E-Sky E-Smart 600 series build thread

[FlybyPDX]

No that is WITH the batteries..

Heli w/ motor $185
4 x 1700 mah 20c $100
parrallel and series connector $10
Servos $60
ESC $40
BEC $6
GY401 $138.00
Futaba 8ch rx $60

$599.00

I'll put a calipre to the boom when I get home..


I like that price. I think I will have one too. :):)

[mrmuffinmanvw]

I like that price. I think I will have one too. :):)
Join the club we are getting the E-Smart pretty sorted out at this point there is enough of us that know what we are doing with it and seem to be going in the right direction. Two more should be in the air soon right John and Frank.

[cfrank2005]

Join the club we are getting the E-Smart pretty sorted out at this point there is enough of us that know what we are doing with it and seem to be going in the right direction. Two more should be in the air soon right John and Frank.
Yep..having some problems sorting out the 2100T gyro and the ScannerRC SSV-9764MG servo. I'm not getting full throws on the gyro servo, and the response on the servos are very slow. Will have to review Brovic's video on youtube on the gyro. Hopefully will have that sorted out soon.

[hate]

Hi guys...

had posted a few weeks ago a problem i've been expericing with my e-smart...

at first time, i was using 4 3s 2250 15c packs together, resulting in a 4500 15c 6s pack...

in the first hover, there was a lot of motor cut-off, specially when i tried to climb out quickly...

tought it could be something about the pack due different resistence of each one, and sold them...

now i boutgh a himodel 6s1p 4100 15c pack, wich theorically gives e around 60A...

hovered it today down there in my bulding and within 6 minutes i experienced another motor cutoff...

i am not confident to fly around due that, must solve it before...

have any of you guys experieced such a problem?

i heard that for big lipos like this, they must be cycled 5 times before use, or hover 5 minutes for 5 times so that the lipo gets its best condiction... is it true?

anyway, i'll wait for a few more hovers to come before going deeper into the problem...

but any help would be apreciated by now..

here is the video of the third hover, not enough space to make a small circuit, just pure hover: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehhScjhXEhg

[john339]

Nice hovering. What amperage is your esc? Could it be the problem?

[hate]

The esc is a hextronic 120A, no way it is the esc, unless we are talking about some setting, i'll take another look at the settings, but i am sure it is not this, once this esc is very simple, and does not have so much features...

I don't think it is draining more than 60A, no way...

this motor is supposed to work at maximum 60A, for full 3d...

hard climbings should drain around 40~45A i guess...

[jsy nobby]

Hi guys...

had posted a few weeks ago a problem i've been expericing with my e-smart...

at first time, i was using 4 3s 2250 15c packs together, resulting in a 4500 15c 6s pack...

in the first hover, there was a lot of motor cut-off, specially when i tried to climb out quickly...

tought it could be something about the pack due different resistence of each one, and sold them...

now i boutgh a himodel 6s1p 4100 15c pack, wich theorically gives e around 60A...

hovered it today down there in my bulding and within 6 minutes i experienced another motor cutoff...

i am not confident to fly around due that, must solve it before...

have any of you guys experieced such a problem?

i heard that for big lipos like this, they must be cycled 5 times before use, or hover 5 minutes for 5 times so that the lipo gets its best condiction... is it true?

anyway, i'll wait for a few more hovers to come before going deeper into the problem...

but any help would be apreciated by now..

here is the video of the third hover, not enough space to make a small circuit, just pure hover: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehhScjhXEhg

Have you checked the mesh of the gears I.E. the gap between the pinion and main gear and the gap between the main and tail drive gears? Just a hunch,but too much clearance between the teeth will cause them to slip and jam,stopping the motor momentarily.

-Andy

[jsy nobby]

Yep..having some problems sorting out the 2100T gyro and the ScannerRC SSV-9764MG servo. I'm not getting full throws on the gyro servo, and the response on the servos are very slow. Will have to review Brovic's video on youtube on the gyro. Hopefully will have that sorted out soon.

This might help a bit Frank.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=670786

-Andy

[hate]

Have you checked the mesh of the gears I.E. the gap between the pinion and main gear and the gap between the main and tail drive gears? Just a hunch,but too much clearance between the teeth will cause them to slip and jam,stopping the motor momentarily.

-Andy

The distance i use between pinion and gear is a paper thickness...

i smach a a4 paper between the pinion and the main gear and push it off later...

but i'll re-check it again...

when the cutoffs hapen, the tail spin, that's explained by the fact that if the motor stops, the trasmition to the tail is not done, once it is not done, the tail do not have ways to counter the torque that the main blades is still generating....

[cfrank2005]

This might help a bit Frank.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=670786

-Andy
Thanks Andy...that will be most helpful. I am using a DX7 Tx and AR7000 Rx with this gyro. Anyone know if I should set this servo(ScannerRC SSV-9764MG) as digital in the gyro setup?

[jsy nobby]

Thanks Andy...that will be most helpful. I am using a DX7 Tx and AR7000 Rx with this gyro. Anyone know if I should set this servo(ScannerRC SSV-9764MG) as digital in the gyro setup?

It would appear that those servos are digital Frank.

[jsy nobby]

The distance i use between pinion and gear is a paper thickness...

i smach a a4 paper between the pinion and the main gear and push it off later...

but i'll re-check it again...

when the cutoffs hapen, the tail spin, that's explained by the fact that if the motor stops, the trasmition to the tail is not done, once it is not done, the tail do not have ways to counter the torque that the main blades is still generating....

Sounds like the backlash is good....the only other things I can think of at the mo are that the LVC on the BESC is set too high or shut down instead of reducing power or the screws that mount the motor to the plate are too long and are touching the windings of the motor and causing a short.

-Andy

[cfrank2005]

It would appear that those servos are digital Frank.
Thanks Andy. Little confusion when trying to set this up, as the instructions says "..(separate connector of servo before Setup)". So, I disconnected the gyro servo connector and powered the heli, but the gyro just blinks a red light and not allow any inputs to be set. That'll teach me to "Read the F**king Manual". Then I powered off the heli, connected the servo back up, and upon powering up the heli and tried to change this value to std digital (2), but servo just buzzes on me. BTW it's set to std analog (3) by default. Tried dedicated servo (1) but buzzes as well. Seems to work in analog mode :confused: Should I leave this as default then? The servo seems to take about 1 second to respond upon pushing the rudder stick in either direction.

[hate]

Sounds like the backlash is good....the only other things I can think of at the mo are that the LVC on the BESC is set too high or shut down instead of reducing power or the screws that mount the motor to the plate are too long and are touching the windings of the motor and causing a short.

-Andy

Tks for ur sugestions...

actualy, the lvc is set to 3v... should i decrease to 2.8 ?

It is set to reduce power, and not to shutdow...

about the screws, they are the one that came with the motor, they have spacers in both sides of the motor mounting, either below and above the mounting i mean, and it does not touch the windings....

i'll set my esc up again, perhaps there may have been some mistake in my first configuration...

but please, let me know, should i decrease lvc to 2.8?

[PLATINUM]

Thanks Andy...that will be most helpful. I am using a DX7 Tx and AR7000 Rx with this gyro. Anyone know if I should set this servo(ScannerRC SSV-9764MG) as digital in the gyro setup?

NO! these are not digi servos.. you will burn it out if you do.



Jsy...

My guess is that you have the low voltage cutoff set incorrectly on the esc... or your batteries can't hack the draw of the e-smart. I only run the 80 am HXT esc.. and its fine.

[cfrank2005]

NO! these are not digi servos.. you will burn it out if you do.

Thanks Plat...good save too. I was about to set it up when I got home tonight from work. ;)

[jsy nobby]

Thanks Plat...good save too. I was about to set it up when I got home tonight from work. ;)


Doh crap! sorry frank...my bad! :o with regards to your other post,i'd say you need to tinker with the rotate rate setting on the gyro....might help make the servo a bit faster.But that's just a guess.

-Andy

[jsy nobby]

Tks for ur sugestions...

actualy, the lvc is set to 3v... should i decrease to 2.8 ?

It is set to reduce power, and not to shutdow...

about the screws, they are the one that came with the motor, they have spacers in both sides of the motor mounting, either below and above the mounting i mean, and it does not touch the windings....

i'll set my esc up again, perhaps there may have been some mistake in my first configuration...

but please, let me know, should i decrease lvc to 2.8?

No.leave it at 3v per cell or you'll cook your batteries....

-Andy

[cfrank2005]

Doh crap! sorry frank...my bad! :o with regards to your other post,i'd say you need to tinker with the rotate rate setting on the gyro....might help make the servo a bit faster.But that's just a guess.

-Andy
That's ok Andy, that's why we're all here...to help each other out, thru trial & error and experience. :)

[jsy nobby]

NO! these are not digi servos.. you will burn it out if you do.



Jsy...

My guess is that you have the low voltage cutoff set incorrectly on the esc... or your batteries can't hack the draw of the e-smart. I only run the 80 am HXT esc.. and its fine.

Hey Plat...Mine goes fine,it's Hate who's having the cut-out problems! :p

[jsy nobby]

The esc is a hextronic 120A, no way it is the esc, unless we are talking about some setting, i'll take another look at the settings, but i am sure it is not this, once this esc is very simple, and does not have so much features...

I don't think it is draining more than 60A, no way...

this motor is supposed to work at maximum 60A, for full 3d...

hard climbings should drain around 40~45A i guess...

Maybe it is your ESC.....I went for a Dualsky 90 amp controller(Have an 80 amp CC phoenix 80 just in case) and it's holding out well. Barely even warm after 10 minutes of hovering about,batteries are warm,but not hot. E-Sky recommend an 80 Amp controller for the E-Smart, and, after making a rather large dent in my bank balance, I've since found out that overkill isn't really neccessary.....You may well find that your 120 amp controller is trying to work your motor or batteries too hard and not getting the juice it needs to run properly.....See if it's warm after flying ,if it's really hot then try swapping it out for a smaller amperage unit. I fly one of my Belt's on a 40 amp controller and it's the only model I have that runs really hot.The other two I fly on 25 amp controllers, and, as the motors only draw a maximum of 20 amps flat out, the speed controllers and batteries would just about melt butter....I think the old saying applies to this....Size is no measure of strength.... :D

-Andy

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Hey Andy I bit the big one today and went for 2 of the 5000 mAh 11.1 poly quest enerland batteries it was costly but you only live once. The mega powers will go back to work in the belt cp. I was flying it yesterday and it really flys great my friend was over with his Trex and the belt will do everything the Rex will and just as good for less than half the price boy does he feel dumb. I would believe the new batteries will give me more flight time also. I guess the batteries were the biggest expense they cost more than the heli kit oh well what ya gunna do you really need them if your serious about this hobby.

[jsy nobby]

Hey Andy I bit the one today and went for 2 of the 5000 mAh 11.1 poly quest enerland batteries it was costly but you only live once. The mega powers will go back to work in the belt cp. I was flying it yesterday and it really flys great my friend was over with his Trex and the belt will do everything the Rex will and just as good for less than half the price boy does he feel dumb. I would believe the new batteries will give me more flight time also. I guess the batteries were the biggest expense they cost more than the heli kit oh well what ya gunna do you really need them if your serious about this hobby.

Hmmmm...I guess that's why I never got a T-rex....Over- rated IMHO....As you well know,A Belt is a real contender.....Just gotta lurve E-sky for their kahunas... :D :D

-Andy

[PLATINUM]

I wouldn't say a T-rex is over rated.. Align makes very fine products. However, If I can get something that is nearly as good for a fraction of the price, well its a no brainer.

For the 450 class the T-rex SA is a great heli from all reports.. but the SE V2 is a rediculous price for that size heli.. $100-$200 more an your in the air with a ES600..

[jsy nobby]

I wouldn't say a T-rex is over rated.. Align makes very fine products. However, If I can get something that is nearly as good for a fraction of the price, well its a no brainer.

For the 450 class the T-rex SA is a great heli from all reports.. but the SE V2 is a rediculous price for that size heli.. $100-$200 more an your in the air with a ES600..

For how I fly at the mo Plat,I just can't justify spending a whole heap on something I'm undoubtedly going to crash....I feel that this is where E-Sky comes into it's own niche....I'm sure you'll agree that not only are they cheap and fairly easy to fly when you know what you're doing,they're cheap to fix when you crash too...Hell,I just spent 5k on a brand spanking new motorcycle, I'd be really miffed if I crashed it...The £100:00 for a barebones with a motor seems to blur into insignificance really... :D :D

-Andy

[john339]

Come on Andy and tell us what you bought.
There are a lot of motorcyclists on this forum.
Well, at least three I know of.

[jsy nobby]

Come on Andy and tell us what you bought.
There are a lot of motorcyclists on this forum.
Well, at least three I know of.

2007 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2....I posted a pic on the Belt thread...There are a few bikers there too! :D

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1558438

-Andy

[cfrank2005]

Guess what..I've just maidened her today. The best flight I have had since I started this hobby. I got the lovely wife to take photos and a video. Here r the pics first..and video coming as soon as I can process it. No fancy 3D but just hovering and testing the tail hold. Thank you to everyone here for the help in setting her up. Bloody Awesome!!!

[jsy nobby]

Guess what..I've just maidened her today. The best flight I have had since I started this hobby. I got the lovely wife to take photos and a video. Here r the pics first..and video coming as soon as I can process it. No fancy 3D but just hovering and testing the tail hold. Thank you to everyone here for the help in setting her up. Bloody Awesome!!!

Nice one Frank...John'll be along soon I reckon! :D

-Andy

[hate]

Maybe it is your ESC.....I went for a Dualsky 90 amp controller(Have an 80 amp CC phoenix 80 just in case) and it's holding out well. Barely even warm after 10 minutes of hovering about,batteries are warm,but not hot. E-Sky recommend an 80 Amp controller for the E-Smart, and, after making a rather large dent in my bank balance, I've since found out that overkill isn't really neccessary.....You may well find that your 120 amp controller is trying to work your motor or batteries too hard and not getting the juice it needs to run properly.....See if it's warm after flying ,if it's really hot then try swapping it out for a smaller amperage unit. I fly one of my Belt's on a 40 amp controller and it's the only model I have that runs really hot.The other two I fly on 25 amp controllers, and, as the motors only draw a maximum of 20 amps flat out, the speed controllers and batteries would just about melt butter....I think the old saying applies to this....Size is no measure of strength.... :D

-Andy

Yesterday i had another hover...

that one lasted for around 9 minutes... It's true that i am running at a low head speed, what explains such a long flight time, but that hs is enough for hover and circuits flight, i am even thinking about leave it there in my normal flight mode and just increase it in either idle 1 or 2...

In that last hover from yesterday, i noticed that after the flight, the speed control was the part that was hotter... not that hot so that you could no touch it, but it was warmer than battery and motor.... today, i'll use a thermometer to measure exactly how hot it is...

By my knowledges, a bigger capacity speed control would run cooler than a smaller one, like your motor is draining 60A, if your speed is 80A theorically it should run hotter than if it was a 120 one, i also used to apply it for batteries... it's been like this since i started this hobby, but after you said that, i am not sure anymore....

But it seems like it is getting better, perhaps it was really the battery that was not prepared to give out the needed drain....

[beer-man]

I finally started building, also just ordered a dewalt pack and some new vpx packs from amazon. I've got to hurry up before the snow sets in.

[PLATINUM]

Sweet! Gratz on your maiden Frank :)

[mrmuffinmanvw]

I finally started building, also just ordered a dewalt pack and some new vpx packs from amazon. I've got to hurry up before the snow sets in.Let us know how the a123 cells work for you I just went the other way and got 2 5000mAh poly quest enerland 11.1 batteries to tie togeather they were costly but are sure to deliver the power I need.

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Frank I bet your glad that everything went well it sure beats a crash on the first flight. Now if John has as much luck as you did it will be awsome to have 2 more E-Smarts in the air.

[john339]

John is trimming the canopy window and needs to know what to use to glue it together.
CA?

[mrmuffinmanvw]

John is trimming the canopy window and needs to know what to use to glue it together.
CA?
Yes John I used CA on the window and hot glue for the cooling screens and that worked well. I would try a small spot on the window to see if the CA reacts to the paint you used. You must be getting close now I hope you have as much luck with yours as Frank had with his. Best of luck on the maiden flight.

[john339]

OK Thanks again.
I now have the gyro reversed so all seems almost ready.
I will weigh the blades and get them the same and then track them before winding it up.
Just at low rpms it sounds VERY serious.

[jsy nobby]

Do any of you fine fellows have a pic of an assembled metal rotorhead? I'm having a little trouble assembling mine without any instructions...

-Andy

[jsy nobby]

OK Thanks again.
I now have the gyro reversed so all seems almost ready.
I will weigh the blades and get them the same and then track them before winding it up.
Just at low rpms it sounds VERY serious.

Oh yeah...The Smart's a powerful beast alright John! :D

=Andy

[john339]

Why sure Andy. Here's a link to Mark's thread on the build.
He has the metal head and lots of pictures.
http://heliguy.com/rchelicopterblogs/mark25v6/e-sky-e-smart-600-helicopter-build-guide/#comment-5

[jsy nobby]

Why sure Andy. Here's a link to Mark's thread on the build.
He has the metal head and lots of pictures.
http://heliguy.com/rchelicopterblogs/mark25v6/e-sky-e-smart-600-helicopter-build-guide/#comment-5


Thanks John....But that's a metal/plastic head which I have already.I'm upgrading to a full metal head swash and washout.I pretty much have it sussed out but I'm unsure about a couple of things.

-Andy

[cfrank2005]

Thanks guys...she's a dream to fly. Even with the breeze that was blowing yesterday, she was solid as a rock. I've got the vid ready, but is 13Megs a bit too big to upload here? Any suggestions on where to place the vid otherwise?

[john339]

Andy, how about this shot.

[tkn0spdr]

Thanks guys...she's a dream to fly. Even with the breeze that was blowing yesterday, she was solid as a rock. I've got the vid ready, but is 13Megs a bit too big to upload here? Any suggestions on where to place the vid otherwise?You can e-mail it to me and I'll optimize it and host it for you.

Thanks,
David
http://www.technospider.com
david@technospider.com

[jsy nobby]

Andy, how about this shot.

Now I'm confused.The metal grips I have have larger ID bearings than the OD of the stock feathering shaft...There are a few different types of head you can get for the E-Smart,so it doesn't surprise me that there are gonna be no-nos when it comes to the parts being compatible.This is mine so far.It needs larger thrust bearings and blade dampers.I've also used the stock brass spacers from the plastic pitch control arms to get the linkages as square as I can.Once I'm done I'll post a list of the part numbers needed to go full metal.The only other part I'm gonna need to finish the job will be the see-saw.I started out just wanting metal grips..... :D :D

-Andy

[cfrank2005]

You can e-mail it to me and I'll optimize it and host it for you.

Thanks,
David
http://www.technospider.com
david@technospider.com
Thanks for the offer David. I'll send it to you tonight when I get home. I've already converted it into divx format using xvid encoder, but it's still too big. See what you can do with it.

[jsy nobby]

Thanks guys...she's a dream to fly. Even with the breeze that was blowing yesterday, she was solid as a rock. I've got the vid ready, but is 13Megs a bit too big to upload here? Any suggestions on where to place the vid otherwise?

Youtube has an upload limit of 100MB or ten minutes I believe(I may well stand corrected)....You'll need to create an account tho.

[sting35]

....I started out just wanting metal grips..... :D :D

-Andy

Ditto. In fact, all I've got right now is the metal grips. At least until the package from Helidirect arrives. :o ... lol.

Sting

[john339]

Very pretty. It should fly VERY well with all those carefully machined thingys.
Just hang it up above the mantle and admire it.
This probably is another dumb question but do you have DSL on your small island?

[cfrank2005]

Youtube has an upload limit of 100MB or ten minutes I believe(I may well stand corrected)....You'll need to create an account tho.
ok..I'll consider that too. Thanks Andy.

BTW, what is the longest blade anyone has put on their heli? I put a 600mm CF blade on last night to test her out and she hovered perfectly. I'm just a bit worried about the weight of those blades though. The std wooden blades are about 160g per pair, but the CF ones I got were 270g per pair. May be too much for the plastic head to take. The CF blade I put on was from helidirect. Here is the link to it:
HDX 600mm FRP Carbon Fiber Black/White Main Blades for 3C
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?products_id=2559
Like yours thoughts on the matter. Will be flying wooden for now.

[jsy nobby]

Very pretty. It should fly VERY well with all those carefully machined thingys.
Just hang it up above the mantle and admire it.
This probably is another dumb question but do you have DSL on your small island?

This is where my world is arse-about-face John...I have a 2meg ADSL line,a nice bike,a pretty nifty computer(built it myself),and a great hobby that keeps my mind busy for hours........ Do we have a model shop? Foo-wee-duck..... :D :D

-Andy

[jsy nobby]

Ditto. In fact, all I've got right now is the metal grips. At least until the package from Helidirect arrives. :o ... lol.

Sting

Oh boy,are you in for a crapstorm.... :p Just kidding....I'm a Guinea pig in that the E-Smart is a bit of a novelty on the little rock I live on....I had a bit of a mix up with the parts I needed to upgrade the head,the online store I get my bits from sent the wrong bits and I ordered incorrect parts thinking they'd work.Not the case, but my supplier has since been kind enough to make sure that the components will function as they should. I hear that HD have a very good reputation,so you'll probably have exactly what you need straight out of the Jiffy bag...

-Andy

[PLATINUM]

Andy just finished my custom built PC :)

2 256mb 7900GTs in SLI
Gigabyte 570 chipset
4GB PC6400
AMD 64 X2 6000
500gb SATAs
Modular 580watt PS
Modular Case (put racks on HDs and Burners..just slide em in)
uber hs and fan
SB audigy ..not the best, but its 7.1 and 24 bit which is enough for me.

Not the most top of the line system.. but for less than $900.00 I can't complain to much :D

[john339]

Andy

We have a hobby store about 10 miles from me.
That is where I was told I didn't need to use the balancing leads on the Lipos and that they would automatically balance through time.
I also learned that only Trex choppers would fly and that my King was a very poor chopper. They did get me to buy a Bladecp as a learner chopper and I still have a terrible time with it but I can sorta fly my King.
I bet there are many other things to learn at our hobby shop but I try not to go there and use the web for my orders and the forums for my learning.

[cfrank2005]

Andy

We have a hobby store about 10 miles from me.
That is where I was told I didn't need to use the balancing leads on the Lipos and that they would automatically balance through time.
I also learned that only Trex choppers would fly and that my King was a very poor chopper. They did get me to buy a Bladecp as a learner chopper and I still have a terrible time with it but I can sorta fly my King.
I bet there are many other things to learn at our hobby shop but I try not to go there and use the web for my orders and the forums for my learning.
I have found a few shops here in Melbourne very helpful, for getting spare parts for the more popular helis like Trex and Dragonus. Also great to get advise on using alternatives to spares for helis purchased from overseas. However, I have found their prices on products very dear, up to 3 times more than can be bought over the net. So, my major purchases and learning has been over the web as well.
So John, have you flown your ESmart yet?

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Andy

We have a hobby store about 10 miles from me.
That is where I was told I didn't need to use the balancing leads on the Lipos and that they would automatically balance through time.
I also learned that only Trex choppers would fly and that my King was a very poor chopper. They did get me to buy a Bladecp as a learner chopper and I still have a terrible time with it but I can sorta fly my King.
I bet there are many other things to learn at our hobby shop but I try not to go there and use the web for my orders and the forums for my learning.John there are a bunch of hobby shops here in Orlando I guess there should be we are a city. Anyway most are full of misinformation about heli's and most sell the blade and the Trex. I also order most of my parts online as the many shops that we have here don't stock parts for what I fly. There is one great hobby shop here and they stock every supply and are most helpful I met one of the owners when I was flying at a park close to his shop and he was interested in my Belt cp. Thats what I was flying at the time and he hadn't seen one until then. He asked a few questions about it as I was changing batteries and seemed interested he loved the fact that I was using Trex blades. We became friends and fly togeather quite often and play anything you can do I can do better my belt cp flies every bit as good as his 450 se Trex. I still have some work to do to get the E-Smart to fly as good as his 600 Trex but I will get there.

[RobDog]

Just got one from JGRC for demo, very excited!

Guys, I looked through the posts to find out where that brass ring goes and cannot find it. In the parts breakdown in the back of the manual it looks like it goes right on top of the main gear.

Any help would be appreciated.

Rob

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Just got one from JGRC for demo, very excited!

Guys, I looked through the posts to find out where that brass ring goes and cannot find it. In the parts breakdown in the back of the manual it looks like it goes right on top of the main gear.

Any help would be appreciated.

RobRob it goes between the lower bearing and the main gear or under the main gear it is a spacer that rides on the inner bearing race and takes the thrust of the blades as they lift the heli.

[jsy nobby]

Just got one from JGRC for demo, very excited!

Guys, I looked through the posts to find out where that brass ring goes and cannot find it. In the parts breakdown in the back of the manual it looks like it goes right on top of the main gear.

Any help would be appreciated.

Rob

Heh...there's a picture on the first post of this thread Rob.

-Andy

[jsy nobby]

Rob it goes between the lower bearing and the main gear or under the main gear it is a spacer that rides on the inner bearing race and takes the thrust of the blades as they lift the heli.

Had a good week Mr M?

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Had a good week Mr M?I have been buzy with work and mechanical repairs on my cars also got a 1994 Mazda Miata that I have been using and fixing up as I go along it seems to run great at this point and saving me some money on gas its also alot of fun to drive. The weather has gotten colder nothing like you see but lots of wind. The new batteries are on there way fed ex so the E-Smart is on hold till they get here. Other than that its the same old same old.

[jsy nobby]

I have been buzy with work and mechanical repairs on my cars also got a 1994 Mazda Miata that I have been using and fixing up as I go along it seems to run great at this point and saving me some money on gas its also alot of fun to drive. The weather has gotten colder nothing like you see but lots of wind. The new batteries are on there way fed ex so the E-Smart is on hold till they get here. Other than that its the same old same old.

Been a busy one for me too....The PSU in my PC decided to give up the ghost mid week,I was fortunate (for a change! :D ) in that I had a spare and work's been flat out, the world of physical security has taxed me good and proper!

On the heli subject, My ES is waiting on thrust bearings for the metal head. The wrong ones arrived today after I was assured that they'd be the correct parts....Not that I'm concerned 'cos the weather's 'sposed to crap this weekend,but knowing my luck it'll turn out warm and sunny! :D :D If that turns out to be the case,my Belts might just get out and about for a bit but it's not looking good at the mo.

-Andy

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Been a busy one for me too....The PSU in my PC decided to give up the ghost mid week,I was fortunate (for a change! :D ) in that I had a spare and work's been flat out, the world of physical security has taxed me good and proper!

On the heli subject, My ES is waiting on thrust bearings for the metal head. The wrong ones arrived today after I was assured that they'd be the correct parts....Not that I'm concerned 'cos the weather's 'sposed to crap this weekend,but knowing my luck it'll turn out warm and sunny! :D :D If that turns out to be the case,my Belts might just get out and about for a bit but it's not looking good at the mo.

-AndyI was just wondering why you are changing over to the metal head on your e-smart. Mine seems to work very well with the stock setup and I am going to be using the 550 woodies that I got from HD when I got the bird just put them on for lack of something better to do. I just checked Fed ex tracking and the new batteries should be here tomorrow. Maybe I will have the big guy back in the air this weekend.

[john339]

I was getting the canopy ready to paint and the dark plastic windshield just popped off.
I guess the CA didn't grip too well.
I was going to protect the windshield anyway so now I can paint and then re-glue.
Maybe silicone?

[RobDog]

If your not going to use screws, try shoe goo to secure it.

[john339]

I didn't even think of screws.
Lots of tiny ones I guess.
Shoe goo? interesting. Possibly contact cement?
Maybe the cement I use to stick trim to the rv?

[RobDog]

LOL, I couldn't see the red mark on the thumbnail. Thanks!

[Tweekster]

Oh boy,are you in for a crapstorm.... :p Just kidding....I'm a Guinea pig in that the E-Smart is a bit of a novelty on the little rock I live on....I had a bit of a mix up with the parts I needed to upgrade the head,the online store I get my bits from sent the wrong bits and I ordered incorrect parts thinking they'd work.Not the case, but my supplier has since been kind enough to make sure that the components will function as they should. I hear that HD have a very good reputation,so you'll probably have exactly what you need straight out of the Jiffy bag...

-Andy

So what did it take to get the metal grips to work correctly?

I finally have some time to work on the big beast, just waiting on a few more parts to show up. Mine came from Nick with a few metal parts already on it, but I couldn't resist and ordered a few more. :D

I got these parts:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=4749

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=4747

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=165&products_id=4759

Is this combination of parts going to work?

[jsy nobby]

So what did it take to get the metal grips to work correctly?

I finally have some time to work on the big beast, just waiting on a few more parts to show up. Mine came from Nick with a few metal parts already on it, but I couldn't resist and ordered a few more. :D

I got these parts:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=4749

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=4747

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=165&products_id=4759

Is this combination of parts going to work?

Yep,but you're gonna need a new feathering shaft,dampers and thrust bearings too Tweek. Feathering shaft is EK5-0323A,Dampers are EK5-0386A and the thrust bearings are anyone's guess 'cos I just can't seem to get the right flippin' ones! :D they might arrive tomorrow!

-Andy

[jsy nobby]

I was getting the canopy ready to paint and the dark plastic windshield just popped off.
I guess the CA didn't grip too well.
I was going to protect the windshield anyway so now I can paint and then re-glue.
Maybe silicone?

there's primer you can get for plastic that makes CA work,apply it to the "glass" bit.Rough up the contact surface on the canopy as well with some fine abrasive paper,this helps give the glue something to key into. I used the screws on mine with CA. Had to drill 1mm pilot holes tho.

-Andy

[sting35]

Yep,but you're gonna need a new feathering shaft,dampers and thrust bearings too Tweek. Feathering shaft is EK5-0323A,Dampers are EK5-0386A and the thrust bearings are anyone's guess 'cos I just can't seem to get the right flippin' ones! :D they might arrive tomorrow!

-Andy

As the beaver said, 'dam, dam, dam!' I just checked my receipt from HD, I got everything BUT those apparently. And I was sure that I had those pieces in the cart because the feathering shaft was what I went there to order. :confused:

I was just wondering why you are changing over to the metal head on your e-smart. Mine seems to work very well with the stock setup and I am going to be using the 550 woodies that I got from HD when I got the bird just put them on for lack of something better to do. I just checked Fed ex tracking and the new batteries should be here tomorrow. Maybe I will have the big guy back in the air this weekend.

In my case, it's because I'm fascinated by small, shiny objects. :D There's no need to upgrade at all unless, like me, you have more money than common sense. :rolleyes: Let me know how those woodies work out. I'm going to bust up the stock ones then mount the others next.

Sting

[cfrank2005]

As the beaver said, 'dam, dam, dam!' I just checked my receipt from HD, I got everything BUT those apparently. And I was sure that I had those pieces in the cart because the feathering shaft was what I went there to order. :confused:
Sting
Hi Sting..happened to me b4 too. Items placed in the cart gone missing by the time I checked out. When I first placed my big order for the E-Smart ensemble somehow the deans connectors went missing from the cart. Had to place another order & wait another 2 weeks for them to arrive

In my case, it's because I'm fascinated by small, shiny objects. :D There's no need to upgrade at all unless, like me, you have more money than common sense. :rolleyes: Let me know how those woodies work out. I'm going to bust up the stock ones then mount the others next.
Sting
Metal head sounds good too. Have to start sussing out spares soon & metal parts sounds devine for the big bird. :)

[Tweekster]

Yep,but you're gonna need a new feathering shaft,dampers and thrust bearings too Tweek. Feathering shaft is EK5-0323A,Dampers are EK5-0386A and the thrust bearings are anyone's guess 'cos I just can't seem to get the right flippin' ones! :D they might arrive tomorrow!

-Andy

Well crapola!

I got the 0323A feathering shaft, so I need the black 0386A or red 0386B dampers?

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7322

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7323

I don't have the manual in front of me, but one of these has to be for the tail and the other 2 for the various head configurations:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7288

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7296

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7324

FWIW the metal tail box is a nice piece of work!

[jsy nobby]

Well crapola!

I got the 0323A feathering shaft, so I need the black 0386A or red 0386B dampers?

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7322

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7323

I don't have the manual in front of me, but one of these has to be for the tail and the other 2 for the various head configurations:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7288

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7296

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7324

FWIW the metal tail box is a nice piece of work!

Red dampers?...Holy Flippin ' cow Batman! How many more spanners are gonna be thrown in for F#@k's ache... :D

These don't fit....http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7296

Dunno 'bout these either
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7324

[john339]

Don't throw out the old plastic parts yet.............
Here is the newly painted and two bolted canopy.
This paint, Krylon, seems to scratch very easily.
I also don't know if I like blue.
I only hover and fly close and slow so I won't lose it in the sky.
I used two small bolts, one on either side.

[jsy nobby]

Don't throw out the old plastic parts yet.............
Here is the newly painted and two bolted canopy.
This paint, Krylon, seems to scratch very easily.
I also don't know if I like blue.
I only hover and fly close and slow so I won't lose it in the sky.
I used two small bolts, one on either side.

Any paint will scratch easily if it's freshly applied John...The longer you leave it cure the better..I see your point about the blue tho...You may well lose it on a blue sky day! :D

-Andy

[PLATINUM]

Heh! When you all figure it out let me know.. I'll post it in the 1st thread ;) sounds like it will eventually save someone the pita we have all gone through. I had same problem with the tail.. no one has the upgrade tail rotor shaft (black one me thinks) that works with the cnc tail grips.

Lucky these parts are cheap I guess..

[jsy nobby]

As the beaver said, 'dam, dam, dam!' I just checked my receipt from HD, I got everything BUT those apparently. And I was sure that I had those pieces in the cart because the feathering shaft was what I went there to order. :confused:



In my case, it's because I'm fascinated by small, shiny objects. :D There's no need to upgrade at all unless, like me, you have more money than common sense. :rolleyes: Let me know how those woodies work out. I'm going to bust up the stock ones then mount the others next.

Sting

What part number did you use for the thrust bearings Sting?

-Andy

[hate]

So what did it take to get the metal grips to work correctly?

I finally have some time to work on the big beast, just waiting on a few more parts to show up. Mine came from Nick with a few metal parts already on it, but I couldn't resist and ordered a few more. :D

I got these parts:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=4749

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=4747

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=165&products_id=4759

Is this combination of parts going to work?

Up to now i haven't managed yet how to use either the stock spindle or the upgrade spindle properly with the metal blade grips...

what solved my case was using a raptor 30/50 spindle, which is even easier to lock in place due the fact that it is not held by nuts on both tips, but by screws that are placed inside the spindle in its tips, got it?

If you manage how to put the upgrade spindle to work please let me know...

[hate]

Guys,

here is my question again...


Haven't any of you made a REAL test on AMP DRAIN in this bird?

Whenever a new heli comes out most of the popular web sites perform a lot of tests with a on board Amp meter...

As i do not have a meter like thoses, i count on any of you guys to find out how many amps we are talking about...

It seems like my "cut-outs" problems has been fixed by itself, perhaps it was really the battery getting used....

With thotle curve higher than 90%, the battery really got hot in my last flight as i said a few posts ago, something around 55C...

So guys, could some of you who own such a meter draw some graph with current drain in fast climbs, hover, sport flights and if possible some 3d maneuvers...

I count on you...

[Tweekster]

Heh! When you all figure it out let me know.. I'll post it in the 1st thread ;) sounds like it will eventually save someone the pita we have all gone through. I had same problem with the tail.. no one has the upgrade tail rotor shaft (black one me thinks) that works with the cnc tail grips.

Lucky these parts are cheap I guess..

Plat,

My CNC tail worked perfectly with the tail shaft I had, it is all black, so maybe Nick changed it? It was originally in the plastic tail.

The one thing I did notice, is you have to remove the two thin silver washers from both sides of the hub, so all you see is the black plastic of the hub. Add the bronze washer to each side and it worked perfect, smooth and zero slop.

See pics below.

[Tweekster]

Guys,

The T-Rex 600 Tail rotor holder is a pretty nice piece of hardware considering the price, and a nice step up from the E-Sky Unit. It has long stubs to support the bearings, one ball bearing and one thrust bearing in each grip. Smooth movement with no slop. The T-Rex 'Bat' blades are slightly longer for more tail authority.

Here's the tail and blades I'm talking about:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=111&products_id=2221

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=1534

At $16 for the holder and $6 for the blades, this is a cheap mod.

By the way, this T-Rex holder doesn't have the nice long stubs like the previous one I listed, so the support will not be quite as good, and I don't think it has thrust bearings:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=1964

The only problem, is the bosses where the balls screw into are a little long, and combined with the offset E-Smart tail pitch holder, it forces you to set them up with trailing edge control, rather than the typical leading edge control.

Here's how to mod it for leading edge control:

1. Drill through the stock bosses with a 3/32" drill bit. This way the boss acts as a guide. Go slow and keep it straight. I just used pliers and a drill bit, no real need for powered tools here.

2. Cut the boss slightly above the radius where it meets the flat surface of the grip.

3. File the remaining boss so it's square, and just slightly above the flat surface of the grip. About a thick piece of paper worth.

4. Mod the other grip to match perfectly.

5. Assemble and note how smooth your new tail is.

[jsy nobby]

Guys,

The T-Rex 600 Tail rotor holder is a pretty nice piece of hardware considering the price, and a nice step up from the E-Sky Unit. It has long stubs to support the bearings, one ball bearing and one thrust bearing in each grip. Smooth movement with no slop. The T-Rex 'Bat' blades are slightly longer for more tail authority.

Here's the tail and blades I'm talking about:

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=111&products_id=2221

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=1534

At $16 for the holder and $6 for the blades, this is a cheap mod.

The only problem, is the bosses where the balls screw into are a little long, and combined with the offset E-Smart tail pitch holder, it forces you to set them up with trailing edge control, rather than the typical leading edge control.

Here's how to mod it for leading edge control:

1. Drill through the stock bosses with a 3/32" drill bit. This way the boss acts as a guide. Go slow and keep it straight. I just used pliers and a drill bit, no real need for powered tools here.

2. Cut the boss slightly above the radius where it meets the flat surface of the grip.

3. File the remaining boss so it's square, and just slightly above the flat surface of the grip. About a thick piece of paper worth.

4. Mod the other grip to match perfectly.

5. Assemble and note how smooth your new tail is.

Clever sod.... :D

[Tweekster]

Clever sod.... :D

I get that from having to work on British cars. :p :D

All kidding aside, this mod combined with the metal tail box gives a tail without any play in any direction and very smooth operation.

You need to try this! Plus, the T-Rex bat blades just look cool! ;)

[jsy nobby]

I get that from having to work on British cars. :p :D

All kidding aside, this mod combined with the metal tail box gives a tail without any play in any direction and very smooth operation.

You need to try this! Plus, the T-Rex bat blades just look cool! ;)

I finally bit the bullet and modded the stock parts to make the metal head work....Had a test hover this afternoon and it goes....Needs tweaking a bit more tho,the tracking's out a smidge too...Buy Blitish...Hand built by robots in Indonesia.... :D :D


-Andy

[Tweekster]

I don't have the manual in front of me, but one of these has to be for the tail and the other 2 for the various head configurations:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7288

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7296

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7324

Okay guys,

It looks like the plastic grip feathering shaft is the EK-0323 which is 5mm dia.

The EK5-0323A is the metal grip feathering shaft and it is 6mm Dia. (Nice! Larger shaft!)

I also measured the ID of grip recess where the thrust bearings fit and the metal grips are 1mm smaller in diameter than the plastic grips.

So it looks like these 5mm x 13mm thrust bearings (EK5-0354) are for the plastic grips:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7288

And these are the 6mm x 12mm thrust bearings (EK5-0387) for the Metal grips:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7324

Now it just comes down to which dampener to use, or are these just two different hardnesses? :confused:

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7322

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=B2131397&pid=NESK7323

[PLATINUM]

Plat,

My CNC tail worked perfectly with the tail shaft I had, it is all black, so maybe Nick changed it? It was originally in the plastic tail.

The one thing I did notice, is you have to remove the two thin silver washers from both sides of the hub, so all you see is the black plastic of the hub. Add the bronze washer to each side and it worked perfect, smooth and zero slop.

See pics below.

Tweek,

I have the esky cnc grips.. which fit on the stock tail rotor holder..

it is this bit I am talking about.. which does not work with to cnc grips.
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=165&products_id=4763

again..beyond getting it sorted out here, I encourage folks to make detailed comments @ HD so people who may not read this thread know what is required to make a particular upgrade :)

[Tweekster]

Tweek,

I have the esky cnc grips.. which fit on the stock tail rotor holder..

it is this bit I am talking about.. which does not work with to cnc grips.
http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=165&products_id=4763

Well, that'll teach me to have my morning coffee before typing! :D :D

I read that as cnc 'tail' not 'grips'.

[sting35]

What part number did you use for the thrust bearings Sting?

-Andy

Yawn, just waking up here. I haven't got any thrust bearings. Wasn't aware that I needed to change them out. But, if I woulda thought about it for a second; if you need a new feathering shaft, you kinda need new thrust bearings... duh! Kinda wish somebody (hint, hint, Helidirect) would just put together a 'full metal head upgrade' package.

What I have so far is:
1 x Metal Flybar Central Mount Set - ESMART EP EK5-0325B (EK5-0325B)
1 x Metal Control Shaft of Flybar - ESMART EP EK5-0303B (EK5-0303B)
1 x Metal Washout Set - ESMART EP EK5-0304B (EK5-0304B)
1 x Aluminum Head Button - ESMART EP EK5-0390 (EK5-0390)
1 x Central Hub Set (All-metal) - ESMART EP EK5-0302B (EK5-0302B)
1 x Metal Pitch control link set - ESMART EP EK5-0301A (EK5-0301A)
1 x Metal Rudder Aileron Bell Crank Set - ESMART EP EK5-0306A (EK5-0306A)
1 x Metal Front Rear Rudder Aileron Bellcrank - ESMART EP EK5-0305A (EK5-0305A)
1 x Metal Swashplate Anti-Rotation Guide - ESMART EP EK5-0322A (EK5-0322A)
(and of course, the metal grips themselves)

It appears I still need:

F6-12M Bearing (EK5-0387)

and

Red Horizontal Shaft Shock Absorber (EK5-0386B) or Black Horizontal Shaft Shock Absorber (EK5-0386A) (better yet, both since they're cheap)

and possibly, a hammer. ;) Am I missing anything (less the tail bits... haven't decide which direction to go there yet).

Sting

[hate]

When i say i have bad luck, please guys, get it like "bad luck" at all....

today at the field, i was there, happy at all, pluged batteries in, wow, it seemed like it was time for the first actual flight...

ok, batteries pluged, throtled it up, its blades start spining anddddd.... hahaha, the tail was crazy.... i didn't do anything since my last flight haha...

ok, tried to solve it, shorten tail linkage, moved ball linkage closer to the center of the servo arm, reduced gain, tried rate mode, changed tail spining direction, reset my radio and set it over again, centered gyro, removed gyro, taped it down again, nothing... the tail was "just crazy"... i am using a 401 with a 9254....

too much gain (read "maximum" 90%), the tail wags horizontally around 40cm...
decreased gain, tail wags even more wider, so that there was absolutelly no control over the tail, everytime i tried to take off the results were almost crashes...

the gyro "seems" to be working properly, it goes from rate to hh with no problem by switch and vice versa, 9254 servo seems to be responding properly to stick comands (in ground)....

tried increasing delay, nothing
tried using 9254 as a analog servo, nothing

nothing, nothing and nothing...

As i am so much lucky (have i told that before) i think either the gyro or the servo has gone... tomorrow at the field i'll try to put that servo onto a friend's heli with a 401 too, so that i could find out where the problem is...

Damm it, when i was flying nitros, my engines used to get hot, booged a lot and so on, with this e-smart, i couldn't have a descent flight yet... i think the problem that piece behind the transmiter... that's the only falty part i see..

anyway, has anyone experieced such a problem with 401+9254 before in any other heli so that could me point to some solution ?

[PLATINUM]

Is there any play on the tail rotor? i.e. does the main tail rotor shaft move at all if you tug or push on it? jesus pin broke on the tail rotor gear?

[hate]

Is there any play on the tail rotor? i.e. does the main tail rotor shaft move at all if you tug or push on it? jesus pin broke on the tail rotor gear?

no play at all...

[PLATINUM]

hmm.. belt twisted in the boom?

[hate]

hmm.. belt twisted in the boom?


Thought that it could be that too, but disassembled and that's ok, the tension is ok too...

i was getting desperate about thinking that my gyro and 9254 could have get damaged...

today, i tested both...

first, i removed my 9254 and put onto a friend's raptor 50 with his 401... result: solid as rock...

second, removed my gyro and replaced my friend's one with mine keeping my servo that was already there... result, solid as a rock....

in both tests i didn't do any adjutmes but look at his trim pots and copy it to mine...

so, either my gyro and my 9254 is working properly...

before those tests, i put a scanner rc servo (the one people are using on e-smarts around here, sold by unitedhobbies) and could hover it in piezzo/rate mode, and all of suddenly, the tail tried to scape to one side, very quickly...

but it was in the worst case, flyable...

ok... trimed its center in piezzo mode, landed, switched gyro switch 3 times as usual to memorize neutral point and took off in hh mode, with something around 50% of gain... the tail seemed to be ok, but suddenly started sliding very fast to one side and then stoped, and then started wagging very violently....

ok, landed, reduced gain to 40% took of, once again, the tail seemed to be stoped but the same results later...

tried everything again, nothing solved...

The strangest thing is that all this mess happened all of suddenly...

i also noticed that the tail shakes a lot up and down, ok, my rpm is too low, increased it to 100%, got even worse...

dammit, what may have been going on? i am about to give up on helis again.. did it one year ago when i was having misterious problems like now...

furthermore, i couldn't find any play in anywhere in the heli, my friend's raptor has a lot of play everywhere and my 401 & 9254 was solid like rock anyway...

definitally i think i am the problem...

[mrmuffinmanvw]

Thought that it could be that too, but disassembled and that's ok, the tension is ok too...

i was getting desperate about thinking that my gyro and 9254 could have get damaged...

today, i tested both...

first, i removed my 9254 and put onto a friend's raptor 50 with his 401... result: solid as rock...

second, removed my gyro and replaced my friend's one with mine keeping my servo that was already there... result, solid as a rock....

in both tests i didn't do any adjutmes but look at his trim pots and copy it to mine...

so, either my gyro and my 9254 is working properly...

before those tests, i put a scanner rc servo (the one people are using on e-smarts around here, sold by unitedhobbies) and could hover it in piezzo/rate mode, and all of suddenly, the tail tried to scape to one side, very quickly...

but it was in the worst case, flyable...

ok... trimed its center in piezzo mode, landed, switched gyro switch 3 times as usual to memorize neutral point and took off in hh mode, with something around 50% of gain... the tail seemed to be ok, but suddenly started sliding very fast to one side and then stoped, and then started wagging very violently....

ok, landed, reduced gain to 40% took of, once again, the tail seemed to be stoped but the same results later...

tried everything again, nothing solved...

The strangest thing is that all this mess happened all of suddenly...

i also noticed that the tail shakes a lot up and down, ok, my rpm is too low, increased it to 100%, got even worse...

dammit, what may have been going on? i am about to give up on helis again.. did it one year ago when i was having misterious problems like now...

furthermore, i couldn't find any play in anywhere in the heli, my friend's raptor has a lot of play everywhere and my 401 & 9254 was solid like rock anyway...

definitally i think i am the problem...Maybe your trying to over think the problem go back to the basic's and start again the problem is probably something simple that you are missing. I use a cheap telebee gyro and a BMS 621 on the tail of mine other than lowering the gain on the gyro it been out standing. I only have to plug it in and adjust it to stop the creep with the trim and its off to the races. Think about looking at your TX it seems to be the only thing you didn't change with your friends Raptor?

[hate]

mrmuffinmanvw, you are right, probally i am missing some stupid thing...

but my head is hot, have been trying to figure this out for this whole last week...

i'll disassembly the whole heli right now, and assembly it over again...

but at the meantime any help would be apreciated a LOT!

[cfrank2005]

Hi again..when I spool up the heli, it seems to do a quick start, and this causes the heli to piro for about a 3/4 turn on the ground. Is this normal? I'm using the Hextronik 120A ESC and noticed this esc does not have a slow start option.

[john339]

I noticed the same thing. No slow start.
Just remember what it does and start slowly as you can.
I also have to tighten the main blades because of the fast start.

[john339]

I looked but didn't see trainig gear for the E-smart.
I guess I will make some up from stuff at the local hardware store.
Couple of dowels, 4 tennis balls some rope and baling wire and I should be good to go.

[cfrank2005]

I noticed the same thing. No slow start.
Just remember what it does and start slowly as you can.
I also have to tighten the main blades because of the fast start.
Yeah..John..would have been really nice to be able to spool her up very slowly at first and then speed up, like a real heli. So, how was your maiden flight?