How the hell do you paint foam?

[Eljimb0]

This is all about painting foam, not fiberglass with foam underneath it, or polyester dryer sheets with foam underneath it. It is about plain old foam like a styrofoam beer cooler or a GWS Formosa wing.


WBPU...water based poly-urethane.. clear finish usually for wood floors and trim
LWS....light weight spackle...usually for quick sheet-rock (wallboard) repair

[Eljimb0]

My advice is to use acrylic craft paint. You can buy it from a craft store like "Michaels". When you buy it, get the big plastic bottles of white, black and silver when it's on sale it costs less than 2 dollars. All the colors of the rainbow can be created by mixing the other colors but you will always need black white and silver.
....Good luck with this thread and lets keep it clean :)
jimbo

[Water Boy]

I agree with the craft paints. The only paints I will use, for the most part. I got alot of the small bottles on sale at wally world a few months back. Most Walmarts are getting rid of their craft/fabric depts. I picked up about 20-30 bottles for around .30-.45 cents each.
What are you using to dilute the paint?
I use water but have heard of using windex, what about alcohol?

For painting GWS planes I first sand smooth with some 400 paper and fill with LWS. Then coat it with WBPU (several coats), then lightly sand with wet/dry 1500 paper. This gives a smooth as glass finish. Then simply paint it. (If it were only that simple)

[Eljimb0]

I have used water and also used windex.. I can't tell the difference in the results..
water is really cheap!!..
Here's a tip.. go on a yogurt kick. Pretend it is good for you and you are trying to lose weight.. Save up all the containers and lids. When you have about fifty of them re-examine your yogurt commitment . The containers are perfect for mixing and saving paint.. After you get a color that works for what you are doing.. paint the top of the container with that color and stowe it. ...fix dings in your model with it. When the model bites the dust ...use the rest of that paint in your general camo mix .. jimbo.

[Chris F]

I used Tamiya Mica Red in the spray can for this Formosa II. It is a metallic paint and looks great.

[ozoneone]

Tamiya acrylics in the bottle work great too. They have a nice sheen and don't show brush strokes as much as craft paint from my experience. Here's a fuse I did with Tamiya:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=249656

[punkindrublik]

Ultracote paints work very well in light coats. Very durable and doesn't crack. A bit more spensive, but great results...

Other than that I've tried Krylon H2o and Short Cuts both with success.

Nothing beats acrylic applied with an airbrush though ;)

Brian

[Water Boy]

I've used the Krylon H2O, works good but colors are limited. I have not been able to find the short cuts.
What tamiya cans are you guys talking about. The only ones I know of are the ones for plastic and melt foam.

[*Centurion*]

Hey all,

I wanted to get in on this thread because I'm interested in using my airbrush to paint my Magpie foam plane. So it sounds like acrylic paints are the way to go correct? This won't damage the foam? How about protecting the paint when you are done? Do you just put a clear tape over it afterwards? I know on the Magpie it is recommended to tape up the foam so that it becomes more sturdy. Now I'm just curious if that would be correct method. Also, do you have to lay down a base coat before you start? Thanks

Burt

[Eljimb0]

No base coat.. acrylic paint sticks to everything.
jimbo

[*Centurion*]

No base coat.. acrylic paint sticks to everything.
jimbo
So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?

[Accu157]

Well, some form of varnish, transparent floor coating. Maybe a spray on fuel-proofer, assuming it won't eat into the foam or the acrylic. Acrylics are great, it's just the ones that are water soluble that can cause problems.

I like the fact the Tamiya paint doesn't show the brush strokes. I've only worked with it once, it was some of the best paint I've ever used. Smoothest, streak-free, but a little pricey in a spray can. Can't wait to try the 1/2 ounce jars.

[Water Boy]

Hey all,

I wanted to get in on this thread because I'm interested in using my airbrush to paint my Magpie foam plane. So it sounds like acrylic paints are the way to go correct? This won't damage the foam? How about protecting the paint when you are done? Do you just put a clear tape over it afterwards? I know on the Magpie it is recommended to tape up the foam so that it becomes more sturdy. Now I'm just curious if that would be correct method. Also, do you have to lay down a base coat before you start? Thanks

Burt
I prefer a base coat myself. I usually just use white. Mainly it helps the colors POP. Using light colors on blu-cor you tend to see the words and the blue comes through, causing some tinting. For a "Clear coat" Use minwax polycrylic. Either a brush or since your planning on using AB then pick up a spray can, you can get it at just about any home improvement center even wallyworld.

Just a tip before painting clean the foam with alcohol, then use latex gloves to handle. This will keep the oils from your skin off the foam and causing your paint to fish eye.
Harry

[*Centurion*]

That all sounds like good info. Thanks for the tips. So now we have a way of protecting the paint but what about the foam/plane? Don't people usually use the colored tape to harden the foam? Especially on the wing fronts right?

[ScaleBrad]

Future Floor polish makes a great clearcoat when sprayed through an airbrush- or it can be brushed on, but you may get brush strokes. It is foam safe.

[MarkusN]

Future Floor polish makes a great clearcoat when sprayed through an airbrush- or it can be brushed on, but you may get brush strokes. It is foam safe.
One of the great properties of Future is that it's self-leveling. No need to worry about brush-strokes.

The plastic model guys are much more discerning about this stuff, and they agree that airbrushing Future is not necessary.

Future is an Acrylic, and as such is not fuel proof.

[jteplane]

I've used Krylon Fusion with excellent results on my various foam models:
E-flite P47, E-flite Mini Pulse (landing gear), Tb-20, MiniMag.

[Water Boy]

I've used Krylon Fusion with excellent results on my various foam models:
E-flite P47, E-flite Mini Pulse (landing gear), Tb-20, MiniMag.
Is this the plastic paint? Will this not attack foam? I've used it on platic and its great but scared to try it on foam.

[jteplane]

Is this the plastic paint? Will this not attack foam? I've used it on platic and its great but scared to try it on foam.

Yes its made for plastic, but so far I have not seen a problem. You have to go easy on it, a couple of light coats is all I use....
Never tried it on GWS foam, that would be the acid test. (excuse the pun)

[jfv]

<So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?>

Minwax Polycrylic. I spray it on with an airbrush. I have also thinned it with water and wiped it on with a soft lint free cloth.

[Eljimb0]

<So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?>

..Protect it from what?

In my opinion there is a basic issue regarding "foam" that needs to be resolved. It is what it is. Just like stick and tissue or monocote covered models there is a fundamental "look" that cannot be disguised. I think that simply accepting that "look" is by far the best possible solution. Trying to simulate sheet metal and rivets is a waste of time and energy. It will break your heart every time. The stuff flies great. It is cheap. It is magnificent to repair. Settle for "It looks great in the air", paint it fast and use dull finishes and live with the "dings"...........Or make your airplanes from balsa.
jimbo

[jteplane]

<So what would be the recommendation after you put the paint on to protect it and the foam?>

..Protect it from what?

In my opinion there is a basic issue regarding "foam" that needs to be resolved. It is what it is. Just like stick and tissue or monocote covered models there is a fundamental "look" that cannot be disguised. I think that simply accepting that "look" is by far the best possible solution. Trying to simulate sheet metal and rivets is a waste of time and energy. It will break your heart every time. The stuff flies great. It is cheap. It is magnificent to repair. Settle for "It looks great in the air", paint it fast and use dull finishes and live with the "dings"...........Or make your airplanes from balsa.
jimbo

After flying balsa for the past few months I would tend to agree....
Foam is foam, you can dress it up a bit, but don't expect it to perform or wear like balsa...
however,, IMO monocotes or skin over foam does help with the "dings" issues. My PZ spitfire is proof of that. Still looks great after many flights.
Just my 2c

[jwims01]

What are LWS and WBPU. I'm trying for a smooth finish.
I agree with the craft paints. The only paints I will use, for the most part. I got alot of the small bottles on sale at wally world a few months back. Most Walmarts are getting rid of their craft/fabric depts. I picked up about 20-30 bottles for around .30-.45 cents each.
What are you using to dilute the paint?
I use water but have heard of using windex, what about alcohol?

For painting GWS planes I first sand smooth with some 400 paper and fill with LWS. Then coat it with WBPU (several coats), then lightly sand with wet/dry 1500 paper. This gives a smooth as glass finish. Then simply paint it. (If it were only that simple)

[Eljimb0]

Hi.
LWS..... light weight Spackle (filler)
WBPU.... water based poly urethane (paint)

[J Morgan]

Go for the best of both worlds. I used white foam for this fuse, Depron for the wings. The fuse was then skinned with balsa and the whole model epoxy/glassed. Makes a very light weight hard and durable model.

J

[S55]

For multi color patterns what masking tape to use so it does not come off together with the paint or the paint you apply after taping does not get under it? Tried blue painter's tape and the paint got underneath.

[Eljimb0]

S55.
Put the paint on as a fog.. several very light passes with some dry time in between. That always seems to work for me.
jimbo

[S55]

That is hard to do with sponge brushing. Might be better suited for airbrushing.
Is there a better tape?
Or maybe I need to get an airbrush.

[Eljimb0]

S55.
You can get a very decent airbrush from harbor freight in Gresham for 10 bucks..
jimbo

[S55]

Harbor Freight opened a store in Beaverton now.
I heard many people saying the cheap stuff does not work well and you would think it's because of you, while in fact it's because of the cheap equipment. Anyway, 10 bucks is not a big deal, it's probably worth trying.
Thanks,
S55

[Wayne V]

I usually use 2 coats of minwax polycryl to seal the foam, then i can use whatever paint i want, plus it's fuel proof ( at least to 10% omega )

[S55]

Well I got the airbrush kit and an air can just to test how it works.
The airbrushing is OK once you have the right adjustment, but there is not much you can do. The nozzle seemed to work only when the last 1-2 threads were engaged. You unscrew a bit and it comes off. The other thing is the air can needs to be shaken from time to time otherwise the pressure goes down. If you keep shaking during painting it’s OK, but I think you shouldn’t have to do this.
I guess next step would be to get a real airbrush.

[cars4fun2001]

you would be surprised how well that air brush will work on a air compressor and not the can. I tried using a pasch " spelling" air brush one of the best out there on a can once and it was pure junk. I have never used a can sense.

Mike

[Eljimb0]

That air brush will work great. Dittos to what mike said... loose the can ...it is a silly expensive waste of time. It is very easy to rig up an airhose to the valve on a spare tire (from your car) you can fill it at the gas station (for free) and it will last for a long time.. enough to paint a few planes..
jimbo

[cars4fun2001]

well I have a question on painting foam. I have made several foamys and have never once painted one. I have one now that I would really like to dress up. It is blue core and FFF some of the covering is on some of it that will need to be painted some of it is bare foam and there is striping tape on some of it that will need to be painted. so what are my options for paint that will stick to all these different parts? I have been reading a bunch of different post and you see things for this type of foam and this type but what about the foam that still has the plastic on it and what about the tape. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Mike

[ScaleBrad]

One of the great properties of Future is that it's self-leveling. No need to worry about brush-strokes.

The plastic model guys are much more discerning about this stuff, and they agree that airbrushing Future is not necessary.

Future is an Acrylic, and as such is not fuel proof.


I've got the brush marks to disprove that ;)

[RCskeeter]

I have to compliment and support the earlier comment about living with the look of foam. Just paint it up with some quick but tasteful coats of acrylic craft paint. If you want a certain color just use a mixing chart and mix/blend colors to get what you want. I have a personal preference for semi-gloss and eggshell finishes, this will also help to hide styrofoams imperfections and make the plane look more realistic. Remember to keep your total amount of paint as light as possible. Seal it all with a light coat of water based poly sealer and Shazam yo done and havin fun.

As for the thoughts on cheap airbrushes and pressurized cans, Just buy a little compressor and a real airbrush. Stay away from the facsimile products that look like tools but are only designed to deceive the customer into purchasing it.

Borrow, work with a friend, be resourceful, and ultimately try to keep it simple and remember to smile alot and have fun.

These thoughts come from my lifes experience.

Skeet in Michigan!

BTW...Winter is Dirty, is it spring yet?

[JEFF R]

I have not seen the LWS mention yet. is it necessay to coat the whole plane with LWS before paint. I have some paticular corners on my Lynx XF i want to fillet, but, do i need to cover the whole plane before i paint?

[Eljimb0]

Jeff,
The LWS will take paint differently than bare foam. I usually hit the Light Weight Spackle (LWS) with a thin coat of rattle can H2O Krylon primer first.
jimbo

[Eljimb0]

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=744638

Here is a how to thread on painting foam. This is what you can do..
amazing talent.
jimbo

[Anders0n]

Painting my Elapor foam Multiplex EZ* (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRU7&P=M), using standard Ace Hardware Primer and standard spray paint.

I tried the Krylon H20 on a EPP foam Reno Midget Mustang (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/funflyreno.htm), and I didn't care for the adhesion properties.

Granted, my scheme won't be as colorful or nice looking at those already posted. :)

HTH

[IPFlyer]

Krylon H2O is not the stuff to use on EPP. Use Krylon Fusion - works great.

[EEC]

I've used Krylon H2O and been very disappointed with the spray and adhesion. It was blotchy and sprayed globs of paint. It took several coats to get decent coverage. It also came right off with masking tape.

Is there much difference in using minwax polyurethane or polycrylic? They seem to be used interchangeably around here.

[FISHER711]

Here is how I paint bare foam. Just finished a GWS Zero this way and had no problems with paint lifting while masking. I use an airbrush for the small areas and a small finish gun for the larger areas and overall priming.

My finishing process: (Bare foam airplanes)

After building is finished and all exterior modification (if any) are done.

1. Light sanding of the foam – removing mold high spots.
2. Fill all the large dings and dents, with light weight spackle (lws)
sand when dry. If you have a very large void such as slot from a spar, then fill with strips of foam first (glued in), then finish with lws.
3. One or two full coats of thinned down lws. Sanding between coats with med foam sanding pad. (lws thinned with water to a cream, rubbed on with finger).
4. Light coat of rattle-can spray wbpu, sand, one more light spray of wbpu and sand.
5. Prime with thinned down wather based primer (I use Zinsser 123, and thin it with windex 50/50 and airbrushed on, although I have brushed it on in the past).
6. Final light sanding with fine foam sanding pad.
8. Top coat with either Latex exterior grade house paint thinned with windex, or thinned acrylic paint (I get the acrylic stuff from Wally-Mart).
9. Clear coat with wbpu. Airbrushed or rattle-can spray.

I find I get a much better finish if I airbrush the wbpu, rather then using the rattle-can stuff (it likes to spit and spatter leaving a poor finish).

Take your time and use multiple thin coats, rather the just globing the paint on. You can get a nice light finish if you use multiple LIGHT coats throughout the process.

Mike

[loserdave]

I used Tamiya Mica Red in the spray can for this Formosa II. It is a metallic paint and looks great.
DUDE! your F4 is totaly kicking!

[loserdave]

I prefer a base coat myself. I usually just use white. Mainly it helps the colors POP. Using light colors on blu-cor you tend to see the words and the blue comes through, causing some tinting. For a "Clear coat" Use minwax polycrylic. Either a brush or since your planning on using AB then pick up a spray can, you can get it at just about any home improvement center even wallyworld.

Just a tip before painting clean the foam with alcohol, then use latex gloves to handle. This will keep the oils from your skin off the foam and causing your paint to fish eye.
Harry
Oh man ,,, I used to be a painter,,, and i forgot that very important point :o
that foam has got my greasy finger prints from one end to the other. :rolleyes:

[Fockewulf68]

One of the great properties of Future is that it's self-leveling. No need to worry about brush-strokes.

The plastic model guys are much more discerning about this stuff, and they agree that airbrushing Future is not necessary.

Future is an Acrylic, and as such is not fuel proof.

I'm also a static model builder and I always use Future, for a top coat.

Yes, it is self-leveling but I have always airbrushed it on, I would suggest this method. You get more precise coverage (I mean you can do light coats) rather than hand brushing it on.

Use it straight from the bottle, with no thinning. You can clean up with Windex (cleaning your brush or spray through your airbrush)

No need for expensive can clear-coats and a bottle of Future lasts a Looooooong time!

[morpheusdream]

Hiya... i have a quick question about prepping the foam prior to paint:

Fisher711 mentions:

3. One or two full coats of thinned down lws. Sanding between coats with med foam sanding pad. (lws thinned with water to a cream, rubbed on with finger).



Was this to to cover over the entire airframe? To get rid of the foam beads and bubbles? Could I use Water based acrylic with baby powder or even microballons, paint over the whole aurface, sanded down, to get the same effect?

I tried just polyacryliccing it and the foam beads still show through somewhat...

thanks in advance!
mike!

[Eljimb0]

Yes on the filler, remember this is foam.. it will never look like balsa. Foam looks good too..it just looks like foam.

[morpheusdream]

ok, thanks mate!
mike!

[jimweda]

The only problem I've found with Krylon H20 is that its pretty thick. I only use it if I'm trying to set a base coat or primer. I always sand it really good to try and take the weight out. Although its pretty expensive, 90% of the time I just use the Tamiya cans. Its a lot cheaper if you have an airbrush and buy the little jars and you can paint more with those. I've been told countless times that you cannot use the "P" version and must use the "T" version of Tamiya paints. That's hockey puck. Personally I think the "P" version is a better color, not sure why that is, but it is my preference when it comes to painting foam. The thing is you don't spray too close to the foam. I don't do that with any paint so its never been an issue with me. One of the best ways I've found is to "Dust" a few coats until you get the desire hue that you want, but I'm usually too impatient and hit it all in one shot. I usually spray from 8" to 12" inches away and nice wide passes so you don't get the speckles. Once I've done that and its dry, I use a foam brush and apply some Water Based Polycrylic, not Urethane unless I'm using it for an undercoat and going to paint on top of it. After the first coat dry's, I use 400 or higher grit sand paper and lightly sand because it usually has a really fine grain feel to it. Wipe it down with a moist rag and apply one or two more coats depending on what you're aiming for and I don't know why this is, but you don't have to sand the other coats. Comes out like you just had a wax job on your bird. This not only helps protect your paint job, it adds some strength and if you have any tape or stickers/decals on your plane it will also seal it so they don't eventually start peeling off. Its great stuff and have worked fantastic for me. I've even used it to lightly glass some of my foam planes. Its lighter than finishing resin or epoxy and dry's clear, not brown like Polyurethane does.

Jim

I've used the Krylon H2O, works good but colors are limited. I have not been able to find the short cuts.
What tamiya cans are you guys talking about. The only ones I know of are the ones for plastic and melt foam.

[jimweda]

If you're spraying on white foam or very light colored foam you don't usually need a base coat. Personally "Dusting" the plane, (a few light coats as opposed to one thick coat) works nicely and although not huge, it usually is lighter in weight. To protect the paint read my previous post on Water Based PolyCRYLIC, not Urethane dry's clear and gives a beautiful finish, seals, adds some strenth and helps with water resistance. Great stuff. Just don't forget to sand the first "light" coat and then apply one or two more depending on how much protection you want. Remember applying too many coats will add a bit of weight, but not much. I usually do 2 coats but will add one more if its a belly lander and during those moist mornings it helps repel the dew.

Jim

P.S. Polycrylic also comes in a spray can but is about $10-$12 bucks. Just buy the can and use those little foam brushes, don't use bristles. It sounds like it would streak and leave all kinds of marks, but its amazing how smooth it comes out when you get to the second or third coat. Looks like you sprayed it on.

Hey all,

I wanted to get in on this thread because I'm interested in using my airbrush to paint my Magpie foam plane. So it sounds like acrylic paints are the way to go correct? This won't damage the foam? How about protecting the paint when you are done? Do you just put a clear tape over it afterwards? I know on the Magpie it is recommended to tape up the foam so that it becomes more sturdy. Now I'm just curious if that would be correct method. Also, do you have to lay down a base coat before you start? Thanks

Burt

[bfaulguy]

I thought the Minwax polycrylic went on FIRST, then spray acrylic thinned 50/50 w/windex, then (optional) another coat of gloss polycrylic. Also, do you only recommend brushing on the polycrylic, or can you thin it 50/50 with Windex as well and spray on?

[LouieB]

I thought the Minwax polycrylic went on FIRST, then spray acrylic thinned 50/50 w/windex, then (optional) another coat of gloss polycrylic. Also, do you only recommend brushing on the polycrylic, or can you thin it 50/50 with Windex as well and spray on?

You may want to PM Jimweda as his last post is rather old.

What are you trying to do? Put down a base coat or put on a protective finish?

If it is a protective finish for your surface paint then you can brush on or spray on the WBPU, WBPC or if you have the rattle can clearcoat from Model Master you can spray on several coats of that.

If you are wanting to put on a primer base coat, then clean the foam real well with denatured alcohol, let it dry and then spray on white primer. Follow that with your color choices and then a protective clearcoat.

[bfaulguy]

I'm wanting to put down a basecoat that will provide good paint adhesion. I've been all through these forums, and the Minwax keeps popping up to use as a primer. I tried using it on a wing, and it seemed to add some weight. What type of white spray primer is there that won't eat foam? I have acrylic paint that I planned on shooting with a small auto detail gun.

[LouieB]

You can use the water based polyu as the base primer. In fact, if you silkspan a plane using WBPU, you would then give it a light sanding and then shoot your colors.

The paints that I know that will not eat foam are the Model Master, Boyds and Testors. The paints that are made for the lexan bodies that go on RC cars will almost always eat foam.

The primer I use is the rattle can Model Masters white primer. Actually any water based acrylic primer can be used. If you are painting light colors then white primer would be the best to use. Let it dry well, sand if needed and then shoot your color. Follow up with the clear coat of your choice. I like the Pearlesence Clearcoats best as I like the plane to glisten a bit.

As far as weight, all bases and paints add weight to the plane. How much depends on how thick and how many coats. It is foam, so it is not necessarily 'wise' to invest a ton of money and paint. After a couple of good bashes you will wonder why you put so much into the paint job for a foam plane.

[unojrcan]

Ok Guys, I Was Told That You Could Use Design Master Spray Paint On Foam Planes. I Tried It And It Melts The Foam. Now, The Kryon H20 Paint Is What I Ended Up Useing. It Did Not Melt The Foam. Hope This Helps Some Of You ....

[jridge]

Anyone know of a craft store acrylic paint (like FolkArt or Apple Barrel) that is glossy. Everything I've seen is a flat. I know I can apply a glossy clear coat, but if my end goal is for a glossy finish, why should I start by applying a flat paint?

[IPFlyer]

Apple Barrel makes high gloss acrylics. In a can, Krylon H2O is available in gloss.

[LouieB]

Anyone know of a craft store acrylic paint (like FolkArt or Apple Barrel) that is glossy. Everything I've seen is a flat. I know I can apply a glossy clear coat, but if my end goal is for a glossy finish, why should I start by applying a flat paint?

The advantage of applying a glossy clear coat over your base paint is that it will help to protect the paint job. This is rather handy for planes that lack landing gears or tend to suffer hanger rash.

[wparsons]

I've been using Createx auto air colors so far, from an airbrush. It's acrylic, so totally safe, easy clean up, and it covers well.

Big array of colours too!

http://vnc.thewpp.ca/photos/formosa/PICT0021.jpg

http://vnc.thewpp.ca/photos/formosa/PICT0030.jpg

[RvMan56]

Guys I found a site that has foam hardner and coats it, sandable and paintable.

http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/home.php?cat=249

[Hack73]

Guys I found a site that has foam hardner and coats it, sandable and paintable.

http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/home.php?cat=249

Has anyone tried this stuff?

[Guz]

Hey guys, thought I would post a formula for making reducer for acrylic (waterbase paints). This was found on several airbrush forums, I have tried it and it works extremely well :D

Reducer Formula for waterbased paints:
3 parts Distilled Water
1 part Denatured Alcohol (NOT rubbing alcohol)
1 part isopropanol based window cleaner (Eagle 20/20 from HF or Autozone etc)
few drops Glycerin.

So when I make 20oz of reducer its 12oz water, 4oz alcohol, 4oz window cleaner and 10 drops glycerin. Don't use too much glycerin or your paint wont dry.


Denatured Alcohol can be found at most hardware stores (Ace, Home Depot, Lowes, etc)

Glycerin can be found at most drug stores (except Wallgreens for some reason), look in the cosmetic section as a skin moisturizer.

If you are using an airbrush, thin out the paint with the above reducer to consistency of whole milk. Great results!!!

[bwalt822]

Is it possible to dye foam similar to how you dye a canopy?

[cwil58]

Guys I found a site that has foam hardner and coats it, sandable and paintable.

http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/home.php?cat=249
I am curious also on the use of this coating, and how much weight it would add.

[cwil58]

Wrote hot wire foam factory, and the owner builds his own foam planes and recommends the bounce coating with a little foam cover. If you use the foam cover by itself it would make the plane to heavy. I think I will try it on a lynx plane I started and weigh it before and after. And post the results