A mid 1800's NY Pilot Boat.
The Phantom would be about the same size as the Providence... and much simpler rig. If you call gaff main'sl and fore'sl plus gaff topsails and a knockabout bowsprit with forestay'sl and jib! That would be fun too. Maybe get away with only four channels Main & Fore'sl sheet, Rudder, Jib tack and Jib sheets. Then attach the gaff topsail's sheets to the forestay'sl servo.

Back to the build.
Jason

[pitviper51]

on the subject of small gaff sloops.. anyone know whatkinda boat was seen inthe last pirates of caribean where jack is sailing off to fountain of youth.. a model of that lil baot as a footy would be neato! or build a real one hehe, some day..
mike

[SloopProvidence]

Here's some pics I took last year in the Mystic Seaport lifeguard station boathouse.

Tomorrow, I'll look into getting some styrene and starting work. The quarter boat will be a model of a 13' Boston-Whitehall. I like its low sleek lines, perfect for the captain and crew to have fun in. Because it's so small I'm not going to try to bend wood planks into shape for the first one I build. Maybe later I'll build one all from wood.

The larger ship's boat and barge that I want to build I think I can do from wood. They will be a 16' & a 22' version of a Danish lifeboat I have plans for. The 16 footer will be stored on deck while the 22' will be a tow-behind tender. Also, if I make two of the Boston's then I'm OK with that too. I could store the second one inside the ships boat on deck.

If I get good at building these small boats, maybe I should think about building them for sale!... comments?

[pitviper51]

i once though of building a pygmy wood kayak, they had similar jigs to that, but i dotn have the space to build a 19th touring boat haha those pics look good
mike

[SloopProvidence]

Mind you those AREN'T my models, there in the Mystic Seaport Museum collection. I am planning on using the technique to build all of my small boats.

I hunted for about 3 hours in the Mystic Seaport library (next to the museum) for plans and anything else of interest. I specifically was keeping an eye out for small boats like the Boston-Whitehall (skiff) and the Danish "lifeboat" ("cutter"/ship's boat/barge) for my Providence.

Well, still time for a few more pencil marks on my drawings,
Jason

[andrewhalst]

SloopProvidence

Thanks for sharing all this - the scrollwork is inspiring,

I can see you were also inspired by the boats at Mystic. My US geography is a little rusty, but Mystic and S.Diego seem to be about as far apart as you can get with dry feet?

The clinker boats are fascinating - are you going to reproduce the planks in styrene? The method of building right-way-up on a frame looks more floppy than building inverted on frames (preferably at waist level), But what do I know?
PLEASE trace all the strakes and frames and scan them! That would potentially make the boat available for lots of people to build in any reasonable scale size and material

Thanks for sharing your beautiful build
Interested in you choice of the next scalesail - I was looking at boats in this era while hunting for good illustrations of a cutter. (I was looking for a single-mast gaff-rigged RN or Revenue cutter, but google threw up also pilot cutters, etc)
andrew

[SloopProvidence]

Andrew,
Check out the book I referenced earlier in this thread about rigging diagrams. It goes into detail on rigging a British "Cutter" Sloop gaff rig with Topsail and Jib on a moving hoop on the bowsprit. It is what is letting me my rig underway. When I went back to see the topsail sloop Providence last year, she was in a boatyard high and also very dry. The crew had de-stepped the topmast and had all of the yards stored. So it was impossible to document the running rigging, thus the book was a Godsend.

I've also been heavily using the section of the book showing a US 1812 era double topsail schooner for other useful bits like the main boom and main tackle.

I'm planning the first of the little 13 footers to be styrene... MUCH easier to bend strip styrene than comparable wooden strips. Once I get the hang of it, then I will try doing the same with basswood. I also hear of a "flexible lime" from Model Expo I might try that too.

I figure the larger 21' auxiliary will need to be wood, and given its size, being easier to build. Also the 21' boat is too big for storage on the main deck! :eek: So it will have to be a tow-along boat. (hopefully not a sink-along boat :o )

All of the plans I'm drawing up I'm thinking about posting or selling under my own name. If I also develop a good jig to build them on I could really have something. I'm planning on being able to clamp down the jig either side up. The boats should have internal bent frames and also the external watertight (hopefully) planking. The first styrene boat will include sealed "lockers" at both ends for floatation.

Well, time for bed here about as far from Mystic as a "Rebel" ;) can get!
Jason

[andrewhalst]

Jason,

Thanks for the reply. I have the "Anatomy of a ship - Cutter Alert" which even details the bo'suns second son's boot size! I love these handy but complex little boats.

I also love a LOT of bowsprit and headsails/jibs

Your workmanship and skills deserve to be appreciated and rewarded - this forum indicates that there is a wide range of people who like this style of building and sailing - best of fortune with it.

Dunno about "flexible" lime, but:
Basswood is american lime - tilea americana (if I remember it right), Lime is Tilea Europaea. Same family, probably the bigger difference is how high and cold it grows.
All lime is pretty flexible, can be made more so by heat, so lime planks, say 3/32 or 1/16 thick would be wonderful to work with for this type of model

andrew

[SloopProvidence]

I'll have to look into that book too... (no, no, no more books. I don't have the shelf space!) :p

The load of foresails on the Providence is one of the reasons I chose it. 3 lower jibs and a high flying jib, plus a square topsail to boot.

I tried using the Model Expo attachment for a soldering iron to heat (steam bend) the bullworks around the bow. But I found that the wood shrank after the treatment. I must have let too much water into the sheet and it swelled up while I positioned it, then shrank as the iron steam dried the wood back to its original size. :mad:

Well I got that part finished, I only had to do the two forward most sections of hull and could hind the lower seam under the main wale. :rolleyes:

Well need to run, I look forward to seeing your progress Andrew... you ARE planning on building your cutter, right? ;)
Jason

[john_auberry]

if it makes you fill better I destroyed the black pearl with a angle grinder trying to get the planks to layflat :o

I'll have to look into that book too... (no, no, no more books. I don't have the shelf space!) :p

The load of foresails on the Providence is one of the reasons I chose it. 3 lower jibs and a high flying jib, plus a square topsail to boot.

I tried using the Model Expo attachment for a soldering iron to heat (steam bend) the bullworks around the bow. But I found that the wood shrank after the treatment. I must have let too much water into the sheet and it swelled up while I positioned it, then shrank as the iron steam dried the wood back to its original size. :mad:

Well I got that part finished, I only had to do the two forward most sections of hull and could hind the lower seam under the main wale. :rolleyes:

Well need to run, I look forward to seeing your progress Andrew... you ARE planning on building your cutter, right? ;)
Jason

[SloopProvidence]

No... that's terrible! :( You should have at least tried to kedge her back into shape before using the black powder! (BOOM) :eek: :eek: :eek:

I didn't bother to get all of the angles sawn to shape. I just cut the fames at 0 degrees and then lightly sanded to deburr the edges, I just packed epoxy into the joint and down both fore and aft edges of the frame. Never moved again!

I'm looking at my boat and thinking about what's involved in eventually replacing various parts as they wear out or are broken... The only part I'm not sure about would be replacing strakes in the main hull. I guess I could just cut into the hull around the offending section and remove it, then refair the edges and replace the whole section.

Hopefully, I won't have to do that for several years yet.
Jason

[john_auberry]

yea when I tried to grind them down the lyers in the plywood came apart.....it sucked

[pitviper51]

that sucks,, now you can work onthe fiber glass one tho! hahah , i wonder if thinner ply and sanding the egdes would work. also if the planks are thick wouldnt you beable to snad the seams smooth..
mike

[SloopProvidence]

More progress,
This time on the quarterdeck hatch opening. I framed it in and painted it earlier today. Tonight I cut some clear plastic sheet and glued frame pieces to it. I also ordered Model Shipways grating for the center areas of the hatch covers.

Also a finished clear coated pic of the S.B. scroll work.

At some point I'll figure out where I want the cannon ball racks to be for the quarterdeck 4lb.ers. I don't know if I'll fit those guns or not. If fitted the Providence would have a single broadside weight of 7 4lb cannons & up to 6 1lb swivel guns (loaded with grapeshot). Not something you would want to mess with if you're a poor fishing schooner. :rolleyes:

Jason

[Hoghappy]

She's looking better every day Jason!

I will soon have some more help tryin to keep these Brits at bay whilst we plunder the booty! :p

Capt. Crash

[SloopProvidence]

Thanks Capt. Crash,
After posting those last night I was looking at the detail around the inner front edge of the quarterdeck... unfortunatly I found that the forward "runways" should be equal width all the way forward to the ladder down to the main deck. :mad: OK I can add a nice cover plank to hide the add-on width. Also the runways are a bit too short! :censored: Grrrr.... that full moon must have finally hit the west coast shipyard. ;) So I think I'll finish the front edge of the quarterdeck with some nice think transverse planks at the head of the ladder.

But before I do any more work on that part of the ship I need to get all of the internal servos, fairleads, radio mount, and other associated below decks "done", then plank the main deck and get it caught up to where the quarterdeck is in completion.

Whew... (still)much to do,
Jason :cool: